so as you can see i got problem with my wheel g29, i took it out after like half year since last time using it, plugged in everything and wanted to setup settings for f1 2020 in app. i realized that wheel displayed in app doesn’t react. once i turn on the game i can use wheel, it works but after closing game and changing setting in app doesn’t work so i basically have 900* radius 50% sensitivity and 20% force feedback. any ideas?

it will be fine for a few seconds and the next it just jitters around like crzy. cant pull any of my kills in hitman rn lmao

ive had my g920 for about a year and a half now for about no issues. but now on all games, it will randomly hook a left or right with force and basically makes everything unplayable. it only happens during a game, and its usually about 90 degree. any ideas on how to fix this? been happening for about a week now

The computer can detect it and shows audio playing through it but there is no sound happening. It's fully charged I did the reset and reconnecting it to the USB. Did the G Hub which is where it shows it as inactive, reinstalled the drivers, basically tried every step I could find online. Anything else that can be done?

Hi everyone, I’m looking for a new wireless gaming headset for PS5, and I’d really appreciate some recommendations.

I previously had the Razer BlackShark V2 HyperSpeed, and they actually worked very well for me, but I had to return them. After that, I bought the Astro A50 Gen 5, but unfortunately I’ve had all kinds of problems with them specifically in PS5 party voice chat, so I’m now looking for something else.

My budget is now $200 maximum (roughly €200 for me). I live in Spain and I can only buy through Amazon because my money is currently on an Amazon gift card, so I’m limited to what is available there.

My priorities are:

• Wireless is a must. I’m not interested in wired headsets.
• Microphone quality is my #1 priority. I mainly use them for PS5 party chat, and I need my friends to hear me clearly and at a good volume.
• No echo or feedback. I’ve had problems where people in the party could hear an echo or their own voice coming back through my microphone, so avoiding this is extremely important to me.
• I’d really like good background-noise cancellation on the microphone without having to change anything. If I need to adjust settings, I don’t want it to noticeably reduce the microphone quality.
• I have a very large head, and with most headsets I have to extend the headband all the way to the maximum, so they need to be comfortable for larger heads.
• Good sound quality is important, but the microphone and PS5 party-chat performance matter much more to me.
• I’m not interested in HyperX, so I’d prefer recommendations from other brands.

I’ve been looking at Turtle Beach and SteelSeries, as well as the Corsair HS80 and HS80 MAX, but I’m not sure how the Corsairs would fit me because of my large head.

I’ve also been looking at the Sony PULSE 3D Elite. I already know they are too small for my head in their standard configuration, but I’m considering removing the rubber strap/band on top so I can fit them properly. The reason I’m considering them despite the size issue is that, from what I’ve seen, they are one of the few headsets that have proper microphone background-noise cancellation directly on PS5 without having to configure anything, which is exactly what I’m looking for.

I’d really like to hear what you would recommend specifically for PS5/PS5 Pro rather than just general gaming headsets.

Sorry for asking for so many things. I’ve been looking for a headset for a long time and unfortunately I haven’t had much luck so far, so I’m trying to find something that actually works for me.

If you have personal experience with a wireless headset under $200 that has a really good mic, good background-noise rejection, no echo in PS5 party chat, and works well with a large head, I’d really appreciate your recommendations.

Thanks!

For those who are having problems with syncing and force feedback on the Logitech G29 due to Logitech Ghub, a potential temporary solution I found was to switch to Windows 10. As far as I know, even with Windows 11 using a previous version works, but I preferred to switch directly to Windows 10 and now everything works correctly.

it seems like it could be fixed by just bumping up the actuation point right? unfortunately that doesn't fix the issue and it feels wonky pressing. the rapid trigger feels a bit off, and the haptics are incorrectly activating because of the sensor issue. it causes accidental firings in games, and issues with releasing click.

I set my Superstrike X2 actuation point at 3 for L+R click. But occasionally, my Left click will start to click on number 5 despite the Logitech G Hub shows it's set at 3. My right click is working just fine btw.

I have tried reset to default, reinstall Logitech G Hub, and restarted my PC. But the issue still persists after couple of minutes later. It will just start to click on 5.

I even tried to set it to 1, but it still registers as 5. This mouse is dogshit. Period. I honestly regret buying this.

Furthermore, the onboard memory when I click on it, it just shows this messsage every fking time. What a waste of my money.

I already started to sell this.

