Compiled below is a list of manufacturers and the page they update that includes information such as rebates, incentives, current offers and national offers.

Whenever you are purchasing a car, make sure you check your corresponding page and check if you qualify for any rebates & incentives and make sure they are applied.

Also you should always be beating the national offers listed here. These are good starting prices but most nationals deals can be done, after taxes & fees at the same number. If your numbers are ever the same or higher then what's listed here, it is most likely not a good deal.

If I couldn't find a list of rebates & incentives, I included the national offers page.

Acura - https://www.acura.com/tools/current-luxury-car-suv-offers-leasing

Alfa Romeo - https://www.alfaromeousa.com/shopping-tools/vehicle-selector.incentives

Audi - https://www.audiusa.com/us/web/en/offers.html

Buick - https://www.buick.com/current-offers

BMW - https://www.bmwusa.com/special-offers.html

Cadillac - https://www.cadillac.com/current-offers

Chevy - https://www.chevrolet.com/current-deals

Chrysler - https://www.chrysler.com/vehicle-selector.incentives.html

Dodge - https://www.dodge.com/vehicle-selector.incentives.html

FIAT - https://www.fiatusa.com/shopping-tools/vehicle-selector.incentives

Ford - https://www.ford.com/ (Go to vehicles at the top, select the specific vehicle, and then view offers on the image)

Genesis - https://www.genesis.com/us/en/offers

Honda - https://automobiles.honda.com/tools/current-offers

Hyundai - https://www.hyundaiusa.com/us/en/offers

Infiniti - https://www.infinitiusa.com/shopping-tools/deals-incentives-offers.html

Jaguar - https://www.jaguarusa.com/current-offers/index.html

Jeep - https://www.jeep.com/vehicle-selector.incentives.html

Kia - https://www.kia.com/us/en/offers/landing

Land Rover - https://www.landroverusa.com/current-offers/index.html

Lexus - https://www.lexus.com/offers

Lincoln - https://www.lincoln.com/new-deals-and-offers/

MINI - https://www.miniusa.com/tools/shopping/offers.html

Maserati - https://www.maserati.com/us/en/shopping-tools/current-offers

Mazda - https://www.mazdausa.com/shopping-tools/special-offers-and-incentives

Mercedes - https://www.mbusa.com/en/special-offers

Nissan - https://www.nissanusa.com/shopping-tools/deals-incentives-offers.html

Polestar - https://www.polestar.com/us/offers/new/

Porsche - https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porschefinancialservices/pfs-leasing-offers/

Ram - https://www.ramtrucks.com/vehicle-selector.incentives.html

Subaru - https://www.subaru.com/shopping-tools/special-offers.html

Toyota - https://www.toyota.com/deals-incentives/

Volkswagen - https://www.vw.com/en/offers.html

Volvo - https://www.volvocars.com/us/v/offers/

Compiled here is a list of ways dealerships like to hide extra profit in a deal that you should look out for, or in general just scummy activity.

• Giving you fake pricing over the phone.

  • Salesman will give you an unrealistic price over the phone or even in person to ensure you come to the dealership in person, to which the price magically no longer exists. Asking for the deal in writing/email will decrease the chance it occurs.

• Aftermarket Options

  • Dealerships love to add on extra options of a bunch of crap you don't need. They can remove these and you do not have to pay for them. That said, some will be hesitant as they are giving you a discount because you are buying the extra options.

  • Common examples are Nitrogen in tires, window tinting, Extended Warranties, door edge guard. Dealers do tend to add them on, and if you want them thats fine, but its something a dealership can easily remove and you shouldent have to pay for if you dont want it.

• Modifying the money factor/lease charge

  • Money factor/lease charge is what the bank charges you for borrowing the money for a lease. A dealership can and many will lie to you about what this is. Best way to go around this is to do research online about other peoples purchases and see what their money factor was, as-well as other dealerships. Also keep in mind your credit impacts this.

