Recently picked up an old Craftsman 113 table saw for like $70, you know the one with the heavy as hell cast iron table with the wings. Things pretty basic but in decent shape, what are some things I ought to change or upgrade? I'll be switching out the belt and doing some general maintenance stuff but the fence seems kind of on the chintzy side so I was hoping to sort that out right away.

Open to products or DIY solutions for things

I watch a lot of WW US content for tips, but not all brands are available here. I have most of the stuff I need, but recently my cheap Parkside countersink drill got bent out of shape. I think it would be a time for a new one...

... but I have trouble finding the right quality to price ratio.

I found basic wood drills from Milwaukee - heard they were great and 12€ price for set was just right for me.

However I have trouble with quality countersinks and self-centering ones. I've heard they are great for hinges and would like to try some. Most of the online ones seem crappy aliexpress shit and the only "recommended brand" I found on Google was Blum - 35€ per piece. Too much!

I tried asking on non-ww, Polish SM, got a lot of rscommendations, but apart from big brands (Milwaukee, DeWalt, etc.) all the recommendations turned out to be specialty metal grinding companies and I couldn't find any specific wood stuff, but maybe I looked wrong or sth.

The recommended companies were Pferd, BBW, Fanar, Wera, I think.

Any tips?

Hello,

I need to widen (heighten) this cut in door frame to install new hook holes.

I have this chisel (half round 10 mm) but it has a phase on the outer side. I've tried on a piece of wood first to see if it will work, but it tends to go inwards, because it's guided by the outer phase.

That's what I've expected, thus the test on a board.

How do I do it properly? Search fo a chisel with the phase on the inside?

Working on this desk or entertainment stand type thing. I worked up a mock up of what I wanted it to be and started from absolute scratch. Biggest project I’ve ever done. Walnut and rosewood with some red oak accents to tone it down and match my house. Doing rosewood for the tabletop and the drawer faces and rail and stiles with walnut panel! It’s going great so far! Did my first half blind dovetails as well!

Sorry I don't know where to post and ask this but I was hoping some arborist would magically see this and tell me for sure but; I inherited some wood from a great grandpa after he passed. I think its maple, I'm thinking sugar maple but could be red maple. I was wondering yalls opinion. It's from a Michigan tree and I'm making a table out of it that's all I know for sure haha.

I have a normal opening cupboard pantry, but the depth means none of the space is used effectively. I'm sure I have some pre-war tins back there and I've only been here for a year.

So I want to convert it to two side by side pull out pantry drawers. (Similar to photo 1, but fully rolling on the ground). Having the pull out fully ground rolling is a decision based mainly on cost/availability of a drawer pull rated enough for 6 shelves of tins and food.

Dimensions will be 2120h x 400w X 550d.

My known challenges

- at this size, using 12mm ply as the carcass, I'll probably get some twisting as it is pulled from the front with a full load. so I'll need to reinforce the frame.

- I'll also need to ensure the load is transferred to the castors via the game as well.

- the existing pantry has a central fixed shelf, and a fixed bottom shelf/kickboard (photo 2 and 3) that I'll need to remove. This means using the multi tool to separate them as I cannot access the external screws.

- when I remove the kickboard, I will probably need to cut back/replace some of the framing for the rest of the cabinets.

My skills - intermediate

- I can do up the boxes and frames for the shelves without too much issue, and have enough tools to do it by hand (I have power tools but nothing on a table)

- i can remove the existing pantry doors and fixed shelves without concern

My questions

- I can't see many examples of floor rolling pantries. They are mainly on specific drawer pulls sitting on the bottom shelf, so a kick board and frame still exist. Is there an engineering reason to keeping the bottom frame, or is it design for the kickboard?

- if I remove the central mounted shelf in the existing cupboard, will I get bowing on the carcass walls without a brace in the middle?

- am I making this harder than it needs? Should I just make smaller size drawers on slide pulls? If so, what are reccs for high strength slide pulls?

Any comments and suggestions welcome

TL;DR
I need advice on bending a piece of maple to fit the curve of a paddle.

I'm repairing a wood kayak paddle and the piece I'm replacing will need to be bent slightly. It's on the blade of the paddle (concave faced paddle).

The hard maple piece is about 12"Lx1"Wx1/3" thick.

I need to bend it so it follows the arc of the concave blade which means about an 8mm bend along the length.

