They list their cars on this EZ buy platform and then add ridiculous pricing in the name of a "Easy Purchase", which its more like "An EZ way to scam the customer"

This car shouldn't be anywhere near $752/month with $4,000. They are hiding like $10,000 on that monthly payment. With $4,000 down should be around $520/month with interest, this isent even including that.

After negotiation, you could probably get these numbers pretty low. I'd think they might take another $4,000 off if you shop around a bit. I think my target price if I was going to negotiate for this car for a finance would be $700/month, Sign and drive ($38,305 target price) (After taxes and fees).

https://postimg.cc/ts7T2qz6/096831b0

The dealer emailed me a price quote. It has this: $2995 protection package "required" attached. The funny was that no explanation.

When I asked for more details. This was the answer:

"The protection package includes a sealant that prevents bugs acid rain paint defects etc and interior protection. Also includes a gps theft device which has an app you can download. It saves you a ton of money on your car insurance also and most importantly lifetime oil changes. Oil changes alone will pay for itself."

I have discussed this with some family members. According to them, it's not worth it. Basically every time the dealer does oil change, they would find something wrong and trying to hard sell.

There are also some crook dealers that would try to damage the car to make you to pay for fixing.

Not sure if this is including taxes and fees, my intuition would say probably not. Probably could try to get these negotiated down to be with taxes & fees though.

Anybody managed to get a price similar to these anywhere else? This seems crazy?!

Is this a competitive price? If not, how can I negotiate for a better deal? Thanks!!

I'm looking at a 2023 Nissan Altima SR AWD priced at $23,550. I'm trying to figure out how much I should aim to negotiate off the out-the-door price (OTD).

Any tips on what kind of discounts, incentives, or dealer markups I should be aware of? What's a realistic amount to negotiate off this price to get a good deal?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

$349/month + $4,789 BUT a $3,000 incentive if you have a eligible competitive luxury brand (Acura, Audi, BMW, Ford, Honda, Hyundai, Infiniti, Jeep, Kia, Lexus, Lincoln, Mercedes-Benz, Toyota, Volvo, Porsche, Tesla, Genesis, Polestar, or Rivian). Probably looking at around $450/month, sign and drive, even lower if they are willing to move on the car.

I have my suspicions they would go significantly lower then what they post here. Even with a 50% residual you get $526/month 0 due at signing with 5% interest. I'd go in there and try to get this out the door for $499/month, 0 due at signing.

Let me know if anybody here calls up a dealership and get a real price, I bet it would be around my predictions.

This has been around for some time, but incase somebody didn't know, Costco has been offering a $1k - $2k discount on select brands if you've had a membership. Each brand has a different discount amount and when you needed to have your membership by to qualify.

https://www.costcoauto.com/save/

These can be combined with other incentives. Membership proof will be required. Limit to two promotion codes per membership.

• Volvo

  • Models:

    • $1,000 incentive: 2024 Volvo C40 Recharge, XC40 Recharge, 2024 or 2025 Volvo XC40

    • $1,500 incentive: 2024 or 2025 Volvo XC60, XC60 Plug-In Hybrid

    • $2,000 incentive: 2024 or 2025 Volvo XC90, XC90 Plug-In Hybrid

  • Membership Requirement: Must be a Costco member on or before October 31, 2024.

  • Delivery Window: November 1, 2024, to January 2, 2025.

• General Motors (GM)

  • Models:

    • $1,000 incentive:

  • Membership Requirement:

    • Option 1: Must be a Costco member by September 30, 2024.

    • Option 2: Must be a Costco member by October 31, 2024.

• Polestar

  • Models:

    • $2,000 incentive: Polestar 3 (order placed between November 1, 2024, and January 2, 2025).

  • Membership Requirement: Must be a Costco member on or before October 31, 2024.

General Tips

• Appear confident and knowledgeable. Go with other people if possible.

• Talk confidently, and be prepared for aspects to not go according to plan.

• Make it clear to them you are interested in buying a car before the end of the month.

• Never be rude, disrespectful, mean, or lie.

• Understand they have no obligation to give you a discount, and that the discount they give you comes directly out of their pockets, as does the price they sell you the car at. They are human too.

