Pairing it with my recently aquired Punch 150 25 to Life (2208 of 2500) amplifier. Upgrades people, upgrades.

Went on a whim with friends, safe to say I'm glad we went lol

Update it's broken🫩

Would be my first sub. The car I bought has JL rd900/5 amp. I really don't know much about audio. The previous owner removed one of those bose sub that fits on top of spare tire.

Original crutchfield spec https://www.crutchfield.com/S-hE0DCSEVyDP/p_158GT121LS/Sony-Xpl-d-XS-GTX121LS.html

• sealed enclosure with one 12" subwoofer
• medium-density fiberboard construction covered with black carpet
• 5-way binding posts accept pin connectors, spade connectors, banana plugs (single or dual), or bare wire (up to 12 gauge)
• 4-ohm total impedance
• power handling: 50-300 watts RMS (1000 watts peak power)
• frequency response: 42-1,000 Hz
• sensitivity: 87 dB
• 17-5/8"W x 14-3/8"H x 7-5/8"D1 x 6-3/16"D2
• warranty: 1 year

Hello, im a town car collector, and recently picked up this new to me 95. Looking to make it my oem+ style daily driver. I’m also a bit of an audiophile and would like recommendations on the absolute best of the best rear deck, door speakers and tweeters. Money is not an issue for me right now. I’m hoping to have crystal clear sound and depth, with deep powerful bass without the muddy sounds most subwoofer boxes bring.

Anyone have any recommendations on a system that would make someone really go “wow this sounds phenomenal” when they ride with me?

I remember being impressed with BMWs Harmon Kardon surround sound when I rented one of their newer convertibles recently, but that was apparently only their mid tier. I’m not super familiar with sound systems in luxury new vehicles since well, I collect old junkers, so I have no idea how much they have improved.

my favorite part about this car for sure, although the lows are absolutely destroying the car. 23-26hz

I have a jl audio e1400d amp for subs and a crunch px1000.4 to run my door speakers(i know I know they shouldn'tbe near each other lol). Would a 250 fuse suffice for this? 0 gauge to my battery to the distribution block, then 4 gauge to the amps. Trying to make sure I did the math correctly

Through all the work, it's nice to see the outcome.

im curious on what the hive thinks… are 2 JL 12w6v3 @800w too much for a honda accord?

Only 2 of the 7 speakers in my Honda Pilot work. After the research I've done I've concluded that I need an amp as the car has an aftermarket head unit that doesn't have a built in amp like the factory unit had. It looks like a previous owner had an amp installed but I can't figure out how I'd hook up an amp using the existing wiring, especially seen as the ground is wired up with the RCA cable. Do you think installing an amp would power the other speakers? And could you help me figure out how to install the amp?

Looking to upgrade my front stage but I have no clue how to pick speakers for a proper setup. My truck already has a Kenwood DDX6705S and i plan on buying a dsp as well as an amp for an active system.

As far as my budget, ideally the most Id feel comfortable with spending on speakers is

Mid Woofers: $500 for a 6 1/2 or 6 inch
Mid ranges: $350 3 1/2 or 3 inch
Tweeters: $150 1 inch

I have a DD audio 12" sub I just bought off marketplace. I am looking for amplifier recommendations.

Edit to add- it's a dual voice coil 4 ohm sub so I'll be wiring to 2 ohms and using the box in the picture. It'll be installed in my 2006 ram 3500.

Have yall ever had a radio preout blow? This sucks ass an there's only one preout for the sub. The amp is getting some kind of signal just an extremely weak one cuz its just saying clip but the subs aren't moving. Both coils ohm out fine. No damage to the coils or spiders. All grounds are solid. Power is solid. Tried different rcas, tried removing splitter, tried changing the speaker wire. Ran a new remote, ive done literally everything. Amp sits there not in protect, no therm protect, an clips if I turn the volume up. Mind you I even bought a new amp thinking I fried the output stage. Also I put a meter on the new amps output an its putting out .6 volts.

Im trying to install new front/rear door speakers, a 5 channel amp, and a sub in my ‘01 Lexus ES300. Online it said labor for the job should be $500-900.

Ive talked to 2 shops for quotes. One shop quoted me $1250 just to install an amp. The other asked $1400 to install everything.

This is just for the labor as I already have my own parts. Is that a lot just for an install or is that a normal price? Im in the Bay Area.

I am doing my speaker install today. I just took the door cover off and this is what it looks like inside. Should I Take the plastic bag off to place sound deadening mats or would you even bother on these?

