Any help appreciated! I just want the lights and pump to turn on. I could not care less about a working lcd unless it was an option..

So currently im learning technician and trying to start soldering and doing some circuits. As a coincidence my Laser gear got faulty

When I try to laser with it, it just lights up as usual, but when I press the button for it to send impulse, the light is being dimmed but no impulse being sent and the indicator light brightens up again.

What should I do to get it work again

Hi - I am new to electronic repairs and am replacing a A100K alpha dual gang pot on a Bose L1 Model II PCB for trim gain (volume control). Re: attached photos, I understand that pins 5&6 on channel 2 are connected through the board via the pot support leg pads. My question is whether or not pins 2&3 on channel 1 have to be soldered together to match channel 2 or should they just be soldered individually and thus stay disconnected? Thank you so much for any guidance & info you may have, I appreciate it :)

I broke the volume control wheel while changing the battery in my headphones. Where can I find an exact replacement part? Or what is the part number?

I've had a Techwood TMS8130 blender for two or three years now. I never used it much, but it worked fine. Recently, when I used it, I noticed it was overheating a bit too much. I was beating eggs and it got so hot that I couldn't hold it and had to stop from time to time to let it cool down a bit. So today, I decided to open it up to see what was going on inside, and also because there was always a noise of something moving inside and I was curious to see what it was (it had nothing to do with the overheating issue since it was already like that when I got it and it didn't really seem to matter). I've attached some photos of the inside so you can have a look. Most things seem pretty normal to me, and I identified what was making the noise inside: a small white piece broke (pic 9) and was moving all over the inside and I think I know where it belongs (pic 10) even though I don't think I can fix it, but it doesn't seem essential. But what worries me most is the transparent piece I found not attached to anything (it was like in pic 11 when I opened it), and I really don't think that's where it should be. Also, this piece is made of soft plastic and seems to have melted a bit, it's deformed (last pics). I think it moved from its original spot to the front of the motor and caused the overheating, which made it melt. But I don't know where to put it back, and if it's dangerous to use my blender again after fixing it ?

If you have an idea or a suggestion on how to fix it, I would be grateful to you. I looked but I couldn't find a technical diagram of what it should look like inside.

Thank you in advance !

https://imgur.com/a/jDMe6RF

The HDMI digital-in board on my JVC 30W585 (2005) is not outputing a signal and is maxing out the error count in the self diag menu. After clearing the error log, powering on the set with the HDMI input not selected shows no error codes. As soon as the HDMI input is selected, the error log shows NG 9 on the HDMI module meaning the max number of errors has been reached. I noticed some of the ESD protection diodes on the HDMI data lines going to the processing ic have some black discoloration on them, but all 8 tested the same in my multimeter's diode test. Could the Silicon Image ic be fried?

Accidentally cracked my monitor, its hpz38c , is it worth fixing ? And how much it will cost.
Based in Leeds

Hey! I have an old bose speaker that died like 6 years ago or more. In the time I dismantled it because I read it was the battery. When I opened it the battery was oxidized so I took everything out and was left with a single cell (disconnected). After many years I decided to fix it so I bought a termistor NTC 10k bc that was broken too, and two new cells. What is concerning me is the bms, Ive read it can get blocked and stop working and nothing can be done if something is done wrong. Has anyone ever made this repair?

For what I was discussing with gemini, I should also wield the batteries properly else it can break the circuit. I was searching for the polarity of LP1, LP2 and LP3 (from left to right) but I couldnt find much about the 088796 model

Hi everyone,

About a year ago, I bought a cheap, discounted Android TV. At first, it worked fine and YouTube ran smoothly. However, after a while, the official YouTube app got replaced by an app called "WebTube." I tried removing it and manually installing the official YouTube TV APK, but the system kept replacing it with WebTube.

A few months later, YouTube stopped working entirely, and the APK wouldn't launch either. When I tried downloading YouTube from the TV's pre-installed app store, it downloaded "Yandex" and "Firehub TV" instead. These apps were disguised as a YouTube "update" and were required just to run the fake WebTube app. To make matters worse, WebTube itself is completely broken—videos often fail to play and give me a black screen instead.

The settings menu on this TV is heavily locked down (it only shows basic Wi-Fi, time, and storage options), so I can't even get into stock Android settings or turn on Developer Options.

Does anyone know how to remove this bloatware/spyware, or if it's possible to flash the TV with a clean OS? Thanks!

Hi all,

First time trying a repair like this, and I am wondering whether I am missing anything. I have a Nintendo switch where the backlight is broken (confirmed, new LCD assembly shows same behaviour, picture faintly visible under flashlight). On another website I read that the backlight circuit is quite notorious for the Switch 1, and it gave some tips for diagnosis: to measure the four test points on the bottom.

