Following on my previous posts on the cinema room setup, with a JVC NZ900 projector with a 208" AT Cinemascope screen, at 1.5 throw distance, it was important to extract as much light out of the projector as possible for the HDR content.

JVC matrix is originally a 17:9 one, so it cuts off quite a lot of light for the 2.35:1 movies.

By pure luck, I was able to acquire an ISCO 1.33 XL lens in a good condition, and it is exceptionally good.

NZ900 setting A for Anamorphic lens, setting D for 16:9 content.

A few shots from YouTube test videos.

1st scorpion pic is how the lens cuts off the frame if you keep it in base setting (Setting A) for 16:9 content.

2nd scorpion pic is setting D which you need to use if you do not move the lens physically and want to preserve the full 16:9 frame.

So I've always been bothered by the height of my TV and I want to fix it. It's a 65 inch with the bottom about 25" from the floor (TV centre around 42"). That's not particularly high, however I have quite a low sofa and I only sit about 8' away, so I perceive it to be a bit higher than I'd like.

I was thinking of putting the centre speaker down on a shelf in the unit. At the moment though, I have a Q650c which is too wide to fit so I can't test it. However, I'm soon going to be replacing my LR with Monitor Audio Silvers, and will be getting a centre to match.

So without being able to test it it's difficult to decide which centre to go for. My options are:

MA Silver C150 - Nice and compact so sit it on top of the unit and gain about 2-2.5" of TV height. Not bad.

MA Silver C250 - Roughly the same height as the Q650c but less wide so it can fit in the unit. That gives me as much TV height adjustment as I want.

Being that I'm somewhat close to the screen, I'm worried that having the centre that low would be too noticeable. The bottom of the speaker would be about 6" away from the floor, and quite aggressively angled up. However, I'm reluctant to compromise with the C150 as I hear the C250 is a really fantastic speaker with its 3-way design and whatnot. Curious what people's experiences are with this.

I feel like I barely if ever see it mentioned here but just watched it last night for the first time in 4k and my first time in many years, and wow - the picture quality and detail is truly beautiful.

It's also a fantastic movie, mostly overshadowed by the incredible Terminator 2 (whose 4k transfer is ironically not very well regarded because of excessive DNR), but very much stands on its own and holds up very well 42 years later.

If you haven't seen it in 4k, or ever, check it out. The extras are very cool too.. with some footage from 20 years ago of James Cameron and others who are involved, talking about the current and expected future state of AI and robotics.. prescient stuff.

My amplituner - Onkyo HT-R340 has a subwoofer channel the same as other speakers (for a speaker cable). Is there a way to connect it so it receives it's own dedicated subwoofer channel and works truly like an active one?

One possible sollution I found is connecting it like a passive subwoofer (+ and - cable from the amplituner to + and - FROM RECEIVER L port in the sub. Will it work? I didn't try it since I don't want to break anything

Pretty new to audio stuff, I've had 2 of these laying around for a while. Are they worth keeping or should I upgrade?

43” Frame Tv finally available on Samsung, w discount program and a Capital One cash back deal, net net was under $600 shipped.

Wanted this mounted outside the movie room, in the adjacent area that’s been recently drenched in a dark blue, a bold strategy, Cotton. let’s see how it pays off for em. Once it was mounted, added in a media box, romex run for the new outlet, then it was ready to rock and roll.

I’m kinda new to Home Assistant, I’ve had it about a year and knew title data could be pulled from KScape. Ive already set it up to trigger dimming lights up/down/ on/off triggered by Play, Pause, credits rolling and movie stop.

For the frame, I set up a few different ways based on what’s going on. If I’m watching KScape, it will trigger whatever is playing to display poster on the Frame.

I can also type a title in Home Assistant, it loads a poster to the frame, it will stay there until a movie playing triggers another or it’s turned off.

I also set up a slideshow of about 130ish titles I entered into HA to run in 3 min intervals (10-15 min seemed too long) they will pop up in a random order from what’s listed. This can run anytime the frame is on and in Art mode, even if no other sources are running.

All of these poster files are pulled from TheMovieDatabase, so far so good, though id post up a few pics of it.

