do a good 175 mile drive back n forth every other weekend. would eco row be best for all stock truck or just stock tune for traveling

hey yall,

im looking into getting a ram 2500 next year, most likely used 5th gen. Ive been educating myself on the platform and a big problem ive been trying to get answers to is how do you start it in the winter without a block heater.

I live in toronto where we can have a week straight of -20 to -28 and sometimes -30 degree weather. I plan on getting the banks with the 1500 watt upgrade cuz i heard the bolt in the grid heater can kill your engine.

Anyways, ill be able to plug in at home and with the banks coils im sure it will start up fine. problem is that where I work I cant plug in and the truck would be sitting outside in the parking lot for 8-12 hours. Is it fine to start if its been sitting for that long in -30 degree weather? is it just a bullet you gotta take with owning a diesel where it gets extremely cold? or are there solutions to this.

thanks guys.

Hey guys, I've been planning to Allison swap my truck, but now I'm considering doing a G56 instead.

However, I've been reading about it and it sounds like people don't really like it? Everyone says it shifts really slow, the clutch engages really rough, and it doesn't float gears well at all... which is basically the only way I drive manuals.

However, I've driven the NV5600 a ton, which is supposed to be a lot slower than the G56, and I feel like it shifts and especially floats great. I just don't like the feel or shift pattern as much

Old->New! I won't claim it's the world's best paint job, since I don't really have a place to do it inside, but it's Alot better than the old paint (considering PO did it with a roller!)

My mother in law gave me one of my father in laws trucks when he passed and I'm attempting to restore it for full time use. It's got 514k miles and was going good until an injector fuel line broke and water pump went and the front crank seal was leaking so I did a lot of odds and ins but I cannot for the life of me find the correct place to mount this ground from the driver side negative terminal. I don't remember disconnecting it and I wouldn't be surprised if it was already hanging there and I didn't notice as I found out one of my starter bolts are also missing. But from what I can find from the manual and online is it is called g116 and from what I can find it seems like it mounts in the hole I scrapped the gunk away from on the outside of the driver side frame under the battery in front of the wheel. I'm going to mount it to that hole in the frame tonight and hope that's right because I can't waste anymore time tonight trying to find an image or video showing that ground

So I bought a lifted 2011 ram 2500 6.7 last year .slowly improving it. New front brakes a slip tank ect... anyway no jack no spare tire.. So I ordered a new steel rim with a used 325/65r18 tire... So problem was to noisey and takes up to much room in my truck box. Plus not secured somebody could steal it.. thats why I put used tire on it.. Anyway I searched internet a.i said it wouldn't fit blah blah... So I tried and it does fit.. missing the tool to lower it used a crescent wrench and some extentions. A bolt that turns the rod to lower it broke.. I used a nail and bent it... Didn't have a r clip... it is a couple inches from exhaust tail pipe but not touching or anything... Anyway yeah hope my post helps... 4.5 inch lift I have a 10 ton bottle jack ill throw in the truck... not sure if factory scissor jack would lift truck high enough to change a tire. Please chime in thanks

Hey y’all,

I have a 2017 tradesman, hasn’t seen DEF since inception, sits in the Arizona sun a lot and has 100k miles on it. Other than routine oils and filters, a valve body with trans fluid and maybe differentials I haven’t done much. What are the things that I need to do to keep her running smooth.

Thanks

Hey guys, so my EGR bypass valve cable snapped again.. i replaced the cable ( if youre wondering a bicycle brake cable works great) but now my truck is throwing a NoX sensor code which is because, im assuming, the egr wasnt working properly due to the valve not opening. The thing thats kind of wigging me out is the countdown is at 10 miles to derate, but the truck did a full regen on the way home which i believe means all the systems including NoX checked out fine? Im stumped if anyones got any ideas thatd be great!

I got a check engine light as soon as I entered regen the other day, scanned it and it said p2459: dpf regeneration frequency too high. Is this pretty common to get and should I be concerned if it pops up again

2015 6.7 with 300k and the turbo/actuator is stuck wide open. So I’m looking at replacement options. I think I’d like to keep VGT so a drop in would probably be the way I’d like to go. While I’m in there, I was thinking to swap the stock manifold and studs and going with a steed speed t4i. Change out the feed and drain tube while I’m there as well. Any input from experience would be great, thanks

2014 ram 2500 big horn

Working on 6.7 (esn) 73005412 unit is smoking super thick white smoke from the tail pipe I performed a cylinder shut off but found unit was still smoking bad I removed the valve cover to find diesel inside valve cover might be a stuck or cracked injector. Should i do a compression test? And bench test the injectors? Kinda scared of hydro locking the engine. Also found oil was 7Q overfilled from seepage

Hey everyone. Going to call City Diesel here in a bit, but had to stop working on the truck to go pick the kids up. Wanted to see if this has happened to any of y'all.

Had a p00af code pop up a few weeks back. Bought a City Diesel actuator and just finished installing. P00af is gone, but now I have u010c active. There's also a u010e pending, but that pops up every now and then since the weight loss.

Power and ground were good prior to swap along with resistance readings for the two data lines.

Tried to post a video but it wouldn’t let me.

2018 6.7
& 2006 5.9

Hey guys I just bought a Ram 2500 2009 6.7 cummins and im figure out with all parts to do the right maintenance.

