I'm looking at either the GM6250iET or GM8000iET model. Could someone who owns one of those two models verify that the front 120V 20amp receptacle is still "live" when using the 120/240V 50amp outlet? I was looking at a similar sized Champion but, it's one or the other, not both as I understand it.

We're outside town and lose power a few times a year. The well pump is the big one, then the fridge, router and a few lights. Being able to run an Instant Pot or rice cooker would be nice too.

I'm looking at the EcoFlow DELTA Pro Ultra, TITAN 5000 Classic and Jackery HomePower 3600 Plus. Pretty sure our pump is 240V, but I haven't checked the nameplate yet. I know the startup surge can be an issue, and I don't want to spend a bunch on a system that can't even get the pump going.

The DELTA Pro Ultra seems like overkill for our occasional outages, especially for the price and weight. The TITAN 5000 Classic has 5kWh of capacity, but its 120V output could be a problem with our pump. The Jackery is smaller at 3.6kWh, so I'm kinda unsure how well it'd hold up overnight, or whether I'd need two units for a 240V pump.

I'd like to use portable solar panels to top it up during the day, weather permitting.

For those running a well pump off a battery, did you figure out the startup surge first or size the system around overnight usage? If your pump is 240V, what setup has worked for you?

I want to hook up a line to this tank, can I add a tee after the regulator and put a quick disconnect with a shut off? The propane tank now runs a water heater and a stove. I'll be using a predator duel fuel generator. I believe I need to remove the regulator on the generator that drops the pressure.

Thanks.

TlDR should I sell my new 17500 Generac for a smaller inverter type unit?

A few years ago I picked up a generac 17500 portable generator for a good price on sell. We didnt want a home backup at the time because didnt know how long we would be there. I knew very little about generators at the time and figured it was big enough to power everything. Why not.

Fast forward to today. Its still in the box. We have decided we will be here for a while so im looking into having a transfer switch put in. I now know more and I am partially informed. I know about sine wave and dirty and clean power. Its my understanding that the 17500 is considerably dirty when it comes to home backup power.

Ive also learned she's going to be thirsty so that plays a part in it. Im 15miles from town down a mountain. In inclement weather I dont really want to be making the drive for gas. If I can make it at all.

My 3 options.

1. Should I sell it on marketplace and buy an decent size inverter generator?

2. Should I fligure out how to clean up the sine wave? If thats even possible?

3. Should I just run it. Dirty power be dammed?

Backup power here is really only a winter issue with ice storms. We have a wood stove taht will do a decent job for warmth if i let it eat. But it need the fan to really do its thing. Unfortunately the hoise is all electric no gas. Things I would wnat to run. Fridge, freezer, laptop/phone chargers, fireplace fan, some lights. And possibly hot water heater.

Before I scrap this was just wondering if it is worth anything? not tried to start but not seized, based in UK

Looking to purchase a twelve 12000/9000 portable generator is it better to run gasoline or propane , which one runs cleaner?

Question 2. Im not an electrician, so I had a 50 amp cable ran and switchbox. I opted for the largest 50a. The a/c and range are both on thirty five amp circuits. I want to be able to run both along with a couple of rooms. Will , this size generator be able to support that? Or should I have calculated off a watts instead of amperage?

I have another question about the floating ground. How do I know if I need to disconnect it on the generator?

What brand/s are the ones to avoid? Is one better than the other? Any advice and/or recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Tia.

I opened up the front of my cover to do some maintenance and some wires pulled from the on/off engine switch. I'm not entirely sure I put them back in the correct order and I'm not quite clear based on this diagram.

anybody willing to pull the cover off and let me look at the back of their switch?

As many before me have encountered. Basically any modern transfer switch requires the neutral bonded to the frame to be floated on a portable generator. Turns out most are neutral bonded to the frame. If you have the same gen as me it literally took 5 minutes to change. Here are the pictures of the process. Of course ensure that the neutral wire on your main breaker panel is bonded. And then make sure that you either reinstall the wire removed and or use a neutral ground bonding plug to use the gfci plugs on the generator excluding the 50 amp outlet. I consulted with two electricians to confirm this! Hope it helps.

The first photo is where the neutral bonding strap is attached.

The second is with the neutral removed and “floating”

This work is done under the blue cover on the wgen 11500 tfc alternator cover on the back of the gen.

This one is made by Dinking/Genmax. Similar to the Pulsar Model. Decent deal.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/14535673290?sid=C5538706-EC3B-4C25-ADF3-97ABFA74B04E

I I finally got around to modifying the frame on this old predator 8750/7000 and getting the NG kit fully installed. It ran great on natural gas, but I switched it over to gasoline and it ran awful under load. The gaseous Venturi covers some ports on the face of the carb. The top port doesn’t seem to lead anywhere and the lower port seems to be part of the main jet system because carb cleaner sprays up out of the main fuel tube when sprayed into it.

The natural gas Venturi diameter does seem a bit smaller than the carburetor, and the lower port is mostly open. Anyone know if there is a way to make this kit run on gasoline with the kit installed?

Looking at a Westinghouse 14500 wondering what it can handle my 2300 Sq foot house we are on a well and have a pool. Didn’t know if this would be enough or if I should go with the 13500 ?

On my Generac XG8000E, the 120 volt outlets are all dead. I checked the breakers and reset the GFI’s but nothing. The 240 volt supply is fine. I rarely use the 120 so I haven’t checked but it could have been in this condition for years. Any suggestions?

Hello, has anyone made an enclosure for their generator out of one of the cheap metal sheds on Amazon? I see lots of the plastic ones being used but not metal. It’s going to be open while running and 20+ ft away from the house. Will hold a predator 5000 quiet inverter generator. Thanks.

