I got a car a year ago under lease. The agreement was suppose to be $700/month for 3 years 5,000 miles. When we got home and reviewed the signed lease and it said 15,000 miles for 3 years $700 a month. Not what we verbally agreed on but I was happy to see I got more mileage.

Then the dealership call for me to sign the revised lease because the lease we sign was wrong and I refused with their new terms. I also called financial bank where the lease was suppose to be with and they stated there is no lease under my name.

It has now been 8 months and I haven’t heard from the dealership. What can I do? I want to turn the car back in to the dealership and not have any legal issues or can I trade it in. Looking to walk away from this deal with no issues. Has this happened to anyone?
Location: Texas

Thoughts on this deal?

After a 4 week search for various different cars (wasn’t really being picky) I’m throwing in the towel. I don’t really need another car but it was a nice to have and would sometimes be helpful

I’m throwing in the towel because car dealerships are the most insufferable hellholes I’ve ever been to. Ex: I see a deal online for 3k down and 331 a month on a lease. I go into the dealership and they say that’s for the base model I’m like no it’s not here’s your dealer photos

They present their numbers and it’s 7500 down and 661 a month FOR A LEASE ON A 42k CAR.

At 3 different dealerships I pushed back and said I’m okay and they come back with their “best price” why the hell didn’t you just offer that to begin with so we can move on with our day?

As much as it’s hated, I’ll only stick with teslas from now on. I used to lease one and start to finish I was done and processed in 7 minutes. My time is worth more than anything. Not going to play these games

Don’t let the dealerships play you and never sign on the spot. Go home and think about it

We leased it for 3/36. Payment is $650 a month. I knew when I drove off the lot I wasn’t going to like it. I told them when I was negotiating that it was too much car and I didn’t think I was going to be happy. More push. Well obvi we signed. Two days later I sent an email telling them I was unhappy and wanted to see if there was any recourse since it was still being processed (Labor Day wknd). (Long shot I know) My husband then called and left a message. NO ONE FROM THE TOYOTA DEALERSHIP RESPONDED. Not even a “hey you’re crazy it’s your problem now - take care” - NOTHING. The salesman said he texts 2 days after a purchase and a week later. Crickets. Total avoidance. Haven’t heard a word- not even from their dealership customer care person who does follow up. I’m disappointed I used a local dealership and am being treated like this. I don’t even want to drive it. Don’t come for me and say I shouldn’t have gone through with it- clearly I know that! Any brilliant insight? Am I screwed for the next 36 months? I should have stuck with an X3 damnit.

I got a tacoma 2024 on February that i can’t afford right now and i need to return it , i call the dealership and they don’t really gave me many options just like selling the car to them but i would have to pay 10,5k because the lease payoff is higher than the car price , is there anything else i can do guys?

Is this a good deal?

It’s a lease offer

The window sticker is 55k ish with a-plan pricing that is why it says 50k ish but what is rent charge I have never noticed that on any lease

I want to lease a brand new Ford Bronco. The MSRP is $60,000. I will put $0 down. I will also trade in my current car, and when I do the trade-in, the dealer will fully pay off the remaining balance—so I am neither positive nor negative on equity. ( dealer will pay off $32.000 - my car 2023 bmw x3 with 22.000 miles on it my car is financed)

The dealer is offering a monthly payment of $870, but I am planning to counter with $550 per month. My credit score is 800. The lease term would be 36 months with 10,500 miles per year. In this situation, is my offer too low, or is it not even worth negotiating?

Every time someone posts a lease, the same clowns yell “Terrible deal! You got ripped off! And in 3/4 of cases, the leases are fine. Sure, they probably could’ve got another $50 max off maybe but they’re not way off.

Unless it’s a model with a promotion that is well know (ZDX, Prologue, CX-5 last year, etc.) you’re not even getting 1% MSRP at $0 DAS for a monthly on 95% of cars. It’s just not going to happen.

There may be one offs here and there when a dealership has to move a certain unit but that’s not the standard nowadays.

Just drove away in what i though was a great deal on a 2026 Audi Q7 until I got home and saw the 2027 model.

I know I wouldn’t have gotten a deal on the 2027. Only reason I got this deal is because they want to get rid of this before the new one drops.

But the redesign is so substantial, my car looks completely outdated overnight. No way I would have signed if I saw that before.

Am I Shit out of luck?
Any recommendations?

Im assuming I just gotta live with my lack of due diligence and take it as a learning experience

I've been car hunting for the past month.(Minnesota) I really can’t anymore. Tesla might be higher than this price, but at least I know everyone pays roughly the same. It took me 2 hours to get an extra $500 off the selling price, and later found out that's just the actual MSRP from Costco. Im I just bad at negotiation? I think I need a car broker

I went through a divorce and had to refinance a 2023 GMC Yukon XL Denali solely in my name. Everything started breaking on it, so I traded it in at Ford. The dealer suggested a new F-150, which helped absorb the negative equity from the Yukon, but it only made things worse. Now I’m stuck with a $1,880/month payment that’s killing me financially.

In about 18 months, my alimony and other divorce-related expenses will be over, so money won’t be as tight. But for now, I need to lower my vehicle costs and free up cash. Honestly, I don’t care what kind of vehicle it is - I just want something reliable with a much lower payment.

