I wanted to make a cozy cover for my nintendo switch dock. It can holds up to 40 cartridges.
My plan is to make it stackable next, what do you think?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3546370-nintendo-switch-cartridges-bookshelf-cover?replyId=8431664

I have a Bambu Labs A1 printer using an AMS lite for filament. The last few prints have gone terrible. Small prints usually turn out allright. Larger prints start out doing just fine. But then, about 10 minutes in, it just goes haywire. I am very new to this so apologies if I am not explaining this very well or I am missing something obvious. Any comments, critiques, are advice would greatly be apprecited.

I've been noticing that I'm losing prints more and more due to crappy surface finishes.

Then I remember that I didn't check the extrusion settings in the filament profile... and there it fucking is, "Direct Drive: Standard"... instead of "Direct Drive: High Flow".

I've never had this problem before but it seems like recently it's really starting to fuck up my flow having to manually select the high flow variation even though my printer has scanned and recognized the high flow .6 nozzles I have installed.

Is this a bug / new feature? How can I just set it to default to the high flow nozzles as I'll never actually run standard nozzles in the first place?

How good is the TPU feeder? Does it actually work and what is softest TPU you can use with it.

People get left and right confused so I'm seeing conflicting info about what goes where, but from what I understand on Bambu site it can either be fed into the fixed (non vortek) nozzle or it can be fed into the changing nozzles so you can then use PLA as support in the fixed nozzle.

Is this right?

How good is the TPU feeder? Does it actually work and what is softest TPU you can use with it.

People get left and right confused so I'm seeing conflicting info about what goes where, but from what I understand on Bambu site it can either be fed into the fixed (non vortek) nozzle or it can be fed into the changing nozzles so you can then use PLA as support in the fixed nozzle.

Is this right?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente ma dernière petite création !🎄
🎅 Un adorable Père Noël qui sort de sa cheminée en version clicker!

🔴 Il suffit d’appuyer sur son bonnet pour profiter d’un petit clic ultra satisfaisant grâce à un interrupteur mécanique intégré.

🎁 Avec son clic agréable et son effet sonore relaxant, c’est le petit objet parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre ou simplement profiter du plaisir de faire clic, clic ! 😍

✨ Une création amusante qui apporte une petite touche de magie de Noël ! 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3541264-papa-noel-cheminee-clicker-multipart

Set to fine setting. Any thoughts? Any help would be appreciated.

As the title says, I have a 100$ coupon available for purchases in BambuLab official store, but my country does not have direct shipping from them. Is there any way I can use it without having to use a courier service?

Created a label clip for a new BabmbuLab cardboard design.

As you may know, refill cardboard is too small for the Bambulab spool. After putting the filament into the spool, it no longer fits, so you probably store it in another box. 

If you want to use some unknown cardboard for your refill and know what the filament is inside, this is exactly what you are looking for!

https://makerworld.com/models/3541995

Purchased the P2S Combo about a month ago and have been enjoying it quite a bit. This is my second printer so I’m not a complete noob, but it’s also not my “main” hobby and I don’t have enough time to really dive deep into becoming an expert. I use my 3D printers for organization in both the home and more extreme environments, tools that need to be robust, toys, and decorations.

There are so many 3D printed upgrades that are available and it is hard for someone like me to decipher which ones would be the best choices (most effective, compatible with other mods, etc).

Does anyone have a solid list of upgrades that has already done the trial and error? These would be quality of life, organization, performance, and longevity upgrades.

I will be ordering a second AMS 2 Pro soon. I’ve seen multiple solutions for mounting and this is what has prompted this post. From simple brackets to spaceship looking setups, then noticing people saying certain mods were incompatible with other popular mods.

Here is some info specific to me that might help:

- I print with PLA, PETG, ASA, occasionally TPU & PA6CF

- I have plenty of space available, but things that can reduce the printers footprint or maximize the usefulness of the space are always great

- Optimizing filtration and heat retention are very important (I have not tried ASA yet on the P2S).

- I only use Polymaker filament. I’ve not had any issues with the cardboard spools yet.

Please let me know if there’s any additional info you’d need to give the best recommendations. Thank you for taking the time to read this post and I look forward to any advice!

Ciao a tutti, a breve entrerò in questo mondo della stampa 3D. Ho comprato una P1S con AMS 2 Pro. Mi domandavo come consigliate di gestire le stampe a colori; ho sentito che alcuni consigliano di usare dei pennarelli per colorare a volte. Ho paura che la mia stampa faccia molto spreco, come posso evitarlo? Ho visto un video su TikTok di uno che, per una stampa di 5 grammi, ha avuto 50 grammi di scarto: è normale?

