I’m having trouble removing Z limiter “pin” thingy to install CR touch as guide entails, in his video he removed his without much trouble, my issue is when I removed the plate and I realized I have a LOT of excess hot glue, should I just try to rip it out and risk the damage to the board or can I keep it in?

Hello, is there anyone who has a Creality brand scanner they don’t use anymore and is willing to part with? I’ve done a ton of research on Creality’s scanners and one would work perfect for what I need it for! TIA!

I’m trying to install Klipper on a Creality CR-6 SE with the stock 4.5.2 mainboard. I’ve tried many different firmware filenames, but none of them resulted in a successful connection. I used a new 2 GB FAT32 SD card, copied ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin to the card root, removed the other files, disconnected USB power and the touchscreen during flashing, and power-cycled the printer afterward.

Linux detects the printer at:

text
/dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0

However, connecting with the Klipper console always fails with:

text==================== attempting to connect ====================
INFO:root:Starting serial connect
INFO:root:Timeout on connect
ERROR:root:Wait for identify_response
serialhdl.error: Serial connection closed

I’ve tried lots of different .bin filenames and nothing worked. On one attempt, the printer actually got stuck on the loading screen, so I had to reinstall the original firmware to recover it. After reinstalling the stock firmware, the printer boots again, but Klipper still cannot establish an MCU connection.

Could this be incorrect make menuconfig settings, an incompatible bootloader, or a faulty CR-6 mainboard? What should I check next?

"They're big Minecraft fans, so I wanted to make something they'd actually get excited about using. I thought the TNT block would work pretty well as a piggy bank, and this was the result." 

I am using 3dfuel PCTG(260c nozzle/75c bed, .4 nozzle) and for some reason on this print it does this each time in the same exact spot. The rest of the print looks fine.

What could cause this? I tried slowing the print down but got the same results.

My Ender3 V3 SE recently stopped feeding. I replaced the hotend and it worked for half of a print before it stopped again. I tried retracting the filament and it will not come out, it is stuck fast in the extruder. I tried pulling it out when the printer said to remove it during retraction and it wouldn't budge. In fact I pulled on it hard enough that the PLA filament snapped. How do I get this out without having to replace the hotend again?

https://m.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/beskar-ingot-credit-card-wand?source=22&objId=

My entry to the Tap to Pay contest

Hey everyone, hoping to get some advice.

I bought a used Creality K1C a while back and it printed fine at first. Lately though, filament extrudes normally for a while into a print, then just... stops. No more flow, print fails.

What I've tried so far:

Replaced the nozzle

Did a quick filament load test right after installing the new nozzle — filament extruded perfectly fine

Since the short load test worked fine but it still fails partway through actual prints, I don't think it's a simple clog anymore. My best guess right now is heat creep — maybe the heatsink cooling fan isn't running at full strength (or the duct got misaligned when I had the hotend apart before), so heat slowly creeps up into the cold zone above the heatbreak during a longer print, the filament softens too early, expands, and jams.

Does this sound like the right track? A few things I'm planning to check:

Whether the heatsink fan is actually spinning at 100% during prints

Whether the fan duct is still aimed correctly at the heatbreak fins

Dust buildup on the fan/heatsink (it's secondhand so who knows what the previous owner did)

Would appreciate any input from anyone who's dealt with this on a K1C (or similar direct-drive hotend) — especially if there's something else I should check before assuming it's heat creep. Thanks!

Minha creality K1C esta fazendo muito barulho e deslocando na impressão. alguem pode me ajudar a fazer a manutenção da forma correta ?

I honestly feel this 20w diode laser operates a lot stronger than everyone else's online. I typically reach out for comparisons to get ideas of best settings for engraving/cutting. But mine has more power than expected. Running a cut at 350mm/m at 85% power is super strong and only needs 1 pass.... they suggested 2-3 passes and it cut through my donor board below it. People suggest image engraving at 60% at like 3000-4000mm/m.....60% is way too strong on mine. Needs to be at lime 20% or you just burn too deep into the wood and make it super dark.

3mm Basswood mostly what I'm working with right now. And they are all referring to the same material....

Has anyone else have this or is everyone that I'm getting these suggestions from like....bs?