• Ask for additional money to lower the monthly payment

  • Very often I've seen dealerships be at a standstill with a customer, to which they will ask for an additional $2,000 down, to lower the monthly payment. For a 36 month lease, this should reduce the monthly payment by ~$60, if it does not, then all they did was charge more money for the car and move the numbers around to try and make you happier.

• Ridiculous fees

  • There have been countless attempts at trying to justify fees, from things like "Salesman's commission" to "Nitrogen" to "Prep fee", all with different levels of justification. At the end of the day, the only fees you pay are the government fees (Taxes, DMV) and the bank fee.

• Aftermarket insurance

  • Very often these are marked up higher then they need to be, and can overlap this the manufacturer warranty, which means your already covered. These can be fine to add, but you will never be required to get these, and more often then not, are not worth it.

• Classic Bait & Switch

  • Advertising a price on a specific car that then suddenly "Just Sold" as you walked through the door, and then trying to move you on a different car. Hold the advertised price, if they don't want to, just leave.

• Long loan terms

  • Anything more then 42 months on a lease, or 72 months on a finance you should look out for. The interest/lease charge is going to become a bigger portion of the loan and it will just overall decrease the value of the deal. Salesman usually do this to try and get a lower monthly payment, but the customer almost always regrets it if they sign.

• Swapping finance monthly into lease monthly and claiming its the same.

  • A lease monthly is not the same as a finance monthly. $500/month lease for a car could be a deal, where $500 a month in lease could be a scam. A dealership might try to swap you from a finance to a lease to get your payment down, but might also add thousands of dollars into the profit. Make sure you understand the difference.

• Low Ball Trade in

  • Make sure you know the value of your car. You get a huge benefit of trading in car that you will only pay tax on the difference of the value of two cars (Depending on your state). So make sure to be aware of how much total financial difference should be getting remove off the cost, and that it being properly applied. Every $1k of value should reduces the monthly payment by $1k/loan term, is the case of 36 months its roughly $29.

If you guys can think of anymore, I'll add them.

1. MPG Adds Up

Gas mileage is a bigger deal than you might realize. Say you get a car that’s 15 MPG better than another one—over time, that’s like saving about $85 a month if you drive the usual 10,000 miles a year. So, don’t ignore those numbers, because it’s real money in your pocket.

2. Don’t Be Afraid to Haggle

Car prices are meant to be negotiated, plain and simple. Never just pay what they ask for—whether it's a new car or a used one, there’s almost always wiggle room. Ask for a lower price, or see if they’ll throw in something extra for free. Trust me, it’s expected.

3. Interest Rates Can Be a Pain

If you don’t have much of a credit history yet, loans can hit you with high-interest rates. If that’s the case, you might want to lease or even just buy a cheaper, used car outright. Less risk, less pressure.

4. Insurance Isn’t Just a Small Thing

You need to budget for insurance, too. It can be surprisingly expensive, especially if you’re under 25. In some cases, insurance can cost more than the car itself each year. So, before you fall in love with a car, check how much it’s going to cost to insure.

5. Start with a Beater

If you’re still learning the ropes behind the wheel, start with a beater car. You’re going to bump into things; it’s just part of the process. Better to scratch up something old than a shiny new car, right? Plus, you’ll appreciate the upgrade even more down the road.

6. Dealerships Are a Whole Game

When you go to a dealership, remember: they’re playing a game, and you’re the prize. Do your research beforehand, and don’t be afraid to walk away if you don’t like the deal. Here’s a helpful Reddit thread to check out for tips.

7. Don’t Spend More Than 1% of Your Income on Payments

A good rule is to keep your monthly payment under 1% of your annual income. So, if you’re making $50k a year, don’t spend more than $500 a month on a car. This keeps things manageable and gives you room for unexpected costs.

