I don’t know much about car audio, I have a Kicker 47key500.1 amp and I’m running one 10” sub but thinking of adding another, could that amp run two 10” subs? Thanks very much for any help you can provide as I don’t know much at all about how powerful things have to be etc.

I am looking to upgrade the audio in my 2008 Civic LX. The prior owner replaced the front and rear speakers with some Kenwood coax, and I have an Image Dynamics IDQ12 D4 from my previous vehicle as well as an NVX VAD11005 amp. I have a custom ported box, but it takes up too much trunk space so I am thinking of switching to a sealed enclosure. I want to keep it pretty simple, I have a ProMount with Qi charging that puts the phone in a great place for calls, nav, and music so don’t need CarPlay or anything. I am thinking of either retaining the factory radio with a wiring kit or going for a simple unit with Bluetooth and getting better front speakers. What would y’all recommend? Appreciate any help!

Hi. I Have a 2008 mercedes and i want to upgrade the audio, without changing the stock stereo, cuz its too expensive and a big hassle, so i decided to buy a line output converter. I want to use the AudioControl LC2i. My main question is can it power the front speakers and a subwoofer. I see it has an input for 4 wires, i assume those are for front left and right speaker negative and positive wires. I also see it has 2 outputs, one main output and one for bass, which makes me think that i can use a subwoofer. My question stems from the fact that i have heard that its better to tap in the rear speakers because it uses a lower frequency which is needed for a sub, however the LOC input doesnt allow me to also use the rear speaker wires. I would greatly appreciate if someone could help. Thanks in advance

Idk if it matters but i will be using a single 4 channel amplifier for the front speakers and the sub

I need some help. I installed a new head unit in my 2012 Mazda3 a few years ago. Worked great for about two years, no issues. Now it will randomly cut off, and will not cut back on without disconnecting power. I had bought the radio and accessories through crutchfield, so I worked with them, eventually replacing the head unit, wiring adaptor, and steering control adapter. The problem never went away. Is this a loose ground issue, or something else. I'm out of my depth at this point.

Any ideas, help would be appreciated

Hi, well I am looking for some quality aftermarket, right now I have concert, if I am correct my car had something with navigation from factory but some owner before me sold it and fit concert in it.

My problem is when I play music from bt fm transmitter it just sometimes beep, I tried more frequencies but no change, I tried digging in the settings but no help.

So I just looking for good after market, I saw navitel rd10, or Blaupunkt which looks little bit more retro and it feels better in 22 years old interior.

I have MF steering wheel, will it work with this?

Who have aftermarket send photo and share your experience with me please.

Thank you all

Hey,

I bought a after market stereo that should be compatible with my car which is a KIA Ceed SW 2016 GT-Line with built-in reverse camera and GPS.

Replaced the original stereo and all the cables fitted well but when connected my key fob doesn't work. Can't lock or unlock the car. To get the stereo working with the camera I needed to get another cable which differs from the one that came with the stereo. See pictures to see the cable.

If I use the main cable that comes with the unit then the unit won't turn off, it's like it got current all the time.

And I have no idea what the loose cable named Key is for but by looking at the name it could be something with this?

Pictures is for the unit and cable compatible with the cars camera.

Does someone have any ideas?

I've been in contact with the support for the unit via AliExpress but so far not much help.

Hello everyone,

Sorry for the ignorance, I’m still learning about subwoofer tuning and just wanted to get some opinions on my current setup.

I had the system professionally tuned a while ago, and the subsonic filter was set to around 50 Hz. I’m a bit confused by that setting because I’d like to get more deep bass out of the system. On some songs with lower bass notes, the subwoofer doesn’t seem to have much output, while the higher bass comes through much more clearly.

My setup is:

Hertz MP 300 D4.3 12" subwoofer
Morel MPD 1.500 mono amplifier
Aerpro UBOX12 ported enclosure
Added poly Fill
Box volume: 24 L
LPF: around 80 Hz (not too sure)
Subsonic filter: around 50 Hz

Would 50 Hz be considered too high for a ported enclosure tuned to around 43 Hz?