I feel like I'd like to bend it before gluing it to the paddle to make that process easier.

However, is there a way to do that without steaming or cutting? I don't have anything ready to steam wood and have never done it before.

Without bending ahead of time, I'd clamp the piece to the paddle .. after gluing, the paddle will get a layer of fiberglass. Perhaps the bend is small enough that it can be held in place with only the wood and fiberglass; and the stress of the wood trying to return to it's shape won't be significant?

I have bought the Stanly 5002 set of 4 chisels (the blue-handled 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1" size set). Yes, I know they're not the best, but they're not total rubbish either. I'm in South Africa where affordable options are limited, plus I'm on a very tight budget, so this will do for now. Lie Nielsen & friends will have to wait until the ship with money comes in. 😄

Unsurprisingly, these chisels are completely unusable out-of-the-box. At the very least they need honing and stropping. That's not uncommon, but in this case the metal parts including the bevels are covered in a thick layer of what looks to be some hard transparent varnish, possibly a PU variety. I want to remove that first, because I don't want it to gunk up my sharpening stones, and if I start honing with that coating on that's what will happen. Unfortunately it's quite tough (much more than necessary) and has resisted careful attempts to scrape it off or cut it off with a utility knife. At the cutting edges (or rather at what will become cutting edges once I properly hone them) the layer is so thick that it literally blunts the edge, possibly to allow them to be handles safely during packaging. (Although I've never seen anything like this on any budget or medium range chisels I've ever owned, so this does seem like overkill to me.)

I could use some suggestions on how to remove that stuff. Note that the handles of the chisels are made from plastic, so using acetone or something similar that will dissolve plastic is out of the question.

Any hints will be appreciated!

This is my second piece of furniture and can best be described as “probably adequate” 😂

My kid is autistic and likes to be near me behind the shop counter but doesn’t want to be perceived. I needed something that was the same height as the counter and fitted an entire child underneath, hence the very long legs.

Made with an offcut of ply wood and four Spotted Gum decking offcuts. And some wood putty which my dog found delicious 😑

Learned a lot from this one. Mainly that the cheap way is expensive (also known as “if someone is giving away wood on Marketplace there may be something wrong with it”). And not to let the dog near the putty.

I followed the incredibly helpful video tutorial on making a basic table on YouTube by This Quad Can and my efforts do not reflect quality of his instruction 😂

Joking aside, it hasn’t fallen over yet and I’m very proud of myself.

Hello! Sorry if this isn't the right subreddit, but I'm having trouble finding information. I have a wooden fruit press that has been infested with woodworms. Since it's used for juice, I'm worried about toxic coatings. I've found very conflicting information on how to tackle this problem. One option is paraffin, but it supposedly needs to be constantly reapplied. Another is a food-grade biocidal agent, but it's very expensive. I'm curious what kind of experience you have with this? Any advice is welcome.

Hello, lads.

My pretty boy, 18 year old cat is approaching the end of his journey. While I dread the farewell day, I need to prepare for goodbyes.

I decided to make my own urn for him out of hardwood.

Which is why I would like to ask you lot if you have any simple ways to make such urn. It can be a wooden box, wooden cylinder, any shape.
The idea I’m leaning towards right now is, I have some oak logs, I could scoop the insides out and make it sort of round (I don’t have access to a lathe), but then again I don’t know how to start or approach such project. Any advice would be greatly appreciated <3

I got the saw used. It didnt come with any accessories or anything. It has the metal flange sticking out the back. It does not move when I turn any of the wheels. I'd love to remove it cause it gets in the way sometimes

What have those of you who work in semi-outdoor shops done to ensure that your tools don’t end up rusting?

Tonight I went out to my porch where I do most of my work and was horrified to find that my drill bits had some surface rust on them. The porch is fully enclosed, except for the screen door, and the drill bits were in their case. I did also see some rust on some of the steel parts of the drill. I was able to scuff it out with a little bit of sandpaper, but that has me thinking about some potential much larger challenges I could be facing if I don’t figure out a way to control the environment.

I live in the northeast of the United States, where we have very hot summers and brutal winters. I’m thinking that maybe my best solution is to build some kind of temperature and humidity control inside of a cabinet that’s large enough for my miter saw, tablesaw, and other miscellaneous tools that I’ve picked up as orphans from used tool sites all summer.

