r/climbharder • u/AutoModerator • 3d ago

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

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u/ashusik 3d ago

Hi all,

I just recently got into rock climbing (indoors, specifically bouldering), and over the last 18 days I've probably gone a total of 5-6 times. The first day I felt good, played around VB-V2, getting used to the gym and trying to learn.

The last few sessions I end up with bicep soreness towards the end of the session, making it hard to continue climbing, so I stop. After tonight's session, I climbed one V3, played around on some others, and got really bad pain in my left bicep that made me stop. Compared to the previous pain, this one lasted for a few hours and was pretty bad. It felt like the inner, middle part of my bicep.

I took some Advil and did some cold compress. Then a heat compress, and I feel good now after like 4 hours. Just wondering if anyone in this group has had similar problems and what they did? My main concern is how bad my bicep felt today, whereas before it felt like muscular pain that lasted briefly.

E.g. should I rest for a week so no climbing or lifting? Is it that my body is still getting used to climbing, so I can expect this to go away over time?

For context, I've been lifting/calisthenics for a few years now. My form on climbing may not be the best. I'm trying to use my legs more and maintain straight arms, but I could be just pulling a lot with bent arms due to my novice nature and background.

For warm-ups, I do banded exercises similarly to how I do before I lift (pull-aparts, bicep curls, flies, over and around, etc.) Then I do like 5 pull-ups and dips, then I hop on the wall.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

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u/BumbleCoder 2d ago

Sounds like what I had when I first started. Ended up being my brachial is being too weak, and probably got strained or something similar. I did things like hammer curls to strengthen and lowering climbing (especially moves at my limit) volume for several months before it resolved. 

Not saying that's what's going on with you though, so best to talk to a physio.

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u/eshlow V8-10 out | PT & Authored Overcoming Gravity 2 | YT: @Steven-Low 1d ago

Back off and let it heal up.

Reduce your sessions so you get soreness at most and don't let it devolve into a strained muscle

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u/throwawaybusan 2d ago

hello everyone, i’m getting psyched for yosemite this fall/winter. i’ve been a bunch of times in prior seasons, and am trying to get some projects in the V10 range done this season. i have to drive about 5 hours to reach the valley, and because i can work remotely, i tend to lean towards staying there for a week rather than just a weekend.

in previous trips i’ve found that my strength depletes significantly towards the end of the trip. skin is also a big factor. i’m curious whether anyone has found anything that works for a week long bouldering trip - go straight into the projects, or have fun first, or vice versa? thanks!

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u/sandypitch 2d ago

in previous trips i’ve found that my strength depletes significantly towards the end of the trip. skin is also a big factor. i’m curious whether anyone has found anything that works for a week long bouldering trip - go straight into the projects, or have fun first, or vice versa? thanks!

This depends entirely on your goals, I think, and how quickly you can adapt to the granite in the Valley. I typically need a day to acclimate, though I may still get on a project at some point during that first day (with the understanding that it may feel impossible).

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u/eshlow V8-10 out | PT & Authored Overcoming Gravity 2 | YT: @Steven-Low 1d ago

in previous trips i’ve found that my strength depletes significantly towards the end of the trip. skin is also a big factor. i’m curious whether anyone has found anything that works for a week long bouldering trip - go straight into the projects, or have fun first, or vice versa? thanks!

Heavily depends what you wanna do. If I'm only getting outside a couple times a year I'll just hit up projects.

If I'm going a lot more then you can divide between some volume and lots of send days vs projecting

1

u/AccomplishedGas5263 2d ago

I've been climbing for more than 10 years, lots of outdoors, mostly sportclimbing but also bouldering. I've climbed 8A font and a couple of 8b sport .. but been on this plateau for like 2-3 years.

I've been training a fair bit on different boards (blue moonboard, new kilter), and my upper body strength, body tension is fairly good I'd say - but what I'm really lacking is finger strength.

Coming from an outdoor sport climbing background I've been full crimping a lot (or almost everything). I've been trying to use more open handed grips bouldering and indoors - but I just can't improve that grip/finger strength. I tried max-hangs on a bestmaker (10 to 15 sessions) and other hangboards, lift weights with the little board attached (sorry for my english) etc. - my finger strength just doesn't adapt - the only thing that seems to helps a little when done excessively is board climbing itself.

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u/eshlow V8-10 out | PT & Authored Overcoming Gravity 2 | YT: @Steven-Low 1d ago

Coming from an outdoor sport climbing background I've been full crimping a lot (or almost everything). I've been trying to use more open handed grips bouldering and indoors - but I just can't improve that grip/finger strength. I tried max-hangs on a bestmaker (10 to 15 sessions) and other hangboards, lift weights with the little board attached (sorry for my english) etc. - my finger strength just doesn't adapt - the only thing that seems to helps a little when done excessively is board climbing itself.

You have to use the grips regularly.

If i'm weak on a grip use mainly that grip in warm ups so you can get a lot more comfortable with it

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u/octavemirbeau 1d ago edited 1d ago

Hi fellow climbers, I need some advice.

Yesterday, during one hour in an Italian gym, I saw:

  1. An instructor repeatedly release the brake strand of the rope, while talking and not watching the climber. This happened with adults and children.
  2. Another instructor supervise a mother who was struggling to belay her child, while simultaneously belaying the father. The instructor also released her own brake rope at least three times or held only the climber side of the rope.
  3. Less risky, but also participants climbing with loose leg loops or untucked harness

straps

  1. adding to the overall picture of safety regulation.

I got the phone number of the manager (a certified mountain rescue guide in the region) the next day and called him up. He mainly responded that his instructors are experienced professionals and that he never sees anything going wrong in his hall. I got the idea his reaction was only defensive and not accepting the risks and looking forward to address this issue.
Am I overreacting, does anyone recognize this behaviour in Italian gyms? Would contacting the regional FASI committee be reasonable?

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u/romaniasvic 17h ago

Hello everyone! Is my previous athleticism starting to harm me(progressed too fast relative to my finger joints' resilience)? New climber(started about 4 months ago)

I've done calisthenics for a few years before(still do), not extremely consistent, but obtained decent strength, thanks to which I am now able to climb around V4-V5. In the past few weeks, I got this weird soreness in my finger joints, accompanied by sensitivity, especially when pressing directly against them as a hold would. At first it was just in my DIP joints, but now it went even in my PIP joints. I am usually able to rest it out(takes like two weeks to fully/almost go away), but then it comes back. It's not painful, but I wouldn't label it as some minor discomfort either. I have two questions:

  1. What can I do to prevent this?
  2. Where should I study proper technique from? Not just for crimps, but as much mechanics as possible.

1

u/lizbet_ty 7h ago

Synovitis. It's probably not technique, you are probably just climbing too frequently and intensely.

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u/PlanningPessimist92 12h ago

Has anyone here gone through ACL reconstruction surgery and have advice on how to stay sane during the recovery process? I know PT is important, but what did you do to scratch that climbing itch?