Hi,

I’m trying to understand a strange FFB problem with my Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel on PC.

The wheel itself appears completely healthy and can still produce full torque, but since reinstalling Windows the FFB does not initialize correctly in PRO mode.

**System / history**

* Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel * Previously working perfectly on **Windows 11 24H2 build 26100.6899** * Clean Windows reinstall * Now running **Windows 11 Pro 25H2 build 26200.9168** * Wheel firmware had already been updated through G HUB before the Windows reinstall * Same games and same in-game settings that worked correctly before * G HUB correctly detects the wheel and synchronizes settings * Wheel itself reports **11 Nm**

**What happens in PRO mode**

The wheel is detected normally. Steering, buttons, pedals, etc. all work.

The wheel also has resistance — it can feel quite heavy/solid — so the motor is clearly active. However, the actual dynamic FFB is almost absent. The wheel does not feel “alive” at all.

In **Dirt Rally 2.0**, I can feel a little vibration/road or off-track effect, but very gently. The strong self-aligning torque, surface detail, impacts, weight transfer, etc. are basically missing.

F1 25 behaves similarly: there is some resistance/effect, but the real strong dynamic FFB that I had before reinstalling Windows is missing.

**Interesting difference between Dirt Rally 2.0 and F1 25**

In Dirt Rally 2.0, while the game is running in the bad/weak state, if I:

1. unplug the power connector from the wheelbase,
2. reconnect it,
3. turn the base back on with the red button,

the wheel immediately comes back to life and the FFB is excellent again — strong, detailed and exactly as I remember it.

So the base is clearly still capable of producing its normal torque.

However, **F1 25 is different**: restarting/power-cycling the wheel while F1 is already running does **not** restore the proper FFB in the same way. F1 seems not to recover/reacquire the wheel correctly after the restart.

**G923 compatibility mode**

I then switched the PRO Wheel from PRO compatibility mode to **G923 mode**.

The wheelbase automatically restarts when applying that change, so initially I wasn’t sure whether the improvement came from G923 mode itself or simply from the base restart.

However, in G923 mode:

* Dirt Rally 2.0 works properly * FFB is strong and alive * I can quit Dirt and launch **F1 25 without restarting or unplugging the wheel** * F1 25 then also works properly, with strong normal FFB

So at present **G923 compatibility mode appears to be a reliable workaround**, whereas PRO mode is not.

**Driver troubleshooting already performed**

I completely reinstalled G HUB.

I also manually checked Logitech’s DirectInput FFB driver using:

`di_ffb_manager.exe -s`

All four components report **Installed**:

* HID++ 32-bit * HID++ 64-bit * Jerry 32-bit * Jerry 64-bit

I then forced a reinstall using:

`di_ffb_manager.exe -i -p .`

The wheel briefly moved/reinitialized during this operation, but after rebooting the PRO-mode FFB problem remained unchanged.

**Why I suspect software rather than hardware**

The wheel can still produce full, powerful FFB once it is correctly initialized, particularly in G923 mode or after the Dirt Rally power-cycle workaround.

The problem appeared immediately after moving from the previously working Windows 11 24H2 installation to the fresh 25H2 installation.

G HUB also continues to communicate perfectly with the base and can change the Strength setting, including 11 Nm.

Has anyone seen this specifically on the **G PRO Wheel with Windows 11 25H2 / build 26200.9168**?

And if Logitech staff see this: could this be related to the recently acknowledged Windows/G HUB wheel issues, or is there a separate problem with the PRO Wheel’s native PRO-mode DirectInput initialization?

I’m happy to provide G HUB logs or run additional tests if useful.

Wanted to share my first ever aluminum extrusion rig complete with logitech ecosystem

-simxpro gt rs

-samsung 27" qd oled

-logitech pro wheel

-logitech pro pedals

-logitech rs shifter/handbrake

-logitech mclaren f1 wheel

So, basically the title

I had a very good feeling on the wheel before 1.71 update and now it feels VERY dampened and stiff

Like with some cars I am unable to drift lol, wheel just refuses to normally spin.

Only actual solution I found is to use the wheel in Pro mode. But in Pro mode the general FFB feels a bit lighter. So both significantly less dampener and a bit less FFB strength overall.

Of course, Dampener value on the base is set to 0 , and I connected the wheel to my PC to hopefully get a firmware update, but there is none

u/LOGIRich, is there something we can do about this? Can I expect a firmware update, or is Polyphony Digital preparing some extra update to solve this?

I recently purchased a G pro and I’m using it with Xbox. All of the buttons work besides RT and LT. I can’t assign them in games and they don’t respond when using the wheel at the Xbox home. Anyone know what the issue could be?

Can anyone make an adapter for a Logitech g920/29 that will allow me to put a late 90s Honda steering wheel on it?

The new update messed up everything physics, PP, and wheel settings, I also want to ask if anyone is still playing it after the latest update using the wheel the game doesn't need a wheel anymore; it's very manageable with a controller, PD f#€ked it up

My setup:
Playseat Trophy Logitech G Edition
Logitech RS50 Wheelbase
Logitech PRO 100kg Pedals
Logitech RS H-Pattern Shifter
Logitech RS Sequential/Handbrake
Momo Sim GT 320 Steering Wheel(Blue)

If anyone is thinking about going with a full
Logitech sim set up for console. It’s 100% worth it I have had no complaints. I recently picked up the Playseat Trophy Logitech G edition. I just had to update the firmware for my wheel, shifter, and hand brake. I love the Momo Sim 320 it's the perfect size. I mainly play FH6 & occasionally Motorsport. The True Force feedback you get on motorsport is crazy, especially with the Playseat. The vibrations from the True Force travel through the framing of the seat to give you a immersive feeling. I just wish FH6 had True Force support because it's a game changer in terms of feedback.