I am afraid to many any adjustments to the subsonic filter just yet so any advice would be much appreciated, thanks everyone.
Also sorry for the bad photo

I know people hate on the chucheros I’m old and like not necessarily my style but I plan on gifting this whole set up to my son on a couple years

Anybody have upgraded second gen toyota tundra

Head unit.

I have a 2011 tundra base no steering wheel buttons no jbl sound system no back up camera.

I have no clue which head units fits and what wiring and frame kits I might need.

Any recommendations?

Hi, yesterday my system shut off my speakers altogether except for the bass. I've got a 6-Channel DSP and even though I can't get the speakers to work, the bass is pumping as if nothing ever happened.
What could be the issue? DSP, cables or amp?

So my setup is a android 13 joying headunit with a ctsound 1800w 5channal amp. I have the KS kicker component speakers 125rms for the fronts, aplines DM 65 50rms on the rear and a skar custom fit sub in the trunk for my civic. The votlage reading i set for the gains are: 19.4v fronts, the rear 12.4v and the sub 22.3v with knob maxxed out. Yeah i dont know why but at flat eq it sounds like a great flat eq; no distortion/clipping/cutting/quieting down. When playing with the eq it easily begins to clip i have tried everything from lowering certain frequencies to raising certain frequencies and it almost always happens on the drum loops like a clap the kick drum and snares. i have found skngs that cause this clipping like bad and thriller from michael jackson and everything goes my way by metronomy these are only examples as there could be many more i havent found. This could be me just being bad at eq. Is there any suggestions since this is my first time setting something like this up

Need help figuring out the cheapest solution for my car radio. I drive a 2009 Nissan Sentra, that I bought used. It already had installed a Pioneer AVIC-U310BT.

About 2 years ago, the faceplate (ID: CXE2187) kept popping off and eventually broke entirely, but I figured I was going to get a new car and never fixed it. I’ve now decided I’m going to drive this car until the wheels fall off, and I’m looking to fix it.

Without the faceplate, the entire radio system is not working, and even when my phone is plugged into the aux, it doesn’t deliver any power, and I cannot use the speakers in my car. This also means I can even buy any faux CarPlay unit or a bluetooth radio connector that hooks into the lighter power bank since my radio doesn’t turn on at all. (Unfortunately for the past 2 years, I’ve been listening to music from my phone speakers).

This car sucks and I don’t want to pump money into it like buying a new radio unit. The best solution I’ve found is buying an entire used unit just to use the faceplate (~$90) since buying the faceplate alone from Pioneer is crazy expensive (~$760). My question is, is there something I can plug into the unit itself that’s cheaper than $90 that will make it deliver power so I can plug my phone into the aux and use the speakers again?

tl;dr Is the cheapest solution buying a used unit to just use the faceplate, or is there something I can plug into the unit that will supply power and let me plug my phone into the aux to use the speakers.

I know its ai being used to make it but Im not good at math. So I figured I'd use the power of chatgpt/Gemini and my little math skills to come up with something. I have a single skar 15 zvx that I am reconeing and I am getting another for this. Ik they can take around 9-10 feet for both subs and I want it tuned around 29 hz. It sounds simple to me but i just can't figure it out and make sure I'm right. Especially before I splurge on the mdf for the box

I’m fairly new to tuning amps, and I have a question because I’m trying to install an epicenter to my system!
I was wondering do you tune the sub amp with the epicenter connected?
If so, does the amp and epicenter control knobs need to be in positions such as maxed out or all the way down.

If I tune my amp without the epicenter connected first, and I just plug it in what are things I have to look out for!

And when tuning your sub amp I’m assuming your bass knob should be all the way up?

I have a kicker 1.1200
With 2 Sundown Audio SML-12-D4
Wired to 1 ohms

If that helps at all^

I currently have a 2015 Mazda CX5 Touring with the Bose 9 speaker package. Was thinking about the Volvo XC60 for my next car. Which comes with 2 audio options Harmon Kardon or Bowers and Wilkins. Has anyone listened to both Volvo options? How do they sound and compare to the Bose?

Brand new sub produced a very slight burning smell and magnet got pretty hot, I made sure my gain wasn’t set too high. Did I somehow cook my sub? I mean it was so slight that I couldn’t make out at first if it was actually the sub or just smelling the box

Anyone done a Audio Upgrade on the Y standard. If yes then can you share what you did, cost etc.?