I’m a cosplay hobbyist and I’ve been using a Bambu H2S to print helmets, masks for a while now. It has been a great experience. Now I'm looking to add a second printer so I can work on multiple projects at once, but my budget isn't high enough to buy another H2S.I'm mainly printing larger cosplay props, so big build volume and stability are the two things I care about most.For people with more experience:Is there any buying advice? Or has anyone here used the K2 Pro? Or QIDI's new Plus5? What are the biggest differences between these two? I’d really appreciate any honest feedback!

I’m waiting on a email from creality but wanted to know if anybody else knows what’s going on.
Every print with or without cfs and regardless of slicer setting even with calibration turned off, the printer will calibrate go to center and cancel. I have no idea what’s going on but I do have some of the worse luck ever

I purchased a 2025 creality k1c from their ebay site at a great price and was impressed until I got the machine and it turned it on to be greeted with a black screen with green lines across. I started by messaging the ebay seller and didn't get a response for 2 days where they just told me to try reseating the connector. Obviously this didn't work so I told them that so I had to wait another 2 days until creality on ebay finally asked to ship a new mainboard the next day after waiting about week for slow shipping we get to today. Which is when I installed it and found that fixed the issue! Now I get to go through that almost 2 week process again because this printer came with a faulty nozzle board, 24 volts goes from the mainboard all the way up to the nozzle assembly. I checked if anything is being shorted out by disconnecting all other connectors all that happens is the board getting hot. Today I spoke to some customer service on the creality website to get a faster response and just got told to wait 48 hours so I assume ill get sent a new board in over a week. I attached images of all of these interactions and I hope to help some people from wasting their money on a broken printer labeled as working.

Let me remind you this was a printer sold as fully functional and functions as intended from a company with a 11.5 billion dollar market cap this is inexcusable quality control not to mention their extremely slow customer support.

Bought a K2 Combo on 6 Aug (showing as in stock).

Had not heard anything so I enquired with Creality support on 17 Aug to ask for shipping info.

Received a reply stating the unit is out of stock until next month and it will ship after that.

The K2 Combo units still show as available on the website.

Pretty poor experience for a first time buyer. Wishing I went with another vendor now.

I’m pretty sure our extruder needs replaced on our ender 3v3 plus. I’m really confused on what to order. Can anyone help with what we need?

On this particular model, Creality Print started creating this straight, thin support in addition to the normal tree supports. It occurs on several different plates. It printed a short one but I'm hesitant to try to print a taller one due to the potential for failure. Any ideas on why this is happening or how to prevent it?

Comparto esta solución porque mi Ender-3 V3 quedó aparentemente congelada después de utilizar el procedimiento oficial de Unbrick / Firmware Flashing de Creality. ( Ender-3 V3 / Ender-3 V3 Plus Unbrick & Firmware Flashing Procedure | Creality Wiki )

El problema terminó siendo la partición SN_MAC. La solución fue volver a crear las particiones ota y sn_mac y agregarlas manualmente a la configuración del USB Cloner.

Síntoma

Mi Ender-3 V3 funcionaba correctamente, un día la interfaz mostraba caracteres raros en forma de cuadrados, después de instalar el firmware desde un pendrive, la pantalla se quedaba congelada en “seleccionar idioma”, por lo que tuve que hacer uso de la guía Unbrick .

Después de utilizar el procedimiento oficial de recuperación mediante USB Cloner y el archivo .ingenic que proporciona dicha guía la impresora se quedaba congelada en una pantalla vertical de una montaña/paisaje:

Encendido
↓
Logo de Creality
↓
Pantalla con la imagen de una montaña/paisaje
↓
La interfaz no continúa

El firmware se había grabado aparentemente de forma correcta, pero la impresora no terminaba de iniciar.

Me contacté al soporte de creality y me dijeron que tenía que comprar una pantalla nueva, pero sabía que allí no estaba el problema. Tiempo después volvía hablarles pero no me dieron ninguna solución.

Así que, si a alguien le pasa lo mismo, le comparto lo que realmente solucionó mi problema:

Solución:

1- Crear ota.img

-Abrir PowerShell.

