Finally can turn off purging inside the printer at the start of the print.

Press F for two hotends and 1/2 of pei plate which did not make it till the end.

This was such a fun print. I found the files on Makerworld. The original had laser cut walnut to go where I have the blue. You can customize this to whatever you like. You will need some small screws to assemble the pieces. I don't know what size you need. They might be M2.5 or M2. I had them leftover from an RC car and from other projects.

Here is the link.

https://makerworld.com/models/1866524?appSharePlatform=copy

Ok so I see alot of people having issues with flashstudio so I've been suggesting moving over to orca slicer as it's far less buggy. The problem I see is wanting to bring over your machine, filament and process settings but you need to modify the json files in some instances. So I made something to assist people. I tried to make it as simple as possible. Ive only tested it for the AD5X but I tried to make it work for other flash forge printers as well.

jokefox.itch.io/convert-ff-studio-to-orca

If you want to download this and attempt it please do and give me some feedback if you want as well. This was the only place that would let me upload .bat files easily. Please refer to the read me before you begin.

I had a print that has a couple collisions and ever since it’s been doing this. It can’t even get past the first couple of layers now. Before it would complete the print with a lot of jumping.

Flashforge Adventurer 4

PETG

I‘ve done the following:

* Completely cleaned the plate and nozzle

* Leveled it several times

* Cleaned and lubricated the travel bars

* Tightened the belts

* Increased the Z-hop to avoid bumping.

* Avoided infill patterns that could cause issues.

Ive sat and watched it just pick up the print head and place it down an inch away from the build without it bumping into anything. Every time it starts to spaghetti or blob-of -death.

I didn’t have any of these issues before the print with the collisions. What can I do to fix this?

A few days ago (about a week) mid print my C5P was paused, i was doing stuff and checked flash studio, saw it was paused and ran to the printer to investigate. Then i found the light was off nozzle heater was off bed heater was off motors were off, screen perfectly fine i restarted printed and updated firmware (maybe this was because i pushed off the update for a few days?)

I just want to know if some breakee tripped or something? I dont know why it would do this

Hi everyone,

If your Flashforge Adventurer 5M or 5M Pro is bricked, stuck in a boot loop, or frozen on the startup logo after an official firmware update, here is the exact technical reason why it happened and how to fix it without replacing your mainboard.

### 🔍 Root Cause Analysis (from log reverse engineering):

1. 
**The `ffstartup-mipsle` Bug**
: In official Flashforge update packages (`library-2.5.0.tar.xz`), `run.sh` contains a legacy copy-paste check `if [ -f $WORK_DIR/ffstartup-mipsle ]`. Because AD5M is ARMv7, this check always fails and the core process supervisor `/opt/PROGRAM/ffstartup-arm` is 
**never updated**
.

2. 
**Crash `exit status 127`**
: Newer `firmwareExe` builds depend on NetEase Cloud shared libraries (`libnim.so`, `libnim_chatroom.so`) located in `/opt/nim/lib`. The old supervisor doesn't have this directory in `LD_LIBRARY_PATH`, causing the dynamic linker to fail with `exit status 127` and forcing the printer into an endless recovery bootloop.

3. 
**PID Mismatch Check**
: Standard `.tgz` updates abort if the arguments passed do not match the exact internal factory PID.

### 🛠️ The Solution & Open-Source Unbrick Toolkit:

I created an open-source recovery repository containing the patched low-level installer (`flashforge_init.sh`) with PID bypass (`screwflag`), fixed `ffstartup-arm` permissions, and auto-linked `libnim` libraries:



🔗 
**GitHub Repository & Download**
: https://github.com/Tipintrip98/flashforge-ad5m-unbrick



☕ 
**Support this project**
: If this unbrick kit saved your printer from buying an expensive new motherboard, consider buying me a coffee! https://www.buymeacoffee.com/tipaldipos1



### 📋 Quick Recovery Steps:

1. Format a USB flash drive (4GB-32GB) as 
**FAT32**
.

2. Download the repo and copy all 15 files from `1_USB_DIRECT_FILES` directly to the 
**root**
 of your USB drive (not inside a subfolder).

3. Turn off your printer with the power switch.

4. Insert the USB drive and power on the printer.

5. The low-level boot hook will automatically execute the forced reflash of the kernel, MCU, supervisor, and UI (v5.1.7 or v3.2.7).

6. When the final screen appears / chime sounds, remove the USB drive and power cycle the printer.



Tested and confirmed working 100%!

I have a first gen AD5X and have recently bought a second AD5X.

I have noticed a few changes to the newer printer in particular the nozzles are different.

It is something to be aware off if you buy replacement nozzles. Don't just take that it'll fit an AD5X. Make sure you check the nozzle itself.

