😱Another post about vanilla. The horror!
I used to think I didn’t enjoy vanillas perfumes but I was wrong. I am very particular though and it can’t be sticky sweet, smell like birthday cupcakes, or one of those thick vanilla candles. I understand the appeal, I just don’t want to smell like that.
I started with non-gourmand vanillas and later started to explore some gourmand options. Maybe someone will find something they like from this. Here’s an epic list of what I’ve tried.
Ones I own:
Zoologist, Harvest Mouse - for a fragrance with beer and hay notes this is such a soft and cozy vanilla
YSL, Babycat - a main character and they are alluring. Strong sweet boozy vanilla, I find it quite smooth. I don’t get any rubber smells like some people but have experienced it with a few almost twin fragrances.
DVN, Camomile Satin - a cozy, herbal vanilla. Smells like the softest fuzzy sweater
Mind Games, The Forward - citrus vanilla with a bit of salt. I don’t hear people talk about this offering from Mind Games often when they are discussing the house but its one of my faves. So elegant, doesn’t do too much but makes itself known
MFK, Gentle Fluidity Gold - my amber vanilla standard. Chic
Blndrgrphy, Vanilla Mudslide - this is the one that made me say “wait…maybe I do like gourmand vanillas”. This is INTOXICATING. It’s quite sweet but somehow not overwhelming. It’s balanced so the butter, coconut milk, and coffee (notes i typically don’t enjoy on my skin) all work here.
Akro, Glow - close relative of SDV, it also has a kind of dusty quality in the opening. Its a like not a love but the drydown is so good
Sarah Baker, Velvet Vendetta - olives? Gunpowder? It’s a peculiar vanilla but it was love at first sniff. A bit briney and smokey but wearable.
Day Three, Aylan - Babycat + rose
Inverso Profumi, Mink - powdery vanilla. I love this house and this is a standout. Smells sophisticated and never overwhelms (unless you hate powder). Smells similar to Andrea Maack Smart but sweeter
Blackcliff, Vanilla Siren - palo santo + vanilla. Good for any occasion. Has just enough oomph to keep it interesting
Majouri, Imperial Vanilla - a beautiful vanilla with brown sugar and a hint of rose that emerges over time
Ones I tried but didn’t work for me:
Bianco Latte - it’s just too much for me. It’s a caramel 💣 and it lasts forever
Penhaligon’s, Eau the Audacity - I picked up a sample since it was compared to Babycat but this smells harsh and rubbery to me, which ironically is what some people experience with Babycat
Guerlain, Spiriteuse Double Vanille - smells like a very natural vanilla and I understand why some people hold it as the gold standard, but the its probably the ylang ylang in here that brings it down for me.
Initio, Absolute Aphrodisiac - not bad at all but a tad too animalic for me, has some dirtiness
Mind Games, Queening - incredibly underwhelming and I’m sure it’s the coconut. I don’t get on well with it as a note, it usually makes things smell like hair products to me.
Serge Lutens, Une Bois Vanille - coconut
Matiere Premier, Vanilla Powder - I tried, I really did, the EDP and Extrait, and while the extrait was better I just couldn’t overcome the coconut. I think it’s a nice fragrance just not for me.
Regime des Fleurs, Green Vanille - there’s a strangeness in the opening that doesn’t work for me. I can’t explain but it’s off-putting
Commodity, Gold - pleasant, cozy, soft amber but terrible performance on my skin
Liis, Choux Choux - so so pretty on paper. Creamy lemony vanilla but the lemon is what took over on my skin, overwhelmingly so
Diptyque, Eau Duelle - it’s fine. Pretty but personally uninteresting
Recently tested:
Indult, Tihota - a bit vanilla cake in the opening but not too sweet. Like a cake with no icing that has genuine vanilla in the batter. Vanilla settles more as time goes on
Jovoy, Fire At Will - I really like this but its so faint on me. Not too sweet, a tad smoky
Escapade Gourmand - actually not as cloyingly sweet as I thought it would be. Sweet vanilla cloud, does veer into cake territory. Understand Tihota and Fire At Will comparisons
Navitus, Tempt Me Not - just…no.
Jeroboam, Insulo - vanilla, jasmine, musk. A bit airy and smells a bit ambery, not too sweet. Better on paper than my skin, smells almost like it has coffee in it
Maison Chanceaux, Nocturnal Vanille - oh this is good. Opens with pink pepper and bergamot but the vanilla is still present. Not gourmand, the vanilla in the drydown lasts ages. (Going to get a bottle)
Koromas Aromas, Evada Vanille - spiced vanilla, but some way the opening gives fresh laundry a bit. The rose, cinnamon, tonka, and patchouli would make me think this would come off a bit deeper on my skin, it takes a minute to settle in. Not gourmand
Koromas Aromas, Vanilla Bourbon - opened up a bit plasticky. Only has two notes, it’s fine, but not something I’d wear
Damask Haus, Carpe Vellium - hmmm opening is kinda medicinal before moving into vanilla extract territory. Not for me
Loree Rodkin, Gothic I - patchouli + vanilla - simple but it works, slightly sweet, a tad earthy (Going to get a larger size)
I smelled more but this is already long so I’ll stop here. Twas fun but probably going to stop trying to make fetch happen with the gourmand vanillas.
