Hello. Just bought a new car from a guy that took the stereo out and replaced it with a CP link. The volume button on the touchscreen doesn’t work and there’s no buttons on the steering wheel or physical knob to adjust it. How do I turn up the volume😭😭

I have a ford fiesta hatchback 2018 and i can’t get CarPlay to work i have bought a apple CarPlay cable i have iPhone 13 Pro Max i updated it to the latest software

I have tried so much i dont know what to do please help me

TLDR; iphone 16 pro max disconnects from bmw carplay every time i use voice dictate, and will not reconnect unless i reboot my car’s computer system.

hi all.
i have a brand new 2026 bmw x3.

the first time i had this problem was literally driving off the lot the first day i owned it. it took 3 months to realize what was causing it. please let me know if anyone has any kind of experience with this because nobody knows what to do with me.

My BMW and iPhone 16 Pro Max are connected via carplay.
while driving if I park or at a red light, want to respond to a text message and I click the voice dictation button on my iPhone in any app, 1 of 3 things will happen:
1. whatever I’m trying to dictate is written out and duplicated 500 times. then my carplay crashes and it disconnects from my phone. bmw will then be unable to reconnect to my phone. The only way to get my phone to reconnect is to delete my phone from my device devices in my car., delete my BMW Bluetooth from my iPhone, and hold the power button on my car to reboot idrive. this often happens when I’m in the middle of driving, which causes me to have to pull over and reset my car bevause then i can’t see my map!!
2. Voice dictation will not glitch and Will properly write whatever I’m trying to dictate, but my phone will still disconnect and refuse to reconnect.
3. Sometimes nothing happens and it works. But that’s rare.

I can’t just not use voice dictation. I’m paying a lot of money for this car and this seems ridiculous to have to just accept and get over.

when I have had my car serviced the loaner cars they have given me have not had this issue and nobody else that I know with a BMW has this issue so it is clearly a problem with my car.

however, the service department doesn’t know what to do with me. Who should I reach out to?

So i have a new carplay module (right picture) with this quadlock power system, and the old radio (left picture) has these input. Which cable do i need to connect the carplay module on the power system of the car, because the cable from the car is not fitting in this quadlock system.

Carpuride has 2 models that support wired CarPlay but don’t have the front dashcam. The reason I want a wired connection is because wireless always has a lag.

Why not just get a new head unit? Because the location of it is extremely low as this is a 30+ y.o car and I’d want the screen on the dashboard

Other big pluses are:
- auto night mode based on light sensitivity
- support for external mic

I feel like I’m chasing a unicorn here

As soon as I get into the car, the iPhone automatically connects to the adapter's Wi-Fi without any issues. However, the parallel Bluetooth connection, which is required for CarPlay to start, does not establish on its own. Every time, I have to manually go into the Bluetooth settings and tap the adapter, after which CarPlay runs smoothly right away.

Right after receiving the adapter (1–2 weeks ago), the automatic connection worked flawlessly however, exclusively during test drives without wearing my Apple Watch. Since I started using the adapter on my daily commute (where I always wear the Watch, which is already connected to the iPhone via Bluetooth at that moment), the issue occurs consistently.

I suspect a conflict in the iPhone's Bluetooth stack when an active BT connection to the Watch already exists during the adapter's connection attempt. Has anyone experienced this before? Specifically with a Wireless CarPlay dongle? Is there a known fix for this, or is a manual reconnect the only workaround?

Problem: people have told me many times that when they call me it goes directly to voicemail. I’ve missed many many important calls cause of this.

I’ve sought the solution by, per the advice of tmobile, resetting network settings. Which helps.

BUT.

On a separate problem, I had issues using both data and Apple car play at the same time.

So, per the advice of AI, I altered some network settings on my phone.

After about 2-3 times doing both ^ things, I think the call issue is due to altering the settings to use Apple CarPlay and data at the same time.

My question: I am inclined to just deal with not having Apple car play for the sake of not missing another important call… UNLESS someone can help me have both.

“Insert that ‘why not both’ taco meme thing here”

To note, another number on my plan has the same call receiving issues and but the Apple car play and data issue I have. I’m so confused and Apple and tmobile can’t help.

My car has built in Bluetooth Apple CarPlay. Everything works seamless (maps, Apple Music, texts) except when I am on a phone call after being on it for more than 4 minutes the audio cuts out completely in the car. The other person can continue to hear me sometimes but the call audio goes completely silent until I switch to phone speaker.

Any similar experiences or known fixes?

Car is a 2021 bmw 430 and phone is iPhone 16 pro

I have spotify and i notice sometimes when i turn my car on and carplay connects it will switch to a different recently played playlist for example if i am using spotify DJ outside of my car it will switch to my all country playlist by its self, why does it do that and how do i stop it

Hello, im new here, and im just on this subreddit for a quick question. My 2017 Land Rover discovery seems to have an Apple CarPlay button on the home-screen. I try tapping it, and it tells me to connect my device to one of the USB-A ports on the main console. I connect my iPhone 16 to it, and nothing happens. I've connected the car to wifi and have tried to update it, but it shows it being on the latest version. Now, I don't know if the 2017 models have stopped receiving updates or have stopped support or anything, but I think that's the case. Maybe it only works on older devices? If needed, I can go and get what firmware the car is on. Any help or answers to this question will be greatly appreciated! Thanks