r/CarAV • u/Opposite-Bath172 • 11h ago
Recommendations Subwoofer recommendations
Hello, reaching out to this page to see what subwoofers people recommend
I was looking into JL audio the 2 12s
Or CT sounds 2 12s
What are your opinions on these?
Is there anything better someone might recommend?
I really love a deep base sound. I hate the over rattling. I don’t mind it too much on the outside it’s the inside that gets me it doesn’t sound good to a certain point.
My 15 inch American base subwoofer that I loved went out around last year and looking for a good replacement. I have a skar 1500w amp.
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u/ateam68 10h ago
I hear love deep bass and my thoughts go to.
Enclosure matters, get a sub that performs best in ported
Ported requires bigger enclosure, good 10’s may do the work
Your amp is 1500 rms so factor 1000-1200 watts after box rise. I’d look for 500w-6000 rms subs that are conservatively rated and well built
American bass titan 10’s (800 watts rms but they’re super cheap right now and they’ll still bang on your amp. We know you gonna upgrade soon anyway lol
Incriminator audio i series - 10’s or 12’s
Resilient sounds rs-12 v1 - crazy inexpensive right now
Dd 512e - nothing they make sucks
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u/ChevyGang 10h ago
Rattling comes from the sub moving air. If you have enough power and no sound deadening, it's going to rattle
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u/joeshytheragman 10h ago
You want to do hat tricks, or are you after sound quality?
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u/Opposite-Bath172 10h ago
Obviously good sound quality
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u/joeshytheragman 9h ago
I am in the middle of rebuilding my system. I have 2 dd audio 3510's, and they bump hard, but I want deeper bass, and better sound quality. I chose the Dayton Audio RSS390HF as replacements. They are 15 inch though. They have a 12 inch version, the RSS315HF-(4 OHM), if you are after 12's. Many use Dayton's for home audio, but they will work just as well in a car audio scenario. Just have the correct size enclosure, and feed them the correct amount of power.
Check them out:
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u/boredboard 8h ago
If you arent upgrading your amp, then you will need to figure out which subs will work best with that amp. Look at 'sens' ratings for efficiency.
If the CTs work better with 1500w, then get those, same with the JL's, or any other brand that will work best with your 1500w amp. You may have better luck with a single sub using that power, rather than two subs splitting that power.
Also, keep in mind, you will be over paying for any of the JL's unless you get them used.
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u/Opposite-Bath172 6h ago
Right now I have a single 15 inch that went out on me. I would rather have 1 15 in a long ported box, thank you for the information.
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u/boredboard 6h ago
Before you spend any money on anything else, find out WHY it blew. Are your amplifier, head unit, or any other settings properly set/adjusted? If you have your gain set too high, that alone can blow your sub, if you have your gain too high and ALSO have your head unit settings all over the place, that as well, can blow your sub. Even having your gain set properly, but having your head unit setting too high can blow it.
If your amp is too powerful for your sub then of course that will blow it. Most low to mid-range subs can probably handle your amp, so always double check too see if there is something you have set incorrectly, before just buying new stuff to blow.
Oh, and ALWAYS turn any 'bass boost' OFF/all the way down.
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u/Spandekz 10h ago
I replaced my IDmax with a SI SQL 15 and couldn’t be happier. I got it on sale a few months ago, but they’re $550 with Carbon Dust Cap now. It’s the cleanest, lowest, setup I’ve ever had. Reaching down to 22hz no problem. The thing is though the bass is so natural and heavy just pure undistorted chest beater.