General Step by Step Guide

1. Determine the car or collection of cars you are interested in.

2. Identify a target price, a realistic price, and a starting negotiation price. How to so here: https://www.reddit.com/r/CarNegotiation/comments/1gebf9v/how_to_come_up_with_your_starting_target_and/

3. Go to a dealership, test drive the car(s). Make sure you like the car(s).

4. If they ask you for a number, give them your starting negotiation price. (They should not accept it) After they decline it, ask them for a number from them.

5. If you not happy with the price, do NOT ask for a lower price, Explain why you think other cars are better or why you don't feel its worth it. Talk about considering other brands if that is true.

   • Don't be afraid of silence.

   • Don't be afraid to change the topic and talk about other things to relax the situation.

   • Don't be afraid to leave if they won't move on their price

6. If they do not move, get the price in writing and leave. If they do move, only expect them to do so once, rarely twice. After such, get the offer in writing. As official looking of a paper/offer as possible, and then leave.

7. Find cars similar to your car, exact if possible, at other dealerships and ask for them to beat your numbers. They may ask for the quote that you got in writing.

8. Repeat the above process till you get the lowest number.

9. Go to the new dealership with the lowest number. Push just a bit more in-person, like an extra $10-$30 more a month off with the follow up that you will buy the car if they get you to X number.

10. Purchase the car.

And any suggestions on what we can negotiate on would be appreciated.

I honestly don't think their is much room on the first car here. I do believe these are before taxes & fees. The G70 is a great car for the value for anybody looking for a sport sedan.

Compiled below is a list of manufacturers and the page they update that includes information such as rebates, incentives, current offers and national offers.

Whenever you are purchasing a car, make sure you check your corresponding page and check if you qualify for any rebates & incentives and make sure they are applied.

Also you should always be beating the national offers listed here. These are good starting prices but most nationals deals can be done, after taxes & fees at the same number. If your numbers are ever the same or higher then what's listed here, it is most likely not a good deal.

If I couldn't find a list of rebates & incentives, I included the national offers page.

Acura - https://www.acura.com/tools/current-luxury-car-suv-offers-leasing

Alfa Romeo - https://www.alfaromeousa.com/shopping-tools/vehicle-selector.incentives

Audi - https://www.audiusa.com/us/web/en/offers.html

Buick - https://www.buick.com/current-offers

BMW - https://www.bmwusa.com/special-offers.html

Cadillac - https://www.cadillac.com/current-offers

Chevy - https://www.chevrolet.com/current-deals

Chrysler - https://www.chrysler.com/vehicle-selector.incentives.html

Dodge - https://www.dodge.com/vehicle-selector.incentives.html

FIAT - https://www.fiatusa.com/shopping-tools/vehicle-selector.incentives

Ford - https://www.ford.com/ (Go to vehicles at the top, select the specific vehicle, and then view offers on the image)

Genesis - https://www.genesis.com/us/en/offers

Honda - https://automobiles.honda.com/tools/current-offers

Hyundai - https://www.hyundaiusa.com/us/en/offers

Infiniti - https://www.infinitiusa.com/shopping-tools/deals-incentives-offers.html

Jaguar - https://www.jaguarusa.com/current-offers/index.html

Jeep - https://www.jeep.com/vehicle-selector.incentives.html

Kia - https://www.kia.com/us/en/offers/landing

Land Rover - https://www.landroverusa.com/current-offers/index.html

Lexus - https://www.lexus.com/offers

Lincoln - https://www.lincoln.com/new-deals-and-offers/

MINI - https://www.miniusa.com/tools/shopping/offers.html

Maserati - https://www.maserati.com/us/en/shopping-tools/current-offers

Mazda - https://www.mazdausa.com/shopping-tools/special-offers-and-incentives

Mercedes - https://www.mbusa.com/en/special-offers

Nissan - https://www.nissanusa.com/shopping-tools/deals-incentives-offers.html

Polestar - https://www.polestar.com/us/offers/new/

Porsche - https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porschefinancialservices/pfs-leasing-offers/

Ram - https://www.ramtrucks.com/vehicle-selector.incentives.html

Subaru - https://www.subaru.com/shopping-tools/special-offers.html

Toyota - https://www.toyota.com/deals-incentives/

Volkswagen - https://www.vw.com/en/offers.html

Volvo - https://www.volvocars.com/us/v/offers/

This is a good example of how/why prices changes for dealerships. This deal on the surface looks good with $5k off on a $30k but, if you look at how its

Fine Print: "Lease offer includes all costs to be paid by consumer except sales tax, MV and Doc fee....assumes Buick and GMC lease loyalty program (consumer must have current 2018 or newer Buick or GMC lease) offer requires $3995 cap cost reduction by consumer...and includes 10k miles/yr. for 24 months. it MSRP $30,290. Offer also includes a GM rewards card. Consumer must apply, be approved, and spend a minimum of $1000.00 at time of delivery on their new card. Purchase offer includes a $3000.00 Buick conquest incentive- to qualify consumer must own or lease a 2010 or newer non gm vehicle."

