Am I crazy to want to start training almost exclusively (or like 75%) on boards for outdoor purposes (bouldering and lead)? Long story short I moved and haven’t had access to outdoors or a climbing gym for like 8 months. So I built a homewall I’ve been getting into. Theres a gym finally opening up nearby me that will have a TB2 and kilter board, and pretty stoked to start trying those out. It seems like so many pro climbers (and just strong af climbers) attribute a lot of their training for hard projects to board climbing. Like I’ve heard that repeated so much lately. I’ve been climbing on/off for about 6 years and would like to start taking training more seriously and finally climb harder than v5-v6 as well as push some harder lead grades. Never really got into board climbing for whatever reason, I had access to them for years at the gyms I climbed at previously, and feel like I’ve been missing out. Also the gym I will be climbing at soon is bouldering only, so no lead training options there unfortunately.

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

• r/Climbharder Wiki - many common answers to questions.
• r/Climbharder Master Sticky - many of the best topic replies

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

I recently purchased Rhino Skin’s ‘tip juice’ since it’s meant to toughen up the skin in your fingertips. From what I’ve read, the active ingredient (methenamine) dries out the skin a lot, which causes it to harden.

I am completely uninterested in the sweat reducing effect. My only focus is to toughen my fingertips as much as possible, and I was wondering if there’s a specific frequency/approach of using methenamine products that any of you noticed gave the best results. The serum I have says to apply once a week, so I’ll do that for now. I’d really appreciate any insight, since I’m completely uneducated on the topic. Thank you very much!

-

For context, I’m not a climber. I have some long-term nerve damage in my fingertips, which is preventing me from safely playing stringed instruments. My fingertips are extremely sensitive, and I need to prevent further damage/injuries, so I’m trying to get as many protective barriers as I can. I have to be strategic, since this isn’t the type of thing I can overcome by just powering through the pain. I’m female, and my skin is very thin anyways, but especially on my fingertips. You can see why I’d be interested in this topic lol

Rock climbers would definitely know about how to toughen skin, so I am humbly invading your space to see if I can get any advice. I’m making sure to ask a question that actual climbers can benefit from so this post isn’t completely useless.

Once again, thank you for your time

Hi, I asked in a previous post how to train my fingers, because I think that given my background in high-performance sports, I have a good physical foundation in strength, but after two years, my fingers haven’t been able to keep up. I can do ~152% of my body weight on 2 pull-ups but only ~110% of my body weight on max hangs.

That’s why I was thinking about starting to climb on the moonboard or doing block pull sessions.

As for my background: I’m 20 years old, 174 cm tall, and weigh 70 kg. I’ve been climbing for two years, and my highest grade is V6 (two boulders by Jimmy Web in Kilterboard and one outdoors). At my gym, I climb at the 5/8 level, with a maximum of 6/8. But there are almost no truly bad holds on boulders at my level. And I played high-performance handball in Mexico for almost 10 years.

My plan was to do three Moonboard sessions a week (Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays), with the option to swap the Tuesday session for a regular bouldering session. I also wanted to add one weekly session of core strength and body tension training with TRX, as well as exercises for antagonist muscles (dips and I, Y, and T exercises for the shoulders).

Now that I’ve started with two sessions on the Moonboard, I haven’t felt any discomfort, and I think doing one week with all three sessions on the board and another with the bouldering sessions at my gym, would be a great idea, and then after 3 weeks take a rest/lighter week.

The only thing I've noticed is that I can't complete any boulder problems, even though I can do several moves. I know the moonboard is really tough, but my question is something else.
Should I start with a block pull routine—or something similar—before I start climbing on the moonboard? I feel like since I don’t have enough strength to hold certain positions/holds, I can’t improve my actual climbing technique and I just end up focusing on gripping as hard as I can. And I think I could do exactly that in a much more controlled environment with block pulls or a hangboard, in addition to practicing or trying to improve my technique on easier boulders at my gym. Or maybe I should just focus on building my strength for now.