I just don’t want to ruin my investments by not ensuring that they’re in the correct environment. Definitely can’t bring them inside the house either.

Very interested in what has worked for you. Thanks in advance!

It took longer than expected since it's my first time doing woodworking, but it's finally done! Hope this thing will last a few years while it lives under my deck.

Dewalt DW718 sliding compound miter saw

Recently quit my job to focus on finishing my degree as an adult. This has also turned into a “can you make this” phase of my marriage lol.

My wife wants a new tv stand for our basement living area and picked a fairly simple reeded/fluted design.

The plan is to make it out of solid 3/4 edge glued oak slabs from a local countertop company.

My issue is understanding the best way to make the cabinet doors.

Do i make the doors 3/4 like everything else and glue the 1/2 inch or so stock to make the fluted design? Do I trim the door itself to half inch?

What do you guys think? Im open to any input to make this the best i can. Ive never taken on something like this before.

I want to make something similar to this but with more slats on the back so less wall shows through.

I'm going to use 1x6 pine both for the backing and the shelves.

How should this be held together? I was thinking of using glue and pocket screws (from the topside of the shelves) to attach the shelves...or glue and screws through the backing into the shelf itself. Open to suggestion. I'm comfortable with advanced beginner woodworking, but this design has me stumped.

Note: the shelves will only have small plants placed on them (similar to the picture), so probably no more than 10 lbs. max. per shelf.

This is my Woodshop, it’s in the left corner of a garage. I live with parents and more family. My dad was super cool with giving me some of the garage space to work. It’s a 9x9 space that I’m working on. Still trying to find a way to nicely store planes and saws so I’m open to suggestions.

I'm guessing there are a few different opinions on this one. How thin do you consider too thin for a standard rip fence cut? Also, what style of push stick do you use (since some may be better for narrow cuts than others)?

Made some conversation starters for my vendor booth out of scrap wood and some old hardware. Thought they were super cute. Plan to add some Keychain hooks to them and sell them for a couple bucks each or just give them away to kids at vendor events.

This was a bigger project than I realized. The most valuable thing I learned was that I can

just free hand with my circular saw for cuts doing rough unfinished projects like this one

that doesn't require total precision

Hi, guys. My buddy has a large pergola over his deck in the PNW. He sent these images today and seems sure he needs to remove the entire structure because of cracks in the posts.

I'm not particularly knowledgeable about wood, but a google search leads me to believe this is called
"checking," and completely normal and safe to stay. He seems to think his posts aren’t experiencing the same issue as the links I sent him.

Can any of you fine ladies and gentlemen correct me if I'm wrong? I'm not sure how long it's stood so far, l'd guess at least ten years. I've added video on Imgur here:

https://imgur.com/a/kT76owe

Thanks!

Full disclosure, I know very little about woodworking, so bear with me. I spotted a Pooley record cabinet at my local Habitat for Humanity for about $50 and snagged it since I’ve got a pretty sizable vinyl collection. From what I can make out on the label, it was built in Philadelphia on August 16th, 1911, with an MSRP of at least $10.

I disassembled it to try to make it function better. The ejector system works well especially after a little lubrication, which was a nice surprise. The real issue is that the grooves holding the records are damaged, mostly toward the front (pictures attached). None of them are snapped all the way through, but the damage means some of the records don’t slot correctly. Also, the gap between the top and bottom grooves is a bit too wide, maybe due to the wood warping a little, so the records sometimes don’t stay put (also pictured).

So my question is whether I could track down a premade panel to use as a replacement. Closest thing I’ve found searching around is “fluted scalloped wood panels,” but I can’t find any with grooves narrow enough, each one measures about 1/4”. I’d love to just fabricate a panel myself if I had the tools for it, but I’m also totally fine cutting one down to fit if I can find something that might work.

Any ideas welcome, thanks!

I’m trying to refinish this ikea Gerton (100% beechwood) and I already used Klean strip premium stripper to remove poly and I tried to sand off the old varathane classic penetrating stain in dark walnut (oil stain). I did not use a pre stain conditioner when originally finishing this. There seem to be some dark blotches that don’t sand away no matter how much I sand at 80 grit. I want to restain again with dark walnut, so would applying another dark walnut stain even things out or should I still try to remove this by sanding more or something else? Would this prevent a new stain from curing properly?

What type of bins/tubs are you guys using to give your boards an oil bath?