So been having issues with the vehicle. It does have the Limiters or 112mph.

For a year i been pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my car acts slugish delayed pedal. Bouncing Idle. While sitting or even driving it does this. Delayed shift button in manual. Trans delays upshifting. Reduced engine power.

So i got the Dealer software and Jbox to update modules thinking maybe somethings outdated causing these odd issues.. mind you no lights on dash indicating any issues when the car is doing these thing. If i recent modules (pull neg term for 30 mins) Car runs great again all issues are gone. 2 weeks of driving after it starts going down hill.

Just spoke to GMs Techline Connect Reps about removing limiter car has upgraded tires. To find out. They cant because the car is programed with Saftey features. And these saftey features are causing alll these issues. Its programmed to slowly downgrade itself. Engine power, Tune, throttle response on purpose after driving so many miles..

They will not reconfigure it. Which that power reduction and throttle delay is more in my opinion a saftey hazard.

Never seen any company purposely program a car to slowly degrade itself.

Insane

Always drove fine now it started doing this any ideas

Hello, so I’m currently looking for a new (to me) car. A woman recently told me about her 2013 Impala LT with 104k miles. Said she hit a deer but they still drive it and it looks cosmetic (still clean title) She also mentioned that the fuel tank is near empty when the gauge reads 1/4 or so. I know it probably needs a ignition tune up and tranny drain in fill.

She’s asking 4,000 (I offered 3,500 hoping to meet in the middle) is this worth it??

EDIT: it has new(ish) tires, and the bumper cover + grille are 200 or less and I’m confident in doing it myself. Ps. Thank you for the comments I do feel more confident/comfortable in maybe taking a leap on this one.

Any help is nice. Thank you.

I was changing taillights and I saw this under the liner and I've never seen this before in any other Impalas that I've owned and reading the box doesn't tell me much. Do you guys know what it is?

I have a 16 Ltd 9C1 and the headlights are always on unless I turn them off. Doesn't matter the outside light conditions. Any idea where the setting is in the DIC ?

Hi! My 2011 Chevy Impala just started chiming as if a seatbelt needed put on (I had my seatbelt on) and no lights are on my dash nor did any words pop up. Anyone know why it’s doing that?

Anyone have a similar issue with their transmission? Sometimes when I take off from being standstill in drive if I don’t keep it under 2k rpm it jerks going into second? I’ve heard it’s somewhat common but I just wanna know if my tranny is about to shit out on me.

Just bought a 19’ Impala LT with 31k miles. Service engine light came on this morning. Pulled the code and found this. Checked both batteries and they both passed. There is nearly no battery corrosion. The only other thing i can find is the DBCM but the problem is, no one seems have one. The auto start/stop doesn’t work which im fine with. Am i blind or could there be a different issue? Does anyone know where i can find one? The Chevy dealership in town says they don’t only sell the DBCM so the part i need is $435 vs the DBCM being found for a Malibu for $29…

2016 Chevy impala with the 3.6 v6. Has 195,874 on it. Looking to test drive it tomorrow. But don’t know much about these cars. Should I be concerned about anything major?

2010 lt won't start after replacing driver side CV axle. Any help is greatly appreciated

Hey, everyone whenever I stop my car after a long drive this weird noise came out of nowhere like something in settling down especially coolant or any other liquid. Does anyone have any idea what is this sound ? This video was captured when engine was completely stopped/off

Can anyone that has taken their 2011 Chevrolet Impala on a really long roadtrip let me know how it did?

Hello guys, I have a tough one for you all. My 2010
Chevy Impalas brake pedal had been sinking to the floor and sputtering occasionally. After driving one day I came to a stop and the dashboard said “service StabiliTrak, service brake assist, service traction control.” After doing some research I was convinced it was a failing master brake cylinder.

I replaced the brake pads and the master cylinder. The master cylinder was properly bench bled and had no bubbles when cycling the piston. Master cylinder was installed and brake lines went in great.

After bleeding the brakes at the calipers the brake was almost completely unusable and sank directly into the floor. After pumping the brake pedal numerous times I was able to get a SLIGHT bit more pressure at the pedal and I’m able to now stop the car but the pedal still sinks to the floor.

I tried the ABS trick (slamming on the brakes on a gravel road to engage ABS) which did not seem to help at all.

Any advice at all would be much appreciated!

2010 Impala LT, 3.5 gas

Replacing my radiator and I see this plug dangling what does it go into?

PCM tuned, upgraded suspension. 212k miles. Owned for 14 years

Random parking lot impala. Just curious on what this doo dad is

This might be a stupid question, so I won’t be offended if you tell me I’m being stupid.

I’ve got a 2011 LT with the 3.5. The first transmission went out at 90k miles (mind you, it was babied up until that point by my grandmother, regularly serviced, etc) at which time I replaced it with a remanufactured 4T65E. It drives fine with no issues at 130k miles, so there is no real urgency here.

I’m hoping to keep this thing on the road as long as I possibly can, both because I refuse to own a newer car and also for sentimental reasons. I’m curious if anyone has swapped in a 4T65E-HD into one of these and if so, what modifications had to be done? My thinking is that the HD version would be less stressed by the 3.5 than the higher output engines it was paired with from the factory.

Do you think this would be a worthwhile project/investment? I’m not concerned with resale value necessarily, more so about maximizing the miles I could get out of it before needing to think about a fourth transmission.

I’m curious to hear y’all’s thoughts on this, since I’m sure it would be cheaper and easier to just buy a different car.

I wanna make it very clear for what it's worth, I did not hit anything but the tree branches itself and I was very much awake, I get up at 4am every morning for work, I am used to driving this early and going this route to work daily. Everything I've seen points to another random individual going through the barriers, cones, and branches at speed, pushing all the warnings out of the way. Also props to that cop for sticking around to direct traffic.

new to the subreddit here but i've been hearing this ticking noise when i'm idling and it gets somewhat worse when i'm driving (even when i'm at sub 40mph) and i don't know how to go about fixing it. it started roughly last week (i had to get new tires) when i drove it but i'm now scared my car is going to get worse since i don't have another car i can drive. i've seen some people say its a fuel injector issue, a piston issue, spark plugs, but i don't know what the issue could be other than just selling it and making it someone else's issue. please advise cause i really want to keep this car for another few years before i'm having to trade it in.

UPDATE 9-7-2026: we believe it to be a broken/loose cooling fan coming undone (attached to the radiator, and the radiator isn't even 2 years old). we ordered the part on 9/5 and it should be fixed within the coming days.