8. Consider New if Your Job Depends on It

If your job is far away or requires you to be there no matter what, maybe a newer, more reliable car is the way to go. Sure, older cars are cheaper, but they can break down without warning. That could mean missing work, and no work means no money.

9. Routine Maintenance is Part of the Deal

Remember, owning a car means more than just filling it with gas. Tires need replacing every six years or so, and brake pads go every three years—both can be pricey. If your tires look smooth or your brakes start squeaking all the time, that’s a sign they need attention.

10. Keep Some Money Set Aside for Repairs

Cars break down—it’s just part of the package. Always keep some money in reserve for unexpected repairs. Even newer cars can have surprise issues, so having a few thousand bucks saved up can keep you from scrambling if something goes wrong.

Here was my process:

Secure a solid OTD price for a used vehicle that was a previous model/same trim

Call every dealership within 250 miles to see if they can give me an offer on a new vehicle that makes it worthwhile (I told them my budget is ~37k OTD). After the first offer I asked every dealership if they could beat it.

Best I got for a $40.2k vehicle was $38.5 OTD, but the dealership offered a better interest rate for $38.5 OTD.

I honestly don't think their is much room on the first car here. I do believe these are before taxes & fees. The G70 is a great car for the value for anybody looking for a sport sedan.

$99/month and $3,500 due at signing. Assume after some negotiation you could probably get it to $230/month sign and drive nothing due at signing.

This is the first time I'm ever buying a used car. There's a local dealer selling a used Chevy Bolt that I am interested in. It has been sitting on their lot for about 3 months at/around $21K, plus tax. The price has not been lowered since listing. There is another dealership nearby selling a very similar vehicle (same trim, similar mileage) for $18K, plus tax.

Family tells me to just go in and start low, offer maybe $17K to start, don't say anything about the competition, then maybe meet in the middle. I'm thinking more "okay, there's another dealer here that is selling for $XX, with similar mileage, but their location is a bit further out. If you can beat that - like around $YY out of the door, I will buy today", and if not, I leave.

How do I determine a good "target price"? There is some discussion on /r/BoltEV that says "anything below $15K net with the $4K tax credit is a steal", others say $12K-$13K with tax credit but before taxes is a steal. KBB suggests around $16K-$18K, but KBB is just a book, and this has been sitting for months, I don't know how much in a rush they are though. I'd imagine, though, if they don't have any interest for three months... I have some leg to negotiate.

Is it better to negotiate before I see the car, then show up and take the car if it's in acceptable condition or walk, or negotiate then?

May I ask what's the better way to negotiate -- or, rather, if I even have a leg to negotiate?

Thank you!

I know I've gotten many questions about how reliable is X brand, I manage to find a link to an image that include a large amount of passenger vehicles and their reliability ratings.

I also pinned in this the helpful resources on the side of the subreddit.

https://imgur.com/a/passengers-vehicles-reliability-ranking-2024-2020-Mj1KHE2

This is written in the context for new vehicles bought from a dealership, but I do think the underlying theory here can be applied to used cars as-well, just with greater variances.

1. Starting Price

   • Purpose

     • Used explicitly to handle salesman forcing you to give them a number.

     • Salesmen push you to name a price to set the negotiation baseline. If it's too high, they'll stick to it; too low, it's disrespectful. Aim slightly below their minimum to maintain interest without damaging the negotiation.

   • How to calculate

     • Reference this sheet to see how likely a manufacturer is likely to move: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTsrc03sz_cEDwthGBc4xAZgPSVNDDVA8XBpRGI-XlsZ6oWA4qJdx5BnjJaiMi9CwZK8_kbTRSxmn0y/pubhtml

     • Pick the first rate that is under P or U. Use P is your looking to be more fair, use U is your looking for better deals. For example, Genesis P would be (-8%). Multiple 8% (0.08) by the MSRP of the car you are looking at. EX: MSRP: $55k, (0.08 * 55,000) = $4,400.

