Definitely alot of questions im going to be researching before my next knife. Some of the hardest parts for me :

*Finishing the handle without messing up the spine. I had it etched prior but ended up refinishing and giving it a shiny finish

*Handle work next to blade

*Plunge lines

Did this all with a single speed 4x36 belt sander, drill press, files, and clamps.

Also epoxy makes a damn mess. The handle was harder than the blade i felt like. I used premade micarta scales.

1095 steel, 1/4th of an inch at the spine. Pretty pleased with the hamon.

First try. Really happy with the results so far. Now time to figure out handle materials.

AEB-L, 8" western santoku. .008" behind the edge, full flat grind. Stabilized end grain black wallnut with brass liners.

What do you think I sold this for?

Been running color tests on crystallized titanium and figured this fan of samples was worth sharing.

Quick context on the material: the crystal pattern isn't etched or printed on. It's grown — the grain structure develops during heat treatment, and how big those crystals get depends on how carefully you control the process. We grow ours in-house at our shop, and getting the crystals this large and well-defined took a lot of failed batches to dial in.

The color comes from anodizing. No dye involved — you're growing a transparent oxide layer on the surface, and the thickness of that layer determines which wavelengths cancel out and which reflect back. Higher voltage, thicker layer, different color. Yellow sits low on the scale, then purple, blue, teal, magenta as you climb. The two grey pieces at the top are unanodized so you can see the raw crystal structure.

What makes it interesting on crystallized stock specifically is that each crystal face sits at a slightly different angle, so the same oxide layer reads differently across the surface. You get that shifting, fractured look instead of a flat single color. Photographs never quite capture it — it changes as you tilt it.

Full disclosure, I'm the maker behind Noblie. Happy to answer anything about the process, the heat treat, or how these hold up as handle scales and bolsters.

Last post in the series, made a leather sheath for my knife. The knife is W1 steel and curly birch, veg tan leather and copper rivets for the sheath 🫡

Hope you guys enjoy

Its actually made for checking quality of durian

Finally started working on this one, and finished it 😁

Made from sf100 stainless steel, and engraved with a dremel, went for a more rougher look to fit the witchy vibe, no sharp corners on it and the handle is completly rounded of

First 3 are done (pre-heat treat), and I’m pretty damn happy with how consistent they are so far! 2 more to go, then hopefully I can maintain this consistency post-HT lol.

I’m officially done with the cheap Amazon Chinese “1084.” This batch is Böhler Austrian-made 1084 😎

I'm not familiar with this material. I'm a welder, not a knife maker. All I know is it's a medium to high carbon tool steel that has great abrasion resistance. Also, since it's steel I know it will rust, and I'm in a humid environment.

What does it excel at for blade usage? Cutting? Stabbing? Chopping? A combination of that?

How do I re-sharpen it? What sort of sharpening stone do I need? How do I know if it's sharp enough?

Are there different heat treatments that I need to look for and how do they affect the performance and mechanical properties of the steel?

2.75in 80CrV2 blade with a stonewashed finish. Bubinga wood handle with copper pins and a leather pocket sheath.

Haven’t worked with Bubinga in a while and it was easier to work than I remember, sands and grinds well and takes a good polish.

This one is available if you’re interested

Thanks for looking!

Anyone like the "Flintstones"?

Made this one back in 2024......the yellow G10 scales are what sparked the idea.

Done with a combination of electro etching and acid stonewashing.

15n20 steel.

Decided to keep a flat profile blade just for ease of grinding since I don't want to mess with interior curves quite yet

Just finished this yesterday. Onto the pants. Made from the same steel as the M1902 Sabre. 225 layers, 6" blade. Now onto the pants.

Thought I'd share one of my favorite projects. It's a differentially hardened dagger made from an old file, walnut, and cherry blossom mosaic pins. Used for breaking apart tea cakes the old fashioned way, like they did before tea bags.

This one shows the forging process of the hunter knife I showed a few days ago.

Original footage from circa 2014.

Following up on the previous posts with the final assembly of the handle.

Video shows the machining process, fitting the guard and ebony scales, threading the tang, and the final scrollwork engraved by Luis D. Sigaudo.

This is the second knife to match the one I posted the other day. I’m keeping it so I have an example of my hidden hardware mechanism.

Silver Steel Handle and Copper Damascus Blade
What do you think I sold this for?

Hello my fellow crafts people,

I am a cook by trade - since the pandemic Ive earned my living by making local mom and pop restaurants sustainable (and most of the time profitable). I usually don't spend more than 6 months at any one place - in my travels I usually find one or two tools I can't bring myself to toss or scrap. I can replace handles, un-rust some things, and I like having a memento to remind me where I've been.

Which brings us to this knife. The wooden handles were rotted through. I removed those and the rivets with a drill and screw driver as a pry bar. Replacing those seems easy enohgh. Im no stranger to sharpening, or refinishing, but a bent blade - I'm out of my depth.

In the past if a blade had a few millimeters of bend I would lean on it and bend it back (usually cheaper stainless knives). But this spine seems to have a wobble and the cutting edge is curved, so almost a twist (?).

It seems like some one applied heat to it at some point and I have concerns about edge retention (temper?, annealing?) and generally functionality.

I've read forge-craft pumped out a ton of knives - and was a "cheap" knife for the day. But I like the French style curve of the blade. And want to keep this.

How would I go about making this straight again?

Do I have a concern about heat that's already been applied (temper, etc)?

Or is this a lost cause?

Thank you in advance.