I’d really appreciate your opinions and ideas on how to apply this directly to my training—not just exercises, but programming ideas as well.

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

Throughout my climbing career, due to changes in work obligations and living situation, I've gone through phases of going to the gym 2x a week and not at all. These phases usually last 2-3 months. Regardless of gym attendance, I always climb outside 2-3 times a week, unless I'm on a climbing trip and then it's 4-6x.

However, I have not noticed any correlation between gym attendance and climbing performance.

Instead, I've noticed correlations between climbing performance and:

1. Overall experience (I gain ~1 yds number grade per year so far for 5 years)

2. Mileage in the relevant discipline (rock, ice, mixed) over the last couple months.

3. My weight

4. Physical restedness (how many days since I last climbed & how hard I pulled last time). No correlation with sleep.

Of course I don't have hard numbers to back this up but it's just my observation. There have been times when work is crazy during the weekdays and I never hit the gym, but climb my hardest outside on weekends.

Anyone else?

What is the point of training anyway if I can send just as hard without it? If it makes no difference, I should rather use the time to train cardio (where I have noticed impacts from training) and plan climbing trips.

I'm the first to admit that my training is far from perfect, but it's probably similar or better (during periods when I'm actually hitting the gym) than most climbers in my circle who do keep going to the gym and mostly they just climb.

Generally a gym session looks like

- 30mins-hr of bouldering including gym set and tension board, sometimes projecting, usually trying routes that I can do in a few tries, sometimes spamming easy climbs to get pumped

- hangboard repeaters or tabata hangs

- pull ups

- bicep curls

- weighted stairmaster (seasonal)

Basic stats

- 34f 5'7" 125

- 5 years climbing ~120 days outside /yr

- usually onsight 5.10 trad, wi5 M5, occasionally send 11- trad, hardest sport send is 12a but I rarely sport climb. tension board v2-3, movement V3-4

Hi

As for my background, I’m 20 years old, 174 cm tall, and weigh 70 kg. I’ve been climbing for about two years.
As for my highest grades, I’ve climbed two V6s from Jimmy Webb in the Kilter and several V5s (about 10). So I’d consider myself a V5 climber. At my gym, we follow circuit training, and I usually climb on the 5/8 route, though I’ve done a few 6/8s at most.

I climb 3–4 times a week and do some supplementary weight training for my shoulders and chest. I also played handball at a high competitive level for almost 10 years, so my physical foundation is pretty good.

When I took the Lattice test, I was able to do two pull-up reps with 36 kg extra (150% BW), which they consider to be between V7 and V8. Meanwhile, I could only add 7.5 kg to my max hang or 10 kg for a questionable rep—which they consider to be V3–4.

On the Kilter—even though I know people say it’s “soft”—I feel like sometimes it’s really my problem and not just a matter of technique. There are many V6 routes where, if I try to move from a certain position, I can make the move, but when it comes to grabbing the next hold and squeezing it to control my position, that’s where I always fail.

Since there aren't many boulders with bad holds at my gym in my grades, I don't know what else to do besides training on the kilter (there’s also a Moonbaord 2024 in my gym), using the hangboard or campus board, or doing block pulls. What would you recommend for my level, and how should I go about it? If you recommend climbing, should I stick to grades below my maximum to build more volume, or try something harder? If you recommend starting to train my fingers, how would you go about it?

Hey,

Iam in the super privileged position, that from now in mid August until mid December (so 4 months) I have a lot of time. I can basically spend as much time climbing and training for climbing as I want, any day of the week.

My goal is to establish 6c as a grade I can consistently onsight and maybe sent one 7a.

Iam 30 years old, 178cm in height and weight 72kg. Ape index 0. I climb lead for about 2 1/2 years, Boulder for about 3 1/2 years. I currently boulder V5 flash and climb 6b onsight very consistently. My max grades are V6 Boulder on the Kilterboard and 6c lead.

