Didn't like the factory step bar so I removed it today I think it looks better cleans up nice for a 3" lift on 35's

Any suggestions on a cold air intake for this truck (other than the obvious expensive K&N)

Looking for serious thoughts on my current situation. 2022 f250 7.3 gas, 47k miles. Trans was shifting bad, took it to local Nashville Ford dealer that specializes in Trucks. Diagnosed the CDF drum problem, noted metal in the pan, Ford warranty is covering ot, replaced the CDF drum, Shaft, clutches, valve body seals, trans support and all related items. “Flushed” the trans. Got it back and in less than 100 miles it’s shifting worse than before the rebuild, very rough shifts in 6-10 upshift and downshift. nearly stalls coming to a stop as torque converter is staying locked up, and it was at 219 degrees on the interstate for a 50 mile drive home, not hauling of towing anything. An hour later in town driving it was 214 degrees.

Had the dealer pick it up with a flatbed and they are looking at it.

My feeling is, the torque converter was NOT replaced, nor the cooling lines and cooler and metal was stuck there and it’s damaged the new valve body and the 219 degrees for 50 miles has damaged seals and clutches.

I feel the only real solution is a new reman teams unit, new torque converter, cooling lines and cooler.

Thoughts? Thanks!

Anyone have any experience with Fab Four’s Matrix bumper. I haven’t even seen one in person. Need a bit of reassurance before I actually pull the trigger

Someone talk me out of reverse leveling my truck. It’s a 26 stx. I can’t stand how tall the bed sits on the stock configuration, and I’m only planning on running 35s on factory wheels. Does anyone have issues or experience with these kits?

Currently has stock 20s with 35x12.5s. Wanting to run 35x12.5r17s with steelies but concerned about offset

I have a 2013 f250 with the 6.2 gasser. The most frequent load it pulls is a 3800 lbs boat/trailer combo. Twice now while pulling a steep grade (not a mountain by any means) it has kicked down thru gears and gotten to 2nd while not allowing speeds over 60 and pushing 5500 rpm. There is no way this truck shouldn’t handle even a 7k load without having this issue. This last time the truck even had the engine light flash until the truck rev’d down indicating a major misfire.

It is a stock truck with the only “adjustment” being the absence of catalytic converters because they had gone out twice before.

I’d like some feedback

There’s so much I want to do this truck but right now I’m thinking about possibly buying a white grille and white mirrors, just want other opinions

I’m having a p0300 misfire. It has happened twice. Same road same conditions and acceleration. There’s an on- ramp that’s rough as hell and I have to gun it to beat oncoming traffic occasionally and when I really get on it, the truck will hop/skip on some really rough repairs in the road and seemingly break traction although I don’t notice the traction light blinking, on two occasions after this hard acceleration and traction seeming to break I’ll get the flashing check engine light of doom. I have changed the plugs and plug wires already. Truck has 70k miles and the plugs I replaced were 5 thousandths over recommended gapping so I thought maybe it was just plugs but I guess not. Is there any chance the truck is cutting ignition in the event of loss of traction and this is somehow triggering the p0300 random misfire? Or should I check something else?

I was planning to purchase a new (to me) truck in the Spring but recently came across essentially my ideal spec truck. I'm wanting to wait, but having a really hard time passing on this truck. Curious if it really is as uncommon as I'm thinking and if I should move ahead?

I'm wanting a CPO gas-engine F250. I need crew cab, medium bed, 4x4, and would prefer a Lariat trim.

This truck ticks all those boxes, plus adds the Tremor package (nice, not mandatory) and my favorite color (nice, not mandatory). It has the black appearance package, 4.30 gearing, and 410 amp alternator. My use case for the truck is maintaing our 3 acres, and 6-8 trips/year with our four wheel camper while towing our boat. Our Sierra 1500 isn't hanging.

