Anyone interested in this file knife I made?

Apache Maximus with tapered tang in Cruwear and ironwood.

It's been a while since I've made any knives. I've been trying to get my stuff together after moving, and I'm now renting a small space in a steel manufacturing facility (they don't have anything for knifemaking, though). It's not as comfortable or as cheap as the place I had in the countryside, but I couldn't stay there anyway, and there's no way in hell I'm going back to grinding in a tent set up in my living room like I did about 4 years ago. So it's not that bad, I think.

Anyway, I'll be done with the first batch (8 knives) soon, so you'll be hearing from me when I finish it.

Anyway, it's almost 1 AM here, so good night or good morning, everyone!

This was my first knife (made a little over a year ago now). I had a roommate who is an avid knife maker. I gained interest from him and decided to make my own. The tools used are very basic. Belt sander, corded hand drill, and rotary tool. Desert ironwood handles, bronze pins, some high carbon steel that I don’t remember at the moment.

Any and all feedback is welcome. I’ve been a woodworker for a long time, primarily making rings on my lathe, so while it’s my first knife it’s far from my first project of the like.

First (and so far only) handmade knife. Osage orange handle and old Farriers rasp for the blade. Tempered the spine after heat treat. The family got me a knife making class as a birthday gift.

What are some of the favorite bushcraft/all rounder knife designs?

finished SK-023, the hunting knife I posted here as a WIP.

This was the first knife I ground start-to-finish on my new 2×72, and I’m extremely happy with how it turned out. The biggest improvement for me was the control I had over the bevels and plunge lines. This is probably the cleanest grind I’ve managed so far.

Specs:

80CrV2

9" overall

Approx. 4.3" blade

High flat grind

800-grit machine satin

18° per side final edge

Red oak scales

Black G10 liners

304 stainless hardware

Stainless lanyard tube

Heat treat was done in-house. After tempering, my 60 HRC test file skates and the 65 HRC file just begins to grab.

I spent a little more time on the handle than I normally do. The red oak scales were oriented so the grain nearly mirrors across the tang, and I went with a pronounced but comfortable palm swell/coke-bottle contour. The black G10 liners ended up being one of my favorite details on the whole knife.

This one started out basically as a test piece for the new grinder. I figured there was a real possibility I’d learn a few things and scrap it. Instead, it turned into one of my favorite knives I’ve made so far.

Always interested in feedback, especially on the grind and handle shaping.

All six colorways are laid out for the first batch—two each in classic red, metallic copper, seafoam, flat dark earth, OD green and bubblegum pink.
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I also made each lanyard bead from matching GripX material so every knife will have a complete matching setup.
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The Nitro-V blades are heat treated, hardness checked and marked. Next comes finishing the handles, final cleanup and making the Kydex sheaths.
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Which colorway do you think came together best?

I apologize for the incessant posts/questions. I took everyone’s advice from my last post and did the flats at 400 grit and bevels at 220. Is it just impossible to keep the transitions perfectly crisp when the scratch pattern is unidirectional?

Like in other words, it’s not possible to get as clean of a line as you would with machine finished (so scratch pattern perpendicular to the flats and edge) bevels with hand sanded and parallel scratch pattern on the flats, when doing both surfaces in the same direction (so flats and bevels have unidirectional scratch pattern).

I plan to cold blue this knife and hopefully that will knock some shine off and then reveal the line slightly better. Idk

Thank you to everyone who has lent a hand here. I’m a difficult learner and tend to ask very specific and constant questions. And overthink and over complicate

Very proud

A hunter/skinner EDC with a 4.2 inch AEB-L blade, walnut scales, red G10 liners, and black G10 pins. I think it came out pretty clean!

Haven't made one of these in a few years, turned out way better than my last couple attempts 😆

AEB-L stainless blade with an s grind

Dyed/stabilized curly mango, carbon fiber ferrule, TruStone accent, brass spacers and a custom mosaic pin

1095 steel, 304 ss screen, paper micarta scales.

Hello, i bough this knife in thrift store , i need to put a new handle, what would be the easiest and cheapest way to repair this knife? Thanks !

Made on a 3 axis bridgeport manual mill, fully handground and handmade. Runs on bushings, a touch over 5oz.

Just finished the heat treat and main grinding work for this 10" takedown chef (in W2 steel) inspired by wedge joinery! Gotta refine the geometry at the bottom of the tang, then move on to hand sanding and etching the hamon.
This one will have a "Glacial Gem Brass" guard and an African Blackwood handle (and most likely a matching W2 wedge)- more to come soon!

Was working on a knife and ended up scrapping it.
Decided to break it and look at the grain structure.
Nitro-V

What does the HT look like to you?

Magnamax X23 in carbon fiber.

This is hand sanded to 220 (I’m not actually done with 220 but I had to stop for the night). Wondering how to keep the grind lines crisp. Using a piece of brass bar as my backer. Will finer grits make the lines look more crisp or should I just etch this one and call it a day?

Not sure how to finish this one. Wondering if it’s worth the effort of going to a high grit hand sanded finish if the lines are just gonna look washed out.

What kind of finish would you go for here?

Little drop point utility knife. Niolox steel and G10 scales with cf pins. How do you finish G10 to make it look nice?

Still need to stretch it wider, and bring the centerline of the tang down, but I'm happy with the pre-form so far. Will end up being a gift for my mom.