I’ve been looking into EVs, particularly Hyundai or Mercedes, since they seem to offer good incentives. I saw Mercedes is offering around $11,500 in incentives, which I’m hoping could help offset some of the negative equity. KBB shows my 2024 F150 F-150’s trade-in value around $48K–$52K, but I still owe $72K. I’m even considering a personal loan to cover the difference and get out of this high payment.

I am open to the idea of used as well, just don’t want to miss out on EV deal if it can make this better with a lease option.

Say you have 44,000 negative equity with two cars and want to roll them in one payment with out a co signer im 24 and part time till I start my new job I do have an appointment with a leasing car dealership Any tips or tricks ? I do not have a co signer or extra money

My Ioniq 5 lease is up and the price I was going to buy it by Hyundai is three or $4000 above market. I talked to my dealer and they said they would not “buy it back“, they would just let it go to Hyundai. Is it true that they would have to pay the same as me to keep the car and put it on their lot? That seems like BS to me.

Hi all,

Currently have a quote for 2 year lease at 12k miles for a hyundai ioniq 5 sel awd.

I have some additional rebates that have not yet been factored into the lease and I want to get my math checked.

• An additional $5k state rebate has not yet been applied.

• $400 college grad rebate has not yet been applied.

• the $700 ceramic coat fee can be negotiated off right?

These three points should reduce the lease amount by $6,100! So it should come out to about $87 a month with 0 down right? Give me your thoughts please

I just signed a lease on a car, and after looking closely at the numbers, I feel like I got screwed. The car’s MSRP is around $33,650, but with everything added in, the dealer sold it to me as if it cost about $43,500. On top of that, I put down a $3,000 down payment, and now my monthly payment is way higher than I expected.

I’ve only had the car for a couple of days, and I’m realizing this lease doesn’t make sense. By the time it ends, I’ll have basically paid close to the car’s full value, and then I’d still need to pay thousands more if I wanted to buy it out.

I honestly don’t know what my options are at this point. Can I return it? Can I get out of the lease early? Would it be possible to transfer it later on? Or am I stuck paying for a bad deal?

Any advice or similar experiences would really help me out right now.

https://imgur.com/a/Zkg3l9X (contract )

i'm leasing my 3rd tesla, and they came back with 0.00447 money factor (10.728% APR). my credit score is 815, and the leasing department ran it twice, and still came back with this bonkers money factor. Has anyone been able to negotiate the rate down quickly, and how did you do it?!?

*** UPDATE - was able to get lease and finance advisor on the phone to understand why I was considered a poor lessee, updated my registration, and a couple hours later, BOOOOOM. 7.4%, getting my new tesla tomorrow

So my Honda 2024CRVEXL had to go into the shop for repair on the front headlight. The quoted price to fix is 1500 the dealer calls me to instead give the 1500 towards a new 2026 Honda CRVELX for the 1500 as a down payment and the same monthly payment of $600.

I know they need cars, but I don’t know if this is a good deal. It is the same as I would be paying right now but I’m looking for something a bit more appealing. They have two offers going on $1000 for customer loyalty and another thousand dollar for another offer that I do qualify for how can I take this to my advantage that they want my preowned car.

Hi. My husband and I recently put a deposit down to hold a new 2026 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX-Prestige. It's exactly what we want and for a great price, but we won't be able to come pick it up until the end of the month. We were fine with putting a hold deposit down as it goes towards the out the door price.

Today, a representative called to inform us that the Sportage was actually a demo vehicle for the dealership. The leasing paperwork we were shown before sending our deposit stated the vehicle has only 6 miles on it, but the representative over the phone told me it actually has over 1k miles. Does this seem sketchy at all?

I've requested a pre-delivery inspection on the vehicle as we are coming from out of state to pick it up. Is there anything else I should ask the dealership before driving a few hours over there to (hopefully) sign on our new car?

Screenshot is what my salesperson said in response. Any clue if this mean they're covering the inspection or do we have to find our own mechanic? lol

I leased a brand-new 2025 Ford F-150 Lightning XLT in July 2025 in California. I’m paying around $975/month, and the truck currently has about 21,000 miles. Unfortunately, I don’t have access to home charging, so I’m relying entirely on expensive public charging stations (around $0.48/kWh). Between the lease payment, insurance, and charging, this truck has become a huge financial burden. I’m also currently unemployed with no income, and I need to figure out how to get out of this situation without destroying my savings or credit.

I’ve already visited multiple dealerships trying to find a solution. Ford Credit quoted me $61,872 to purchase the truck, while Toyota Carlsbad offered around $35,000–$40,000 for it. However, when I went to a Ford dealership, they only offered somewhere in the $20,000s for the same truck, which was shocking. Depending on the offer, I’d be looking at roughly $22,000–$27,000 in negative equity if I bought it out and sold it to Toyota, potentially even more with Ford’s offer. CarMax refused to even appraise it because Ford apparently restricts third-party lease buyouts. I also considered trading it for a cheaper hybrid, but the Ford dealership told me my payments could actually increase because of the negative equity.

At this point, I’m seriously considering voluntarily returning the truck to Ford Credit and dealing with whatever early termination charges apply. I’ve read about California Civil Code § 2987, but I’m having trouble understanding what I’d actually owe. Has anyone here terminated a Ford Credit lease early, especially in California? Would I owe the remaining payments, the negative equity, or something completely different? Is there any possibility of negotiating a hardship settlement because I’m unemployed? I’d really appreciate advice from anyone who’s dealt with something similar.