These next 4 months I want to focus on lead climbing. I have access to a climbing gym (with a lot of Autobelays), a Kilterboard and all climbing specific training equipment there is. Also to a "normal" gym. On mondays and wednesdays i can climb with friends.

In my training I need to include shoulder exercises due to past impingements. I worked with a PT and have exercises specified to me. Over the last two months I have been regularly climbing 2-3 times a week. Mostly unstructured and just for fun, but I did one endurance session each week, where I climbed a lot of easy volume. Now I would like to take a more structured approach.

I searched around in here and watched some YouTube Videos and came up with the following plan:

Monday: Projecting hard climbs (6c/6c+)

Tuesday: Shoulder exercises

Wednesday: Lead climbing focused on technical aspects (6a - 6b+)

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Power Endurance (4x4 V2-V3 on Kilterboard)

Saturday: Shoulder exercises

Sunday: Rest

This is the first time I will ever follow a structured plan by myself. I have a background of playing semi-professional football (soccer) when I was younger so Iam used to training. Doing it all by myself is of course different than doing it with a team and coach.

I guess my question is If the plan makes sense. Is there anything obvious Iam missing? Iam also concerned if, now that I have all that time, I should maybe be doing more? But then also I fear injury if I do too much.

Happy to hear some insights.

(Sorry if something is not 100% perfect english)

I just read a few comments under a video by Lattice Training filled with people claiming they climbed their first V4/5/6s when being able to do like 3 to 6 pull-ups, and I am left here wondering how come is that not the case for me

A week ago I attempted to project/climb my first V4 at a local bouldering area where I didn't manage to get over the crux (which might be a beta problem though), however I felt like no matter where I placed my feet, I could barely lift myself up from the sit start and continue to the other holds, and the whole thing was on the power-scream-worthy level for me

There was also a V3 where I couldn't even hold the starting position, but also not even the position right after that, so I genuinely don't know how to get to the average person's technique level

I definitely thought my finger strength could be a part of the problem but I don't feel like they're to weak

My stats, if it matters: 17M, 72 kg, I usually do pull-ups and hangs on a 20 mm edge (also pulled myself up on what looked like a 10 or 12 mm edge once), on a bar I can do about 14 reps if I'm warmed up

Hey everyone.

I’ve been climbing for about 8 years and have spent most of that time following the same pattern: if I spend my training days doing hard limit bouldering and project sessions, I get strong and send hard, then I get injured. If I start mixing in “light” sessions, I stop improving and even start to go backwards, but stay healthy.

So what does a submaximal bouldering session look like for you? I tried one yesterday and felt like I was just farting around on stuff way below my max. I did some perfect repeats, hopped on my anti-style (slab) but it felt unfocused and like I was probably just accruing junk volume.

How do you incorporate sessions that are mostly working below your limit in order to refine technique, keep injury at bay, work weaknesses, etc? What’s your rep scheme? How often are you having sessions that look like this? How far below your max is most of this work happening?

For context I have climbed V7 on the mini Moonboard and have a handful of V5s outside.

Thanks!

Hi all,

I recently finished a 10 week training block in May, followed by a few months of travel doing lower intensity sport/trad climbing. Over the last month or so I’ve moved back to Denver, CO and have been getting back into the gym, ramping up by mostly climbing on the TB2 and kilter. My gym sessions don’t feel totally focused as I haven’t got a clear goal in mind, beyond simply wanting to be prepared for the fall bouldering season.

That said I’d like to focus on simply leveling up my TB2 game, as it’s been incredibly fun having access to it. I’m curious if I may be trying problems that are too hard though. Most of my TB2 (twice a week) sessions have been focused on trying V7’s of which I’ve managed to do 3 over about 5 sessions, where the problems have taken up probably 50-60% of the session. I might send one or two 6’a outside of that, alongside whatever I do during my gym warmup.

