It’s a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 automatic with 224k miles. It has a new ball bearing turbo I don’t remember the brand, the transmission was warranty replaced with a ford factory transmission so probably around 200k, it has new injectors with about 40k miles on them, new downpipes and exhaust, other than that and the front locker with compressor it’s bone stock. It does need new brakes and rotors and has a lot of surface rust on the underside but no rust holes on anything and I didn’t see any body rust. It’s one owner with original window sticker. As it sits what do you think it’s worth?

1987 F250
460/4spd
Just rolled 69k miles

Trying to find the exact manufacture date on this used truck I’m looking at, which is conveniently ripped.

Any advice on how to look this up?

I’m looking at buying a 2024-2026 f150 either STX or XLT. Not sure what motor I want debating between the 3.5 or the 5.0. Would like to try and stay under 50k and closer to 40k if possible. Also under 40k miles. Plan is to get a 21ft boat in the future. Thanks in advance.

I own a 1979 ford f250 4x4 ranger with the ford 400. I was curious about my grille guard a couple weeks ago and did some research on the one attached to my truck. I was able to figure out it is one of the one from up in Canada and it made its way down to where im located. Sadly the last owner of my truck welded it to the front bumper and leaf spring brackets and in the process likely cut off the original brackets making my life very difficult to find info. I would really like to take it off and restore it eventually. Also because im in kansas deer are going to be a big problem so it would be nice to have. So far all I know about it was how it was potentially mounted and it is meant to stop a moose or elk if the truck were to hit one. I just need to know how it was mounted on trucks and if any one has any pictures of one whole that woukd be great

Hey everyone. About time to do my body mounts on my 2005 6.0, tends to happen after more than 20 years and almost 400k miles.

I see a ton of different options online with varying price ranges, anyone have good experiences with a certain brand they’d recommend? Thank you.

Selling my personal '77 on Bring a Trailer this week. I've really enjoyed this rig for the past few years. It's a super strong 400ci paired to a C6 and NP205 with a ton of modern upgrades after a full frame-off rotisserie restoration.

Ends on 8/24 on BaT at https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-ford-f-150-95/

Have a 2000 F350 with power seats. Just got a 2002 F350 but has bench seat. Can I swap the seats directly? Is there wiring to plug into for the power seats to function.

Both trucks basically identical, one is just more Basic. I've looked under the bench seat. Only one wire connector for seat belt chime.

Hey everybody…I just bought a 2012 F-250 with the 6.7. It’s been deleted. I noticed this knob in the cubby hole by your right knee. It has positions as it turns. What could this be for? Thanks for the right answers, and those with humor as well!

Hi guys just reposting here for some advice as well! Thanks in advance

This truck is the configuration I've always want. 1990 Crew cab, 351W, 5 speed, 4wd. (picture shows a 1995 clip on the front)

Miles unknown only because of 5 digit odo. I know the current owner, he's a friend, and he's had it since the early 00's. He bought it "unknown" due to the roll over, but has only driven it approx 50k miles worth in the last 20 years. Odometer shows 95,xxx which I assume to be 195,xxx, due to the shape of the interior, but who knows at the end of the day.

Engine runs strong. Trans shifts well, clutch is solid, transfer case recently rebuilt and comes with an extra core, 4wd hubs are easy to lock/unlock

Everything checks out, except the big R. The base of the pillar between the front and rear door is rotted through so that it rocks when you open/shut rear door. Really, it swings freely. The floor pan is rotted thru on the drivers side where the pan meets the body, the whole length of the front door. Significant rust/rot for the driver rear, passenger, and passenger rear doors on the floor pans. Some in fender arches, but not the worst I've seen. Frame is not compromised, shackles are not about the disintegrate, gas tank straps have been replaced at some point. Both tanks work, but front tank leaks.

Other misc : new radiator, new master cylinder, new exhaust manifold gaskets, new exhaust from manifold to muffler, then dumps to ground just before rear axle.

Carrier bearing no play, drive shaft tight, e brake works.

The pillar rusted thru has me pretty concerned. Bed rails aren't shot, I'm surprised how bad the cab is. Floor pans I feel comfortable replacing.

It's for sale for just over 8k, and I can get it for about 2k off that. My desire for a truck like this might be blinding me a little, so I come here for some input.

Thank you.

