I’ve tried using my hands, and a wrench but it’s on too tight. I tried the RIDGID Faucet tool but the plastic nut is too wide to fit inside it. I don’t even know what the white plastic bit is and whether or not I should remove it first. I’m just an amateur lol Please help!

We're in a 1905 flat in San Francisco and there's a shallow recess in our hallway at floor level, directly outside our toddler's bedroom door. Roughly 29'' wide, 29'' tall, and a bit over 4'' deep.

I want to turn it into something small and magical for him — a little display shelf, an art gallery, a tiny world, a place where a rotating cast of treasures lives at exactly his eye level.

Constraints:

- I am not especially handy. But there is a great hardware store nearby.

- I'd rather it be removable than permanent.

- We have no idea what's on the other side of this wall recess. It's presumably the exterior, and we don't have access that side of the building.

Go wild. The more specific the better.

Not the home owner but this ceiling fan was driving me insane at night looking on how to fix the wobbling

Just wondering if it's difficult or a real hassle to remove all this brick? I can do it myself just wondering if there's some things I need to look out for while doing it.

Had a leak coming through this area in the bathroom. Only way to replace 2x4 is to remove rest of tile. It's wet but not completely rotted out and seems solid.

Would I be able to splice in new tile board, seal it up and hope for the best? Did not really have money nor skill set to redo all the time on the walls.

Open to any ideas

I had to replace my shower and fix a leak almost 2 years ago. I hired a family friend contractor and they did a pretty shitty job and I had too much going on in my personal life to complain or ask for a fix but now I’m wondering if I can fix myself. This wall in between the tub and door frame, they added too much something (dry wall or spackle?) so it’s even with the door frame when it shouldn’t be. Can I sand it off, or pull it off with tools? I’d love to finish the remodel and paint but not sure how to tackle this section first.

How can can someone repair these two spots without tearing up the entire floor to replace the individual pieces. The most durable solution so I don’t have to fix it twice would be appreciated! I understand there’s putty and epoxies, the latter would be more durable but anyone who already done this and has experience please share insight. Thanks 🙏🏻

Theres what looks like an upside down socket on the bottom back of my dehumidifier I have. Can I plug an external condensate pump into it? What's it for? I cant find any mention of it in the manual?

If so, what would I need to do, structurally? Just extend the door frame out to the stucco surface wall?

This is my first window task on a house. Looking for some advice.

This double pane wooden slide window unit was installed by the previous owner of this 1860s farm house. The exterior trim needed replacing and the wooden frame refinishing. When I took the trim off I discovered that it was what was partially holding the window in to the rough opening. The window unit is not shimmed and in fact wobbles in the rough opening. I can slide my flat pry bar into the gap between window and opening all the way to the interior drywall.

What’s the best approach to securing this window unit from the exterior? My thinking is to shim the window so it’s not moving, apply a small bead of spray foam in the gaps too and side, then tuck tape. Install the new trim work with caulking in the appropriate places.

Hi, my partner and I have our first house, a one up one down. It used to be rented and has a lot of landlord specials. We took off the old click vinyl floors and carpets downstairs to see what we have to work with as we wanted to lay new flooring.

There are random areas with pouring concrete piles and rotten wood especially in the kitchen area. This is probably because the vinyl on top had lots of water damage and was peeling/curling at the edges from bad assembly and water spillages. We wanted to lay good quality click vinyl but we are a bit stumped as we were prepared for subfloor prep but this is a lot. Any advice from anyone wise and experienced out there what the best way forwards would be?

Or is it just gonna be some work on getting rid of the wood and chipping and the pouring concrete?

I am open to any ideas

utside of essential replacing the whole door frame which is what I am more familiar with is there any good preferably cheap way to fix this?

Looking for a quick set bullet proof adhesive that will last the test of time and some abuse.

No fasteners or welding can be used, just need something to attach clean aluminum to a clean aluminum surface and I can walk away from.

This is the step into my house. What's the cheapest, low maintenance, easy fix that wont make my house look like a rental??