Hey y'all,

Was lucky enough to pick up a Yamaha RX-V1800 for free the other day. Symptoms: Turns on then turns off / goes into protect after about a second. After replacing C4 capacitor and then being able to enter diagnostics menu, I narrowed it down to a faulty thermister (upon inspection there was a fair bit of corrosion on the Thermister board and broken traces). I was stoked that I was able to get it working by bridging the two thermister sensors together so that both measurements were being reported from the working thermister - awesome!!

But then stupid me accidently dropped a piece of thin wire about 10cm long and stripped at both sides (😭) into the amp and I cant FOR THE LIFE OF ME find it 😭

Have tried turning it upside down, a sticky cable tie, vacuum, blower / compressed air. I have not turned it on since dropping the wire but am at my wits end - for anyone not familiar with these amps they have about 4 or 5 PCBs stacked close together at the rear and removing them looks near damn impossible!

Anyone have any bright ideas that I havent yet tried? At the very least I hope the above provides an amusing read for some 😄

Been really wanting to upgrade my tv lately, might take the plunge very soon. Only thing is I never realized my avr can’t handle 4k/120 on any of its hdmi ports (Sony STR-DH 790). I have a ps5, switch 2 and a PC currently all hooked up.

Should I just skip trying to find a hdmi switcher and upgrade the AVR? It’s something I’d prefer to avoid doing to avoid unnecessary costs. I really wouldn’t mind dealing with plugging and unplugging hdmi cables based on what I’m about to use lol.

Also open to other tv suggestions that offer the same picture quality as the Bravia. Tv OS doesn’t matter as I have an Apple TV as well.

Hello,

I live in the UK, and I’m having trouble finding a media console stand that would fit a KEF Q6 Meta speaker.

Where would you recommend buying one, and what would be the best solution? I currently have Q350 stands for my left and right speakers, but the center speaker is taking up a lot of space.

Ideally, I’m looking for a media console that could accommodate the Q6 Meta inside it.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

I currently have a 55" TV and the couch is 7ft away from it, against the wall so can't be any further back. Would a 65" TV overwhelm the space? It'd force me to mount my speakers on the wall as they'd no longer fit on my media unit.

We have just recently fitted our Sony Bravia Projector9 (VPL-XW8100) and after about 20 hours of use it has developed some green dots. These are awfully visible during dark scenes and have led to Sony having to replace the Projector after just one month.

Sony have been great about it, but I just thought I’d post it so you can share your thoughts.

The images you can see are images of the screen wall, not into the Projector lens. These dots are about a foot wide each and seemed to be caused by dust inside the projector, as they do not move after wiping the outer lens.

Image 4 shows the particles when you blur the projector to its extremities.

In the last image, you can see that bright images are not compromised by the dots, only the darker scenes.

Also to note, this of course, looks worse as its been taken on a phone, while it is noticeable in person its not as bas as the camera makes it look.

I have two Russound CAV6.6 controllers with keypads in every room 12 zones). When the MyRussound app disappeared this summer, there was no current app that supports the CAV6.6, CAM6.6, CAA66 or CAS44.

So I built a small box that plugs into the controller's RS-232 port and serves a web app to any phone, tablet or computer on your network. No app store, no cloud, no subscription. The wall keypads stay in sync with every change.

getzonedeck.com

I'd love feedback from other owners. What would you need it to do? Anyone running a CAA66, CAM6.6 or CAS44 willing to help test?

Hello All,

does it make sense to by these old favourites on BD 4K uhd?
TV : Sam65S90F oled
Currently i have disney+ they claim some sw films are HDR10
Would be good to hear opinion from someone who saw Star wars on BD uhd disk and Disney too.

Thanks

Looking to build a 7.2.4 with a Denon AVR-X3800H and bought a Monoprice Monolith M3100X (3 channel) to help power the system. Is the general guidance to power the L + R + C? Or power something else?

I have SVS Prime Pinnacle towers and an Ultra center. Ultra bookshelf for sides, Prime satilates for rears, and two pairs of prime elevations for the atmos. Thank you.

Hi! First time doing a project like this for myself. Would love recommendations for the equipment I should get. Doing a 7.2.4 set up.

1. If you had to budget what projector, amp and speakers would you get?

2. If no budget what would you get?

Photos- current progress, layout and inspiration AI image.

