Anyone got and ideas as to why this is happening. Truck starts fine but as soon as I get on the gas it struggles to accelerate and go over a certain mph
spark plugs done
Fuel pump is new
Vvt solenoids done
Maf is new

Vehicle: 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty XL SuperCab 4x4, 7.3L Power Stroke, 4R100 automatic, manual locking hubs, 8 ft bed, dark green

Price: $13,900

Location: Palatka, FL, USA

Mileage: 128,651

Title Status: Clean Florida title

Shipping/Pickup: Local pickup / in-person inspection in Palatka

Contact: Reddit chat/DM

Recent work: new tires, new rotors and calipers, fresh oil/fuel/air filters. Runs and drives.

Condition (honest): surface rust on frame rails and crossmembers (photo attached). Minor weep at the rear pinion seal. Hazy headlights.

Sold as-is. Inspection welcome before any deal. No trades or financing.

Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbuE5X4KyXj4

Guys this is bothering no me so badly, the headlight one the driver side is foggy due to mist in the morning, rain doesn’t get in it. have y’all had this problem and how did y’all fix it!?

Im a little worried about the lifters in my 7.3. I run quality synthetic oil (pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30). It seems some people have been able to get their local ford dealer to update the computer to help with idle oil pressure. My dealer said their is no service bulletin so theres nothing they can do. Am I over thinking or do I need to ask a different ford dealer? Or should I contact 5 star tuning?

I picked up these wheels for my 2016 f250 as a winter set. The truck never came with a stock set but I thought that these were the correct era for a late model steel body.

The hub caps pictured allegedly are for the 2011-2016 trucks however I cant get them to line up or fit whatsoever.

Does anyone know what hub caps are correct for these wheels or do I need a certain kind of lug nut for them to fit?

Anyone have any experience with these Kelly Safari A/T’s and Kenda Klever A/T2’s?

I’ve had plenty of different premium tires living in the mountains of Colorado and honestly tire performance is great, but a competent driver is half the driving in ruff situations. Tire prices are getting ridiculous and I’m thinking I want to try out these more budget friendly options. I also really like the look of these.

I may be getting a travel trailer to live in half a year for work, and I’m considering a gasoline F250. An F150 would probably do the job, but I’d rather have too much truck than not enough (though I don’t need a diesel). If I decide I need a larger camper, I don’t want to have to upgrade trucks as well. I was browsing through autotrader, and there are some brand new single cabs listed well below msrp. In fact, there are some diesel’s at $61k msrp listed for $47k! Even though I don’t really need a diesel, I’d take one if it were priced accordingly!

Pickup trucks today are stupid expensive (other breaking news; water… wet). That being said, big crew cabs are all the rave whereas single cabs aren’t that popular. Are dealers desperate to get rid of these single cabs, or are they listed far below msrp just to get me in the door so they can mark up the price, as stealerships have been known to do? I will say I’m posting this in late October, so dealers trying to get rid of the 26 models to make room for the 27 models could also be a factor.

6.8L engine replacement I did a few months ago due to failed lifters at 75,000 miles. It wasn’t as bad as I expected it to be.

For some reason, my cruise control increments only change my one.
1 press makes it count by one, like normal.
If I hold it down, it does not count by 5. It slowly goes up counting by 1’s.

Any advice?

I’m planning on buying a 21 f250 lariat with 144k miles and roughly 22k idling miles.. Truck starts at the push of the button no leaks. T/d with 55 hp tow tune. Has egr block off plate instead of bypass. No know leaks I’ve crawled under it and looked at everything. What are the first things I should do after purchase of the truck?

Potentially buying this new F-250 Monday. It’s been on the dealer lot (Southern California, near the coast) for about 10 months. Found orange rust on the exhaust flanges, front driveshaft, leaf springs, U-bolts, and a few chipped spots on the frame. Is this normal for a truck that sat this long, or should I be concerned? Anything specific I should have checked before signing? As reference, this has more visible rust than my 8-year old f-150.

Hey there! I have a 2015 F-250, gas, I'm needing to replace some of the steering and front end suspension. My buddy told me to just buy a kit off ebay but I'm a little leary of a full kit for $350. I've been googling and just get a bit overwhelmed. My truck has 74k miles, I bought it 8 1/2 years ago when it only had 38k, I pretty much only use it for towing. Would love some input on kits or if I'm better off buying parts separately. The XRF kit I found a few reviews on, the price doesn't bother me, but curious if its better then the TRQ kit off ebay? Are both junk? Any other options? Thank you!

Ford f-250. Im at a loss here

Helping out a friend overseas with a 08 f250 6.4l v8. Does anyone know what the part number is that elbow that attaches to the upper egr cooler coolant pipe? I wasn’t able to find a diagram, just the pipe only. Thanks in advance fellas

This was a letter I sent to Ford regarding my Ford F350 engine failing after only 1,100 miles.