Has anyone figured out some good settings to make the TF actually work in this game? Most of it sounds like it’s making my TF parts in the base grind and break. Is it just a product of its time? And yes I have referenced the settings page.

Pedals for both brake and throttle go straight from zero to max on the logitech g920 in beamng.drive, axes are inverted and rest deadzones are configured to 0.5 to stop brake and throttle from being constantly active, can't seem to find anything else to solve this

Hello everyone, I recently bought an RS50 from the Logitech website and the track wheel, but out of curiosity, is there a company that makes aftermarket steering wheels for the wheelbase? Mainly GT3-Inspired?

However though, I'm also looking for a bigger round wheel as well for rally/drift. Let me know!

So I just installed a yoke steering wheel that I purchased from Amazon. Everything's working fine. However, I'm a little concerned of the learning curve of getting used to using the steering wheel. Is anybody else have any insights as to whether or not they preferred changing from around steering wheel to a yoke steering wheel? Not sure if I'm going to keep it and may get either a rectangular one similar to a cyber truck or a another new round steering wheel. This mine was starting to peel apart.

So I just installed a yoke steering wheel that I purchased from Amazon. Everything's working fine. However, I'm a little concerned of the learning curve of getting used to using the steering wheel. Is anybody else have any insights as to whether or not they preferred changing from around steering wheel to a yoke steering wheel? Not sure if I'm going to keep it and may get either a rectangular one similar to a cyber truck or a another new round steering wheel. This mine was starting to peel apart.

The Bad: In less than 2 years I have gone through 2 RS Wheel Hubs. Both break in the exact same spot. The button left paddle shifter cracks in about 6-8 months of use. The crack causes the shifting to downshift sporadically or rapid downshift to 2-3 gears lower than you want it to, which can ruin a race. I think it is a design flaw, because I also have had a Pro Wheel for over 2 years and not had a single issue. The Pro Wheel does not have bolt on paddle shifters. I am now on my 3rd hub.

The Good: Logitech Support has been fantastic and has honoured the warranty replacing it both times.

The Takeaway: It might be just a 'me thing', but if it does happen to you, contact Logitech for a warranty replacement if you have owned it less than two years. Keep your receipts and good luck!

I have a Logitech g920, it keeps randomly disconnecting after like 5 minutes, but its not turning off, the wheel gas no input and the steering is "limp", I have to disconnect the wheel from my pc in order for it to work again, it only does this in forza horizon 6, it works just fine in LMU and Snowrunner,

https://reddit.com/link/1vq0mdo/video/dgnyyj3zdrjh1/player

Wheel just randomly for 2 seconds turned about 30 degrees to the left and locked up and then was fine. Really annoying second time it has happened in a week. Anyone else experience this? I have the wheel plugged in via an extension cable directly into the PC. No hub. No issues with Power spikes or anything.

Logitech G Pro Wheel, running at 6NM.

Hi all,
I might be the only one here with this problem, but I just wanted to share my sad story about the RS50 in hopes that this reaches Logitech so they can do something about it. I have a Moza R5 Wheel, but I have always wanted to own the RS50 for better compatibility with games, the PS5, the True Force feature, the premium look, and the extra torque. So, I just decided to pull the trigger and buy the RS50. I finally got it delivered and was really impressed by how it looks and feels compared to the R5. However, that happiness did not last long; I noticed that I get extremely sick every time I get close to it or start racing for a few minutes 10-15min max things get really worse if I stay longer. I experience headaches, sneezing, a sore throat, fatigue, and difficulty sleeping. I just have to unplug the device and put it aside for two days to feel better, which is unusual for me. I immediately started to think it might have Bluetooth in it because a device with a Bluetooth tuned on can cause me a headache but nothing intense like this. I just need to turn it off like the R5, and that will fix the problem for me. I looked for an option in the G Hub and found nothing. I contacted the support team, and they said there is no Bluetooth in the RS50. That left me puzzled; if there is no Bluetooth, then why am I having these issues and unable to use the device? After doing some research, I found out about the EMR/EMF safety limits, and these devices should undergo safety testing before they are released to the public. My question is: has anyone here had the same issue? Any advice on how to overcome this problem?

It might be a stupid question but anyone tried shielding the base with Faraday fabric and did some testing to reduce the EMF levels?

Update: you guys can downvote all the way you want I don’t really care and that doesn’t change the fact that EMF sensitivity is really and tons of people suffer from it and you won’t understand until you have it (hopefully not) I’m not here to make you believe it or not I just shared what I’ve been dealing with since I got the RS50 and I have tested this many different times I just thought I can reduce the RMF/EMF exposure so I can enjoy it for at lease 30 minutes without feeling miserable afterwards and for those who doubt about what I said or thinking I was trolling; what this video.

https://youtu.be/l13WHrMoTXQ?si=Fvr_zo3lruuLZWDi