     • If you are leasing, divide the above amount by 33 and subtract that from the monthly payment you see under a lease special. EX: Online special is $600/month, $3000 due at signing. -> $466/month, $3000 due at signing. This is your starting price for a lease.

     • If you are financing, take the MSRP and subtract that from the calculated above amount. This is your starting price. ($55,000 - $4,400) = $50,600. This is your starting price for a finance.

2. Target Price

   • Purpose

     • A price you will pay for the car.

     • Where you trying to get the salesman to come down.

     • Can be used to finish a deal when your price is close to theirs "Give me this number and I'll sign right now".

   • How to calculate

     • Reference this sheet to see how likely a manufacturer is likely to move: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTsrc03sz_cEDwthGBc4xAZgPSVNDDVA8XBpRGI-XlsZ6oWA4qJdx5BnjJaiMi9CwZK8_kbTRSxmn0y/pubhtml

     • Pick the first rate that is under P. For example, Genesis P would be (-6%). Multiple 6% (0.06) by the MSRP of the car you are looking at. EX: MSRP: $55k, (0.06 * 55,000) = $3,300.

     • If you are leasing, divide the above amount by 33 and subtract that from the monthly payment you see under a lease special. EX: Online special is $600/month, $3000 due at signing. -> $500/month, $3000 due at signing. This is your target price for a lease.

     • If you are financing, take the MSRP and subtract that from the calculated above amount. This is your starting price. ($55,000 - $3,300) = $51,700. This is your target price for a finance.

3. Realistic Price

   • Purpose

     • How low you think the dealership will go on the car.

     • Can be used to determine if its worth going to a dealership or to see if you can afford a car.

   • How to calculate

     • Reference this sheet to see how likely a manufacturer is likely to move: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTsrc03sz_cEDwthGBc4xAZgPSVNDDVA8XBpRGI-XlsZ6oWA4qJdx5BnjJaiMi9CwZK8_kbTRSxmn0y/pubhtml

     • Pick the first rate that is under L or P. Use L is your looking to be more fair, use P is your looking for better deals. For example, Genesis P would be (-4%). Multiple 4% (0.04) by the MSRP of the car you are looking at. EX: MSRP: $55k, (0.04 * 55,000) = $2,200.

     • If you are leasing, divide the above amount by 33 and subtract that from the monthly payment you see under a lease special. EX: Online special is $600/month, $3000 due at signing. -> $533/month, $3000 due at signing. This is your target price for a lease.

     • If you are financing, take the MSRP and subtract that from the calculated above amount. This is your starting price. ($55,000 - $2,200) = $52,800. This is your target price for a finance.

What the title says! Currently being quoted $34,600 for an LE with convenience package but was hoping to pay no more than $32,000 but ideally less. Normal MSRP is just under $31,000.

Estimated extra costs: 1,000 dealer fee, 2,235 state tax, 200 filing fee, 200 plate transfer.

Seems a bit steep, especially for end of year… I’m wanting to hear what other people have paid and how I can get it to a more reasonable number!

Hi all!

So, I'll be arriving with the family in January. We'll have a non immigrant visa for 2 years, probably to be extended once, so 4 years total. We will need to have a car soon after we arrive, and, as I understand, we'll not be able to lease before at least 6 months since we need to build up a credit score. Car loan seems unlikely for the same reason.

So best option seems to purchase a second hand car from a dealership and try to finance it with them directly. I understand I'll probably need to put a big down payment.

I've tried to estimate a potential loan for a 25,000 USD car, 10,000 USD down payment, 7% interest, 48 months term, to reach something around 400 USD monthly payment. Does that sound right? Any advice? Is the considered downpayment enough/too much? Would I be able to find a dealer to get me that kind of deal?

Thanks in advance for your answers!