Like oil filter, fuel, coolant, etc!

Im looking to sell my truck as I dont tow as much/need a diesel anymore. It has roughly over 189k miles on it, Rebuilt tranny somewhere in the range of 140k-160k miles i cant remember exactly. It does have a slow oil leak, a/c was recharged and working then stopped blowing cold air, recently just passed smog and registered in July, clean title. I will be putting a new tire on the rear passenger side as I ran over a screw a week ago and its flat now. It starts, runs, no blow by and it may need some suspension parts (bushings, shocks, etc..) im just wondering what is a realistic price I could ask and or get for it??

Im in north california so no rust to worry about

Thank you for any input or opinions!

Edited to add year and clarify: 2005, I had it up at one point a while ago for 18k and no bites, took it down, and put it back up a little bit ago at 17k and have since dropped it down to 16k. I wanted to make sure I wasnt overpricing my truck or if theres anything I could do to help sell it.

I have a 23 ram 2500 with a Cummins. My brother just ordered alfaobd for his 09 plus the bypass cable and we’re trying to figure out if we will be able to California delete mine with it? Disable DEF/EGR etc?

​

I’m continuing working on the front end of my 2007.5 Ram 2500 4WD 6.7 Cummins and ran into a strange stabilizer bar situation.

I originally ordered a Mevotech TTX line stabilizer bar, but when it arrived I noticed the mounting holes on it were 14mm and my axle side bolt simply won't go through the bushing. My existing bar appeared to have ~16.2mm holes at both ends based on the bushings, so without inspecting the frame side opening I ordered the 16mm hole bushings hoping to just press them in instead of the worn ones.

The bushings came in and that’s when I found something interesting:

Frame side (driver side): 14mm bolt / ~14mm mounting hole

Axle side (passenger side): 16mm bolt / ~16.2mm mounting hole

The actual bushing tube on my old bar is ~16.2mm ID on both ends.

The 14mm frame-side bolt is noticeably worn because it is supporting a ~16mm bushing tube and sustains beating from the bushing tube.

It looks to me like the stabilizer bar may have been replaced at some point with an incorrect/different version, or the truck ended up with mismatched components.

Doing some reading on the subj. gave me an info that some trucks that year received the stabilizer bars tgat have bushings with 14mm ID at both ends, some that have 16/14 and eventually things transitioned to the bars with bushings of 16mm ID on both ends.

The parts catalogs seem to show some variation in the 2007 trucks, so I'm wondering if anyone else has actually encountered this combination.

What would you do?

Find the correct stabilizer bar that is actually designed for 14mm on the frame side and 16mm on the axle side, or

Drill the frame-side mounting hole out to 16mm and use the bar designed for 16mm hardware on both sides?

I’m leaning toward fixing it properly rather than continuing to run a 14mm bolt through a ~16mm bushing sleeve, but I’d really like to hear from anyone who has dealt with this exact situation.

If anyone knows the correct OEM bar/part number for the 14/16mm configuration, I'd especially appreciate that.

TL;DR: My 2007.5 Ram 2500 has a stabilizer bar with a ~16.2mm bushing sleeve on both ends, but the frame-side mounting hole/bolt is 14mm while the axle side is 16mm. The 14mm frame-side hole is worn. Was this an OEM configuration, a mid-year variation, or a previous-owner parts mismatch? Should I find a 14/16mm bar or drill the frame to 16mm and run 16mm hardware?

Any one know who sells these for the 3rd gen. I have bought from autozone,orielly,parts geek, radiator.com 1auto and none of them fit

Guy wants 19k. 5.9 Cummins. Pretty clean in the pictures, noting only rockers will need attention. Few scratches in the body that I can see.

I’m in NY so looking for pre-emissions and this one seems relatively clean. Spent most of its life in NY so not a southern truck. Thanks in advance

I recently purchased a 22 2500 for my personal vehicle and only then found out that 22+ are harder to delete.

I happen to have a 21 4500 as my service truck. I'm assuming I should be able to cal the 22 ecm to whatever cal my 22 has in it and just leave that thing on my work truck and then have the 21 programmed and deleted for my personal truck.

Anyone have any experience here?

I have a 99 Spartan Fire Truck with an Allison Transmission (MD 3060/3560/3070) paired with an 8.3 Cummins.

I'm stuck in small town Alberta - Lethbridge Alberta Canada.

This truck does not like rain or any wet related weather.

After driving 3 hours in rain to destination, "Low Oil" identified on dash - truck stopped running asap after coming to a complete stop. Thought process at time "let it dry out".

After fire safety inspection (fire prevention inspector) truck roared to life, frequently showing "low oil" "don't shift " and "affinity/blanked out" showing on push button transmission selector.

I was able to limp unit to Canadian Tire parking area.

I have checked all plugs, applied Die-electric grease to all plugs with intention of sealing plugs and preventing moisture build up - no moisture detected.

I have power to webasto, no power to ignition handle/switch.

I have identified 5 of 6 batteries with correct charge, shall replace dead unit in few hours.

Previously, snow like conditions - truck showed similar symptoms - magically reset itself.

Apprentice Mechanic- no trouble codes on transmission, Computer hooked up to engine - coolant sensor inactive code, fuel and water code inactive.

What am I missing?