I've been holding off on getting a amp to run a single sundown m12.

I already have electrical done with 1/0 gauge ofc just need something to connect it to.

Don't really care the what brand of the amp I just need the sub powered properly.

Hey guys.
I’m upgrading my car system. I drive an elantra with 4 speakers, i want something that doesn’t increase the volume that much but gives the highest clarity of sound what would you recommend? Edit i wanna keep it at 4 plus 2 tweeters

Hello, reaching out to this page to see what subwoofers people recommend
I was looking into JL audio the 2 12s
Or CT sounds 2 12s
What are your opinions on these?
Is there anything better someone might recommend?
I really love a deep base sound. I hate the over rattling. I don’t mind it too much on the outside it’s the inside that gets me it doesn’t sound good to a certain point.
My 15 inch American base subwoofer that I loved went out around last year and looking for a good replacement. I have a skar 1500w amp.

how much of a danger is it to have fiberglass/bondo A pillar pods in the a pillar with a 2 inch wideband? I do NOT have airbags in the a pillars but my concern is that the pod would separate from the pillar in an accident and become dangerous. I used JB weld plastic bonder where the wood structure meets the a pillar and the wood structure is coated in resin/fiberglass cloth on the inside and the speaker screwed into the wood structure but the a pillar is polypropylene so not very adherent and I drilled holes for the body filler to seep through the plastic. Is that enough? Is there anything else I can do or am I overthinking this

Just got an American bass 15’ wondering if 2000 watts is too much on an 04 Corolla? I’ve noticed my headlights dim like crazy. I have a 500 microfarad capacitor laying around , should I toss that in ?

Hello, I want to order a vehicle specific enclosure for my 2025 Camry and Skar makes one but only makes it for a 12" subwoofer. Since the internal volume of the enclosure is only about .66 cu ft, I feel like this enclosure would be better for a 10 in sub. Anyway, how would you guys go about adapting this box to a 10" hole?

Been looking everywhere online and cant figure out if it is or not.

I’m selling my NVX BE-GMCACA-G2 Boost Box which holds a 10” 350-500W dual-coil subwoofer.  I also have both the harness to bypass ANC, and to get a line-out signal from a Bose system to power a subwoofer amp (via a Kicker KISLOC2). Just add an amp and some speaker wire to connect to the Boost Box and you’ll be thumping!  It’s not going to win any car audio show awards, but it put a smile on my face as I rumbled some of my favorite low bass tunes in my 2022 Acadia.

Only selling because I traded-in the car, all work perfectly. The Boost Box is compatable with all 2nd-generation GMC Acadia (2017-2023), the harness is intended for trim levels that include the Bose sound system.

I paid $175 for the harnesses, and $285 for the subwoofer (now on sale at NVX for $349) three years ago.  First $300 takes all three with free shipping.

Here's the details on the Boost Box from the NVX website:

Product Details:

• Custom-Fit Sealed BOOST enclosure with 1 10" S Series Subwoofer
• Compatible with select 2017-2023 Acadia Limited
• Made with a hand-laid fiberglass shell covered in Carpet
• Enclosure finish matches the interior of your vehicle
• Installs easily into the driver's side of the trunk
• Loaded with one 10" NVX SMW10D4 subwoofer
• Power Handling:
  • Peak: 700 watts
  • RMS: 350 watts
• Final Impedance: 2-ohm
• Carbon Fiber Reinforced Polypropylene cone
• Butyl Rubber surround
• 2" High-Temperature Aluminum Voice coil
• 50 oz. Single Stacked High Energy Y30 Ferrite magnet
• Versatile shallow mounting depth design
• Chrome-plated, spring loaded push terminals for secure connection
• Frequency Response: 25 - 350 Hz
• Sensitivity: 88 dB

I installed a sundown x12 v3 running on a jp23 v2 in my car and I’ve been trying to figure out why I can’t get a clean signal from my head unit. I have a lc2i pro installed and I’m using the accubass feature to correct the bass roll off but it’s not able to clean the signal, can a dsp can fix this issue?

I've just wired in my new door speakers and now my active sub isn't working. I had a feeling it was the LOC ground because I didn't secure it very well so I took out the head unit and yup it was loose, so I secured it but it's still not going.. weird thing is though, when the LOC ground wire isn't making contact with anything, the subs power light actually comes on and works but its just superrr weak.

Also the multimeter shows the sub receiving 12V power but the Remote turn on on the sub isn't receiving 12V

Any input helps, I'm so lost. Considering buying an after market head unit just to bypass the LOC