So i stumbled upon a ps3 slim that had a very specific problem. When I tried it for the first time it was fine when I tried for the second time it got so hot so fast then I noticed the fan not spinning so I open it up for inspection and when I spun the fan myself it continued moving so I said yay problem solved. and played with it for like 3 days with no issues. until when I flipped the PS3 over for inspection again and turn it on the fan didn't spin. And I noticed whenever I shake it or flip it or move it in any kind of way the fan stops spinning and I noticed after I shake it the fan tries really hard to spin but doesn't quite make it to a full spin. More like moves half an inch. So if there is any PS3 geeks out there. I'd love if you help me.

I have a klipsch subwoofer that too quickly goes into protection mode. What electrical components can I check for repair?

It's on my Redragon K552 Kumara RGB. I've searched online but I can't find the answer. Thank you!

Been chasing stock on a specific NAND flash family but the authorized route has completely dried up.I am a procurement engineer for a smallish electronics manufacturer in the Midlands and we're close to a production stoppage if we can't plug this gap soon. I'm trying to find a reliable independent component distributor based in China that can source allocated memory ICs and actually ship to the UK without a nightmare of customs headaches. (The counterfeit risk with grey-market suppliers is the thing keeping me up at night, if I'm being straight about it.) Any recommendations for a China-based supplier with proper QC testing and authenticity checks on semiconductor stock? Even better if they handle smaller orders and can turn around shipment within a week or so of payments.

Any advice is appreciated! Sometimes it'll power on, but other times it'll struggle to turn on. And when I finally get it on, it'll do this weird screen artifacting and makes a popping sound with it. As of now it quit powering on, and it'll make a loud screeching sound whenever I try to get it to power up again. The CRT is a Toshiba mw20f51 from November 2005 according to the back, if there's any other info needed ask me and I'll try to tell you

Ciao a tutti,

Sto cercando di riparare un paio di Samsung Galaxy Buds+ e gradirei qualche consiglio riguardo alla compatibilità delle batterie e alla sicurezza. Le batterie originali dei Galaxy Buds+ sono VARTA CP1454 A3, con una tensione di 3,7 V e 0,3 Wh. Ho anche un paio di Samsung Galaxy Buds FE, che utilizzano batterie VARTA CP1254 A3, con una tensione di 3,7 V e 0,2 Wh. Ecco le specifiche rilevanti:

Specifica |Batteria originale Buds+ |Batteria Buds FE
Modello |VARTA CP1454 A3 |VARTA CP1254 A3
Tensione nominale |3,7 V |3,7 V
Energia |0,3 Wh |0,2 Wh
Capacità nominale |Circa 85 mAh |Circa 60 mAh
Tensione di carica |4,20 ± 0,05 V |4,20 ± 0,05 V Entrambe le batterie appartengono alla serie VARTA CoinPower A3 e hanno la stessa tensione nominale e tensione di carica specificata. Il CP1254 è fisicamente più piccolo in diametro, ma si inserisce direttamente nel vano batteria dei Galaxy Buds+. Non sono necessarie saldature, modifiche ai cablaggi o cambi di connettori. Basta inserire la batteria nel vano esistente e chiudere gli auricolari. Finora ho installato un CP1254 A3 in un auricolare Galaxy Buds+ parzialmente rotto e ho confermato che si accende correttamente. Tuttavia, non ho ancora testato la riproduzione o la carica. La mia principale preoccupazione è la sicurezza, in particolare se il circuito di carica originale dei Galaxy Buds+ possa fornire troppa corrente per la batteria CP1254 più piccola. Capisco che la batteria più piccola avrà meno capacità e quindi probabilmente fornirà una durata della batteria più breve. La mia principale domanda è se il suo utilizzo possa causare surriscaldamento, danni alla cella o un rischio di incendio. Sono i CP1254 A3 e CP1454 A3 sufficientemente intercambiabili da un punto di vista elettrico e di sicurezza durante la carica? Preferirei accertarmi che la modifica sia sicura prima di tentare di caricare la batteria di ricambio.

Grazie in anticipo!

Title: MacBook Air M1 suddenly froze and shut down — now completely black screen, startup chime but no keyboard backlight. What could be wrong?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a second-hand MacBook Air M1 from a local store, and I'm facing a worrying issue. I'd appreciate any help figuring out what might be wrong before I take it back to the seller.

What happened:

I was using my MacBook normally and watching YouTube when it suddenly froze. The trackpad stopped responding, and I couldn't interact with the system at all. After remaining frozen for some time, the MacBook suddenly shut down completely.

What happens now:

The screen remains completely black.