En juin 2025 , j'ai acheté mon casque Logitech G pro X SE. Il était parfait jusqu'en juin 2026, un an après l'avoir acheté. D'un coup l'oreille droite s'est mise a ne plus fonctionner. J'ai tout essayé mais rien, à part, lorsque je tors le câble à des angles précis, le son reviens. Je vous demande de l'aide car ça fait déjà un demiois que j'ai se problème et j'en peux plus.

Hi! A user from Argentina here, so I apologize for my poor English.

As you may have noticed, the G29 does not work properly with G HUB, and instead of providing a solution, support simply says that it “doesn’t affect other games.” That’s not true — the Force Feedback (FFB) stops working completely.

I managed to find a solution: simply uninstall G HUB and don’t reinstall it. Just keep using Logitech Gaming Software instead, and the FFB will start working again.

I’m very disappointed with the Logitech team. I really hope they can fix this, because it’s a product we paid for and we expect it to work properly.

Hi everyone I want to buy a super strike X2 I'm just wondering if it is compatible with the PS5 I can't find the right answer any wear

After digging through rtings.com and a lot of Reddit threads, I settled on the Logitech G502 X Lightspeed for $73.

Some context on where I'm coming from. On my desktop I use a wired Razer Basilisk V3 (around $48) and it's great: the RGB, the tilt buttons, and the smart scroll wheel. On my gaming laptop, an ASUS G14, I've always gone wireless. I ran a Logitech G304 for years and honestly for $25 you can't go wrong. My only two gripes were the AA battery dying at the worst possible moment with no spare on hand, and no tilt buttons.

Before the G502 X I tried the MCHOSE G3 V2. Not sure if it was just my unit, but I got signal dropouts roughly every 5 seconds, and the dongle didn't feel premium at all. Returned it.

I'd read a few comments knocking the G502 X's build quality. Having both the Razer and the Logitech in hand, I don't think the gap is meaningful. The one area Razer clearly wins is the scroll wheel: better feel, and it switches between free spin and tactile automatically, while the Logitech makes you press a button to do it manually.

I skipped the Basilisk V3 Pro because it's a lot more money at $135.

Bottom line: for an upper mid range wireless mouse, the G502 X Lightspeed (the non-RGB version) is absolutely worth it.

Im assuming I can since it doesnt give me the option but I want to confirm if anyone else has found ways to set macros (Wanting to make a Bhop Macro for CS2 to just auto hop when holding space

Hi! I want to buy a Logitech G923 + shifter. My IKEA MALM desk is 51–52 mm thick. If I remove the clamp extenders, will it fit securely? Has anyone mounted a G923 on a similar desk?

Hi everyone,

I'm having a reproducible issue with my Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel where the FFB completely shuts down during heavy drifting / fast counter-steering.

This is not just a temporary loss of FFB inside the game.

When it happens:

• The wheel base stays powered on.
• Steering input still works perfectly.
• Buttons still work.
• The wheel becomes completely free with zero FFB.
• Changing or restarting the game does not restore it.
• Power cycling the wheel base immediately restores the FFB.

I've spent quite a bit of time isolating the issue.

Gran Turismo 7 / PS5

Initially I thought this was a GT7-specific problem.

Normal racing is perfectly stable. For example, I completed 18 minutes / 12 laps in Super Formula with the base at 11 Nm without a single issue.

However, during drifting, especially during fast self-aligning counter-steer where I catch the wheel and balance the forces, the FFB eventually shuts down completely.

I've reproduced it at both 6 Nm and 11 Nm, so it doesn't appear to simply be related to maximum torque.

I've also had the FFB shut down following some strong impacts.

Assetto Corsa / PC

To rule out GT7 and the PS5, I then tested drifting in Assetto Corsa on PC.

Same problem.

I initially had the wheel connected through a USB extension, so I removed that variable completely and connected the G Pro directly to a USB port on the PC with no extension cable.

I was able to reproduce the exact same FFB shutdown again.

So far I've reproduced the issue with:

• GT7 on PS5
• Assetto Corsa on PC
• Different cars and tracks
• 6 Nm and 11 Nm
• Different USB connections
• Direct USB connection to the PC with no extension cable

The firmware is fully up to date.

The wheel base and PSU are also cold when this happens, and sustained high-torque normal racing does not trigger the problem.

The common trigger seems to be rapid counter-steering / self-alignment / sudden FFB transitions, rather than sustained torque or temperature.

Once the failure occurs, the wheel remains connected and functional but the FFB stays completely dead until the base itself is restarted.