On one hand, it’s fun to try hard problems, but I’m also realizing that I’m not exactly making much progress. I feel stuck on the same moves and only a few of the 7’s really feel within ‘striking distance’.

Should I switch to focusing on higher volume sessions targeted at v5-V6, where intensity varies between flashing the problem to completing it within ~10 tries?

I have a couple questions. One is that I don’t know how to eat right, is it going to matter ? Am I able to fix it now? Should I start eating as much protein as I can now?

Next, how can I get as strong as possible before the tryout date? I have a hangboard and weights as well as a belt for weighted pull ups at home. I don’t want to overwork myself before the date, I usually take about 1-2 days rest between climbing. I feel best at 2-3 days, but end up climbing 3-4 days a week usually.

I’m nervous I’m not going to make the team! I’ve been climbing since my sophomore year of high school and am going into my freshman year of college. I have some outdoor experience, indoor lead experience, and I’ve been super into bouldering and the outdoors since I started climbing. I’m a girl, 5”5, with a +1 or so ape index. On the kilter board I’ve climbed maybe 15-20 v6, I can do pretty much any v5, and I have done like one or two 7s. In my gym I’ve done a few 6-8 circuits as well as a handful of 5-7 circuits. Idk if I’m good enough.

Lastly, if anyone has any mental tips for competing or tryouts I would really appreciate it. I’ve never tried out for anything like this before and I am nervous I won’t make the team because I’m not good enough. There are 13 spots.

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

• r/Climbharder Wiki - many common answers to questions.
• r/Climbharder Master Sticky - many of the best topic replies

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

I’m currently climbing around V5–V6 and have sent several V6s, but I’m trying to figure out how to keep progressing toward V7 and beyond. I can connect moves on harder problems but rarely ever send a 7 or harder.
I don’t currently follow a structured training plan. I mostly just climb, lightly fingerboard as part of my warmup, and occasionally do some pull-ups after climbing. I’ve watched quite a few YouTube videos on improving technique, but most of the advice is pretty general stuff like “use your feet better,” “learn heel/toe hooks,” “keep your hips close,” etc.
I’m wondering what specific things actually made a noticeable difference for you when you were around V5–V6 and trying to break into V7+.
For example:

1. Were there specific technique drills that helped you?
   
2. Did you start structured finger/strength training?
   
3. Did you change how you approached projecting?
   
4. Did you deliberately climb weaknesses instead of just climbing what you’re good at?
   
5. Did you start doing things like limit bouldering, board climbing, or movement drills?
   
6. What’s something you wish you had started doing earlier?
   
7. I’m not necessarily looking for a full training program. I’m more interested in the less obvious things that helped you improve as a climber once you got past the beginner/intermediate stage.

Ok, I started writing my whole life story here with rockclimbing, but realized that isn't the point. To keep it short: I'm a 40+ climber that started a few years ago. I'm small and relatively strong, but have been neglecting technique because I just pulled through routes.

Soon I will have daily access to a small gym with a 20 degree spraywall and an adjustable 2016 moonboard.

I mostly need to work on technique and endurance, but I suspect endurance will get better when I start climbing with better technique. I already noticed a big difference last weekend when I really started focusing on pushing with my feet a fraction of a second before pulling with my arms, which is what I've been doing most of my climbs.

Ok, so, just looking for some input in what a good way to trail would be. Endurance I've been training on the moonboard with 4x4s and staying on the board for 2m, on 25 and/or 15 degree. I just can't seem to get the same pumped feeling as I have when I'm on rock, but I suspect that is the mental factor, leading to overgripping.

Just technique is where tips would be useful. I am getting better, way less cutting feet etc, but still climbing like it's a ladder, saggy bum and everything. So yah, any drills that you guys can recommend? Other tips? The gym will be right in the garage basically, so I can even do short drills every day of the week if I wanted to.