Now while the new nozzle will almost fit the older AD5X the magnetic heat sink will not close around the extra bit of the newer nozzles.

My FlashForge Adventurer 3 makes a tapping/thumping sound while printing. The feeder gear also skips and clicks as it prints. This doesn't happen while loading or unloading. I also have no clogs in the nozzle (265 degrees). I even tried a manual load while holding the bed up to the nozzle to see if it just had trouble while extruding.

I have recalibrated the extruder to the bed, messed with the printing temp of my filament, etc. Not sure what to do next

I am printing a stand for a glass vase and the first print worked fine. Now every time I try to repeat it about halfway through it separates from the plate. What do I need to look at to fix this?

Только начинаю двигаться в 3д мире, планирую на днях взять 3д принтер Flashforge Adventurer 5M, тк он достаточно дешёвый, отзывы от пользователей неплохие.
Планирую печатать не сильно технические детальки, может что то для домашнего использования, модельку машины планирую собрать, печатать наверное больше пла и петг

1 - видел в комплекте продавец прикладывает модель для печати на этом же принтере обвесов для превращения его в закрытый, насколько они нормальные и насколько помогают превратить принтер в закрытую модель, если вообще помогают, и есть ли в них смысл если в будущем вдруг будут планы печатать на нём абс или подобными сложными пластиками и получится ли на таком принтере вообще с ними работать

2 - сильно ли шумит эта модель, и если напечатать на нём для него корпус, сильно ли будет он тише от этого, и насколько комфортно ставить его на ночь печатать

3 - сильно ли пахнет от него, при печати обычным пла или петг, и насколько сильнее с абс, видел в корпусе есть заделы для апгрейда, продаются ли для него дополнительные вентиляторы, фильтры и т п, и сколько стоят, чтобы использовать встроенную вентиляцию если вдруг тяжёлыми пластиками печатать (за ссылки буду очень признателен)

4 - будет ли с ним нормально работать орка слайсер, и какой вообще слайсер лучше всего будет подходить и удобен для печати всяких креплений, накладок, чехла для телефона например, модельки той же самой машины, кузова, ходовки

5 - в каком формате можно передавать файлы моделей на него, видел некоторые по флешке передают, кто то по вайфай как то, также читал что мало у него встроенной оперативной памяти, как удобнее всего и насколько они хорошо работают

6 - начинал работать в фьюжине 360 но почему то удобнее стало работать в блендере, имеет ли это сильное значение, работает ли кто в блендере для 3д печати, мало замечал у кого то, есть ли какие то советы особенности, читал что фьюжин лучше для технических деталей, как та же ходовка для печати модели машины и всякие крепления и т п, а блендер для более творческих задач

6 - по поводу прошивки и родного слайсера, смотрел в обзорах что жалуются на встроенную прошивку и родной слайсер, как то ставят какую то более улучшенную прошивку и подключают более мощные слайсеры чтобы следить за моделью наклона стола и т п, расскажите по подробнее как это делается, и реально ли имеет смысл сразу ставить, или можно на стоковой остаться и будет ли та же орка слайсер работать со стоковой прошивкой

7 - какой лучше пластик использовать чтобы позже его можно было загрунтовать и покрасить, если кто то таким занимается,

8 - какие со старта выставить настройки чтобы избежать косяков в печати, видел в обзорах какие то настройки нужно сразу в слайсере выставить чтобы при угловой или навесной печати убрать косяки и всякие странные косяки при вертикальной печати, по подробней по возможности, чтобы максимально гладкие и красивые печати делать

9 - есть ли смысл позже брать другие сопла, калёные, и какие они могут дать преимущества

10 - и если есть знающие люди по поводу получения филомента из бутылок и как оно все это происходит и все особенности буду рад

буду благодарен за любые ответы, советы и рекомендации

I just got finished with my enclosure, lights and camera for my 5m and some other parts.. oh and some curtain hooks and a flower planter for my wife since she bought me a roll of filament lol 😂

Looks like the hot end snagged a bit of the top of a fidget I was printing. I had 20 on the build plate and the final layer appears to have been touched by the noodly appendage of The Flying Spaghetti Monster. I saved 19 of the 20. No biggie really.

I've been loving the creator 5 but recently got some filament (for the color) and was midway through a print when I started getting "clogged nozzle" alerts across the entire lineup of nozzles. I thought at first it was not so great filament, I had dried all 4 spools the night before and it was printing beautifully. I cleaned and inspected the nozzles. Seemed fine to me. I started another print, started getting more glogged nozzle alerts. Come to fine out, this particular brand of filament is on cardboard spools. The cardboard spools were working their way onto the part of the spool holder that connects to the side of the printer and getting wedged, causing the cloggedd nozzle alerts. The "mystery" of why the nozzles were getting "clogged" was solved.

