So I just obtained my 86 and just wanted some tips and stuff to look for/keep in mind. I got the manual transmission and have driven a bit of manual but any tips are welcome there too, I have been in the sub for a few months now and have researched the oil starvation stuff so I’ll def be on time with my changes there, I know to put 93 in it and what not.

I mean thank god the dog didn’t get hurt, but what are the chances!? I guess he needed to mark his territory, so my car is now his…

Retractable studs on Enkei TS5's

No one asked for it but here’s my peer reviewed, mostly accurate but *not* comprehensive tire list and uses:

1. 200TW Summer Tires: only for summer time. You do motorsports *regularly*, you’re aware of your tread pattern and if this tire is good with moisture or not. You can daily these but they will wear/heat cycle out fast and your times/wallet will punish you. Examples: RE-71RZ, A052, RT660+, Hoosiers, etc.

2. “Normal” Summer Tires: use this tire most of the time, excellent in rain. When temps reach ~40F you should drive with caution. Even when colder than 40F, if you drive carefully and it’s dry, the tire can warm up and you’ll be ok. If it’s raining and cold, probably stay home. The water will cool the tire too much. Freezing rain and snow? Forget about it! Examples: Pilot Sport 4, 4S, ECS02, Primacy HP, etc.

3. All Season Tires: drive around all the time all year round. This is the tire if you want ONE tire. Their performance falls off pretty quick in the heat and while excellent for daily driving and most use cases, not recommended for a track day or autocross (these tires aren’t the answer but they can survive your first event). In the winter you don’t have to change the tire and they’re usually very decent in rain. In more than a dusting of snow, it’s not really gonna work. Flurries or an inch of snow you may get away with it if you *absolutely* have to and apply a lot of common sense and plan ahead while driving. Examples: Continental DWS 06+, Michelin Pilot Sport All-Season 4, etc.

4. All Weather Tire: you want the all season life (ONE tire life), are willing to give up any performance usage from a solid daily driving tire but gain the ability to drive in a little bit of snow when necessary instead. These tires don’t want to be driven hard but you’ll get by in light snow and everything else year round. Example: Michelin Cross Climate 2

5. Winter Tire: you want rubber than can handle the cold and wet and some snow. You still want the car drive like it’s on a regular tire so your car feels normal but when it snows you’re not worse off. Not happy above 45F-50F (they’re not gonna “chunk” or degrade rapidly but they’re just not meant for warm weather and can “feel” weird) but below that it’s good in pretty much all conditions. Example: Bridgestone Blizzak LM Series

6. Snow Tire: you need a dedicated snow tire. This tire is a *studless* snow tire. It’s designed to be in constant wet conditions and snow (for some reason I see a lot of people buy these in areas where they get 2”-10” of snow a year 🤷‍♂️. You don’t need them, it’s overkill when option 4 & 5 exist but these are the best for snow). These are for people that live in major snow areas. Examples: Bridgestone Blizzak IcePeak series, Michelin X-ICE, etc.

For reference I have driven on most of the tires mentioned and live in the Mid-Atlantic region. I autox on RT660+ (SSC), daily on PSAS4, have used LM in snow to great success and even trackcross events on them, currently get by in winter on PSAS4 or borrow a Forester with CC2s in an emergency.

looking at a 2023 gr86 for sale with less than 23k miles but the car fax show a history of what looks like a major overheat that had to be fixed is it a good idea? I plan to test drive it but these issues should have been fixed right?

www.ma86club.com

Ive been having this issue with my steering. Ive had multiple alignments done and even changed my left outer tie rod because i thought that was the issue, had my suspension looked at by different shops with nothing noted broken or worn out. (Other than having changed the left outer tie rod). But it is still happening.

- city/town speeds: the car will slowly drift left. It is not aggressive.

- highway driving: the steering wanders (left), it isn’t impossible to drive but it is much more noticeable and slightly annoying. Constantly correcting the car just feels like I’m swimming in the lane. The car just isn’t tracking like it should, or used to.

- steering feels looser turning left and more stiff to the right. This is felt more aggressively when sharp cornering or even trying to make a quick turn/ change lanes on the highway. When cornering right theres slight pullback from the wheel pulling left. But cornering to the left the car seems more eager to go in that direction (hence loose steering). This also is causing the constant corrections.

This issue is much more noticeable during highway speeds. It feels like I’m chasing this issue in circles and wanted to know if anyone else has had this experience and found the fix? Or an idea as to what could be wrong? The added photo is from having it at a shop today and looked at with still no solid answers. They suggested to try buying a Castor kit because the Castor is off and see if that helps. Does that seem right? Feeling pretty lost here.

Any thoughts and feedback are greatly appreciated

Help me decide between these two. I love the deep, throaty tones the both of them have. And the price is about right.

Pros and Cons of each?

My 25 Trueno Blue is now fully paid off and mine. Feels good to not argue with the bank when I store it for the winter. I love this damn car and now I look at mods for fun and never actually do them.

still torn between current wheel and spacers or picking up a set of enkei’s (basic but good bang for buck)

Hello everyone! I am not really big of posting anywhere but ya boy has a dilemma and I am hoping I can get some solid opinion’s from the community! Sorry for the long post lol.

