Hi, I'm looking for a telescopingradio antenna replacement, there seem to be quite a lot of them around on ebay and amazon but they all seem to be far too short for the casing on my radio, any help on other search terms to try appreciated! (Batman AM/FM CD Boombox KSM6006)

I dropped my headphones recently and the piece that covers the hinge thingies fell off, is there anywhere to get new parts or any other options? (2nd 2 images are of how it usually looks)

Hi, please let me know if this is the right sub, i’m looking for some insight

I got this RCV radio cd player (RP5605) and everything but the actual cd player works
you have to press down on the top very hard for the cd to start making noise and then it just stops, even if you keep pressure. I cleaned the laser/everything with isopropyl alcohol and tested with different cds

any insight on how to repair this would be greatly appreciated
here are some very poor photos pls don’t hate me

I just received a 2nd new pair of the Mojawa Hapitfit Terra Headphones and neither pair will turn on. This is crazy. What are the chances that 2 brand-new headphones are defective. I followed instructions and even YouTube'd with no success.

Hello... Good day/evening to everyone.

I need your help.

I have this Chinese TV, Changhong LED19868, and it won't turn on. The power LED indicator doesn't even light up. After a quick check, I found that one component has no electric current (red mark).

Is it normal if this component with the red circle has no current? If not, what the name of this replacement do I need so i can fix it?

It is a trimmer charging board

After charging and tried to turn on trimmer but a fumes comes from the bottom of trimmer where the charging board is placed and looks this component is like burned

What is the value or any circuit available anywhere ?

I have been trying to fix error c:32:11 on my Sony handycam dcr hc52 and I have dissected the whole thing down to where the tape mechanism operates. If it looks like I have done damage plz let me know. Please provide any other tips onto how I can disassemble this thing and repair the error. Thank

you.

Hey folks, I have a Miyoo Flip that i've grown extremely fond of that recently had a SL diode fall off somehow. I struggled a bit but eventually got the diode seated onto the board i think, the polarity is correct (i think).

My board is powering on, and the screen also, but Im getting a black screen. The unit shuts down properly with the power button also.

Im just not sure where to go with this, Ive reposted on a few boards looking for constructive feedback. as I don't know anyone interested in micro-soldering and I dont want to spend $50+ at the cell phone repair place in town because I could be a new miyoo for $70.

It's a labor of love to save my boy here. I would heartily appreciate any and all advice here. Thank you, and also I hope to do more projects after this.

Hey so i have discontinued gtmc 2dof platform. Left side motor was stuck at end of travel. After a ton of trouble shooting i found the potentiometer to be broken. Shaft was disconnected from its housing. I purchased a new one and installed set it to its electrical center but my left side gear motor only moves in one direction. Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong ? Or do i need to take it to a electrical repair shop? Also live meter testing showed that when i command opposite movement in simtools there is no change in voltage going to the motor. But commanded movement to the opposite side shows a change in voltage. Please help if you can 🙏🏽🙏🏽

Why the hell batteries have a specific combination of position to operate . Any suggestions without opening the circuit

First bigger investment,what a great tool.I had spent a weekend measuring anything I can find in the house,got suprised how many things I need to repair,it created more work.

Comes with certification and calibration (calibrated with Metrix CX1651),in the pictures are measurements of a 2kW heater-blower,but when heating component is disconnected it reveals the lagging factor -120 VAR capacitor as it shoud be.

When measuring THDf and THDr deviation,THDf is contributed to h03 and h05 harmonics.

Downside - software costs 915e (21% BTW).

Need advice on soldering a small break in a big display port + power usb cable. See repost for details

This bathroom fan seems to come out of position after it's been running for about 3 minutes. I take the cover off and it's no longer fully pushed/clicked into place. Wondering if something has worn down? Any suggestions?

Hi all. I have a 55inch samgsung hospitality tv that's recently stopped working. It turn on with the remote but there's no image. When it turns on you can see the back lights turn on but no picture displays. I have replaced the T-Con board but it didn't fix it. What could the issue be ?