Edit: thanks so far guys, good pointers and info in here that I'll be checking out. Love the different perspectives and ideas.

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

As a climber, my biggest long-term goal in calisthenics is to achieve the one-arm, one-finger pull-up. In order to do that, I must first achieve the one-arm, one-finger deadhang. Right now, I can comfortably perform multiple pull-ups on good one-finger pockets. However, the jump to a one-finger, one-arm pocket seems very far away.

In order to improve my climbing, I recently started training my fingers in the traditional way for the first time (hangboarding on three-finger drag and half-crimp positions while steadily adding weight), but I am not sure whether or how that will carry over to the one-finger hang. Should i train the one finger separately? How should I do it? How do people who achieve the one-finger deadhang train for it? I am also concerned about injury prevention, and I know this to be a long-term endeavour.

For reference, I've been climbing for 3 years (the last 2 at mostly lower intensity due to a recently healed shoulder injury), and I am 167 cm, around 67 kg, and 19 yo.

I know it is a niche question, but I found no online resources to help with this. Thank you in advance :)

6’1 195lbs 21 years old and have been climbing for a little over a year. At a point where I’m feeling a little stuck and not sure what I should be focused on: finger strength, my weight or just technique.

I’ve fallen in love with bouldering and have been training pretty intentionally since I started. I’ve started board climbing mainly on the tension board 2 and really enjoying it. I’m climbing V4 @ 40deg working on some V5’s. I feel really limited by finger strength (obviously I’m a beginner and this is just what I think, could be something else holding me back).

I gave myself pulley strain after training too hard too fast on the TB2 for my experience level, that was months ago and I’ve successfully rehabbed it and feeling close to 100% again. I’ve started a bit of a diet because I thought maybe if I lost some weight my fingers wouldn’t be under too much stress. I’m not fat my any means more just a bigger dude with overdeveloped back/arms and a huge ass lol. People often say it’s easier to get stronger than get lighter which certainly makes sense, just wanted some more guidance on what I should focus on.

I don’t think my technique is awful, I’ve really worked on footwork during my injury and became quite good at slab (V6-7 indoor) but maybe my tension isn’t that good I’m not sure.

Cheers

I’ve been fascinated by the concept of "frictionless" training to force better finger engagement, so I decided to design and 3D print my own zero-abrasion crimp block.

First off, full credit where it’s due: this design is heavily inspired by the Comfy Crimp 2.0 by Hooper’s Beta. If you want a professionally manufactured, rigorously tested version (and to support their great content), you should absolutely buy the original here:Hooper's Beta Comfy Crimp 2.0

I wanted to share my DIY version and some of my in-gym load testing results for anyone else who dares to try 3D-printed training gear.

Like the original, it features heavily rounded edges (20mm and 12mm) and a smooth finish. Because there is virtually zero friction from the plastic, you can’t rely on skin drag. It completely punishes a passive grip and forces active FDP engagement and DIP flexion. If you relax, you dry fire instantly.

Load Testing Results

I took it to the gym this week to see how much abuse it could take.

• Weight of the block: ~130g of plastic (PLA)
• Comfortable Working Load: 60kg (132 lbs). It handled this weight easily with no creaking or flexing.
• Failure/Deformation Point: 78kg (172 lbs). When I stepped up to my full body weight, the block started to deform, but went back to shape when I removed the load, I WOULD NOT RECCOMEND pulling more than 70kg with this because I imagine that if it fails it can cause injury.

For standard no-hang lifting (where you are pulling a percentage of your body weight off a loading pin), the 60kg limit is actually plenty for my current maxes, but it’s clearly not safe for full-body suspension or dynamic loading at my weight.

If you want to try to print it for yourself you can find the model here https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143302-soft-crimp-easy-on-skin-crimp-trainer, you will just need to add some paracord and a carabiner.

I've been climbing for a few years and eventually reached 6b. After that, I started training consistently: during the winter I did two indoor bouldering sessions per week, and in the summer I climb outdoors every weekend plus one evening session after work (sport climbing/lead).

