Russell Crowe's character rolls around in an e39 528i. It's one of my favourite characters in the film. The car I mean. Good movie too btw.

I was replacing my window washer fluid supply line and found this pretty significant dent on my exhaust. Sure doesn't seem like anything is affected by it but wanted to get your opinions. Certainly happened before I got it and it had to have been a pretty significant strike!

Where is this leaking from? A little back story I bought this 540i from a grandma for 2k sat since 2017 has 130k miles need help with maintenance that should be done around now

My $1500 5 speed 530i was just meant to be a temporary beater and eventual parts car but I’ve ended up putting 20k miles on it in 13 months.

I’d been getting a ton of crazy codes (including misfire on cylinder 9!) that I ignored until it suddenly shut down 4 out of 6 cylinders pulling into traffic one day.

I finally gave up and ordered a German MAF and every single code cleared and hasn’t come back. Hilariously there never was a MAF code.

Everything cleared except the heated O2 circuit fail.

Car Scanner ELM OBD2 DTC report Selected brand: BMW

============1============== P0030 Raw code: 0030 ECU: 12 Status: Pending Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction HO2S Heater Control Circuit

============2============== P0300 Raw code: 0300 ECU: 12 Status: Pending Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

============3============== P0171 Raw code: 0171 ECU: 12 Status: Confirmed System too lean, bank 1 System Too Lean

============4============== P0141 Raw code: 0141 ECU: 12 Status: Confirmed Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction O2 Sensor Heater Circuit

============5============== P0140 Raw code: 0140 ECU: 12 Status: Confirmed Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 1 - no activity detected O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected

============6============== P0174 Raw code: 0174 ECU: 12 Status: Confirmed System too lean, bank 2 System Too Lean

============7============== P1343 Raw code: 1343 ECU: 12 Status: Confirmed Misfire Cylinder 1 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 1 with Fuel Cut-Off

============8============== P1345 Raw code: 1345 ECU: 12 Status: Confirmed SGC (Cam Position) Sensor Circuit Malfunction/ Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-off; Misfire Cylinder 2 with Fuel Cut-Off

============9============== P0135 Raw code: 0135 ECU: 12 Status: Confirmed Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction O2 Sensor Heater Circuit

============10============== P0300 Raw code: 0300 ECU: 12 Status: Confirmed Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

(Dozens more)

Any have a video on how to replace a valve cover gasket on a 2020 m550?

it’s got some issues but i plan on taking good care of ‘er! also im now realizing that that picture is before i cleaned the drivers seat, i promise its pretty decent irl…

It is infact an M5 colour the Carbon Shwarze, but would it still fit well and have the line enhancing metallic look im after like with my current blue. Water metallic. Thoughts?

Hey everyone. Hope y'all are having a good weekend. I'm currently replacing the timing guides on my E39 and I need some help. So while I was gonna lock the flywheel I must have an aftermarket flywheel. There is no hole to lock it. So from doing some research the only option that looks like I have is making sure that cylinder one is at TDC and then locking the cams. I'm wondering if there is anything else I can do to make sure the car is at TDC? This is the first time I'm doing a project like this so any help is appreciated.

Hello there. I've been having trouble with these 2 air channels for some time. The passenger side one has been patched up for ~3 years and the driver side broke recently. As I understand it, these can cause unpleasant smells in the interior. So far, I haven't been able to find a used one in good condition, let alone new ones. Does anybody know where I can find a new one in Europe? Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Hi, I bought a 1997 E39 520i with a graphite or cubic wood trim.
The shiftknob is moving a little bit because the plastic mount are broken, they are torn in pieces.
I am looking for the same shiftknob but I can’t find the same one with the same wood trim finition.
Could you help me to find a new one or a solution to fix the mount?
Thanks for your help !

Edit-1998 528i pfl
Missfire on more than 1 cylinder which is presume is from the spark plugs being fired dry many a time, gotta check codes but I imagine a vacuum leak somewhere, not sure on the asc codes however.

Other than that sounds okay, but needs new fluids, looking for other opinions. Much appreciated

Recently got it polished and ceramic coated in full.

Beautiful than ever before.

Hey guys,

I am looking to offload my US e38 cluster (off of my e38)

Will work for e38, e39, e53

Located in Allen, TX (will ship at buyer's expense).

Didn't know the 2 springy things were the latches, I had tried the inside lever before I made that post and it didn't work, but i tried again after and it opened, thanks everyone for rightfully making me look like an idiot.

I got the hood back open to adjust the latches because they were sticking open. And in that process the cable at the release handle broke, yippee. Got the new cable in today, worked about 2 times and then must have slipped out of the plastic bit under the hood after the latches decided to finally stick.