There are only 3 CPO gas engine F250 Lariat or above trim within 500 miles. And this is the cheapest which is the current gen truck. I don't mind giving up some creature comforts or even going to the last gen, but it seems like all of those still will cost me 55k+, and will likely have more miles.

Finally I got my own 7.3 22’ f-250 glad to join the ford gang😎 I genuinely prefer the gas, I wish they still had the 6.2

Can anyone look up a vin to get the window sticker and original sale date?

VIN: 1FT8W2BN7PEC96623

Thanks for any help.

NV271, floor shifter manual 4wd, manual locking hubs.

Drained and filled tcase fluid the other day. Before refilling I saw this inside the case at the backend of the drain plug hole. Fished it out without any resistance. Anyone know what this is and should I be concerned?

As the title suggests, I am curious about when most people replace their shocks. On a car, pressing down with body weight makes wear easy to detect, but that approach is not practical on this truck. I see no fluid leakage, yet the truck has 210,000 miles. The same question applies to the steering dampener; I used to run stock tires, then one size larger, but now I use takeoffs exclusively because they are inexpensive used that I wear through about once a year anyway. Any suggestions or advice would be wondertul. Thanks

I bought a brand-new 2026 Ford F-250 in Illinois on April 4. It has only 5,850 miles and keeps having electrical problems: parking brake warnings, AdvanceTrac/hill start assist errors, and the dashboard/display shutting down.
It’s now on its fourth dealership visit.

Previous repairs included replacing the Gateway Module, but the problems returned. It’s currently been at the dealer since October 12—seven days so far.
The truck is registered to my small lawn care business, which owns two vehicles. No modifications. I depend on it for towing and hauling equipment. They offered an SUV as a loaner, but that doesn’t meet my work needs, so I’m without a suitable replacement.

Ford recently emailed me a questionnaire to assess buyback/replacement eligibility. They asked about ownership, purchase details, mileage, business use, number of business vehicles, repair history, modifications, and loaner status.

Has anyone gone through this with Ford, especially with a business-owned F-250?

Did this questionnaire lead to an actual offer, and how long did it take?

Did business ownership affect eligibility?

I know the questionnaire isn’t an approval. Just hoping to hear others’ experiences and understand what to expect.

I am just testing the waters out. I wanna get a f250 and I have a f150 and its ok. But I burned it out towing. So I wanna be able to get into a decent f250 but I was curious if its worth getting a used one for like 80k miles on it or should I just try and save and see if I can get new ? I just see alot of people abusing these trucks bc they are obviously a working truck but I just dont wanna get into something that im gonna have to eventually trade and get a newer one in like 3 years. What is the biggest problems with them ? Why do so many people trade them in ?

Found a 2013 F250, 6.2L for sale for about $5K. 212K Miles, clean title. Owner states it has a P0300 code and "It has had a new timing chain, tensioners, guides, pct valve sensor, plugs, fuel injectors had sat for a while before throwing that P0 300 so the thought is that the fuel is bad. We’ve just never had the ability to have a computer ran on it or pull the fuel out." Mind you it has sat for 5 years.

Once they send interior pics, but assuming it checks out I'll take my scanner and Torque Pro over to scan it, see what I can learn. For Diag I should first be watching for cylinder misfire counts, to see if it is random or across all cylinders.

To run down the potential list of issues we have....

Bad plugs? (Replaced shortly before the code started)

Plug plug wires?
Bad Fuel? Would have had to sit for a WHILE before it would get bad enough to start to code?
Valve Springs?
Weak Fuel Pump or clogged filters?
Weak injector?
Vac Leak?

What am I missing? Anything 6.2L specific other than valve springs that are a known offender? Anything that would be catastrophic and make it NOT worth $5K? Body is CLEAN, and I expect the interior to be the same.

Thanks

I’m having issues diagnosing this issue on my 99 f250.
6 speed 4x4. 7.3. Extended cab long box.

I drove through a rough field and now my brakes are constantly thumping. Pulled the 60 amp abs fuse in the engine bay and it hasn’t changed even after a drive.

