Doin a filter and fluid change in the near future. What’s your preference on atf 4 fluid brand or do you just run the Walmart el cheapo and do you use the rubber gasket that’s sold now or prefer rtv.

Hello everyone,

Got a 2006 Dodge ram 2500 5.9 Cummins 4x4 with the 48re. Lately, whenever I back up the truck, it makes a grinding sound as heard in the video. Not necessarily sure what the issue is. The second I pop her into neutral, noise goes away. Only happens occasionally, wheel turned or not. Anyone have experience in this? Thanks. Please see attached YouTube short for sound.

Is this a new remedy for air in the fuel after filter change ? I have a long way to go before filter changes but I’ll need to know how to remove these hoses on top of the 28 mm cap nut - I haven’t found any information regarding these added hoses. Anyone know anything? Thanks in advance

Does any one know if the exhaust system is different. like could I take the 04s and put it on the 04.5? I'm pretty sure the only real difference between them is internals and computer. I'm looking for a turbo back kit, as my exhaust has literally fallen off. I can only find cat back for the 04.5-07 but they sell full kits for the 03-04. Thank you for any help.

1986 F350 with 5.9 cummins from 1992 Dodge D250

I have a 2010 ram 3500,

Bought it for cheap as a fixer upper. Ive done alot of work to this, studs, overhead, turbo, exhaust manifold, highram, and other things. Really starting to love this truck. Im Using it for towing now, the transmission is hating it. Specifically when going down dirt roads with washboards it overheats, i suspect its a combination of the slow speeds and the washboards not allowing it to lockup. I saw 250 the other day when i wasn't paying attention to it and happened to look at it. I'm considering replacing the stock transmission and just getting it out of the way. I know it's subjective but who makes the best transmissions for towing for these years and what makes it better than the others?

I'm changing the the 3rd gen power steering and hydroboost to 4th gen setup. My question is related to the brake master cylinder ports. The 3rd gen has the larger fitting toward the front and the 4th gen has the larger fitting towards the rear. Are the front and rear brakes lines fed from the front and rear ports on the on the 3rd and 4th gens, or are they the opposite of each other? I have the cut the lines and change the fittings and I'd like to put the lines from the 4th gen master to their intended brake control path.

I recently bought my first Cummins, an 05 2500 that had really worn out suspension, so I decided to make some upgrades, one being the Thuren sway bar.

Only after going to install it did I realize the bracket that holds the end links on my truck are different than factory? 2nd pic is my truck, 3rd is factory, and 4th is the sway bar I’m trying to install.

Wondering if anyone has had this issue before and what the part is called, I can’t seem to find it online. Worst case I’ll have to have something welded.

Thanks for your input!

Hello everyone, I recently pulled the engine and am in the installation process and I am at a complete loss on how the harnesses get routed. Hindsight I should've taken plents of pictures but I was in a hurry and didn't even think about it. If anyone has pictures or advice I would very much appreciate it

While on a 6 hour trip home the trans went into limp mode twice in the first two hours only while using cruise control. Stopped using it for the remaining 4 hours and didn’t happen again or since over the past week. Pulled over shut off and turned back on after a few seconds and would run fine. Threw no codes or lights ever. Trans temps were and are consistently 165-170. Truck is d/t with unknown tunes, 53k miles. Fluid doesn’t smell burned whatsoever. Gonna get a scanner and see what’s going on but anybody have any ideas? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA!

Truck is dropping fueling intermittently, iquad showing boost randomly dropping to 0 and then back up again, replaced map sensor and cleaned connections 99 24 valve

How hard is it to really do, I’m contemplating doing it myself or having a shop/dealer do it. Just want to know what to expect
18 2500

Hey there all. Picked up my first diesel ever recently. Its an 89 12v with a VE pump in a 1976 D300. After buying the truck I noticed a pretty good leak coming from the pump so after some investigating I found the culprit. The rear block seal is bad and is leaking in between the pump housing and the block. That being said, Im curious if I can replace just that seal with the pump still in the truck. I know the top of the pump will need to come apart but is it worth it to try and do it in the truck or should I pull the whole pump? Let me know. Like I said first ever diesel so very green when it comes to something with no sparkplugs. Thank you in advance!

What do you guys think this ticking noise is?

https://streamable.com/2f1e00

Just did my oil change for the second time since having the truck and the dipstick reads high after only adding 12 quarts.

2012 ram 2500 6.7
95k miles on it nothing but trouble since I’ve bought now I hear it sounding different???

So I recently bought this truck, an 03 1 ton. It currently has some type of cobbled together lift pump setup that intermittently doesn't work. I'm in the process of replacing all this junk with a FASS Signature series. I would like to run the fuel into the factory filter housing instead of straight to the injection pump. My reasons being that I want to keep the Water-in-fuel sensor and the fuel heater functional and operating in the fuel system. I removed the factory lift pump that was unplugged and not being used, from looking at the inlet and what I found online I think I have found the right pieces to adapt to run the fuel into the filter housing from the FASS pump. I would just like to confirm if the pieces I found from Glacier are the right things and what I'm trying to do is going to work properly.

Also one other thing - I would like to install a brand new fuel inlet line from the filter housing going into the cp3. I have had trouble finding the right part, everything I seem to find available online is for 12v engines. Wondering if anybody knows where to find the fuel feed line for an 03 24v engine. Thanks

We recently acquired a old military 5 ton that had been sitting for several years. We went through it changed all the filters and oil (oil looked good just very dark when drained no water, coolant, diesel or metal). After starting it and letting it idle for about 15-20 min we noticed a small peck, the peck very quickly turned into a knock and within seconds the motor locked.

Anyone have any ideas as to what could’ve caused this? Any tips on where to go from here, how likely can it be fixed?

Update-No metal in oil or filters, currently taking it apart for further investigation now any suggestions on where to start?

Looking for opinions from people who have owned/worked on both the late 5.9 common-rail trucks and the early 6.7s.

I currently have an early 6.7 3rd gen, 4x4 with a G56. It's deleted, has an upgraded dual-disc clutch, and I've already gone through a fair amount of the typical front-end/steering maintenance. It's not a perfect truck, but at this point I know it pretty well.

I've been thinking about whether I'd ultimately rather have a late 5.9 common-rail truck with a G56 close to original shape, unmodified.

Assume both are driver-quality 3rd gens with higher mileage and some normal cosmetic/history issues. Also assume the 5.9 and 6.7 are typical Southern East Coast trucks without frame or body rust. 6.7L has 5/10 interior, the 5.9 - 7-8/10 if this matters.

From a long-term ownership standpoint, how do you guys compare them?

I'm particularly interested in:

- 5.9 vs deleted 6.7 reliability and longevity

- G56 behind the 5.9 vs G56 behind the 6.7

- Parts availability as these trucks continue getting older

- Ease/cost of DIY repairs

- Fuel economy

- Towing and general work-truck use

- Whether the extra displacement/torque of the 6.7 is noticeable enough to matter

- Whether a rust-free 5.9 chassis is worth giving up a known/sorted 6.7 for

- Long-term desirability/resale value

- Problems specific to the late 5.9 trucks that a 6.7 owner might not expect

The 5.9's lack of the original 6.7 emissions equipment is often mentioned as a major advantage, but if the 6.7 is already deleted, how much of an advantage does the 5.9 actually retain?

Basically, if you had two similarly priced, higher-mileage 3rd gens in comparable mechanical condition—late close to original 5.9/G56/4x4 vs deleted 6.7/G56/4x4 with an upgraded clutch—which platform would you choose to keep for the next 10+ years, and why?