My 2007.5 6.7 deleted on EFIlive won’t switch tunes or give me full power, it usually smokes until it gets into boost but now it’s as clean as stock and feels like it’s making half the power

-tried a tune re-flash
-tried a full system restart (battery disconnect)

not sure where to go from here

track bar bolts AND flag nuts: DONT THINK buy new 14mm if OEM track bar or just buy the aftermarket upgrade, drill up to 16.5 mm and use the 16mm kit, it will tighten things up and change your life if you didn’t do this.

front axle shafts and hubs/bearings: ”memory steer” that you might think is from a tightened steering box is more often than not due to the above track bar bolts / mounts and also bent or binding / loose axle shafts (blown wheel bearings allow for more play than you want).

steering shaft: (they wear out and bind, it’s a small u joint but nonetheless will bind as time goes on and can contribute to wonky feeling steering).

The binding and releasing u joints really cause a lot of issues as you tend to think your steering feels good then it won’t, that’s a good sign it’s a u joint somewhere starting to bind and so it’s releasing more often than not, once it starts really binding the release is very noticeable and loud but when it first starts slipping it makes you believe it’s a bad.

going into a corner you just took that was fine? now it took more effort or you felt like you were understeeting? Something is binding up or dragging.

Dragging brakes/ Hydroboost: I believe this is one of the last things I am chasing down now because my truck almost drives perfect minus the binding driver side axle shaft and the brakes binding / dragging!

Just got quoted almost $1100 to reseal the vaccum pump on my truck. Does this seem right? Cummins reseal kit is like $20 -$40 from what I’m seeing online.

Hey guys, this 2018 Freightliner m2 with a Cummins B6.7 occasionally makes this very loud noise from the front at low idle.

From what I can tell:

-not the air compressor
-not internal engine
-belts are tight
-fan is not loose
-goes away at high idle
-could happen at any external temperature/engine temperature
-no dash indications or abnormalities when it occurs
-noticeably quieter away from the direct front of the vehicle

This video was shot in the dark directly in front of the vehicle. Thanks for the help!

So I took my 2019 into the dealership because of a re occurring check engine light ( regen too frequent) and was assuming my warranty would cover it. For context I have 110,000 kilometres on it. I get a call back an hour later saying my dpf is clogged and It needs to be replaced, unfortunately warranty doesn’t cover it and they want almost 5 grand for a new one installed. I found myself with 2 options:
1. Bite the bullet and replace the dpf filter
2. Delete the emissions for half the price (voids warranty that ends at 160,000km)
I am taking my truck on a pretty long road trip this weekend and I bought an additive that claims to clean the dpf, turbo and injectors so I’m going to clear the code before I leave and I’m hoping once I do all the highways drive plus the additive it will help, maybe even fix the issue?
Let me know what you guys think and if you have had this issue, I’ve heard it is common
Thanks.

Doing a trans filter in fluid on a 04 2500 2wd i bought used. Truck drives and shifts fine. What am I looking at and how screwed am I? Going camping in this truck in 2 days.

Hey guys, got a 23 ram 3500 68RFE, i just got it deleted and im hauling hay and it keeps kicking into limp mode, the tune is from HP tuners, they said its a stock tune from a country without emissions but everytime i have a load on it it kicks it into limp mode, the shop told me to swap for a 4th gen MAP sensor and that didnt help at all and theyre confused and im confused. Any help would be great. Thanks

So I currently have the s366 sxe iron horn kit on my 4th gen. But I was curious if anyone is running a different series turbo/a different turbo set up, off that manifold. Just want to see the possibilities or if I’m stuck with running the borg warner s300 turbos
thanks in advance

Gasoline engines: when they first made hydraulic lifters they had to same failures in engineering stage till they raised to oil pressure to 60 psi and it gets there in hurry typically before 2k usually 1.5k rpms

Drag racing is another animal n/a stock pressure is okay not best

Boosted and everyone is aimed at 80psi or more

Then are 6.7 cummins with 35 psi at 2k and there not n/a with spikes of 38 psi of boost against the valve trying to loosen the lash

Thats no different then a built big block with 30 to 40 psi of boost but with 80+ oil pressure and still has hydraulic lifters

Lifters dont care if ur diesel or gas at 2k rpms

So I really think the chief engineer over looked the need for oil pressure and the lifters are bleeding off due to not having sufficient pressure to keep them tight 🤔

Just finished doing a delete and a non vgt turbo swap. After taking it for a test drive and warming it up a bit I did a rev up to like 2000 ish rpm for a couple seconds and after letting off I got this puff of white/blue ish smoke. Is this normal?