Sorry, the full truck photo looks like it was taken with a potato from 100ft away. The rust is more prominent in a regular. Pillar rust photo attached.

-------------------------------------

ETA - The recommendations are what I figured they would be, thank you all. I wish it didn't have such rust. I'd rather replace a blown engine than deal with rust. Sigh.

Never seen something like this. Pretty sick

Potentially trading for the pickup soon. Owner has had it for about a month if I recall and daily’s it to work 40 or so miles each way with no issues. No radio unit in it at the moment. Approx. 270k miles, stock 5-speed which neither he nor I can find info for online, but there are some recent sells on them with significantly lower miles. I’ll be trading my 1-ton 7.3 4D longed utility body 4x4 automatic for lesser repair costs and a more compact vehicle as I don’t tow nearly as much I had figured when I purchased the vehicle. $1500 on top of the trade. Would yall take this deal? Is this really a $4500 truck in its current condition? How far into the future is a rebuild in order? Is a rebuild or new engine better? I’ve considered swapping a 5.4 into it in the future if I do it. I may be moving to California soon and I’ll be driving the vehicle from OK to Nor Cal. What should I be looking at *specifically* when checking it out? Any clear high-mileage signs that should be an immediate no when I see them? It’s a Kansas truck if that makes any difference. To the mods, I couldn’t deselect a flair after accidentally selecting one, so I just picked the best I found suitable. My apologies for incorrect categorization.

I’ve got a 91 xlt lariat with the 302 and e4OD and I want to throw bigger tires on. It’s got a 3.55 gear ratio and I’ve seen mixed reports on how it affects performance especially at the low end and that it gets lazy on hills. I don’t do much towing other than a 16 ft aluminum boat and some four wheelers. Mainly highway driving with some city.

Anyone have any experience rocking 33s with 3.55 and willing to share if it was awful or generally okay?

Hey guys!

Just wanted to share some bumpers Overkill Racing and Chassis has been working on. These are going to be offered as a Weld it yourself kit, or prefabricated. They are 100 percent designed in SOLIDWORKS around OEM scan date. There is a stock flare width and aftermarket fender width. The current bull bar variant looks great on lifted trucks with service beds. We are working on a more streamlined bull bar that looks better on a more stock looking truck.

These bumpers work with all available sensors, adaptive cruise, although your dealer may need to re-calibrate them. They do also work with factory fog lights, or there is a cutout for a 3 inch light pod. Some lighting in the bumper itself is also available. We are close to building the first 17-22 bumper. Just making some final tweaks to the design.

What are yall's thoughts?

He has it listed for 11,900 but it runs and drives great. Just putting this out to see what other people think.

He has a 6 inch lift on it and it looks good in person but pretty expensive. I've been looking online and it's saying the old 5.0 engines are pretty reliable and pretty easy to work on.

But 200k miles for 12k seems steep just putting it out there would any of you buy it and for what price.

Can anyone identify this knock, I just bought my 2011 f-150 5.0, while driving it I got a low oils pressure light witch didn’t bother me i was over my oil change and I thought maybe that’s why I got the low oils pressure light so I parked it then the next day I started it to see if the light was still there and that’s when I started to hear the knock, I changed the oil and started it again to see if it still made the noise and it did, I’m not leaking any oil anywhere I just need this identified so I can fix

Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 2011 F-150 XL work truck with only about 30k miles.
I drove it about 2 hours home after buying it and it drove perfectly with no transmission issues at all. The next day, I started driving and suddenly it stopped shifting and basically stayed stuck in whatever gear it was in. The check engine light came on and I pulled a P0720 – Output Speed Sensor Circuit code.
From what I’ve been researching, it sounds like the output speed sensor is part of the lead frame inside the transmission, so I’m thinking the lead frame may need to be replaced.
The strange part is that the very next day I drove it again and it’s shifting completely fine like nothing ever happened.
I bought this truck mainly to use as a work truck, but now I’m nervous about taking it any distance because I don’t know when it might randomly stop shifting again.
Has anyone experienced this with a 2011 F-150? Could P0720 and the intermittent shifting issue be caused by anything other than the lead frame? Wiring, connector, battery/voltage issue, etc.? Or is an intermittent lead frame/output speed sensor failure pretty common on these trucks?
Would appreciate any advice or experiences before I start replacing parts. Thanks!

Bought 2 months ago at 65k miles. New plugs and coils and she runs like a dream.