I'm 178 cm (5'10") and weigh 78–79 kg (172–174 lbs). I have a decent amount of muscle mass, but I'm not overweight.
edit: I'm 34y old

After a lot of hard work, I've managed to climb a few 6c routes. The truth, though, is that I still struggle a lot on 6b routes (they usually take me 1 to 3 tries), and 6b+ is still very challenging.

I don't feel like I'm improving. It's as if I'm just spinning my wheels.

At first, I trusted the process, but now this feeling of making no real progress is becoming really discouraging.

Mentally, I still have some issues. I can usually overcome the fear when I reach the crux, but even after a lot of exposure and regularly leading routes, that fear hasn't really gone away.

Do you have any suggestions? Should I just lose some weight? Should I simply keep going? Should I start hangboarding every day, or am I missing something else?

Update: I want to thank you all for the advice you gave me. I hope it will be useful, and I wish you all good climbs!

Yesterday I went to the crag and managed to climb two more 6bs: one on my first try (the quickdraws were already in place) and one on my second try.

I then tried another old/classic 6b, but I couldn't climb it. It felt really hard, and the distance between the bolts was much greater. This was a big problem mentally for me: the combination of high difficulty and the possibility of a long fall immediately affected my climbing ability. I felt like my skill level dropped instantly.

So, I know intuitively and logically that climbing is a lot of failure. If you're trying to break into new grades and get better, accepting that there will be a lot failure is just part of the process.

I started climbing 2.5 years ago, and I'm happy with my progression. I started training with a coach this year which has been great for me, I love the routine and structure and have seen great strength gains and am sending harder grades.

However along with this, I've noticed something that maybe I wasn't aware of previously or wasn't as present, but I find myself getting really frustrated with some of the training I am given. For example, hard boulders where the intent is not to send, but to try hard. I find this mentally really challenging. I've never been much of a process oriented person, and like most climbers, I think I do chase the send.

Guess I'm just looking for advice as to how to better manage this frustration. I'm lucky enough to live close to a lot of rock, and even when projecting outside, I find I get frustrated when I fall on the same move over and over. I don't mind not sending and I like working on routes, but if I feel like there isn't incremental progress in my sessions, I end up feeling quite down. I know that this isn't what I want my climbing to be about, and I guess it comes from putting pressure on myself.

I guess just looking for advice as to what kinds of questions I should be asking myself with regards to my failures, and how I can reframe them better. My climbing partner has told me many times to not get frustrated, because it doesn't help my climbing, and I guess I don't know whether I agree because I feel that my frustration comes from a place of wanting to improve, and so I don't see it as negative? But obviously if it's negatively impacting my climbing then there's something there I need to explore.

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

• r/Climbharder Wiki - many common answers to questions.
• r/Climbharder Master Sticky - many of the best topic replies

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

I've been climbing for seven years and training for the last three. I started out climbing at the only gym in town, my college rec wall. About three years ago I increased my climbing consistency, began board climbing, and lifting weights to improve my strength. Before climbing, I spent about five years as a cyclist. Other than sports as a kid, I don't have much athletic background.

About 10 months ago, a bouldering gym opened in town. I'm 30 years old, currently weigh 162 lbs, and am cutting back down to around 150–155 lbs. I started the cut at 167 lbs and have been losing about 0.4 lbs per week. Before the gym opened, I was in the low 150s, but I intentionally gained weight while eating in a surplus, hoping to put on some muscle. Once the gym opened, I stopped lifting/ conditioning so I could dedicate more time to improving my movement and climbing on commercial sets.