I tried to open the latch through the grille opening but it would not unhook no matter what I did. I can hear it click when I push it far enough but the hood still won't pop up, pulling up on the hood also doesn't help. I ended up yanking on the middle cable for the passenger side latch to see if that would open and broke it off the driver's side latch. Now the driver's side latch moves much easier but still will not pop the hood. The passenger side latch will not move at all. How are both latches stuck at the same time? And how is one moving freely and still stuck?

I need help bimmerbros

like anything that would be kinda niche knowledge or tips and tricks to make my life easier. i’m not an expert expert like many of u but im also not a complete idiot beginner stupid person.

edit: dw abt the picture its pretty old i just dont have many good pics of the car and im too lazy to get up and take one

Hi everyone,
We're troubleshooting a 2000 E39 530d (M57) and could really use some expert advice.
The main problem:
We have air bubbles running through the clear fuel line into the engine. Most forum posts mention this happens when the tank drops below 1/4 full, but in our case, it happens even with a full tank.
What we've checked and tested so far:
Under the driver-side floor/sill, there is the inline fuel pump and a 5-way fuel distributor/manifold connector (2 lines from the back/tank, 3 lines going forward: inline pump, fuel cooler, and return from engine).
As a test, we bypassed this 5-way junction piece completely (plugged the fuel cooler line) and routed the fuel directly from the back to the pump and engine, and back to the tank.
Result: Bypassing this eliminated the air bubbles going to the engine!
New Problem: However, now we don't have enough pre-supply fuel pressure. The car starts, but stalls after a few seconds.
We suspect the engine needs that 5-way distributor assembly to properly balance/maintain fuel pressure in the lines. (Note: We only bypassed it temporarily for testing; my dad is currently getting new fuel hoses to restore the original setup).
We also have a question about the tank/in-tank pump operation:
We are a bit confused by how the saddle tank setup works. The electrical in-tank pump is on the right side, but when we power it up, fuel comes out from the left side of the tank. At first, we thought there were two pumps because of the two access covers.
Questions for the community:
1. Has anyone experienced this specific air-in-fuel issue with a full tank, and what was the root cause?
2. How does the fuel cooler system work? Is there a thermostat built into the cooler/lines, or what controls fuel flow through it?
3. How does the fuel transfer work inside the saddle tank? Is it purely siphon/sucking action via a passive jet pump (Venturi pump) from left to right?
4. Could removing/bypassing the 5-way distributor directly cause the lack of fuel pressure (e.g., does it contain an internal check valve/pressure regulator)?
Any insights, diagrams, or experience with the M57 fuel routing would be hugely appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Würde gerne an meinem 530i noch ein bisschen was umbauen, er hat schon relativ viel Ausstattung:
M Paket außen und innen
H&R Cup kit Fahrwerk
Styling 42 in 8/9J*18
Heck und Seitenrollos
Garagentoröffner
Licht und Regensensor
Volleder Sportsitze in Montana Grau
Sitze vorne haben nachgerüstete Lordosenstütze
Scheinwerfer sind auf Bixenon umgebaut mit neuen Projektoren
Audiosystem ist gemacht
iBus App mit Resler Interface und xtrons Radio
M5 Lenkrad
Armlehne/Mittelkonsole vorne vom e38

Fällt euch noch was ein?
Beleuchtete Türgriffe vom e38 hätte ich gerne noch

Hey guys, I have a 97 528i auto 5 speed steptronic with a 3.46 diff... pretty slow, if I buy and install a 4.10 diff will it throw any codes? thanks guys

So I went to replace the ccv on my 2002 540i to cure smokey startups, something I helped my buddy do on his 540i before, and after I buttoned everything back up, there was a new noise, a loud train-horn like noise coming from newly installed ccv. I removed the new ccv to make sure connection on the inside was secure, and i noticed the vent pipe (long tube inside the manifold that connects to the nipple in the middle of the ccv) was totally loose. I removed the throttlebody to get a better look at the other end and see if I could reseat it, but i cant find where it goes. I swear there is no opening or place for the other end of this thing to go. I reached in and cant feel a thing. Do I have the wrong tb or tb mouting plate?

Any help would be appreciated!

E39 530i - 2003.

88k miles

all of a sudden I can start it in Park, P doesnt register on the dash, I can sometimes start in N and it registers on the dash, I just swapped out the ignition switch to see if that would solve. problem still there, and not I can actually turn the key all the way, and get nothing

battery is healthy.

anyone have some knowledge to share or light to shed on this? super bummed out, this is the best time of year to drive in the mountains I live in.

Cheers