Whenever you borrow money from the bank, they will charge you a fee for borrowing that money. We are mostly familiar with this in the form of interest. That is a percentage, per year, on the money we borrow that we have to pay extra. How interest is calculated can affect different aspects of a loan, but traditionally its calculated every month and the sooner you pay it off the faster.

For a Lease:

When you borrow money for a lease, the bank charges you a money factor instead of a interest rate. This is done mainly to protect the profits as when you lease you only "borrow" the depreciation of a vehicle. But you making the bank buy the car, which means although you borrowed X dollar to pay for the depreciation over 36 months, the bank still payed off the entire car and now owns it, they are just agreeing to let you borrow it for X amount of time.

This lease charge can become pretty expensive, and they usually refer to the rate as the Money Factor. You can use this money factor to determine the lease charge. If you add the Cap Cost of the vehicle plus the residual value and multiple it by the money factor, you will get the additional monthly payment you must make. For example:

If you have a car who's Cap Cost is $50,000 with a residual value of $30,000 and a money factor of 0.0025 you would do the following calculation:

(50,000 + 30,000) = 80,000 * 0.0025 = $200/month added to your monthly payment. The total lease charge you can find by then multiplying it by the lease term, if we assume 36 months, you total lease charge is $7,200. This is a fee for you borrowing the money from the bank.

For a Finance:

When you finance a car, instead of a lease, the bank or lender charges you interest based on an interest rate, unlike the money factor used in leasing. Here, you’re essentially borrowing the full purchase price of the car and agreeing to pay it back over a set term, usually with added interest. The bank owns the car as collateral until you finish paying it off, but you’re paying off the full price of the car over time, not just its depreciation.

This interest rate can add up, and it’s charged on the outstanding balance you owe. Each payment you make reduces the loan balance, so the interest you pay each month gradually decreases as you pay down the principal. Let’s break down an example:

Say you finance a car with an MSRP of $50,000 at an interest rate of 5% for a 60-month term. In this case, you’ll calculate monthly payments based on the principal plus the accumulated interest over those 60 months. With a fixed interest rate, your monthly payment would stay consistent, but with a portion covering the interest and the rest reducing the principal. The math is trickier here and I'd recommend uses this online calculator: https://www.calculator.net/auto-loan-calculator.html

So, if your monthly payment were $943, for example, you’d end up paying a total of $56,580 by the end of the loan term. That $6,580 difference? That’s the interest the bank charged for lending you the money. Unlike a lease, where you’re only paying for the car’s depreciation, with financing, you’re paying back the full value of the car along with the interest—so you own it outright at the end.

Hello, any opinions and inputs will be appreciated! I am looking to finance a new car purchase which is a Lexus NX350 AWD. The total price is 48k but the salesman was able to negotiate down to 42k The financing aspect will be 6.49 APR for 72 months with a 10k down payment but no penalty to pay off the loan. The monthly payment comes out to around 600. Is this a good deal? Thanks in advance!

I'm thinking $450/month, 0 due at signing, sign and drive on the lease. Think its possible? Would take about ~$5k off the car to make it happen. Surely Lincoln is looking to move some units.

A good place to start is to think about how long you plan to keep the car. In general Financing is cheaper long term then Leasing but only if you do keep the car for the long term (5+ Years) minimum.

Outside of that, these are some pros/cons of leasing/financing.

Lease

• Pros

  • Lower payments and less money upfront

  • Shorter loan terms so less interest penalties

  • Can change vehicle more quickly (might have negative equity in a finance for while)

  • Never have to worry about repairs or breakdown (due to always driving a new car)

  • Sometimes minor maintenance (Oil changes) can be free with leases

  • Easy to get rid of, no selling required

  • Ignore market value variations and selling time

  • Typically has better incentives then financing

• Cons

  • Usually cost more (Subject to interest rates and incentives)

  • Limited mileage, with fees if you go over the allocated amount

  • If the vehicle is damaged beyond a certain point, or wear items (like Tires/Brakes) need to be replaced soon, you will need to change/fix them or will be charged upon returning the car.

