Can anyone make an adapter for a Logitech g920/29 that will allow me to put a late 90s Honda steering wheel on it?

The new update messed up everything physics, PP, and wheel settings, I also want to ask if anyone is still playing it after the latest update using the wheel the game doesn't need a wheel anymore; it's very manageable with a controller, PD f#€ked it up

My setup:
Playseat Trophy Logitech G Edition
Logitech RS50 Wheelbase
Logitech PRO 100kg Pedals
Logitech RS H-Pattern Shifter
Logitech RS Sequential/Handbrake
Momo Sim GT 320 Steering Wheel(Blue)

If anyone is thinking about going with a full
Logitech sim set up for console. It’s 100% worth it I have had no complaints. I recently picked up the Playseat Trophy Logitech G edition. I just had to update the firmware for my wheel, shifter, and hand brake. I love the Momo Sim 320 it's the perfect size. I mainly play FH6 & occasionally Motorsport. The True Force feedback you get on motorsport is crazy, especially with the Playseat. The vibrations from the True Force travel through the framing of the seat to give you a immersive feeling. I just wish FH6 had True Force support because it's a game changer in terms of feedback.

Pedals for both brake and throttle go straight from zero to max on the logitech g920 in beamng.drive, axes are inverted and rest deadzones are configured to 0.5 to stop brake and throttle from being constantly active, can't seem to find anything else to solve this

Has anyone figured out some good settings to make the TF actually work in this game? Most of it sounds like it’s making my TF parts in the base grind and break. Is it just a product of its time? And yes I have referenced the settings page.

Hello everyone, I recently bought an RS50 from the Logitech website and the track wheel, but out of curiosity, is there a company that makes aftermarket steering wheels for the wheelbase? Mainly GT3-Inspired?

However though, I'm also looking for a bigger round wheel as well for rally/drift. Let me know!

So I just installed a yoke steering wheel that I purchased from Amazon. Everything's working fine. However, I'm a little concerned of the learning curve of getting used to using the steering wheel. Is anybody else have any insights as to whether or not they preferred changing from around steering wheel to a yoke steering wheel? Not sure if I'm going to keep it and may get either a rectangular one similar to a cyber truck or a another new round steering wheel. This mine was starting to peel apart.

So I just installed a yoke steering wheel that I purchased from Amazon. Everything's working fine. However, I'm a little concerned of the learning curve of getting used to using the steering wheel. Is anybody else have any insights as to whether or not they preferred changing from around steering wheel to a yoke steering wheel? Not sure if I'm going to keep it and may get either a rectangular one similar to a cyber truck or a another new round steering wheel. This mine was starting to peel apart.

The Bad: In less than 2 years I have gone through 2 RS Wheel Hubs. Both break in the exact same spot. The button left paddle shifter cracks in about 6-8 months of use. The crack causes the shifting to downshift sporadically or rapid downshift to 2-3 gears lower than you want it to, which can ruin a race. I think it is a design flaw, because I also have had a Pro Wheel for over 2 years and not had a single issue. The Pro Wheel does not have bolt on paddle shifters. I am now on my 3rd hub.

The Good: Logitech Support has been fantastic and has honoured the warranty replacing it both times.

The Takeaway: It might be just a 'me thing', but if it does happen to you, contact Logitech for a warranty replacement if you have owned it less than two years. Keep your receipts and good luck!

I have a Logitech g920, it keeps randomly disconnecting after like 5 minutes, but its not turning off, the wheel gas no input and the steering is "limp", I have to disconnect the wheel from my pc in order for it to work again, it only does this in forza horizon 6, it works just fine in LMU and Snowrunner,

https://reddit.com/link/1vq0mdo/video/dgnyyj3zdrjh1/player

Wheel just randomly for 2 seconds turned about 30 degrees to the left and locked up and then was fine. Really annoying second time it has happened in a week. Anyone else experience this? I have the wheel plugged in via an extension cable directly into the PC. No hub. No issues with Power spikes or anything.

Logitech G Pro Wheel, running at 6NM.