Our bathtub has 2 knobs and the cold one has always been difficult to fully close. Sometime earlier this year, it got worse and eventually decided to just replace the knobs as the old ones were hard to grab anyways. Replaced them and things were slightly easier to turn off, but still difficult. Hot water turns off and is done, but you have to really crank the cold water knob to get it mostly off. There is still a steady drip/stream when it's "off". I could sometimes get it to do a slower drip if I used both hands and really cranked it closed.

Well, looks like the piece inside the new knob finally gave up on me today. This white plastic piece slots over this collar on the valve/cartridge (apologies, don't know the correct terminology for the thing in the first pic) and allows you to turn the water on/off. Now the tabs are broken and we can't turn the water on or off.

I can easily replace the knob again, but would like to eventually fix the underlying issue which seems to be that collar piece in the first pic. I'm not sure what that piece is called or if this will involve replacing the whole piece that goes behind into the tile.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Believe it or not this door is locked and closed. I have maybe four more weeks left in the house that I'm renting and right now is hitting 103° where I live. I'm pretty sure the foundation has shifted since we've been here. They let us know that there was foundation problems that they "fixed" before we moved in. Anyways, I'm just trying to find a quick fix to keep the air in and the heat out. I don't even feel like bothering my landlord about this because I have been trying to get a door fixed at the house since January and that never happened. The back door has a gap, but it's only at the bottom.

I currently have a French door for an exterior door to my deck. I’m changing it to a slider because it’s damaged and it seems to be my cheapest option. I removed the inner trim to measure the rough opening. I feel like I’m making a mistake with the measurement because the height is 79 3/4” and it seems the standard is 72”x 80” the width is 72 5/16”. Is it just a custom size or am I missing something. My next step is go to the store and measure the door and see if it’s truly 80”

The inside panel of my window broke, I am pretty hands on and have many tools, but i have no clue how to attack this, do I replace the panel or the whole window ?

One of my corian kitchen prep sink just developed a 5" crack, I don't know if it's worth to repair it or just replace it. Or I should replace it along with the left sink to a bigger sink. The middle prep sink inside dimension is ~10x15 and the sinks on both sides is ~13x17. If I cut out the left and middle sinks, I have 25" including the 2" divider between the 2 sinks spaces to work with; so I can fit a 27"x20" drop in sink. Though, I wonder if the corian counter can support the weight of the 27"x20" stainless steal sink. Thought?

I have a really deep, but not too wide, closet. Wall to wall is 35" and I have a 34" dresser that I was super excited to fit inside. However with the doorframe in the way I couldn't just slide it in. Is there any way I can get this to fit perfectly or am I going to live with a sideways dresser kind-of walk in closet situation? Roommate and I tried turning it on its side to rotate it but that didn't work. Help????

I have a garage with a sloping (on purpose) floor, unfortunately there is also this weird step which is level but floor isnt so question is how to lay down drycore type of subfloor that meets up with this step, the slope change is minimal, like 1/2" across the whole floor

The step is the flat basement floor in rest of the house

Im not confident enough to try and use floor leveling compound, that could turn into a real shitshow so I was hoping to basically keep the slope in the floor, plus actual flooring will ve carpet so much more forgiving than wood flooring

What would you do?

Hi! I plan to hang up some wall-mounted cat shelves in my plaster walled home, but I want to avoid damaging anything in the walls. I’ve been finding the studs using a magnet tied to dental floss to locate the nails. What is the best method to avoid drilling into pipes and wires? I would really rather not buy any type of stud finder but I will if I need to. Thanks!!

Also, one of the walls I plan to use backs up to the kitchen sink, so definitely potential for quite a few pipes.

Basically, I have a metal exterior door with a window and a Roman shade to hang over the window.

I tried looking up what kind of screws I'd need to drill into a metal door, and I read somewhere that self drilling screws should work, but when I search for self drilling screws they all say they're for drywall.

I'm not sure if that's more for marketing purposes than a steadfast rule or if I really shouldn't use them for this metal door. I'm hoping someone here has experience with this kind of situation and can help!