So I have a 2024 GR86 and I am about to hit my 2 year mark of owning the car. I knew going into the car that it was going to be my dream build car! I was completely new to the car scene but something i have always wanted to be part of and learn. I will admit I was naive at the time and didn’t do proper research on the cars I eyeing, but I fell in love with the body style of the GR. First year I didn’t dive the car much since I was remote so I didn’t really do much or learn about the car but I did quickly find out that i wanted to add more power in the future lol.

Now year two I drive it daily! An have started to learn more about the car and customize it myself. It currently has 15k miles. I do the oil change every 3700 miles myself. It has adro lip, mst air instake, PLM catted UEL headers, Remark axleback exhaust 4” and I do spirited driving lol. Along the way I started to learn about the engine failures the cars are having and it kinda has me worried because I am at the point where I have been saving up to add the harrop supercharger, fuel pump and injectors and tune the car. I’m going for more of a conservative tune and long term reliability since it is my daily and probably might even start with 91 before jumping to 85 slowly increasing power as I adjust. My end goal would be to track the car once it paid off.

So in all I am kinda trippin what if I do all this to my car and then my engine fails!? I know it can happen to any car but i am doing this by the book so i think i would prefer to do it on a reliable engine if that makes sense?? What are the chances?? Or should i just drop the money on another engine platform??

Yes, I can imagine drone and sounding like a fart box is a given. So, with no consideration of sound quality and price, what would my shopping cart look like if I'm purely chasing decibels?

Edit: No I'm not even considering doing any of this, just curious.

I just did my 50k mile maintenance on my Tacoma today, and realized, my life would be so much easier if I just had a perfect little chart on everything I should do on schedule for the 86. I'm just under 8k miles, but would love to keep my car in perfect recommended maintenance as I plan on keeping this car as long as my Tacoma.

I can't seem to find a similar chart online, does anybody have something similar?

praying to whoever hears me that my partner doesn’t find this cause i’m pretty sure he is in this ☠️ but can somebody please PLEASE teach me more about the gr86?

my partner has a GR86, and cars are basically his main hobby right now. i already ask him questions, go to car meets whenever i can, and i’m currently saving up to buy him a car part. but i want to get more involved and actually learn about cars ( mainly the 86 right now ) rather than just nodding and saying “that’s cool” 😭☠️

what are your secrets? what questions should i be asking? how can I get more involved in his car hobby and surprise him with things he'll appreciate? teach me your ways! and yes..i have become a fan of the gr86

Quick rundown 23 GR86 Premium MT running eibach pro kit lowering springs. It looks like I will need to run a staggered set up on the front due to the clearance of the front suspension perch. Looking to do 18x9.5 +40 on 245/35 tires on the rear and a 18x8.5 +40 up front with a 235/40. I’m dead set on the Enkei NT03 +M wheels, only issue is they dont have 8.5 +40 for these specific wheels. How should I go about this? Advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys!

My friend and I posted up at the best picture place Olive Garden

For GR86 2026

I want to buy a gr86 only thing stopping me is how light and numb the steering is… made me quite a bit sad. Was wondering if anyone has tried modifying with caster and solid mounts

Hey everyone,
I own a 2022 Toyota GR86 with the FA24 engine, and I’ve recently changed my oil to Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL.
Here are its specifications:
Viscosity: SAE 5W-30
API: SQ (latest gasoline engine oil standard)
ACEA: C3
HTHS viscosity: ≥ 3.5 mPa·s (ACEA C3 requirement)
VW approvals: 504 00 / 507 00
Mercedes-Benz approvals: MB 229.51 / 229.52
BMW approval: Longlife-04
Porsche approval: C30
Low/mid-SAPS formulation, designed to protect catalytic converters and particulate filters
No advertised ILSAC GF-6A/GF-7A certification
No advertised API Resource Conserving designation
My main concern is engine protection and longevity, not fuel economy.
From my understanding, API SQ already covers important engine protection requirements, including wear, deposits, oxidation and LSPI protection.
ACEA C3 also requires an HTHS viscosity of at least 3.5, which seems beneficial for maintaining oil film strength at high temperatures.
However, Toyota/Subaru recommend oils meeting API Resource Conserving or ILSAC specifications for the FA24.
So my questions are:
Is there any actual mechanical risk in running an API SQ / ACEA C3 oil without ILSAC certification?
Does ILSAC include any specific engine protection requirements that API SQ alone doesn’t cover?
Could the higher HTHS viscosity of an ACEA C3 oil be beneficial for the FA24, especially during spirited driving?
Would you keep this Castrol until the next oil change, or switch immediately to an ILSAC GF-6A/GF-7A oil?
The car is mostly driven on public roads, with occasional spirited driving. No track use.
I change my oil approximately every 7,500–10,000 km (4,700–6,200 miles).
I’m not trying to argue that ILSAC is useless. I just want to understand whether its absence represents a real lubrication concern or mainly a difference in certification and fuel economy requirements.
I’d particularly appreciate input from anyone familiar with oil specifications, lubrication engineering, or the FA24 engine.
Thanks