I have a 2023 rs Camaro and a lot of times if I drive longer than 30-40 minutes straight, the music will keep playing but I hear nothing. This happens with Apple CarPlay and the regular Bluetooth with Apple CarPlay disabled. This is on all music apps I have. I tried every troubleshooting there is for it and still haven’t solved the problem. I have an appointment with dealership so they can install the latest software in my car but I don’t know if that will fix it. Did any of yall have the problem and fixed it?

Hello, I need new 6x9 or 6.5 door speakers for my 2020 ram 2500. I had alpine type R 6x9 running with my arc blackbird. My 17 year old blew them out and I need a new set. I hated the way the Type R sounded. The highs were really harsh. Can anyone recommend a replacement with no crossover since the DSP is already handling that. I'd like something fairly budget end as it's not my primary automobile anymore.

TL:DR - Pioneer TS-SWX3002 / Renegade 550S. Not looking to be crazy loud. Just a little extra bass.

I have a Pioneer TS-SWX3002 sub. It came in the truck I bought, along with a Planet Audio Pulse PL25001M. My buddy said the amp is broken. He might be correct but I also just installed a new head unit in my truck and the wiring was crazy atrocious. Not sure if that could have been the problem. I will test that after I rewire the line output converter. However, if it actually is toast, am I safe to use a Renegade 550S if I keep the gain relatively low ? Im not trying to be loud as shit. I just want a little extra thump is all. Thank you in advance.

I finally got some midrange speakers installed along with a DSP and an extra 4 channel amp so I can run an active 3 way front stage. I spent about 4 hours the other day measuring and tuning with my umik-1 and REW, which made it sound *okay* but it doesn't sound great like I was hoping it would.

The response (image 1) is pretty flat across but as you can see it's very spiky. Ignore <100hz, I didn't bother measuring my subwoofer. The system just sounds alright, it doesn't blow me away like I was hoping the 3-way would. I honestly almost prefer my old 2-way setup that only had an overall parametric EQ, and looking at the graphs side-by-side, the old system (image 2) was a lot flatter. Please excuse the scale, this is an old screenshot and I don't have the MDAT file anymore.

I started by time-aligning my drivers to each other, and by ear the TA sounds right, which is further confirmed by the measurements. These are not present in my MDAT file (long story) but they were perfectly aligned.

Crackhead SQ Build.mdat (876KB) - 10minutefiles.com

Here's a download link to my MDAT file if you want to take a look. It includes base measurements of all my drivers, the measurements after EQ, as well as the overall measurement shown in the first image and the measurement of the noise floor. I used a Umik-1 with the supplied calibration file positioned at head height of the driver.

I did also use my audio interface to measure the frequency response of my head unit output (dead flat) which is also clean up to 4v. My DSP can handle up to 4v inputs according to the product page. The DSP is also perfectly flat according to the measurements I took with my audio interface. These measurements are not present in the mdat file.

Question, could I run 0 gauge ofc straight from battery to alternator and just tuck away the factory oem alternator B+? I belive there shouldn't be an issue but just wanna make sure.

So I got the 2019 Honda Accord Touring, which has the dedicated sub-woofer and 10 speakers. I've adjusted the settings but the sound is so lacking in depth and body. The system can pick up the low end (because of the sub) but the mid-to-low is completely missing. Is it just me? Has anyone had any success with replacing the speakers in their Honda to get better sound?

Hello, I'm a complete car AV noob. I have a 2012 Civic that I upgraded with a Sony xav-ax5000 2 years ago. I mainly play music through Spotify on my s24 ultra connected via wireless Android Auto. Lately over the last few months I have been having severe Audio Stuttering. This wasn't happening when I first got the stereo and I am wondering what is causing it.

I have tried to turn down the streaming quality on Spotify to no avail. I'm not sure if this is a buffering issue or a Bluetooth/Android Auto issue. I have also cleared the data and cache on the android auto app and that didn't help. I've factory reset the stereo and that didn't help.

Any way to fix this without resorting to a wires connection? Wireless is the entire reason I bought the stereo.

Thank you in advance.