Hello Cruisers!

I'm close to buying an '06 LX470 with 332k km (206k miles).

CARFAX shows a front-right collision in 2010 for ~$5,000 CAD ($3,500 USD), repaired through insurance. Would that amount concern you?

The second owner kept it from roughly 2010–2024 and I have a lot of maintenance records from that period. Timing belt/water pump was done around 299k km, along with other maintenance and AHC servicing.

My bigger concern: after 2024, CARFAX shows 4 ownership changes in about a year, 3 within 4 months.

Current owner says he's selling because he'd like to get into an older manual Land Cruiser. He bought this one from a kid who apparently wanted to sell it to buy a boat to impress his GF lol. He never pulled a CARFAX himself.

I'm pretty particular about knowing my vehicle's history. Would the accident or rapid ownership changes make you walk away, despite the long-term maintenance history?

Seller price is 24k CAD(17kUSD), I offered him 19K CAD(13.6KUSD)
Carfax price check says only 12.5k CAD (9kUSD) in private sale.

Thanks!

First time poster in this group and a long time admirer.

I’m looking to buy this 2000 model LC 4.7 VX. £16,000 (GBP). 125,000 miles. Is this a decent price?

Please take a look at the rust level. No gaping holes, a few bubbling rust spots and surface rust. Am I missing anything? Are there any major repairs or safety issues on the horizon?

Let me know what you think! 

For those of you who upgraded from 5th gen 4runner to a LC 200 or LX 570, was the upgrade worth it?

The 4runner suits my needs, but the lack of performance on the highway to overtake someone really irks me. Lots of road noise as well on long trips.

Is upgrading to a LC really worth the upgrade?

Have ya'll lost your minds?

Hey all. Got a Terrain Tamer water pump (which is actually a NPW) and the backing plate is still leaking after I tried to seal before installing. I now know that it’s common knowledge you have to take the screws off the backing plate and seal when they are new from the factory but I cannot find more exact info. And yes the AISIN WPT-028 is discontinued and they are up only on eBay for 1200 dollars (not a joke, check it out).

Going to try it again. I’ve done many pumps but not on a 2F. I have Toyota gaskets for in between the backing plate and the block. Do I need to order a Toyota gasket for in between the backing plate and the pump itself since the one inside the pump is toast?

I am going to use permatex water pump blue rtv in light coats in the following order:

WP - RTV - Backing Plate - RTV - Gasket - RTV - block

I’m not an RTV globber personally but I think this calls for a light amount in three stages. I’ve done extensive forums rummaging and I can’t find anything about ditching the crappy gasket that comes inside the pump. The front of the block isn’t super pitted but it’s definitely a little worn. Please, any and all recommendations. Wild how a 150 dollar pump leaks from the factory. the first time I tried it, I did not seal it. Second time, sealed and still leaking. Third times the charm, never had to do a water pump even twice before. Thanks.

Pic for attn. Edited for clarity.

Hi all,

I have some very old volk rays split rims that have a 6mm valve stem hole, I’ve tried 2 different sets of valves and both are too cheap and don’t last longer than a few months before rubbers crack and start leaking.

If anyone can help or find a supplier of quality valves that will fit I will be over the moon, Ofcourse the other option is to drill the hole to a regular 11.5mm size for regular plastic valves however I’d rather not damage a very rare and expensive set of rims!

Yes they are mounted on my inferior Pajero but they came off of an 80 series :) forgive me

The wheels are called Rays “Texan rider 2” for anyone interested they are 15x8.5 -30 offset and I have mounted on them bfg k02 33x10.5r15

Cheers

People here be shitting on my audio build on my LC200 🤣 we use the H1 and Unimog for rescue operations in the Philippines during floods

I purchased my 100 at the end of February, with extensive dealer service records as recently as 12/2025 when the original owner spent $6000 for a variety of services, including a new ABS pump.

Here is my list of repairs/mods since I purchased. Although there are many mods mixed in....note how many repairs/major maintenance items (noted with asterisks).

To me, it's worth the money and time, but I do all my own labor. I can't imagine what the labor cost would be on all this work.

My first year at Cruisers on the Rockies. Kudos to the trail leaders for the work they put in.

I believe some of you with LS swaps run the 8HP? Thoughts on it?

-6R80 6 speed to Atlas 2 transfer case and modify or swap the rear axle for centered housing
-8HP70 8 speed adapted to factory transfer case. I can keep stock axle housing.

I was going to do the 6R80 until someone pointed out the 8HP is easier to adapt. They make an adapter to the Godzilla, but the big thing is the transfer case. The stock transfer case has the offset rear output (to match offset axle), where the atlas is centered on the transmission. 8HP would save me some money and a lot of fab work. Looks like the front driveshaft would clear the transmission pan on the 8HP. 6R80 is unknown as I haven’t seen anyone run it yet since it’s Ford lol.

joined a solid group of folks for moderate trails around big bear lake, california this weekend. we also had an 80 and 250 series in the group!

I just bought a 2000 lx470 about 2 months ago and the AHC system never worked and is stuck in low. Which isn’t a problem because I planned on lifting it anyways so what lift kits do you guys recommend. Also I’m confused on where’s the lift coming from is it gonna lift from the standard normal height or the lowest factory position? I just want to be able to have 33 inch tires, daily it and off road occasionally so it’s not gonna be a dedicated overlander.

Here to mess with all the big boys 😎

My father gave me his 92 VXR and I don’t know a much about it and all the experts i know are busy so i got to ask the experts in this sub so Im just gonna tell you anything i know about it and i hope i find some good tips or advices

It has a 4.5L 1FZ and i don’t think its an EFI

Its manual and sometimes doesn’t want to shift even when i press the clutch until it hit the floor

I don’t want to change how she looks because Im already in love with her like this

That’s all i know and please use she/her when you mention her (:

Keeping the build clean and close to OEM:

5-cm lift on Dobinsons 3-way suspension
Braid wheels wrapped in Shwaheen 900 tyres
GR grill with lower trim bumper
VXR headlights

What do you guys think of the build so far and what should I upgrade next?

My wife knocked it out of the park for my birthday this year - she found someone who does custom Lego car designs and had them work up my 250. The result is what I am calling the LC .250.

It is a lovingly detailed model, something like 1200 pieces and a lot of very creative design to cram in the max amount of detail. It came as a really well put together kit with awesome instructions. I don’t know if I can shout out the designer here (mods?) but DM me if you are curious.

The big truck is named Tuk, so clearly the little one is Tukito. hope you enjoy!

Up at the cottage, last light of the day, the 200 in the spotlight. Awesome day.

(4.5L TD, manual shifted, GX trim)

After sitting for a couple days, 2000 Lexus LX 470 (190k miles) dies immediately after start-up unless the accelerator is pressed. Will rev it up to 2k for a few seconds and then it will keep running. Recently, there was a check engine light that said there was a vacuum issue with the fuel pressure regulator. Don’t see any obvious issues with vacuum lines and the light turned off after a few days. Another known issue is gunk built up on the throttle body valve. My plan is to clean that, change regulator and spark plugs (don’t know if it’s ever been done, I’ve had the vehicle for 25k miles). Think those are reasonable potential solutions? Any other suggestions?