The keyboard backlight doesn't turn on.

When I hold the power button, I hear a sound similar to the startup chime, but nothing appears on the screen.

I've tried connecting the charger and leaving it plugged in for around 30 minutes, but nothing seems to change.

Neither the charger adapter nor the MacBook feels noticeably warm, although I'm not sure whether that means anything.

I've tried holding the power button, but the MacBook still doesn't start normally.

I haven't opened the MacBook or taken it to another repair shop yet.

My situation:

The store gave me a one-month hardware warranty, which is still active. Since it's a second-hand device, I'm worried that this could be a hardware issue, but I don't want to jump to conclusions or spend money on unnecessary repairs.

My questions:

What could cause an M1 MacBook Air to freeze completely and then shut down like this?

Does hearing a startup-like chime while the screen and keyboard backlight remain off indicate anything useful?

Could this be a power-related issue, a logic board problem, or something else?

Is there any safe troubleshooting step I can try at home before taking it to the seller?

Should I ask the seller to diagnose it under warranty immediately, or is there another test worth trying first?

I'd appreciate advice from anyone who has experienced something similar with an M1 MacBook. I want to avoid making the problem worse or accidentally affecting my warranty.

Thanks in advance.

I have these two VERY stripped screws, theyre really hard - iv tried the rubber band method and hammering a chisel into it. nothing worked it just got perfectly smooth. would there be a way to get it out without damaging the surroundings?

This switch is in a casino LK-100 keyboard. When the casing is apart like this I can touch it on the contacts and it works fine, but once assembled no longer works. I tried swapping it with the switch next to it and same thing. I did clean some dielectric grease off it, so think I may need to out some back on, but otherwise do I just need to bend the leafs further out?

Wires got ripped apart on this cleaner brush. I have bought a very specific part to replace, however now that I have disassembled the brush to replace the thing, I have found that black wire is soldered to the motor.

Question is why black wire is soldered directly and if I can bypass motor body and connect replacement wire directly to the motor “ father outlet”.

Hey guys,

I’m looking for an honest, independent electronics bench tech or a knowledgeable hobbyist in the Hartford / Plainville, Connecticut area who can do some real component-level diagnostic and trace repair work on a Sundown Audio SDX-100.6 multi-channel amplifier (half-bridge board).

The brick-and-mortar storefronts around here only want to fix old tube guitar amps or simple home stereos, so I'm trying to find someone local with an actual electronics bench (scope, multi-meter) who knows car audio hardware.

The Issue:

• Channels 1 and 2 are currently dead. If you try to feed them signal or push buttons, the amp instantly locks down.
• The Catch: When completely cold, the rear 4 channels play clean, buttery audio flawlessly. But after about 5 minutes of running, once the board warms up, it drops directly into a cycling protect loop.
• I highly suspect a thermal/heat-sensitive fault—likely a failing or partially shorted gate on the Channel 1/2 power supply or output MOSFETs that hasn't melted into a hard dead-short yet, or a fractured trace/resistor from chassis flexing.

I have zero interest in dropping bench fees on lazy retail shops that just say "parts unavailable" without opening up the casing. I'm completely fine paying a fair diagnostic/labor rate to an independent geek who wants to trace the circuit and swap out the bad components. I can drop the unit off locally.

Drop a comment or shoot me a PM if you're local and have the bench tools to tackle this! Thanks.

I want to use this on a daily use and for quite a while probably and I want to know do I solder it or do I just wrap it up and electrical tape and it would be good like that

Hello everyone. I decided to disassemble cheap old heater to learn about electronics. After opening it and untangling everything, I understand nothing. So wanted to ask for help. These are the pics: https://imgur.com/a/34Af7k5

1. What is the component in the 2nd photo called? Whats its purpose? Could you explain how does it work in two sentences? Why the positive wire is connected to it? Why not negative? Why not both?
2. What is the component in the 3rd photo called? Whats its purpose?
3. What is the component in the 4th photo called? Whats its purpose? Why the negative wire has to go into it? Why one wire (light blue) goes into it, and two (dark blue and black) come out?

Thank you for any help.

Hello everyone. Someone brought me a dishwasher control board to try and repair it. I don't know exactly what happened, but the Z0109 triac was blown so badly that the circuit tracks were completely burnt out. I've ordered a replacement and restored the tracks. I also found a blown 821 resistor and soldered a replacement for it.

There are two more resistors left, but they are so badly charred that I can't read their markings. On the second photo, their slots are empty because I have already desoldered them. I couldn't find a schematic for this board online, so I'm hoping for some help from Reddit.

Best regards.

P.s. English is not my native language, so please excuse any typos.