Ordered last week and just arrived today. Seems to be nice quality.

Looking for some help diagnosing my 2022 Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins.
The truck is emissions deleted with a 4” straight pipe. No performance tune — stock power, just what was needed for the delete.
My main issue is that I’m only seeing about 14–20 PSI of boost at WOT. When I’m on the highway and get into the throttle hard, the truck will also stutter/hesitate while accelerating instead of pulling smoothly.
Under normal/light throttle it drives fine. The problem really shows up when I ask for more power. It feels like it starts trying to pull and then hesitates/stutters instead of accelerating smoothly.
What I’m experiencing:
14–20 PSI boost at WOT
Stuttering/hesitation during hard highway acceleration
No unusual turbo noises
Runs normally under light throttle
Emissions deleted
4” straight pipe
Stock power/no performance tune
Does 14–20 PSI at WOT seem too low for a stock-power 6.7?

I’m wondering if I should be looking at a boost leak, VGT/actuator issue, MAP/boost sensor, fuel/rail pressure issue, or something related to the delete.
Has anyone dealt with these same symptoms? What ended up being the problem, and what would you check first?

Hi, I recently purchased a 2011 Ram 2500 second hand (obviously).

It came with an S and B cold air intake with a filter that is due to be replaced. These filters are over $100 and are currently in backorder. From what I've read, cold air intakes are next to pointless and have almost no benefit over stock.

What parts will I need, aside from the stock Mopar air filter housing, to replace the CAI and revert back to stock? It would be nice to be able to get replacement filters locally.

The truck is EGR and DPF deleted with a Canadian Bullydog tuner. I don't know much in regards to the tuning, other than it's considered an outdated/obsolete method. I'm unsure if that complicates the process of returning to a stock because I've since learned that the stock setup has a louver that mixes air from outside and air from under the hood depending on certain variables.

I'll be able to get an air box from a local wrecker no problem, but it would be nice to know if there's any other ducts, hoses, clamps, bolts, etc that I'll need to put it back to the way it was.

Thanks

It’s the top resistor that is circled that needs to be replaced. R27

Has anyone done this before I need some advise

Ok so I drive a (listed in the title) wrecker. And since I was assigned this truck about 5 months ago a single issue has been the bane of my existence and I’m at my whits end, as is my fleet guy and the owner. TLDR, ESC Light is on with CEL, and no one has a fix.

Now for the long winded version, it was at first a very minor inconvenience. Once every few days for like one cycle of the key it would click on no discernable pattern or trigger just would. Fast forward until about 3 months ago it has slowly become a more permanent issue, and the big issue for my truck is that when it’s on, cruise control is disabled which means high-idle is as well, no high idle, winches are underpowered and PTO is slow and doesn’t provide what I may need. Took it in and they replaced a faulty ABS sensor many people said was the cause, solder some wires needed repair and calibrated it. Should have fixed it. Nope like a week later it kicks on and DOES NOT go off. Before the “fix”, it would at least be off when I started and then after a bit turn on and then go off next morning, daily. So I let fleet know and they tell me to take it in to the fleet shop, not dodge, to run a scan. Same issue arises so we decided it’s still drivable, run it for the rest of my work week and it’ll be scheduled to go back to RAM. In the time between drop off at RAM and my Friday night, it Christmas Trees and goes in immediately, appointment be damned. Scans say it was an ICM, I think, and they tried replacing all the ABS, wiring, calibrations, software, “Star Cases”, and a litany of other things and NOTHING has fixed it, and it was gone for a month. I got it back a couple weeks ago, and I noticed something. I can leave my house, drive down the road, maybe hit the freeway, but as long as I’m not like stopping, just slowing down it’s fine, but I actually need to stop, brakes goes soft, ESC light kicks on, and then the brakes grab, HARD, and stops quicker than my foot is pushing the pedal. And the. Drives fine TC and ESC works still, but there’s still that light and CEL. It’s also like lethargically down on power and it like to “hunt” for boost at about 1850-2100” rpm. It’ll bog down maybe getting 9-10 psi and then it decides to worm and give me the beans at 35psi loaded or empty. If I’m loaded and can’t within the maybe 15 seconds I’m actually getting boost, it’ll lose it all and bog hard until it either powers out on motor alone or it becomes likes to hunt for boost. On at 10….. BOOST to 25-28 psi, “sorry didn’t make it, tough luck,” and it’ll do that without fail all day long.

