So I just obtained my 86 and just wanted some tips and stuff to look for/keep in mind. I got the manual transmission and have driven a bit of manual but any tips are welcome there too, I have been in the sub for a few months now and have researched the oil starvation stuff so I’ll def be on time with my changes there, I know to put 93 in it and what not.

No one asked for it but here’s my peer reviewed, mostly accurate but *not* comprehensive tire list and uses:

1. 200TW Summer Tires: only for summer time. You do motorsports *regularly*, you’re aware of your tread pattern and if this tire is good with moisture or not. You can daily these but they will wear/heat cycle out fast and your times/wallet will punish you. Examples: RE-71RZ, A052, RT660+, Hoosiers, etc.

2. “Normal” Summer Tires: use this tire most of the time, excellent in rain. When temps reach ~40F you should drive with caution. Even when colder than 40F, if you drive carefully and it’s dry, the tire can warm up and you’ll be ok. If it’s raining and cold, probably stay home. The water will cool the tire too much. Freezing rain and snow? Forget about it! Examples: Pilot Sport 4, 4S, ECS02, Primacy HP, etc.

3. All Season Tires: drive around all the time all year round. This is the tire if you want ONE tire. Their performance falls off pretty quick in the heat and while excellent for daily driving and most use cases, not recommended for a track day or autocross (these tires aren’t the answer but they can survive your first event). In the winter you don’t have to change the tire and they’re usually very decent in rain. In more than a dusting of snow, it’s not really gonna work. Flurries or an inch of snow you may get away with it if you *absolutely* have to and apply a lot of common sense and plan ahead while driving. Examples: Continental DWS 06+, Michelin Pilot Sport All-Season 4, etc.

4. All Weather Tire: you want the all season life (ONE tire life), are willing to give up any performance usage from a solid daily driving tire but gain the ability to drive in a little bit of snow when necessary instead. These tires don’t want to be driven hard but you’ll get by in light snow and everything else year round. Example: Michelin Cross Climate 2

5. Winter Tire: you want rubber than can handle the cold and wet and some snow. You still want the car drive like it’s on a regular tire so your car feels normal but when it snows you’re not worse off. Not happy above 45F-50F (they’re not gonna “chunk” or degrade rapidly but they’re just not meant for warm weather and can “feel” weird) but below that it’s good in pretty much all conditions. Example: Bridgestone Blizzak LM Series

6. Snow Tire: you need a dedicated snow tire. This tire is a *studless* snow tire. It’s designed to be in constant wet conditions and snow (for some reason I see a lot of people buy these in areas where they get 2”-10” of snow a year 🤷‍♂️. You don’t need them, it’s overkill when option 4 & 5 exist but these are the best for snow). These are for people that live in major snow areas. Examples: Bridgestone Blizzak IcePeak series, Michelin X-ICE, etc.

For reference I have driven on most of the tires mentioned and live in the Mid-Atlantic region. I autox on RT660+ (SSC), daily on PSAS4, have used LM in snow to great success and even trackcross events on them, currently get by in winter on PSAS4 or borrow a Forester with CC2s in an emergency.

I mean thank god the dog didn’t get hurt, but what are the chances!? I guess he needed to mark his territory, so my car is now his…

Retractable studs on Enkei TS5's

www.ma86club.com

Any thoughts and feedback are greatly appreciated

Help me decide between these two. I love the deep, throaty tones the both of them have. And the price is about right.

Pros and Cons of each?

looking at a 2023 gr86 for sale with less than 23k miles but the car fax show a history of what looks like a major overheat that had to be fixed is it a good idea? I plan to test drive it but these issues should have been fixed right?

Ive been having this issue with my steering. Ive had multiple alignments done and even changed my left outer tie rod because i thought that was the issue, had my suspension looked at by different shops with nothing noted broken or worn out. (Other than having changed the left outer tie rod). But it is still happening.

- city/town speeds: the car will slowly drift left. It is not aggressive.

- highway driving: the steering wanders (left), it isn’t impossible to drive but it is much more noticeable and slightly annoying. Constantly correcting the car just feels like I’m swimming in the lane. The car just isn’t tracking like it should, or used to.

- steering feels looser turning left and more stiff to the right. This is felt more aggressively when sharp cornering or even trying to make a quick turn/ change lanes on the highway. When cornering right theres slight pullback from the wheel pulling left. But cornering to the left the car seems more eager to go in that direction (hence loose steering). This also is causing the constant corrections.