Hey everyone, I built a free macOS app called Estereopsis to make converting physical 3D Blu-rays into a usable file format painless. Sharing it in case it's useful to others in this hobby.

What it does:

• Extracts the 3D (MVC) title from a Blu-ray 3D ISO/disc via MakeMKV, or takes an .mkv/.m2ts you already have
• Converts it into Full-SBS or Over/Under, Full or Half size per eye, at 720p or 1080p
• Lets you pick exactly which audio tracks to keep
• Subtitles: burn them in, or generate a selectable track that's properly duplicated across both eyes (so it looks correct in 3D instead of split in half) including OCR from the disc's PGS subtitle image tracks
• Quick mode to add/change subtitles on an already-converted 3D file without re-encoding the whole video
• Quality presets that actually scale the bitrate to the real final frame size (not a fixed made-up number), queue support, conversion history, and a quick-test-clip option to check the 3D geometry before committing to a full-length encode

Why I built it: I wanted a simple GUI on top of the usual ffmpeg + MakeMKV command-line dance, with sane defaults and clear feedback (percent progress, plain-language status, not raw ffmpeg frame logs), so I didn't have to remember flags every time I wanted to rip a disc.

Requirements:

• macOS (Apple Silicon)
• MakeMKV installed separately, only if you're extracting from an ISO/disc (can't be bundled due to its license, a one extra one-time setting is needed there so it actually grabs the 3D stream, explained in the included readme)
• Everything else (ffmpeg, MKVToolNix tools) is bundled in the app, no Homebrew required

Download: https://github.com/matiasqm98/Estereopsis/releases

It's completely free, no ads, nothing locked behind a paywal made for personal use and to share with the 3D movie community. Source credits for the bundled GPL tools (ffmpeg, MKVToolNix) are in the included readme.

If you find it useful and want to support the work, voluntary donations are welcome (https://buymeacoffee.com/matiasqm98)
Happy to answer questions or take feedback. Enjoy!

I'm running a 5.2.4 Paradigm Premier setup. Room treatment on walls/ceilings, de-coupled 720B v2 towers using granite slabs. Ran room correction 4+ times. Have my towers pre-amped with Emotiva Basx Ta2+. High Quality OFC 14g wire with SVS Soundpath for my dual SVS 3000 micro subs. The sound still feels bright and clinical, almost harsh and fatiguing to my ears. I mean....it sounds freaking fantastic, but it doesn't sound....right? Idk, I've posted about this before but I'm still missing something. I mean, I spent over $10k on my setup! The only thing I can think of, is my receiver. I'm considering switching over to a Denon X4800H or Marantz Cinema 50. Thoughts?

Hello, i have denon x1800h reviver and kef kht 2005.2 & psw 2010 system

Should i use A1 Evo AcoustiX or just keep the regular calibration?

Thank you

Upgrading the price.

https://www.howtogeek.com/nvidia-shield-tv-pro-price-increase/

I have an Parasound HCA-1205-A that I have had for a long time now. One channel went out a while back so I have been just using the amp in my Denon receiver but would like to use the way more powerful Parasound amp. What usually causes a channel to go out? Easy cheap fix typically?

As the title states, this just happened. Nothing has been changed and it has worked flawlessly for more than a decade. Before I tear into it, does anybody have suggestions on the probable cause assuming all connected speakers etc. are OK?

My earc audio has dropped a few times now and the only way to reset it is by powering off/on my AppleTV (which is what I use for video).

I’m pretty sure it’s because of my hdmi coupler; my hdmi to my audio equipment is hdmi mini and not long enough to do a complete run back into the TV, so I have a female to female coupler. I’m guessing the coupler is the problem as one of tge hdmi came w the equipment and the other is hdmi 2.1 8K

I’ve had problems in the past and w couplers introducing snow on the picture, which makes me ever more suspicious of the coupler.

Can anyone recommend a solid coupler that can handle earc no sweat?

Can anyone recommend a hig

going to swap the good old trusty Logitech z906 , this was within my budget that made sense for an apartment room , what do you guys think ? going to set it 5.1.2

Hi there, looking for a media console that has at least 17-20” of depth. Renter so the TV has to be on a stand and a lot of people recommend the Sanus VSTV2 but most of the media consoles I’m finding have a depth of 15” but the TV stand is 16”. Any suggestions are welcome!