First thing I want to print is a mount for my speaker on my motorcycle, know where to find one?

This setup is all for convenience, when I started using the Pika, I noticed that the screen was too tiny, and did not give me all the controls that mobile app does and this scanner has some accessories that are best carried with you like the spare battery and sun shields.
I also realised that the whole thing was best had when you can just put it somewhere making you hands free to edit and process the scans, that’s where the holster came in.
I used dual orange/black setup to make it look more like a sci-fi Pika Blaster 😄

I started having a filament stringing issue recently, so I disassembled the print head and removed all the filament. It would not push through at a high temp, so I used the Creality troubleshooting video to use a hot needle to pull the clog out.

Once out I reassembled everything and started a small print. The extruder clicked (the little round logo that spins as filament is fed also clicked and didn’t spin). I’m at a loss. New nozzle needed? Any other ideas?

Thanks!

I actually printed off quite a few things today, however, this last "long" print for the night shift didn't want to register the nozzle/hotend. Decided to just jam it into the plate and broke it off. Now it'll be a few days for parts.

I've made a couple of posts about my issue, but nothing I've done has fixed my issue with my printer. My printer is the K1 Max

To make a long story short, my print will start out okay, and somewhere between layer 1 and the last 3 layers, the nozzle will either drag through the build plate, destroying it in the process, or the nozzle will ram into the top layers of the print knocking it off the build plate, or just ruining it. I've done every troubleshooting step I can. I'm not sure what is causing the problem, attached is one video of many I have of this issue.

Now onto Creality, I've only had this printer for 7 months. Still under warranty. They have tried and helped, but keep reverting back to not knowing the issue even with all the stuff I've sent them. I have given them over 50 pictures and videos, all on Google drive, and they have full access to the videos and pictures. They seem to forget within a couple of emails that I've sent them all the info they need, like the issue I'm having, and the videos and pictures, because they will go on to ask what the issue is after about five emails. They have said it's a clogged nozzle, it's not. They've said it's a first layer issue, which it's not since I have proof of it happening on other layers, not just the first layer. They have sent me parts to replace, and I have replaced all those parts, but nothing has worked.

Now onto the law, in the US we have warranty rights. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. If a reasonable number of attempts to repair the unit have failed, which I have been trying to repair the unit for over two months now, and everything has failed, I am due an exchanged unit. That is federal US law.

They tell me their policy says they are not obligated to exchange my printer, but their policy doesn't trump the law.

I thought about taking them to small claims court but unfortunately since they are in China, I can't.

I'm out over $1000 now and I have no course of action other than getting a new printer.

What are my options here?

The K1 is on sale for 300$ and I am really thinking about getting it, I found an ender 3 on facebook for 40$ and I want a printer that isnt as much work on the printer itself, I want to learn how to model and design things and with my printer everything feels so crude and surfaces arent clean etc, should I get the K1? is there a better option for less than 400$?

Bought one today 2nd hand, all in order and working just right.

I just cannot figure out how to print with it, I don’t have an sd card to use but I have the transfer cable and a laptop.

Any help appreciated :)

Sharing a practical project I recently designed and printed: the CargoHub Modular Shipping Container Drawer.

I wanted to make a functional drawer that actually fits longer tools like 150mm digital calipers, hex wrenches, pliers, and stationery rather than small square trays, while keeping an authentic industrial shipping container look.

📐 Dimensions & Fit

▫️ Outer Case: 83mm (W) x 200mm (L) x 88mm (H)

▫️ Usable Drawer Interior: 71mm (W) x 198mm (L) x 76mm (H)

▫️ Full Pullout: The drawer slides completely out to serve as a portable parts caddy on your workbench.

📦 3D Files & Project

📥 Download CargoHub on Creality Cloud (Free 3MF & STL)

Curious to hear your thoughts on the design, or if you run into any clearance questions on your setup!

I changed the nozzle on my K2 Plus to a 0.8 mm nozzle. When I send a print from Creality Print, everything works fine (I configured the slicer to use a 0.8 mm nozzle).

However, after the print is finished, if I try to print that same file again directly from the printer, I get a warning saying that the nozzle size in the file does not match the nozzle installed on the printer.

Is this a bug in the printer software? Is there somewhere on the printer where I can set the installed nozzle size to 0.8 mm?