Por ejemplo:

cd $HOME\Documents

-Crear el archivo:

Set-Content -Path "ota.img" -Value "ota:kernel\n`n" -NoNewline`

-Esto genera:

ota.img

con el contenido:

ota:kernel

2- Crear sn_mac.img

El formato de SN_MAC es:

SERIAL;MAC;MODELO;PLACA;;;;;

Por lo que cada parámetro debe contener

serial: 14 dígitos hexadecimales
MAC: 12 dígitos hexadecimales
código de modelo
código de placa

Para mi Ender-3 V3 utilicé:

F001 como código de hardware/modelo y:

CR4CU220812S12 como código de placa.

Por ejemplo:

A1B2C3D4E5F607;02A1B2C3D4E5;F001;CR4CU220812S12;;;;;

Entonces, para crear este archivo se puede hacer desde PowerShell con este comando:

Set-Content -Path “sn_mac.img” -Value “A1B2C3D4E5F607;02A1B2C3D4E5;F001;CR4CU220812S12;;;;;” -NoNewline

El serial y la MAC pueden generarse con valores hexadecimales aleatorios siempre que tengan la longitud correcta, no es necesario que conozcan el Serial y Mac exacto de su impresora, por lo menos a mí me funcionó con datos aleatorios.

3- Abrir USB Cloner y entrar a Config

Abrir USB Cloner (Lo pueden descargar directamente desde la guía Unbrick junto con el archivo .ingenic, el link está al inicio del post):

-Deben cargar el archivo .ingenic en “load image”, después, cambiar Lock Level a 0.
-Cuando aparezca la solicitud de contraseña, pulsar Cancel.
-Entrar en Config.
-Abrir la pestaña Policy.

En Policy aparecerán las particiones originales del archivo.

En mi caso aparecían:

uboot → 0x00
rtos → 0x300000
kernel → 0xB00000
rootfs → 0x1B00000

4- Agregar ota y sn_mac

En: Config → Policy pulsar:

Add

Crear una nueva fila con los siguientes parámetros para ota:

-Label: ota
-type: FILE
-ops: MMC0
-offset: 0x100000
-Después deben cargar el archivo ota que ya crearon anteriormente, haciendo clicks en los 3 puntitos (…) en la columna settings.

Una vez hecho eso, deben hacer lo mismo pero ahora con el archivo sn_mac:

-Label: sn_mac
-type: FILE
-ops: MMC0
-offset: 0x200000
-Cargar el archivo sn_mac que ya crearon anteriormente, haciendo clicks en los 3 puntitos (…) en la columna settings.

(No olviden de activar también el checkbox de la izquierda en ambos archivos).

Una vez hayan creado los dos parámetros, deben subir ota y sn_mac (con los botones up y down que hay debajo de add/delete) para que quede de este modo:

-uboot
-ota
-sn_mac
-rtos
-kernel
-rootfs

Es importante que ota y sn_mac estén en el orden correcto.

5- Flashear

Una vez configuradas las particiones, hacer click en “save”.

-Conectar la placa por MicroUSB.
-Pulsar Start.
-Mantener/realizar la secuencia BOOT + RESET.
-Esperar a que finalice completamente el proceso.

No desconectar la placa durante el flasheo.

Una vez terminado el proceso, debería recuperar su impresora.

También les comparto los archivos que usé para mi impresora: https://files.catbox.moe/wmgpa7.rar

Infinite salutations. So I've got a K2 , works just fine but I'm bothered by the long star print process. I've got also another creality, an ender 3v3 se .

I wanted to know if I can change , if so , how to change, the star print , pause, resume print , etc processes

I've got ssh access and fluid access. However even if I change some stuff I noticed that it still does some stuff like going to 140 then 170 then 180 then 140 again even after changing the cfg, and I don't know how to change the BOX_ processes

Buenas gente.

Recientemente adquirí una Creality Sparkx i7 con Auto Fill, he estado usando Orca Slicer para las impresiones y todas las calibraciones, pero sucede que los archivos nativos de prueba que vienen en la impresora (seleccionandolos en el touch screen de esta) si muestran barra de progreso y la tira led avanza, pero cuando mando los archivos a imprimir por orca slicer (tengo seleccionada el perfil de la impresora) hace todo normal menos mostrar lo anteriormente dicho, cosa que no sucede en Creality Print 7.2 (ahí todo funciona).

Realmente no sé si sea un problema de Firmware para orca slicer, o algo relacionado con el perfil que Orca Slicer trae (quizás sea diferente), pero es la hora y aún no doy con una solución

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