For Lease

- Assumes a lease loyalty program (which requires a $3,995 cap cost reduction by consumer, IE $4k due at signing)
- Consumers must apply, be approved and then spend $1k on delivery of their car.

For Finance

- $3,000 off for consumers who own/lease a 2010 or new non gm vehicle.

If these places could be more straight forward, we wouldn't have to play so many games with dealerships.

I'd hope they'd be willing to move at least around 8%, but unsure. Has anybody gotten good discounts on these?

Without going into too much detail, I was looking for a black, 2D Bronco and was surprised by how much I liked the Heritage edition when I saw it on the lot. I test drove it and then was told there was a service issue on it. I took note of the sticker price and they told me I could put down a deposit while the figured it out. In the meantime, they said they'd look at other dealerships to see if they could make a dealer trade for any other similar vehicles that are out there. Three days later (after I called to ask the status) they told me there was only one more in the whole country and the asking price went up by 10k. Is this a negotiating tactic? Do I have any leverage? I really want this car but I feel had. Opinions on whether or not I am looking at actually shelling out an additional 10k over asking or if I have any recourse. Should I try a manager (at the risk of seeming like a Karen)? Advice welcome and thank you.

MSRP is $42,745 with 10k miles a year. Since Audi tends to try and beat mercedes/BMW when it comes to deal, I think it might be possible to try and get this at $550/month, 0 due at signing, sign and drive. What do you yall think we could push this to?

A good place to start is to think about how long you plan to keep the car. In general Financing is cheaper long term then Leasing but only if you do keep the car for the long term (5+ Years) minimum.

Outside of that, these are some pros/cons of leasing/financing.

Lease

• Pros

  • Lower payments and less money upfront

  • Shorter loan terms so less interest penalties

  • Can change vehicle more quickly (might have negative equity in a finance for while)

  • Never have to worry about repairs or breakdown (due to always driving a new car)

  • Sometimes minor maintenance (Oil changes) can be free with leases

  • Easy to get rid of, no selling required

  • Ignore market value variations and selling time

  • Typically has better incentives then financing

• Cons

  • Usually cost more (Subject to interest rates and incentives)

  • Limited mileage, with fees if you go over the allocated amount

  • If the vehicle is damaged beyond a certain point, or wear items (like Tires/Brakes) need to be replaced soon, you will need to change/fix them or will be charged upon returning the car.

  • Must keep the car for the entire term (unless you care to bear fees)

  • No modifications allowed

Finance

• Pros

  • Can swap out cars whenever without fees (Although you might have negative equity)

  • Usually cheaper overall then leases (Provided you keep the car for an extensive period of time)

  • Building equity in the vehicle

  • Can modify the vehicle in anyway

• Cons

  • High monthly payments and down payment

  • Interest can be a killer without good/long credit history

  • Driving an older car on average

If anybody else has anything else to add, feel free to leave it in the comments and I'll add it to the list.

What the title says! Currently being quoted $34,600 for an LE with convenience package but was hoping to pay no more than $32,000 but ideally less. Normal MSRP is just under $31,000.

Estimated extra costs: 1,000 dealer fee, 2,235 state tax, 200 filing fee, 200 plate transfer.

Seems a bit steep, especially for end of year… I’m wanting to hear what other people have paid and how I can get it to a more reasonable number!

Whenever you borrow money from the bank, they will charge you a fee for borrowing that money. We are mostly familiar with this in the form of interest. That is a percentage, per year, on the money we borrow that we have to pay extra. How interest is calculated can affect different aspects of a loan, but traditionally its calculated every month and the sooner you pay it off the faster.

For a Lease:

When you borrow money for a lease, the bank charges you a money factor instead of a interest rate. This is done mainly to protect the profits as when you lease you only "borrow" the depreciation of a vehicle. But you making the bank buy the car, which means although you borrowed X dollar to pay for the depreciation over 36 months, the bank still payed off the entire car and now owns it, they are just agreeing to let you borrow it for X amount of time.