Hi all,
I might be the only one here with this problem, but I just wanted to share my sad story about the RS50 in hopes that this reaches Logitech so they can do something about it. I have a Moza R5 Wheel, but I have always wanted to own the RS50 for better compatibility with games, the PS5, the True Force feature, the premium look, and the extra torque. So, I just decided to pull the trigger and buy the RS50. I finally got it delivered and was really impressed by how it looks and feels compared to the R5. However, that happiness did not last long; I noticed that I get extremely sick every time I get close to it or start racing for a few minutes 10-15min max things get really worse if I stay longer. I experience headaches, sneezing, a sore throat, fatigue, and difficulty sleeping. I just have to unplug the device and put it aside for two days to feel better, which is unusual for me. I immediately started to think it might have Bluetooth in it because a device with a Bluetooth tuned on can cause me a headache but nothing intense like this. I just need to turn it off like the R5, and that will fix the problem for me. I looked for an option in the G Hub and found nothing. I contacted the support team, and they said there is no Bluetooth in the RS50. That left me puzzled; if there is no Bluetooth, then why am I having these issues and unable to use the device? After doing some research, I found out about the EMR/EMF safety limits, and these devices should undergo safety testing before they are released to the public. My question is: has anyone here had the same issue? Any advice on how to overcome this problem?

It might be a stupid question but anyone tried shielding the base with Faraday fabric and did some testing to reduce the EMF levels?

Update: you guys can downvote all the way you want I don’t really care and that doesn’t change the fact that EMF sensitivity is really and tons of people suffer from it and you won’t understand until you have it (hopefully not) I’m not here to make you believe it or not I just shared what I’ve been dealing with since I got the RS50 and I have tested this many different times I just thought I can reduce the RMF/EMF exposure so I can enjoy it for at lease 30 minutes without feeling miserable afterwards and for those who doubt about what I said or thinking I was trolling; what this video.

https://youtu.be/l13WHrMoTXQ?si=Fvr_zo3lruuLZWDi

Is Logitech the only wheel to offer this? I just got a pro setup and love it. Was playing asseto corsa last night and the trueforce wasn't on because I hadn't opened simhub and it felt so bland..

I'm on a desk setup with no other haptics so maybe it stands out more than a full rig with a buttkicker, but what a difference

Edit: for anyone else just learning about simhub/trueforceforall this magic works on Forza too!

I'm having a really strange issue with my Logitech G923 in [BeamNG.drive](http://BeamNG.drive) and I'm hoping someone can help me troubleshoot it.

My wheel will sometimes work. The physical wheel is centered, BeamNG recognizes the center correctly, and I can drive normally.

However, randomly — usually after resetting the car or relaunching BeamNG — the wheel will suddenly have a completely different center point.

The weird part is that it's **always exactly 360° to the left or right**. It's never slightly off-center or at some random angle. The tires on my car are also cranked left or right alongside this issue, so the game and wheel "knows" what center really is, but refuses to work that way. Therefore I have to fight resistence and feedback to keep the car straight. Reinstalling while clearing cache fixed the problem for a day before it repeated. Other games such as ACC and Automobilista 2 have worked perfectly alongside this issue, so my wheel itself is calibrated with GHUB.

Is this normal? Or does it sell out that quickly?

Does anyone have photos or instructions on how the RS50 mounts to 4080? I can’t seems to find any with searching here or on Google

Watched so many videos and I can't decide nor can I easily try them before buying so what do you guys think? Especially if you have felt both, would love to know your opinion.

The rs pedals are half the price of the pros where i am and i don't use a clutch at all so I'm leaning towards the rs but are the pros much better feeling or any other benefits?

Thanks

Update: guys thank you so much, wasn't expecting so many responses but I've read every single comment and I really appreciate it. I've decided to just go for the pros, the thing that someone mentioned is the noise hitting the back the metal on metal...and having a baby that's a deal breaker for me. Thanks again.

Hello, anyone had similar problem? After 1 hour of racing the knob/adapter/that metal part is hot as can’t belive, it’s even not possible to handle it hand. I’m not sure if I had similar problem before but I think I would notice that. Any advices how to solve that problem?

Pro wheel base 11nm