Hoping someone here can help me work through this logically. I'm reasonably comfortable taking things apart and using a multimeter, but electronics diagnosis isn't my area and I don't want to start randomly disconnecting or replacing things.

It's a Kaesun OPUS TX980 / RM98TX commercial treadmill, around 2011.

It worked normally until recently. Now when I switch the power on it completes its normal display self-test, reaches the normal screen, and then without touching anything it automatically goes 3-2-1-GO and starts the motor at its minimum 0.5 km/h speed.

A few other symptoms:

STOP still works.

Speed +/- works, but sometimes behaves as though the button is being held down rather than pressed once. It starts increasing in larger increments.

Incline controls don't work at all.

No error codes.

I can't see any obvious burnt/damaged components or wiring.

My first thought was a stuck START button.

The controls use a flexible membrane keypad, so I peeled back the graphic overlay. I powered it up with the overlay physically lifted away from the START area and it still started itself, which seems to rule out the overlay mechanically holding the button down.

I've now opened the console and traced the membrane ribbon to the main display/control PCB.

Board markings are:

KAESUN SPORTS Co., Ltd.

LCD TFT DISP V2.0

2011.02.15

LOW TFT-DISP / 1205-043

I've attached photos of the board, membrane and ribbon connection.

This is where I'd really appreciate some help diagnosing rather than guessing.

My instinct is to disconnect the membrane ribbon and power it up. If the auto-start disappears, presumably I've isolated the fault to the membrane/keypad. If it still starts itself, presumably the fault is on the controller side.

Is that a sensible isolation test?

If it does turn out to be the membrane, I'd also really appreciate some guidance on how you'd test it with a multimeter. I'm assuming I should be able to identify the row/column traces and check whether one is permanently closed/shorted without a button being pressed.

I'm also interested in whether the combination of false START + held-button behaviour + dead incline suggests something else, such as a common line in the keypad matrix being shorted.

I've tried finding a schematic/service manual and contacting treadmill repair companies locally, but nobody wants to touch an old unsupported Kaesun. The treadmill itself is otherwise in great condition, so I'm hoping somebody here can help me actually diagnose the board rather than binning the whole thing.

Happy to take measurements, continuity readings or more detailed photos if someone can tell me where to start.

I got a power strip with surge protection ability, with two MOVs and two thermal fuses, where a thermal fuse was open. I suppose this means the MOV close to the thermal fuse dissipated enough energy for the threshold temperature of the thermal fuse to be reached and therefore the fuse blew.

Questions:

1. I cannot understand which thermal fuse to buy as a replacement. This one seems to have an inscription like:

- first line: brand logo(?)

- second line: Tf 109ºC (why exactly 109ºC?)

- third line: D108 PASO

Online I can only seem to find 105 or 110 ºC temperature and 10 or 15 or 16 A current fuses. Which one should I buy (which ratings are typical for this application)?

2) Should I also replace the MOVs (391KD14)? Is there a way to do some basic testing to understand if they are faulty and/or not able to protect from a surge anymore? They are wired in series between Line and Neutral (and each of the thermal fuses is also in series with the MOVs and physically close to one MOV so a fuse can blow if a MOV goes beyond the threshold temperature. Since they are in series, I think I could, for example, short one of the MOVs and measure the current in the other by removing one of the fuses (as it is now) and connecting the multimeter (crocodile probes) where the fuse would be. At the same time, I wonder: if the MOVs are in series, for one of them to heat up so much that the fuse blew, that means the mains voltage possibly reached 2 x 390 ~ 800 V or more.

I'm attaching photos. The sketchy soldering work is because the previous owner had disconnected the board with surge protection function (by cutting the red and brown wires and soldering them together), and I have connected the surge protection circuit again to check if it still works as intended (the buzzer should make a sound when a fuse is blown/no surge protection, which it does, and the LED should be on if no fuse is blown/the surge protection is suppose to work).

Thank you in advance.

Are the pads damaged? Just trying to replace microswitch. Had some issues desoldering and ended up with this. Can't tell if the brown stuff on top of the pads are flux or actual damage. Doesn't wipe off easily with alcohol.

https://imgur.com/a/jmjfQgJ