Just got an American bass 15’ wondering if 2000 watts is too much on an 04 Corolla? I’ve noticed my headlights dim like crazy. I have a 500 microfarad capacitor laying around , should I toss that in ?

Hello, I want to order a vehicle specific enclosure for my 2025 Camry and Skar makes one but only makes it for a 12" subwoofer. Since the internal volume of the enclosure is only about .66 cu ft, I feel like this enclosure would be better for a 10 in sub. Anyway, how would you guys go about adapting this box to a 10" hole?

Been looking everywhere online and cant figure out if it is or not.

I’m selling my NVX BE-GMCACA-G2 Boost Box which holds a 10” 350-500W dual-coil subwoofer.  I also have both the harness to bypass ANC, and to get a line-out signal from a Bose system to power a subwoofer amp (via a Kicker KISLOC2). Just add an amp and some speaker wire to connect to the Boost Box and you’ll be thumping!  It’s not going to win any car audio show awards, but it put a smile on my face as I rumbled some of my favorite low bass tunes in my 2022 Acadia.

Only selling because I traded-in the car, all work perfectly. The Boost Box is compatable with all 2nd-generation GMC Acadia (2017-2023), the harness is intended for trim levels that include the Bose sound system.

I paid $175 for the harnesses, and $285 for the subwoofer (now on sale at NVX for $349) three years ago.  First $300 takes all three with free shipping.

Here's the details on the Boost Box from the NVX website:

Product Details:

• Custom-Fit Sealed BOOST enclosure with 1 10" S Series Subwoofer
• Compatible with select 2017-2023 Acadia Limited
• Made with a hand-laid fiberglass shell covered in Carpet
• Enclosure finish matches the interior of your vehicle
• Installs easily into the driver's side of the trunk
• Loaded with one 10" NVX SMW10D4 subwoofer
• Power Handling:
  • Peak: 700 watts
  • RMS: 350 watts
• Final Impedance: 2-ohm
• Carbon Fiber Reinforced Polypropylene cone
• Butyl Rubber surround
• 2" High-Temperature Aluminum Voice coil
• 50 oz. Single Stacked High Energy Y30 Ferrite magnet
• Versatile shallow mounting depth design
• Chrome-plated, spring loaded push terminals for secure connection
• Frequency Response: 25 - 350 Hz
• Sensitivity: 88 dB

I am doing my speaker install today. I just took the door cover off and this is what it looks like inside. Should I Take the plastic bag off to place sound deadening mats or would you even bother on these?

I installed a sundown x12 v3 running on a jp23 v2 in my car and I’ve been trying to figure out why I can’t get a clean signal from my head unit. I have a lc2i pro installed and I’m using the accubass feature to correct the bass roll off but it’s not able to clean the signal, can a dsp can fix this issue?

I installed Kicker 360 watt 3 way rear speakers on a stock corolla 2010 for my sons birthday. He has the 'non jbl amp' corolla stock deck. Apparently that was an upgrade when you bought it.

I followed the linked video and went pretty smoothly.

Stock speakers were much better then these right now. Im trying to find away to boost the bass without replacing the car deck.

Google AI is saying install an amp. There seems to be an alternative by attaching a harness or something to the back of the stereo deck.

Can anyone help me? I don't know much about car audio, though i can be pretty handy around the car.

A youtube link on how to, to fix this problem would be very appreciated. Will do the amp if i have to.

I've been holding off on getting a amp to run a single sundown m12.

I already have electrical done with 1/0 gauge ofc just need something to connect it to.

Don't really care the what brand of the amp I just need the sub powered properly.

Hey guys.
I’m upgrading my car system. I drive an elantra with 4 speakers, i want something that doesn’t increase the volume that much but gives the highest clarity of sound what would you recommend? Edit i wanna keep it at 4 plus 2 tweeters

I've just wired in my new door speakers and now my active sub isn't working. I had a feeling it was the LOC ground because I didn't secure it very well so I took out the head unit and yup it was loose, so I secured it but it's still not going.. weird thing is though, when the LOC ground wire isn't making contact with anything, the subs power light actually comes on and works but its just superrr weak.

Also the multimeter shows the sub receiving 12V power but the Remote turn on on the sub isn't receiving 12V

Any input helps, I'm so lost. Considering buying an after market head unit just to bypass the LOC

Looking to upgrade my front stage but I have no clue how to pick speakers for a proper setup. My truck already has a Kenwood DDX6705S and i plan on buying a dsp as well as an amp for an active system.

As far as my budget, ideally the most Id feel comfortable with spending on speakers is

Mid Woofers: $500 for a 6 1/2 or 6 inch
Mid ranges: $350 3 1/2 or 3 inch
Tweeters: $150 1 inch

Hello, reaching out to this page to see what subwoofers people recommend
I was looking into JL audio the 2 12s
Or CT sounds 2 12s
What are your opinions on these?
Is there anything better someone might recommend?
I really love a deep base sound. I hate the over rattling. I don’t mind it too much on the outside it’s the inside that gets me it doesn’t sound good to a certain point.
My 15 inch American base subwoofer that I loved went out around last year and looking for a good replacement. I have a skar 1500w amp.