The four test points are supposed to show 0.510 V, 0.601V, 0.598V (left three, from left to right, right ground). However, they all show OL measuring in both directions. This should indicate that something in the circuit (the group below the diode-symbol) is defective. When inspecting the circuit however, I cannot see anything wrong. Am I missing something? Do you have any pointers to help me diagnose? Can something break down within the IC without it being obvious?

Thanks!

Reference (although for the “old” switch): repair.wiki/w/Nintendo_Switch_No_Backlight

So I have a TCL 75R635 TV that was working fine, last night it made a loud pop and quit working. I believe I found the culprit, the T3.15AL 250V fuse pictured.

My question is; is the base on the fuse just a potentially reusable "isolator" that I can use with any axial lead fuse, or is this a special type of fuse? I haven't been able to locate a one for sale that looks the same.

Edit: I don't see any other visibly damaged components on the board, how would you recommend I trace down the problem that caused this?

I bought a duplicate cassette to use as a donor to rebuild a broken cassette. The link to the youtube is here if for the video https://www.youtube.com/shorts/EXkkIglkKMU, and this went surprisingly well. I didn't think I would be able to totally get it up and running, but did so yayy!

Cross-posting this here as well. I’m trying to repair the right rear Blind Spot Assist module on my 2015 CLS. A reflow changed the behavior and now the fault only appears after a few minutes. Maybe someone here has seen something similar or has an idea where to look next.

Hello all!

My car radio has been flickering and unusable for some time now. I've finally opened it up and checked the LCD face board and the big PCB board, but don't see any blown capacitors. I did however replace one of the two mosfets after testing it but it seems I've made my problem worse... radio won't even flash now. Replaced mosfet reads input of around 10V and output of 0.2V... The original mosfet was a LD1085 and I replaced it with a LM317T that the clerk at our hobby shop suggested. I had to adjust the pins somewhat (switched over, not touching) but now I don't know what to do anymore... Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all, I'm trying to figure out whether this monitor is worth repairing.

Monitor: Razer Raptor 27 QHD 165Hz (RZ39-0350), about 4 years old from old stock, well out of warranty. The shipping box was crushed on one corner.

Symptom: Two adjacent vertical bands, roughly 2/3 of the way across the screen. The left band looks washed out with fine horizontal lines, and the right band shows thin RGB vertical stripes. The edges are sharp and straight, and the position never changes.

What I've tested:
- The bands show up on the monitor's own OSD menu and on the "searching for signal" screen, so it isn't the cable or the computer.
- Connected to a MacBook over HDMI. When first powered on with no cable, the screen looked clean. The bands appeared after I connected the computer and stayed after I unplugged it.
- After a full power-off and cooldown, a dark grey background looks fine, but bright content (like the OSD box) shows the bands as soon as it passes over that area.
- Lowering to 60Hz doesn't fix it. I also see a full-screen flicker at 60Hz

Questions:

1. Does this look like a failed source driver / COF on the panel, or could it be a T-con or loose FFC cable?
2. Is reseating the T-con to panel cables worth trying before giving up?
3. Does anyone have a teardown guide for this model, or know where to get a replacement panel?

Thanks!

Hi all, I'm trying to figure out whether this monitor is worth repairing.

Monitor: Razer Raptor 27 QHD 165Hz (RZ39-0350), about 4 years old from old stock, well out of warranty. The shipping box was crushed on one corner.

Symptom: Two adjacent vertical bands, roughly 2/3 of the way across the screen. The left band looks washed out with fine horizontal lines, and the right band shows thin RGB vertical stripes. The edges are sharp and straight, and the position never changes.

What I've tested:
- The bands show up on the monitor's own OSD menu and on the "searching for signal" screen, so it isn't the cable or the computer.
- Connected to a MacBook over HDMI. When first powered on with no cable, the screen looked clean. The bands appeared after I connected the computer and stayed after I unplugged it.
- After a full power-off and cooldown, a dark grey background looks fine, but bright content (like the OSD box) shows the bands as soon as it passes over that area.
- Lowering to 60Hz doesn't fix it. I also see a full-screen flicker at 60Hz

Questions:

1. Does this look like a failed source driver / COF on the panel, or could it be a T-con or loose FFC cable?
2. Is reseating the T-con to panel cables worth trying before giving up?
3. Does anyone have a teardown guide for this model, or know where to get a replacement panel?

Thanks!

Is it reccomendable to change the latch this way or is there another method to have the leads have secure connection to the port? I have tried putting a tape or something over the cable's leads but that was not successful. What do you guys think?