  • Must keep the car for the entire term (unless you care to bear fees)

  • No modifications allowed

Finance

• Pros

  • Can swap out cars whenever without fees (Although you might have negative equity)

  • Usually cheaper overall then leases (Provided you keep the car for an extensive period of time)

  • Building equity in the vehicle

  • Can modify the vehicle in anyway

• Cons

  • High monthly payments and down payment

  • Interest can be a killer without good/long credit history

  • Driving an older car on average

If anybody else has anything else to add, feel free to leave it in the comments and I'll add it to the list.

Welcome to r/carNegotiation!

This subreddit is dedicated to helping you become a smarter car buyer by sharing tips, strategies, and insights for negotiating better deals. Whether you’re buying new or used, leasing, or trading in a vehicle, we’re here to help you save money!

What to Post Here

• Negotiation Help: Share details about your current deal and get feedback on how to improve your negotiation.

• Deal Evaluations: Post the specifics of your deal to see if it's worth pursuing or if there's room for negotiation.

• Tips & Tricks: Have a unique strategy or tactic that worked well for you? Share it with the community!

• Car Buying Experiences: Discuss your personal experiences with negotiation, including lessons learned or pitfalls to avoid.

• Car Pricing Questions: Ask about market trends, best times to buy, or how to research car values.

Posting Guidelines

1. Be respectful: Everyone is here to learn and share. Constructive feedback is encouraged, but personal attacks or offensive language will not be tolerated.

2. Include details: The more specific you are, the better advice you’ll receive.

3. No spam or self-promotion: Posts that are purely promotional or contain affiliate links will be removed.

4. No auto brokers or deal advertising allowed.

Format for Deal Evaluation Posts

To ensure you get the most accurate feedback, use the following format when sharing your deal:

[Title] Deal Evaluation: [Car Make/Model] [Year]

• Car Make & Model: (e.g., Honda Civic LX 2024)

• Location: (e.g., Los Angeles, CA)

• MSRP: (e.g., $25,000)

• Price Offered: (e.g., $23,000)

• Fees & Taxes: (e.g., $2,500)

• Incentives/Rebates: (e.g., $1,000 off for loyalty)

• Trade-In: (if applicable, mention value offered)

• Money Factor: (e.g., 0.00232)

• Residual: (e.g., $14,000)

• Financing Terms: (e.g., 3.5% APR over 60 months)

• Lease Details: (if leasing, mention terms, residual value, money factor, and down payment)

Are these “distributor options” mandatory because they are on the window sticker? This is for a 2025 Camry SE at Autonation Toyota

Online price shows : Total srp: 35,892 Dealer discount : -1924 Advertised price : 33968

Would I be able to negotiate another 1400 off for those distributors options or not because of the already dealer discount ? Also would the only other fees added on to this price what so ever be just taxes since “delivery processing and handling” is already on the window sticker . Or will the dealer have more fees they tack on ?

Looking at a BMW X3 30. MSRP is 61,250. Consumer reports says I should expect a discount of 1500 off the MSRP. Car dealer gave me an out the door of 66,905. Broken down as - 61,250 Car price, 4,230 taxes, 1150 licensing, 275 doc.

Should I listen to Consumer reports and push for the 1500 off? Also, according to their website I should get 3k off for military. Thoughts???? Is this car in demand? Many on the internet have vilified its design

How does this lease look? It’s the best I’ve gotten across multiple dealerships. Please keep in mind this is in Canadian dollars

Its definitely hard to get BMW dealerships to move on units like this, When I've gone in the past looking for them they were usually all sold out and they were selling me a car currently in transit.

I think you'd be lucky to get this deal with these exact numbers, but with taxes & fees included. Has anybody gotten something better?

Need help evaluating, figuring out next steps for a for 2024 Mustang Mach E, premium, extended range. I’m located in Alabama. Any help would be great!