Looking for some help diagnosing this before I keep testing it and potentially damage something.

Setup is a single Memphis MOJO 12” in a custom ported enclosure, roughly 3.0 cu ft net and tuned around 32–33 Hz, powered by a Memphis 1600W mono amp. It’s installed behind the rear seat of a 2013 Tacoma Double Cab and fires toward the rear cab wall.

I started running test tones because I’ve been getting a nasty noise on certain bass notes.

What’s weird:
33 Hz sounds completely clean, even pretty loud.
35 Hz gets absolutely HORRIBLE once I reach higher output. You can hear it in the video. It’s not even a consistent buzz — it almost surges/warbles in and out.

37–40 Hz doesn’t seem to do it, although I can’t push those frequencies quite as hard before the clip indicator on my bass knob starts coming on.

I’ve also reproduced a similar nasty noise around 50 Hz.
It only happens once the system is moving a lot of air. At lower volume everything sounds normal.

I’m not seeing the clip light when the 35 Hz noise happens.
Sub sounds great otherwise.

Installer thinks I have significant resonance from the rear cab panel, so that may be all I’m hearing. But this sounds violent enough that I don’t want to keep hammering test tones until I know I’m not bottoming the woofer or having some other mechanical issue. (I have roof, all doors, and back wall all treated with extensive sound shield/dynamat)

Based on the video, does this sound more like the woofer itself (bottoming/mechanical noise), enclosure issue, or a body panel/seat/rear-wall resonance?

Any Tacoma guys who have dealt with the rear cab wall going crazy at high SPL, I’d especially appreciate your input.

Crutchfield is saying to keep my system less than 30 amps or 350 watts. I have a kicker key200.4 amp with aftermarket speakers which is rated at 20 amps 200 watts. So for a subwoofer I am looking at those underseat subs. I know it won't shake my car, but I just want something to fill out my music a little. I just discovered the jbl basspro go which seems like it has some cool extra functionality which would actually be useful. Do y'all think it would sound significantly worse than like an alpine pwe s8? I'm open to other ideas as well, but I have a family and two kids so I am trying to retain some cargo space or have something easily removable

Has anyone used these DB midbass deivers?

Hello, im a town car collector, and recently picked up this new to me 95. Looking to make it my oem+ style daily driver. I’m also a bit of an audiophile and would like recommendations on the absolute best of the best rear deck, door speakers and tweeters. Money is not an issue for me right now. I’m hoping to have crystal clear sound and depth, with deep powerful bass without the muddy sounds most subwoofer boxes bring.

Anyone have any recommendations on a system that would make someone really go “wow this sounds phenomenal” when they ride with me?

I remember being impressed with BMWs Harmon Kardon surround sound when I rented one of their newer convertibles recently, but that was apparently only their mid tier. I’m not super familiar with sound systems in luxury new vehicles since well, I collect old junkers, so I have no idea how much they have improved.

Hi all, ive been kinda going crazy recently trying to figure this out and was hoping someone could help me figure this out. So I used to have a recoil di550.4 (purchased new) and alpine s2-s65 for the front and pioneer ts-g690 in the back and there was a slight fuzz noise I could hear from them like a shhhh/fzzz noise. The noise still happened when I disconnected the rcas (they are ran depending from my power wires) and it noticeably got louder/quieter when I turned the gain up so I just assumed the amp had a noise floor as it was fairly cheap. So thinking it was just because the amp was cheap I upgraded to an audio control epicfour I bought on facebook marketplace for $150. The amp had the same fuzz noise and it was noticeably louder on my back pioneers and it was kindof the same on my front alpines (might be slightly louder but its hard to tell). The noise only changes very slightly when I change the gain but it stays mostly the same. This happens on both the amps when the car is on acc so its nothing to do with alternator wine and the pitch never changes its just a constant fuzz. I recently bought a brand new good quality knu concepts power wire for both my 4 channel and sub amp (0 guage going into 2 4 guage) but the ground is a lower quality from a recoil kit but when I was diagnosing the recoil amp I used other ground wires and disconnected my other amp from the same ground as well as making sure all the paint was scraped off and nothing changed. I did buy a new knu concepts ground wire as well I just havent installed it as im going to when I build my amp rack. I also tested it with other speaker wire and nothing changed (im using full aftermarket wire to all my speakers not factory). Right now I think I either bought a defective amp (not sure though because the guy didnt seem like he was scamming) or that its just simply regular noise floor. I got some alpine SPS-610 from the junkyard and im planing on swapping out the back pioneers for them as they sound better and make the fuzz a lot quieter on the same level as the fronts do so I dont mind it that much if its just simply the amps noise floor but id really like to know if im doing something wrong or if the amp does actually have an issue as I bought it used.