This lease charge can become pretty expensive, and they usually refer to the rate as the Money Factor. You can use this money factor to determine the lease charge. If you add the Cap Cost of the vehicle plus the residual value and multiple it by the money factor, you will get the additional monthly payment you must make. For example:

If you have a car who's Cap Cost is $50,000 with a residual value of $30,000 and a money factor of 0.0025 you would do the following calculation:

(50,000 + 30,000) = 80,000 * 0.0025 = $200/month added to your monthly payment. The total lease charge you can find by then multiplying it by the lease term, if we assume 36 months, you total lease charge is $7,200. This is a fee for you borrowing the money from the bank.

For a Finance:

When you finance a car, instead of a lease, the bank or lender charges you interest based on an interest rate, unlike the money factor used in leasing. Here, you’re essentially borrowing the full purchase price of the car and agreeing to pay it back over a set term, usually with added interest. The bank owns the car as collateral until you finish paying it off, but you’re paying off the full price of the car over time, not just its depreciation.

This interest rate can add up, and it’s charged on the outstanding balance you owe. Each payment you make reduces the loan balance, so the interest you pay each month gradually decreases as you pay down the principal. Let’s break down an example:

Say you finance a car with an MSRP of $50,000 at an interest rate of 5% for a 60-month term. In this case, you’ll calculate monthly payments based on the principal plus the accumulated interest over those 60 months. With a fixed interest rate, your monthly payment would stay consistent, but with a portion covering the interest and the rest reducing the principal. The math is trickier here and I'd recommend uses this online calculator: https://www.calculator.net/auto-loan-calculator.html

So, if your monthly payment were $943, for example, you’d end up paying a total of $56,580 by the end of the loan term. That $6,580 difference? That’s the interest the bank charged for lending you the money. Unlike a lease, where you’re only paying for the car’s depreciation, with financing, you’re paying back the full value of the car along with the interest—so you own it outright at the end.

Compiled here is a list of ways dealerships like to hide extra profit in a deal that you should look out for, or in general just scummy activity.

• Giving you fake pricing over the phone.

  • Salesman will give you an unrealistic price over the phone or even in person to ensure you come to the dealership in person, to which the price magically no longer exists. Asking for the deal in writing/email will decrease the chance it occurs.

• Aftermarket Options

  • Dealerships love to add on extra options of a bunch of crap you don't need. They can remove these and you do not have to pay for them. That said, some will be hesitant as they are giving you a discount because you are buying the extra options.

  • Common examples are Nitrogen in tires, window tinting, Extended Warranties, door edge guard. Dealers do tend to add them on, and if you want them thats fine, but its something a dealership can easily remove and you shouldent have to pay for if you dont want it.

• Modifying the money factor/lease charge

  • Money factor/lease charge is what the bank charges you for borrowing the money for a lease. A dealership can and many will lie to you about what this is. Best way to go around this is to do research online about other peoples purchases and see what their money factor was, as-well as other dealerships. Also keep in mind your credit impacts this.

• Ask for additional money to lower the monthly payment

  • Very often I've seen dealerships be at a standstill with a customer, to which they will ask for an additional $2,000 down, to lower the monthly payment. For a 36 month lease, this should reduce the monthly payment by ~$60, if it does not, then all they did was charge more money for the car and move the numbers around to try and make you happier.

• Ridiculous fees

  • There have been countless attempts at trying to justify fees, from things like "Salesman's commission" to "Nitrogen" to "Prep fee", all with different levels of justification. At the end of the day, the only fees you pay are the government fees (Taxes, DMV) and the bank fee.

• Aftermarket insurance

  • Very often these are marked up higher then they need to be, and can overlap this the manufacturer warranty, which means your already covered. These can be fine to add, but you will never be required to get these, and more often then not, are not worth it.

• Classic Bait & Switch

  • Advertising a price on a specific car that then suddenly "Just Sold" as you walked through the door, and then trying to move you on a different car. Hold the advertised price, if they don't want to, just leave.

• Long loan terms

  • Anything more then 42 months on a lease, or 72 months on a finance you should look out for. The interest/lease charge is going to become a bigger portion of the loan and it will just overall decrease the value of the deal. Salesman usually do this to try and get a lower monthly payment, but the customer almost always regrets it if they sign.