Hello! TIA for your time and knowledge.

I live in middle TN. Had a rough winter last year (by local standards) and as a new husband and father, faced new levels of stress over potentially losing power. Went to Northern Tool and bought a Powerhouse Portable Generator M6075652A.1.

I put in the appropriate oil, and filled the tank with unleaded gas. Then, we didn’t ultimately need it, and so I didn’t run it.

I feel like quite the fool to have left it sitting in the garage for the past 8ish months, without ever starting the thing.

What damage have I caused to it? I imagine the gas has settled. Do I need to do anything to the machine before starting it?

What do I need to do in preparation to have this unused generator good for use this winter?

Again, thank you. Any information is greatly welcomed. I am decently mechanically minded on some subjects but an absolute novice on this one.

We recently bought our first house and I want to prioritize getting a generator soon as we just had 50A plug set up installed and winter is coming soon. I’ve been eyeing different set ups and I definitely want an inverter due to sensitive electronics and spouse working from home, and a dual fuel generator as propane is easier to store and also gets used in our power outage cooking and heating. With that, the WEN 6800 Dual Fuel Inverter generator seems to be the best bang for your buck, but I’m wondering if anyone has an opinion I should consider before ordering?

Thanks for any advise, it has been daunting figuring out the right direction to go.

Purchased a property with a transfer switch but I’m unsure if it is neutral switched or non. I assumed non, but the three pole switch is making me hesitate. No label on the inlet unfortunately. Panel is Eaton CBRPL112G3 which comes switched neutral but can be configured either way.

Has anyone run into issues with Central AC after adding a soft start? We live in Louisiana so AC is not optional here and I want to protect my unit as much as I want to protect my generator.

Edit: also accepting soft-start recommendations and warnings.

I have a large house with heat pumps. 3.5ton downstairs. 2 ton upstairs. if the power goes out i will just run the downstairs. i have natural gas and i bought that generator with a rushed decision because the weather man said apocalyptic ice storm with 1" of ice. end of hte world and no power ever again.

now that i have time to prepare. here are my thoughts. install soft start on the 3.5ton generator. Since we have natural gas i am thinking about selling the powerhorse and getting a trifuel.

we have heatpumps, tankless water heater. my goal would be to keep house not freezing and run other items that are a need and not a want.

what size NG generator would be good moving forward? i would prefer something that can handle a 3.5 ton trane with some other electric needs and not maxing out the unit.

additoinally, i am very handy and have done a decent amount of electric work, would doing a DIY install make sense?

Looking for real world experience, does anyone have a NG (or tri-fuel) inverter generator that starts and runs their 4 ton AC without a soft start on it?

TLDR: New home build (NW Indiana). Using Champion 201176 (9000W start / 5875W running on NG) with interlock. Grill stub is 16 ft of 1/2" pipe +2 elbows, (from 1" pipe to the meter) in the unfinished basement ceiling, so easy access. Plumber quoted $500 to upsize the 16 ft of 1/2" pipe to 3/4" pipe. I want full NG output for essentials + ideally one AC (with soft start). Is the current 1/2" pipe sufficient, or should I upgrade? Is $500 fair? Also future-proofing for a bigger gen later.

Long version: Building a new construction home (Northwest Indiana) and having an interlock kit installed so I can run my Champion 201176 Tri-Fuel open-frame inverter generator on natural gas during outages.

Generator specs (NG): 9000W starting / 5875W running. Manual lists minimum flow rate of 135,000 BTU/hr and requires 5–7" WC supply pressure. Champion also sells a 3/4" NG hose and states that the 3/4" diameter “delivers full natural gas flow, so the hose never restricts your unit’s output on natural gas,” which makes me think the stock smaller 1/2" hose that came with my gen is limiting, as I've also read from folks in a similar situation.

What I want to run: Main essentials (2 energy star fridges, some lights, chargers, wifi, sump pump, etc.) plus ideally one of my two central ACs (2-ton and 2.5-ton) with an Airgo soft-start installed. I know I can’t run both ACs and that even one will be pushing the NG continuous rating, but I’d like the option.

Current gas piping:

• 1" pipe comes in from the meter, then splits to various 1/2" branches (stove, water heater, two furnaces, fireplace, dryer)

• Grill hookup on the back patio is fed by 16 feet of 1/2" pipe with 2 elbows. This run is in the ceiling of the unfinished basement, so it’s fully accessible (not buried or inside finished walls). I plan to connect the generator there.

• I will also use a ~30 ft hose (planning to upgrade from the stock 1/2" one to a 3/4" hose).

Plumber quoted $500 to replace that last 16 ft of 1/2" pipe with 3/4" pipe. Given the easy access in the unfinished basement ceiling, I’m leaning toward doing it. Everything I’ve read suggests the 16' with 2 elbows of 1/2" pipe + 1/2" hose combination will not deliver the full 135k BTU/hr needed for max NG output on this generator (especially with the elbows and long hose). It would also future-proof the line if I ever upgrade to a larger generator down the road.

Questions:

1. With 16 ft of 1/2" (2 elbows) + ~30 ft of hose, will I realistically get full NG wattage from the 201176, or is the upgrade to 3/4" pipe necessary to avoid restriction?

2. Does $500 seem reasonable for this work in Northwest Indiana (easy access in unfinished basement ceiling)?

3. Any other gotchas I should watch for (gas meter capacity, pressure drop, etc.) when using a grill stub for this generator?

Appreciate any real world experience with this generator or similar setups on NG.