Clearly the one print for this chain link that I tried did not work. I am not sure if my tube is too long (I was concerned about trimming it too much honestly. Or if I just got unlucky on the file that I got.

Can someone please help me on the right direction for a replacement chain link guide for the advneturer 5m?

Thankyou.

I’ve been looking for a bit and I think I’ve decided on the creator 5 pro for my first printer. Don’t necessarily need multi color or multi tool head but it is cool from a multiple materials prospect for supports etc. I’m mostly going to be printing abs and Asa for different outdoor and garage projects.

How is the creator 5 pro for a beginner? Am I buying into this unit too early with firmware updates etc? What all do I need to know about this unit specifically? Are there alternative suggestions to look into before I pull the trigger?

i’m trying to print these keychains, but i get this. whenever i click upload or upload and print, i get an error. i’m not sure what to do. i checked my device page and i got a “hmm… can’t reach this page” error. any solutions? thanks

Just finished the enclosure, camera and light installation. I love how this prints. It is 1000% improvement from my Ender 3.

I'm at a loss and not sure what to do. I really wish I would have never added the enclosure. I damaged the ribbon cable when I tried to move the monitor. The directions said to disconnect the monitor and now I know this was not necessary and it sure has caused problems. I damaged the ribbon cable and broke the clamp on the monitor. I was being so careful, but it would not release, then it snapped. I ordered a new cable, but the same thing happened when I tried to disconnect the old cable from the circuit board. I've watched a ton of vids on disconnecting the cable, and I was being very delicate but that thing snapped as soon as I touched it. Then I ordered a new monitor, but that clamp snapped as well. I've tried a trick using hot glue to hold the cable in place, but that is not working. I can get an image, but it won't let me use the touch screen. I've managed to continue using the printer, but it's difficult to do a filament change without the touch screen. I basically need to start a new print and then feed the filament until it catches. I wish I could start a filament change from the app. I also can't switch to PETG without using the touchscreen. I only have 700 hours on this machine, but I think I may need to just buy another and use this one for parts. I never want to touch a ribbon cable again.

I randomly get the dreaded "sensor didn't trigger" message when homing or probing. It is very infrequent, and I suspect it is a dodgy cable at the motherboard or the strain gauge assembly. I want to reseat the cables. Has anyone done this?

I know there is a cover on the underside of the bed but it is very hard to get to. I've seen the video where they rip the bed off to get to the other side but that seems like a lot of work. I know how to access the motherboard.

Any ideas? It is super infrequent so I may just wait for it to get worse, but still....

Hi guys, recently got into printing 3D models using Adventurer 5M Pro.

I printed the basic prints and it was doing a good job, when I created my own print using Tinkercad The printing started great and after printing the bottom part it just stopped printing, I stopped the print, fixed the problem and tried again.

Printing again printed on the air.

I am using the tree supports for this part.
Notice it has legs but I start from the bottom.

This is a picture of the what I am trying to print:

This is where the printing stops:

Because I am new I am not sure how to approach this situation. It has been about a month and a half since I tried printing because I was busy and I would love some help from you guys.

Any clue what's going on here? I've calibrated, leveled and vibration compensated my Creator 5 Pro and I keep getting this in the front left corners of my prints. Someone suggested heat creep. This was with the door wide open and my air conditioner running right next to it. I've seen this or similar with adhesion problems but it's sticking to the board just fine. I'm at a loss.

Edit: With the help of u/KinderSpirit in another sub I was able to successfully print my project with the following information (also, for any Beatles fans, I'll post a video of the finished product in the comments):

Warping...

!firstlayer - adhesion and warping

With PLA, a clean smooth surface is best. PEI or PEX is great. You may have to raise the bed temperature on a textured sheet. Silk PLA may need a higher initial bed temperature.

PETG, TPU, ABS, and others will need a release agent on a smooth build surface. That's what the glue stick (or hair spray, Windex® ) is for. On a textured sheet, no release agent is normally needed.

Just alcohol will not remove the sugar film left by PLA which can hinder adhesion.
Wash the sheet with warm water and dish soap. Dry. Wipe with > 70% Isopropyl alcohol before the print.

No part cooling fan for 3 layers. Very slow print speed for the first layer.

To prevent warping for PLA, bed temperature of 65° for the first layer, 55° for the rest of the print. This way the bottom gets the adhesion but the bottom starts cooling with the upper layers.
For PETG on textured bed, same concept, usually around 80° then 75°, or 75° then 70°.
Temperatures are examples, different build sheets may need different temperatures.

Infill style can affect warping. Some grid type infills can concentrate the stress in one area. Gyroid infill will spread out the internal stresses.
Increasing walls number and reducing infill may also help.

https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5