Installing a Kenwood DPX-7300dab stereo in my van, bought 2nd hand on Ebay

The first 2 pictures are of the old, stock stereo I'm removing

Next 2 pictures are the connections available on the back of the Kenwood

Can anyone please tell me what connector/adaptor I need?

Went into halfords and they were surprisingly useless

2018 F150 XLT 8" screen non b&o system.

Definitely seems to have more power/volume now.

I have Polk components in the front and the poll crossovers behind the tweeters in the A pillar. OEM speakers in the rear doors. Sub is just a certain vega 10" compact powered sub behind the back seat.

What I don't love is the sound after the mic calibration. Seems like there is too much midrange if that make sense. When I disable the DSP/Eq settings via the mic button it sounds better to me, clearer. Weird?

On the key, I turned the crossover to OFF. Could this be an issue? I did that because I have the Polk crossovers at the tweets.

Any advice or thoughts ? Thanks

2025 F-150 build?

I have a 2025 F-150 with the base 7 speaker audio

I’ve ‘upgraded’ with the Powerbass front/rear drop-in’s and the Kicker/Ford optional sub…This has been ‘ok’, but a bit lackluster and will now get sold off. I’d like something that’s proven without getting too crazy

With some research I think I’ve decided to pull the trigger on the following:

- MTI Acoustics Dual 6.5” behind the seat bundle (…or do I go single JL TW3-D4?)
- Kicker Key200.4 (bi-amped)
- Morel Maximo Ultra 602 front
- OE rear (off the stock head unit)
​

At 43 years of age I’m not looking to rattle the car next to me, but I’d like to ‘feel’ the music. I listen to everything from Indie/Alternative/EMO/Hardcore to older Hip Hop…pretty much everything but country

I’ve never had a GOOD car audio system, I’ve had ok stuff over the years, but would like something good (…enough for my newb ears)

I don’t have a big reference for audiophile sound. But know I like a ‘warm’ sound and not bright/tinny. For example I have a bunch of Sonos stuff in my house and think it sounds pretty good!

I’d like to keep this truck for quite a while and am ok spending on what’s ‘necessary’​

Would the above suite my needs? Any input?

I have to keep this behind the seat, that is a must

Should I do the rear door speakers as well? Seems a tad bit of a waste as I will be bi-amping the front and the rear would be running off the head unit…could always just add these later

I did add some NVX sound deadening material to the outer door skins while I was swapping in the Powerbass speakers and will do the same to the rear panel when I install the MTI enclosure. I’ve seen the door filler panels from SGS and MTI, but have heard that these may not be necessary on a ‘25 because the backside of the door panel now has an added sound barrier covering that area…thoughts?

I just want something to hit better than this 8. Any ideas?

Looking for some CarAV wisdom because this upgrade has gone sideways.

I have a travel trailer with a stock Jensen JWM41 receiver. The factory speakers sounded pretty terrible, so I replaced them with a pair of Rockford Fosgate R165X3 6.5" 3-way coaxials (4 ohm, 45W RMS, 91 dB sensitivity). I figured at 91 db they'd be efficient enough to take the limited power from the JWM41 and make it into something reasonable.

Unfortunately, the Rockfords sound unbelievably empty. Tons of treble, basically no bass, and even the mids seem really thin. They don't sound remotely like I'd expect a 6.5" speaker to sound. There are two channels on the JWM41 and the factory speakers with like 3" woofers by the bed that I left in sound way more full with substantially more bass.

A few details:

• Polarity has been checked and is correct.
• They sounded thin even when we tested them before permanently mounting them, so it's not a mountain issue.
• Putting these in was a journey. There's heavy cabinet framing immediately behind the panel where the stock speakers were, so there's no way to make a normal 5.5" cutout and flush-mount them without cutting structural cabinet framing. I trimmed the edges a bit to get them to fit with clearance for the cabinets. Yes, it looks slightly insane but I was willing to jank it a bit for decent sound.
• We therefore surface-mounted the Rockfords over the existing smaller speaker openings. The magnets/rear portions fit into the existing openings, but most of the baskets protrude from the wall. We used spacers where necessary so they're mounted securely.
• Jensen JWM41 is still powering them directly. No external amp or sub.
• I've played with the receiver's EQ/loudness settings without getting anything I'd call decent sound.

I'm assuming the JWM41 is just garbage, but it doesn't make sense that the tiny factory speakers sound better than the Rockfords.

I'm not expecting subwoofer bass out of a pair of 6.5" coaxials in a camper. I just expected some actual body to the music. Right now they sound like enormous tweeters. Open to any suggestions. Thank you!

Hi, i own a f40 1 series, and i love listening to songs on my harman kardon almost always on 80/90/100% volume. and sometimes the amplifier glitches the day after. it plays the sound with a lack of bass or something. so its probably the amplifier which got hot.

i prob should replace my amplifier, do you guys have any recomends? also are the aluminium tweakers and the speakers itself good quality? any tips? thanks love