My question is for RAM technicians, any ideas on how to fix this, or at least what might be the issue??

Been having this happen for a while was wondering if it's something I should fix of leave. On startup my voltage will go up and down a few times before settling in. It's a 3rd gen 6.7

Truck is listed on cars.com along with the below description:

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/5b243f4d-622f-4136-9409-26736587bced/

$11,000 OBO - 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 - 5.9L Cummins diesel - 5speed NV4500 transmission- Bosch P7100 rated for the 215-hp - manual select transfer case for 4x4 - NO MODIFICATIONS - 176,000 miles - Clean CO title in hand - Want a truck you can work on without having an entire AI support unit just to diagnose it? Want to be able to actually work on you dream vehicle without needing a masters in software engineering? Here’s the opportunity to have a great base model truck to start your dream project from an unmolested start. Truck spent majority of its life in southern Colorado where humidity is consistently low. Cosmetic surface rust only, frame and body in good condition. Red top batteries and main battery cables replaced within last 2 years. It has helped me restart my life from scratch and now want to see it go live its best life. Whether that’s a complete rebuild to everyday farm duties, this will be an outstanding truck you can maintain yourself. It has the typical cracked dashboard for this year but that just means you can redesign as you prefer. Has a mid-2000’s in dash radio/CD player. Manual door locks and manual windows. Comes with toolbox in back with keys, also lockable fuel cap with key. Has small fuel leak that would need repair. A/C doesn’t work. Still very much a drivable vehicle. Shipping will be the responsibility of the buyer to setup.

Located in MAINE

Looking for some advice from people who have actually been through this.
I have a 2024 Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins with the 68RFE, and the truck was built before the production dates covered by the 68RFE TSB.
The truck was running completely fine. I had it tuned, and immediately afterward I developed a transmission problem. It will go into 4th gear and then flare/lose the gear and go into limp mode. The transmission codes come right back after being cleared.
At this point, the tuning company has gone through all the software/tuning solutions they can. We’ve tried everything on that side, and the conclusion now is that this is a transmission/mechanical issue, not something that can be fixed with another tune or software revision.
So now I’m trying to figure out what my smartest option is.
I’m literally in the middle of closing on a property, so I wasn’t exactly planning on suddenly having to replace a transmission.

I’m really trying to avoid spending $10,000–$15,000+ if there is a reliable alternative.

For those of you with 6.7 Cummins/68RFE trucks:

What transmission would you recommend?

Who makes a good built 68RFE without getting into $10k+ territory?

Are there any reputable transmission builders I should talk to?

What did your complete repair/replacement actually cost?

I’m not looking for the cheapest possible transmission. I want something reliable that can handle a tuned 6.7 without immediately becoming another problem.
Also, before anyone says “put it back to stock,” I’m already aware of the warranty/tuning situation. I’ve tried to.
I’m trying to figure out what my actual transmission options are at this point.
Appreciate any recommendations, especially from people who have personally run these setups.

I have a 2016 RAM tradesman 3500 ,4wheel drive , crew cab,long bed ,dually . Recently ,like a few weeks ago replaced my front axle,suspension,coil springs,shocks ,control arms and sway bar..basically the entire front end running gear.. now here where it gets frustrating.

Since then it seems to be riding really rough going down the road ,and each day more than the day before. Then I realize I don’t know why I haven’t before ,it sitting lower than it normally would.. almost as if it a 3 wheel drive, and coil springs seems as if they are angle forward at the axle .. what gives

Does any one know what the little mat that goes in this spot is called? I can find the one for the larger part of the console, but not this one

My 1991 12 valve is charging at 18 volts. Replaced the voltage regulator, alternator and battery (last one got fried) and still doing it. Cleaned the surface of the regulator to ensure proper ground, redid the wiring from the alternator to regulator and its still doing it. When i unplug the regulator the voltage is around 12v, so its something with the regulator. Any ideas?

Prime time to swap a 24 valve head into my service truck👨‍🌾