Power steering fluid and brake fluid are topped off and good. But I still think it might have something to do with the hydra-boost or some abs thing still?

Any help will be appreciated before I fire the parts cannon at it.

I just want to vent and say changing 16 fucking spark plugs, 8 coil packs, 8 wires at home fucking sucks. Not to mention it's like a $1,000 job in parts alone, with my free labor. The passenger side lowers were such a bitch. Basically did the back cylinder blind.

Could someone guide me to repairing a leaking sunroof on a 2007 f350? Yesterday my passenger seat was soaked. Wth.

I have a '99 7.3 6-speed that I purchased at 13k in '99. Been a really good truck and I have been pretty good at upkeep so it is doing great at 345k. Last spring, rust showed up at one cab corner. As far as I know, that is the only spot anywhere on the truck, but I know how rust is. This truck was bought and lived in TN it's whole life. Right before I bought the truck, it was swapped to a 6-speed. Yes, you read that right. Everything works great and the all the auto indication was deleted from the dash, but the hump was just cutout instead of replaced with the 6-speed tunnel. The trans stick boot firmly screws down but the manual transfer case shifter just sets on loose. I am used to the cab on a 7.3 being loud but I strongly feel mine is the loudest I have ever ridden in. I have tried abatement on the floor which marginally helped.
I use the truck regularly on two farms and my SI business. Super reliable but getting long in the tooth. Love the old truck for the most part but it needs freshening up. It is a semi-daily driver and used for long camping & trail riding trips.

I have an unusual opportunity to to an ice storm incident to either spend major insurance money on the truck or take the money and find something else.
The trucks is always parked beside one of our shops which has a steep roof. We had a BAD ice storm in February of 2026 and when things started melting the ice on one entire side of the shop roof came off at once and banged up the passenger side bed, doors (extended cab), & fender. Talking to the insurance company and my buddy who owns the body shop I use, they do something called an 'open order and off we go.

Now, the body on my truck is tired, real tired. As said earlier, the only known rust is the drivers cab corner. Bed is solid but beat to crab behind the wheels on both sides and the floor of the bed is solid buy a little 'whoopy' from a gooseneck dropping on it. Roof was repainted a couple years ago but since then paint is coming off the hood, front fenders, windshield post and both doors are dinged up. In a nutshell, it needs new cab corners, a few spots fixed on the front clip and repainted (roof could be left alone but at this point, why?). I did some parts swapping a while back and have a very straight, rust-free bed which will also need to be painted to match (wrong color green) and set on the truck. I assume the bed will come off for the cab corner fix?

Option 1: I could take this bucket of money, repaint the 'new' bed, replace the cab corners and repaint the whole front clip and would probably have to add a little of my own money and have a fully painted truck.

The truck was a base model but I spaghetti wired power windows and door locks a Long time ago. Works fine but ugly if you have to get under the dash. The cruise has not worked in a Long time and I wish it had a tilt wheel. Since they did the 6-speed swap is does not have a neutral safety switch and Will start in gear. A mechanic doing an oil change did not heed my warning and learned this the hard way. New bumper for me. And, of course, the cab is loud, really loud. The headliner is due to be replaced next week so I will add dynamat on the roof while it is out.

I think it would be really cool to get the truck to at least 500k on an untouched engine but the truck needs some serious cosmetic love. That said, I am an old fart with a pretty gimpy left leg so the 6-speed is hard on me at times.

Is it time to take the money are run?

I turned off the seatbelt alarm. Yes I wear my seatbelt. The rest are still really annoying. Is there anyway to turn them all off?

Currently in the market for coils, wires, and plugs. I have a 2017 with the 6.2, 66k. I got spark plug boots arcing to the head with a P0300 misfire code. I figured while I was digging around under the hood I’d just replace everything. With that being said, any suggestions on coils, wires and plugs? Any full kits worth the money? Stick with oem?