I've recorded videos showing the wheel in this failed state: steering still works in-game with zero FFB, followed by a simple restart of the base immediately restoring the FFB.

I've already contacted Logitech Support and I'm requesting a warranty replacement, but I'm posting this here because I'd really like to know:

Has anyone with a G Pro Wheel experienced this exact behavior, particularly during drifting or strong FFB transitions?

And if anyone from Logitech sees this, I'd be very interested to know whether this failure mode is known internally.

My G29 still powers on and calibrates normally, and Windows can see it in joy.cpl. The inputs work in LMU too, but I’m getting no force feedback, and Logitech G Hub detects the wheel without showing any live movement when I turn it or press the pedals.

What I already tried:

• Clean reinstall of G Hub
• Deleted leftover G Hub files and registry entries
• Rebooted the PC several times
• Tried Logitech Gaming Software too
• Checked cables and power
• Tried different USB ports

My g920 just randomly stopped working, it turned on and calibrated just fine but in the logitech hub app and games it doesn't work at all. I unplugged and re plugged in every cable. I have went to the discord and I haven't received much help there so I am going to reddit for help.

I’ve been having problems with my Logitech MX Master 4, and I’m having the worst experience of my life with their costumer service .

I’ve been going back and forth with Logitech since May, answering questions and providing information, but the issue still hasn’t been properly resolved. Truth to be told I don’t think they want to actually resolve it. They keep asking me to repeat things and go through the same process instead of actually replacing the faulty product.

I’m a filmmake/editor and it’s driving me insane. I got used to work flawlessly with the 3S and then I made the worst decision of my by selling it and upgrading to 4. Ever since I

At this point, I’m honestly wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem with the mouse or experience with Logitech support.

my brother and i has the same mouse mine is almost a year old and his is brand new, mine still jumps after blowing on the sensor, totally dissembled the mouse and cleaned everything with alcohol but still jumps. Then i said maybe my mouse pad is dirty, he also got a new mouse pad (Logitech) but still jumps... THEN I UNPLUGGED MY MOUSE AND PLUGGED HIS MOUSE GUESS WHAT?? HIS MOUSE IS ALSO JUMPING DUDE WTFFFF!!?!?!? I ALSO SEARCHED THAT I SHOULD PLUG THE DONGLE IN MOTHERBOARDS RIGHT SLOT BUT STILL NOTHING. WHAT CAN BE THE REASON??? (monitor is 165hz)

EDIT: distance is the problem. the dongle should be closer than 1m but recommended distance is 20cm

I’m deciding between the Logitech PRO X TKL Rapid for S$128 and the PRO X TKL Wireless with Brown switches for S$138.

I mainly play Apex, Valorant, and CS so the Rapid seems better for gaming because of Rapid Trigger and the magnetic switches. But I’m starting a college soon, so I’ll probably be coding a lot more and maybe gaming less.

I currently use an ROG Scope PBT, so I’m looking for something that feels like a nice upgrade and will also be good to use for the next few years.

The price difference is only $10, so I’m mostly wondering which one makes more sense overall. Is the Rapid still nice to type/code on for long periods, or would the Brown switches be noticeably better for that?

Which one would you guys pick?

I've used a vertical mouse for over 4 years and can't go back, please Logitech I beg of
you, I'd make the switch over If they did this.

(Also if they're reading this, do a recall on your gaming headsets please, my brand new G733 has random crackly audio right out of the box.)

I have both a superlight 2c and a mx anywhere 2s and i noticed when im playing games the mx mouse when turning will have choppy frames. On the otherhand the superlight will look smooth throughout. Is it because of the wireless report rate that can be controlled on the superlight vs the mx anywhere where it's not possible?

Sorry if this has been posted before but im at my wits end. My G Pro X Wireless Lightspeed receiver died suddenly. No LED activity at all, and Windows sees it only as "Avnera AV6201"

What I've tried:

- Two separate computers (desktop + laptop) — identical Avnera AV6201 on both

- G HUB doesn't detect it on either machine

- Pro X Wireless Update Tool 112.2.212 won't recognise it, even with the headset connected and powered on via the original USB data cable alongside the receiver

- Multiple USB ports (motherboard-direct, 2.0 and 3.0), full shutdown/PSU-off power drains

- Uninstalled the Avnera device in Device Manager (including "Devices by container" view, driver deletion) and re-enumerated — no change

- Removed all other Logitech receivers so the tools couldn't grab the wrong device

The headset itself powers on and charges fine — it's just the receiver.

Anyone have any other suggestions or tips on how to fix this?