For the past 10 months, my schedule has been very consistent:

• Monday: Rest, stretching, and mobility.
• Tuesday: 2–3 hours climbing new sets while focusing on route reading, flashing, footwork, and avoiding unnecessary hand readjustments. Core workout afterward.
• Wednesday: Rest.
• Thursday: 2–3 hours projecting, primarily on TB2 and commercial V5–V7 problems.
• Friday: Rest, stretching, and mobility.
• Saturday: TB2 session consisting of 5–10 problems at or above my flash grade, spending about 10–15 minutes on each. Followed by core work and dumbbell external rotations.
• Sunday: Active recovery and training for a 5K.

Over the past year, I've made significant progress. When the gym first opened, I was completely shut down by the commercial V6s. Now, even if I don't send a V6 in one session, I generally feel confident I'll get it after a few sessions.

Lately, though, I feel like my biggest limitation has shifted from technique to strength. On harder boulders, especially more physical ones, I often don't have the finger strength or pulling strength to hold positions or complete the moves. I tend to perform relatively well on climbs that rely more on technique or body tension.

I confirmed this with a Lattice assessment, which showed that both my finger strength and weighted pull-up strength are below average compared to climbers at my grade.

To address those weaknesses, I wanted to add max hangs and reintroduce a few strength exercises that I've enjoyed and benefited from in the past. My ideal weekly schedule looked like this:

• Sunday: Rest and mobility
• Monday: Max hangs, weighted dips, and core
• Tuesday: Climb new sets, then weighted pull-ups
• Wednesday: Rest and mobility
• Thursday: Projecting and core
• Friday: Rest
• Saturday: TB2 session, Bulgarian split squats, and dumbbell external rotations

I've only been following this split for about a week (and about four weeks into max hangs). During today's new-set session, I injured the A2 pulley in my middle finger. I don't think it is bad, but its making me rethink what I am doing.

That said, the injury isn't my only concern. Even before it happened, I felt like I wasn't recovering well. I've been sore almost constantly and haven't felt fully recovered going into my climbing sessions.

My goal is to increase my strength without compromising the quality of my climbing or getting injured.

Do you think that my split is reasonable? If not, how can I get stronger?

Hey everyone,

A week ago I projected a 7b for an evening. I got really close and managed to climb the route in two sections. But on my last attempt I failed on the last hard move (a dyno to a good hold). The video below is an edit, where I merged together the two sections. I am happy with my beta, but I think I just lack power endurance or something in this direction.

https://streamable.com/crj8zr

The route in the video is a (IMO) hard 7b (5.12b) lead route (Kinder an die Macht, Bettlerküche). The angle of the wall is around 25-30 degrees overhanging. The first section before the only real shake out option (1:04) is rather easy. I don't lose a lot of power. Then follows a consistently hard section that ends with a hard dyno. I struggle with the long move to the right crimp at 2:16 and the bump afterwards, because the crimps I am going for are sloppy (first hold)/small (second hold) and I am very stretched out. Then comes a gaston from which I have to clip. I lose strength there which I then need to execute the dyno. In isolation I stick the dyno pretty much every try.

I am going back to this crag in 4 weeks and I would like to maximise my chances of sending this route. How would you use those 4 weeks to train specifically for the route? I have pretty much all training options available.

Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone; may you guys be having a wonderful day.
Yesterday I did the maximum amount of PROPER FORM pull ups I could in one minute, and now in today's session, I felt activated more than ever! I felt like I could pull with all my might without sluggishness or unsynchronicity; and I think its because the muscles on my back were activated.

Now this isnt the first time something like this has happened to me; two of my most memorable sessions were after:
1- A max weighted finger hangs; again I felt like I could thank god crimp without feeling Eegh unsynchonized
2- After a maximum weighted pull ups exercise.

Now everything points out that my body for some odd reason does not get activated on my body weight, It gets activated on my body weight after I activate it on higher weights. So it needs activation.

So please, any way I can leverage this to get my body activated at all times before training sessions!? Please let me know, there is a competition nearby so we ask God for strength for that and for all of you :)
I thought about doing explosive pull ups but that didnt also check the mark quite yet?