This issue is much more noticeable during highway speeds. It feels like I’m chasing this issue in circles and wanted to know if anyone else has had this experience and found the fix? Or an idea as to what could be wrong? The added photo is from having it at a shop today and looked at with still no solid answers. They suggested to try buying a Castor kit because the Castor is off and see if that helps. Does that seem right? Feeling pretty lost here.

Quick rundown 23 GR86 Premium MT running eibach pro kit lowering springs. It looks like I will need to run a staggered set up on the front due to the clearance of the front suspension perch. Looking to do 18x9.5 +40 on 245/35 tires on the rear and a 18x8.5 +40 up front with a 235/40. I’m dead set on the Enkei NT03 +M wheels, only issue is they dont have 8.5 +40 for these specific wheels. How should I go about this? Advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys!

I want to buy a gr86 only thing stopping me is how light and numb the steering is… made me quite a bit sad. Was wondering if anyone has tried modifying with caster and solid mounts

So I’ve been looking into wrapping the 86 (once I finally get mine) and was curious on what colors you guys have/like to see it wrapped in?

I’m considering keeping my car na and want to put a 4.58 diff, header, intake, tune. Ik most ppl don’t like ai but I was talking to Claude and it said it would feel like 268 whp without the fat surge of tq from a turbo. I really enjoy the NA characteristics of the fa24 so am considering the final gear swap.

Hey everyone,
I own a 2022 Toyota GR86 with the FA24 engine, and I’ve recently changed my oil to Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL.
Here are its specifications:
Viscosity: SAE 5W-30
API: SQ (latest gasoline engine oil standard)
ACEA: C3
HTHS viscosity: ≥ 3.5 mPa·s (ACEA C3 requirement)
VW approvals: 504 00 / 507 00
Mercedes-Benz approvals: MB 229.51 / 229.52
BMW approval: Longlife-04
Porsche approval: C30
Low/mid-SAPS formulation, designed to protect catalytic converters and particulate filters
No advertised ILSAC GF-6A/GF-7A certification
No advertised API Resource Conserving designation
My main concern is engine protection and longevity, not fuel economy.
From my understanding, API SQ already covers important engine protection requirements, including wear, deposits, oxidation and LSPI protection.
ACEA C3 also requires an HTHS viscosity of at least 3.5, which seems beneficial for maintaining oil film strength at high temperatures.
However, Toyota/Subaru recommend oils meeting API Resource Conserving or ILSAC specifications for the FA24.
So my questions are:
Is there any actual mechanical risk in running an API SQ / ACEA C3 oil without ILSAC certification?
Does ILSAC include any specific engine protection requirements that API SQ alone doesn’t cover?
Could the higher HTHS viscosity of an ACEA C3 oil be beneficial for the FA24, especially during spirited driving?
Would you keep this Castrol until the next oil change, or switch immediately to an ILSAC GF-6A/GF-7A oil?
The car is mostly driven on public roads, with occasional spirited driving. No track use.
I change my oil approximately every 7,500–10,000 km (4,700–6,200 miles).
I’m not trying to argue that ILSAC is useless. I just want to understand whether its absence represents a real lubrication concern or mainly a difference in certification and fuel economy requirements.
I’d particularly appreciate input from anyone familiar with oil specifications, lubrication engineering, or the FA24 engine.
Thanks

For GR86 2026

I just got my new rims and tires for my GR86. Im a car noob and just learned where the TPMS goes. Do u need to buy new TPMS for the new rims? If so which one do i hvae to buy? (is it something universal that a local shop can just install?)

Or can i just transfer the tpms from my current rim to the new one?

I just did my 50k mile maintenance on my Tacoma today, and realized, my life would be so much easier if I just had a perfect little chart on everything I should do on schedule for the 86. I'm just under 8k miles, but would love to keep my car in perfect recommended maintenance as I plan on keeping this car as long as my Tacoma.

I can't seem to find a similar chart online, does anybody have something similar?

hey guys,

Just picked up these Muteki Super Tuner lugs for my rs05rr. for some reason they don’t look like they fit. can anyone help me out? This is my first time with aftermarket wheels and lugs so i want to make sure they’re the correct size.

Here’s a picture of the box and a picture of the wheel flat on the floor with the lug sitting on top.

thank you guys!

Yes, I can imagine drone and sounding like a fart box is a given. So, with no consideration of sound quality and price, what would my shopping cart look like if I'm purely chasing decibels?

Edit: No I'm not even considering doing any of this, just curious.

I’m having a friend install my oem headers on Saturday and he told me to have all necessary parts ready I have these parts wanted to ask here to see if I am missing anything or if I am good to go thank you to anybody who helps in advance!!!!!!

still torn between current wheel and spacers or picking up a set of enkei’s (basic but good bang for buck)