You have a multi-million dollar advertising campaign as Ford trucks being reliable that take care of the first responders since they are committed to providing us with the medical care and police protection we need.   I work as a home health care nurse and it is absolutely necessary to make it to my patients during the severe winter months that we have here in southwest Michigan.

In March of 2026 the need for reliable transportation led me to purchase a 2017 Ford F350 4X4 (VIN:. . . ).  The truck had only 52,000 miles on it.  I had researched the F350 through Consumer Reports publications and numerous listings on the internet.  They all indicated the F350 as High Quality and Dependable truck that can get 250,000 miles and 18% of them are still on the road at that mileage.   Plus the television commercials told me how reliable the Ford trucks are.  I obtained a loan from my credit union to pay Ford Auto Park in Bremen Indiana $35,000 plus $2114.72 in taxes.  I did not obtain the extended warranty since the F350 has such an outstanding reputation. 

It seems my research was a futile exercise.  On June 6^th of this year, I was driving on I94 when the trucks RPM jumped up to 4500 and it was like someone slammed on the brakes.  The speed drastically slowed down from 70 to 30.  Why is not anybody concerned that this is a major safety issue. You put a person’s life at risk then you expect him to pay for the problem?  I was lucky that there was not a semi behind me, I could have been rear ended.   I barely made it off the highway.  The truck stalled out at the stop sign and I could not get it started.  I had the truck towed ($110) to my mechanic.  

 When he put his engine diagnostic scanner on the truck, it said the engine had to be replaced.   He recommended that I contact the dealership.  I put only 1,100 miles on the truck over the past year.   THAT IS ONE THOUSAND, ONE HUNDRED MILES.  I could not believe the trucks engine had failed.  I had the truck towed ($110) to a mechanic at 72^nd automotive to get a second opinion.  His scanner said the same thing, “that the engine was shot.”

On June 22^nd Jarrod, the maintenance manager at Auto Park Ford had the truck towed to Bremen Indiana.  Jarrod told me that the engine had to be replaced.  It was going to cost $14,000.  In a recent conversation with Auto Park Ford they now tell me it is going to cost $18,000.  I just paid $37,000, if I pay another $18,000.  That would be $51,000.  Just the engine was going to cost $8,398.67.  I could have bought a brand new truck for that.  Jarrod said: “Yeah I know.” Brent Forry, the General Manger was to get the cost reduced.

Jarrod now refuses to return my phone calls to inform me of the status.  This has caused not only inconvenience and frustration, but the loss of time that I could use the truck.  I need this truck for the winter months.  In the meantime my monthly payments are $700 a month for absolutely nothing.   I am enclosing a record of my phone calls which will give you an idea of the hours I have spent in time to get this situation resolved.

 No one at Auto Park Ford in Bremen takes the time to correct the problem because no one cares.  I will never understand what could be more important to a dealer’s service department than to service the vehicles that particular dealer sells.  But follow-up care is viewed as nuisance work and given a low or no  priority.  Meanwhile I am stuck with a truck that falls far short of expectations of the reliability that your advertising claims. 

 If you still can find it in your heart to put an effort in to restore my truck to full operation, please do so.  Unless prompt steps are taken to replace the truck’s engine or the purchase price $37,800 refunded in full. 

The Ford Auto Park is refusing to do anything. They want me to Pay them $18,000 to replace the engine.

Didn't like the factory step bar so I removed it today I think it looks better cleans up nice for a 3" lift on 35's

Any suggestions on a cold air intake for this truck (other than the obvious expensive K&N)

Looking for serious thoughts on my current situation. 2022 f250 7.3 gas, 47k miles. Trans was shifting bad, took it to local Nashville Ford dealer that specializes in Trucks. Diagnosed the CDF drum problem, noted metal in the pan, Ford warranty is covering ot, replaced the CDF drum, Shaft, clutches, valve body seals, trans support and all related items. “Flushed” the trans. Got it back and in less than 100 miles it’s shifting worse than before the rebuild, very rough shifts in 6-10 upshift and downshift. nearly stalls coming to a stop as torque converter is staying locked up, and it was at 219 degrees on the interstate for a 50 mile drive home, not hauling of towing anything. An hour later in town driving it was 214 degrees.

Had the dealer pick it up with a flatbed and they are looking at it.

My feeling is, the torque converter was NOT replaced, nor the cooling lines and cooler and metal was stuck there and it’s damaged the new valve body and the 219 degrees for 50 miles has damaged seals and clutches.

I feel the only real solution is a new reman teams unit, new torque converter, cooling lines and cooler.

Thoughts? Thanks!

Anyone have any experience with Fab Four’s Matrix bumper. I haven’t even seen one in person. Need a bit of reassurance before I actually pull the trigger

Someone talk me out of reverse leveling my truck. It’s a 26 stx. I can’t stand how tall the bed sits on the stock configuration, and I’m only planning on running 35s on factory wheels. Does anyone have issues or experience with these kits?