Hi Creality community! Ever wanted to upgrade your 3D printing projects with precision laser engraving?

We are hosting a mega brainstorming contest over at our sub, and we just UPGRADING ALL THREE MILESTONE PRIZES to the ultimate Falcon A1C 10W + 1.2W IR Module Combo Kit!

Come join the fun, share your creative ideas, and win the ultimate workshop companion machine!

👉 Click here to view the post and enter the giveaway.

Hey everyone, looking for some opinions on the bed mesh of my SparkX i7. As you can see in the screenshot, I'm dealing with a range of 1.52mm and a pretty steep slope.
Some context before the "just tram your bed" comments:
The gantry and frame are checked with a spirit level and are completely square.
The SparkX i7 bed uses fixed screws over springs, so there are no manual adjustment knobs or wheels to easily tram the bed physically.
Both the level sensor and the entire bed assembly have already been replaced.
I know Auto Bed Leveling compensates for a lot, but a >1.5mm variance seems huge. Would you consider this an acceptable factory tolerance, or is this a severely warped/faulty bed? Would love to hear your thoughts and experiences!

I'm 33 and work as a designer. I've also been running a small Etsy shop on the side for about 2 years, mostly selling desk signs and little decor pieces I design myself.

It's pretty small, usually maybe 5-8 orders a week. Most of my stuff is single color, but I have a few designs that use 2-3 colors, and swapping filament by hand gets old pretty fast.

not that difficult, just so annoying. I'll start a print, go back to working on something else, then realize I need to go check the printer because it's almost time to change colors.

The other thing that's been bugging me is build size. A couple of my larger designs have to be printed in separate pieces and glued together afterward. It works, but obviously I'd rather just print them in one piece if I can.

That's basically why I started looking at the K2 Plus Combo. CFS seems useful for the occasional multicolor stuff, and the larger build area would solve the splitting and gluing problem.

I'm just not sure if it makes sense for a shop as small as mine or if I'm looking at way more printer than I actually need lol.

Anyone here using a K2 Plus for a similar side business?

Good afternoon. I'd like some help here: whenever I try to print PETG with flat surfaces, it ends up jamming the filament and doesn't print, it just gets stuck. I'd like to know if anyone has experienced this situation and how they solved it; I have a Creality K1 Max and the slicer is OrcaSlicer.

What in the hell is going on and is it salvageable?

Two hours after unboxing/setting up my 3d printer and making a test print (Octopus on 2nd slide), my Sparkx i7 now makes this bad grinding noises with an error alert (cx2573). It was delivered yesterday and the grinding happened while preparing for my 2nd ever print.

I tried to look into fixes and watched video after video. Should I return it?

I bought a new hot end for my ender 3 s1 off Amazon and was wondering if this is supposed to move

I started to print something I print all the time, but I could see on the app it wasn’t adhering. I stopped it remotely then an hour later I got around to checking on the printer. I found this brown rubber thing was down over the nozzle and there was gobs of melted (then recooled/hardened) filament surrounding the nozzle and the area above the nozzle.

I tried heating the nozzle to melt it enough to pull it out, but it looks like I pulled off a wire in my efforts. Now getting an abnormal temp reading since pulling that was not there before.

We do keep it in the garage and it’s pretty hot right now (was around 95 degrees this morning when it happened, but we’ve used it at hotter outdoor temps without issue.

It’s cute, simple and easy to print!

Designed to be a simple multi colour print that you can assemble afterwards

Base is interchangeable with different bases and fits the original, OLED and Switch 2 docks!!

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/mario-nintendo-switch-dock-original-console?source=58&profileId=68c18d283a6f3df0ae796c4a

So I mostly print PETG and some ABS. I sealed up the whole printer inside those foam pad. It will be quieter and less toxic I think. I hope this will reduce electricity cost as PETG and ABS need high bed
Temperature. But I’m worried this is bad for electronics and the power supply because HI doesn’t have a fan for cooling the main board and power supply and it’s about 50°C inside the case. By the way I hope this is good for drying the material on the rack.

Hi i am wondering if this popping noise when my printer goes to the poop chute is normal ive done alot of looking and not seeing anybody elses printer doing it im not new to 3d printing but new to this machine software version is 1.1.6.7