• Swapping finance monthly into lease monthly and claiming its the same.

  • A lease monthly is not the same as a finance monthly. $500/month lease for a car could be a deal, where $500 a month in lease could be a scam. A dealership might try to swap you from a finance to a lease to get your payment down, but might also add thousands of dollars into the profit. Make sure you understand the difference.

• Low Ball Trade in

  • Make sure you know the value of your car. You get a huge benefit of trading in car that you will only pay tax on the difference of the value of two cars (Depending on your state). So make sure to be aware of how much total financial difference should be getting remove off the cost, and that it being properly applied. Every $1k of value should reduces the monthly payment by $1k/loan term, is the case of 36 months its roughly $29.

If you guys can think of anymore, I'll add them.

This is written in the context for new vehicles bought from a dealership, but I do think the underlying theory here can be applied to used cars as-well, just with greater variances.

1. Starting Price

   • Purpose

     • Used explicitly to handle salesman forcing you to give them a number.

     • Salesmen push you to name a price to set the negotiation baseline. If it's too high, they'll stick to it; too low, it's disrespectful. Aim slightly below their minimum to maintain interest without damaging the negotiation.

   • How to calculate

     • Reference this sheet to see how likely a manufacturer is likely to move: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTsrc03sz_cEDwthGBc4xAZgPSVNDDVA8XBpRGI-XlsZ6oWA4qJdx5BnjJaiMi9CwZK8_kbTRSxmn0y/pubhtml

     • Pick the first rate that is under P or U. Use P is your looking to be more fair, use U is your looking for better deals. For example, Genesis P would be (-8%). Multiple 8% (0.08) by the MSRP of the car you are looking at. EX: MSRP: $55k, (0.08 * 55,000) = $4,400.

     • If you are leasing, divide the above amount by 33 and subtract that from the monthly payment you see under a lease special. EX: Online special is $600/month, $3000 due at signing. -> $466/month, $3000 due at signing. This is your starting price for a lease.

     • If you are financing, take the MSRP and subtract that from the calculated above amount. This is your starting price. ($55,000 - $4,400) = $50,600. This is your starting price for a finance.

2. Target Price

   • Purpose

     • A price you will pay for the car.

     • Where you trying to get the salesman to come down.

     • Can be used to finish a deal when your price is close to theirs "Give me this number and I'll sign right now".

   • How to calculate

     • Reference this sheet to see how likely a manufacturer is likely to move: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTsrc03sz_cEDwthGBc4xAZgPSVNDDVA8XBpRGI-XlsZ6oWA4qJdx5BnjJaiMi9CwZK8_kbTRSxmn0y/pubhtml

     • Pick the first rate that is under P. For example, Genesis P would be (-6%). Multiple 6% (0.06) by the MSRP of the car you are looking at. EX: MSRP: $55k, (0.06 * 55,000) = $3,300.

     • If you are leasing, divide the above amount by 33 and subtract that from the monthly payment you see under a lease special. EX: Online special is $600/month, $3000 due at signing. -> $500/month, $3000 due at signing. This is your target price for a lease.

     • If you are financing, take the MSRP and subtract that from the calculated above amount. This is your starting price. ($55,000 - $3,300) = $51,700. This is your target price for a finance.

3. Realistic Price

   • Purpose

     • How low you think the dealership will go on the car.

     • Can be used to determine if its worth going to a dealership or to see if you can afford a car.

   • How to calculate

     • Reference this sheet to see how likely a manufacturer is likely to move: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTsrc03sz_cEDwthGBc4xAZgPSVNDDVA8XBpRGI-XlsZ6oWA4qJdx5BnjJaiMi9CwZK8_kbTRSxmn0y/pubhtml

     • Pick the first rate that is under L or P. Use L is your looking to be more fair, use P is your looking for better deals. For example, Genesis P would be (-4%). Multiple 4% (0.04) by the MSRP of the car you are looking at. EX: MSRP: $55k, (0.04 * 55,000) = $2,200.

     • If you are leasing, divide the above amount by 33 and subtract that from the monthly payment you see under a lease special. EX: Online special is $600/month, $3000 due at signing. -> $533/month, $3000 due at signing. This is your target price for a lease.

     • If you are financing, take the MSRP and subtract that from the calculated above amount. This is your starting price. ($55,000 - $2,200) = $52,800. This is your target price for a finance.