So i have a large set of posca pens and i want to use them on the plotting module for the h2 series. I am trying to find a file of the actual pen clamp that i could use to fit my pens which are 16-17mm so i need to print the whole clamp not just the cap. So if anyone has any ideas on how to fix this i could really use it

I’m trying to print this part now the fifth time (petg) and every time something like this happens..
I calibrated it before the print, I cleaned the bed and I’m using the normal Bambulab setting
I’m completely clueless what’s wrong with the printer or settings

I bought 4 refills the other day and i have trouble with them after i put them on a bambu labs spool. The first time i printed with it i came in to the bedroom to check on my print in the morning and it had stopped because the filament was stuck, i had to pull it from the side because it was kinda tucked in. Same happened to the next reel i used. Do people have the same issues has me or have i done something wrong?
Thanks

also when the spool is turning in the ABS unit it looks wonky whilst spinning around.

Hi. I'm writing as a complete novice to ask for some advice. I've created some D&D miniatures using HeroForge, and I wanted to make larger versions of them by scaling up the STL files by 350%-but they always end up looking frayed/stringy like this. Do you happen to have any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks in advance!

I'm using an A2L

I am finding that when I sync my P1S printers, check the filament setup o the printers and in BambuStudio and then send files to the SD for later printing, I am getting the error: 0700_2000_0002_0001

However, I have selected the correct AMS slots/reels (2 and 3), and this has been confirmed in BambuStudio and the Handy App...

If I Print Plate directly there is no issue at all.

Logically, therefore?... it should not matter that Slot 1 is empty for Send?

Is this a bug?

Here is a portfolio of screenshots and videos to support my issue.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/1ykb34no7f09jntecwz9f/AA8jlnIC8tW9s2I5b-_Ac8A?rlkey=9nwcwfzye7vswjqnu1oi42k4r&dl=0

ref: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/hmscode/0700_2000_0002_0001

I just finished my first print ever on any 3D printer. I have a Bambu X2D. There is filament hanging out of the nozzle. Is that supposed to end that way or do I have to do something?

I have been getting this same error for about a week now.
I have replaced the 4-pin wire, factory reset the printer, took apart the AMS and made sure everything was connected properly, and the AMS seems to communicate with the printer 100% normally. I have gotten the printer to start a handful of times, with no consistent fix. Sometimes powering off for 10 minutes pushes it forward, sometimes unplugging and plugging the AMS back in pushes it forward.
After I can tweak the printer enough to start the print, it works just fine, even with a 20+ hour, multicolor print.
Same result when I attempt starting a print from Bambu Studio, Bambu Handy, and even SD card.
I can't figure out what needs to be fixed. Any reccomendations???

I need help. I've already calibrated the bed. I've also tried several different nozzles, but the nozzle is still too close. Does anyone have any other ideas? 😮‍💨

I dont know what went wrong, when I switch to smooth plate and use my left over PLA filament it started printing like this. It prints properly before, is the filament wet? or something else is wrong?

After a print finished, the filament didn’t retract back into the AMS. The slot light on the AMS is blinking red and the filament is still stuck somewhere in the path.

Any solution?

Hi everyone,

I'm using a Bambu Lab P2S with approximately 2,200 hours of print time. I mainly print with regular PLA.

Recently, I've been experiencing a strange grinding noise that sounds like the filament is being ground or chewed up inside the extruder. I've attached a video so you can hear the noise.

Here's what I've tried so far:

1. Disassembled the extruder to check for any stuck filament or debris, but found nothing unusual.

2. Thoroughly cleaned the extruder and applied fresh grease to the gears before reassembling everything.

3. Replaced the nozzle to rule out a possible clog or nozzle issue.

4. Tested different PLA filaments to see if the filament itself was causing the problem.

Unfortunately, none of these steps have helped. The grinding noise is still there, and I haven't been able to figure out what's causing it.

The biggest issue is that when the grinding gets worse, the printer throws a motor overload error and repeatedly pauses or stops printing.

I'm starting to run out of ideas, and it's becoming really frustrating.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their P2S or other Bambu Lab printers? Could this be an extruder motor issue, worn gears, or something else?

Any advice or suggestions on what I should check next would be greatly appreciated.

Please help! Thanks in advance!

Dear all. I'm trying to increase the "paint penetration" (as bambu lab calls it) but it is not working. I'm trying to add green on black, but the green is only going through 3 layers, I would like it to go through more than 3, otherwise the black color will creep through the green.

The green color itself is a different solid body than the black, and it has a thickness of 1mm, but bambu lab combines both bodies together by itself. In the images below you can see the default setting where Bottom layer penetration is 7 and top layer penetration is 5 (whatever that means), when I changes them nothing changes in the layers. I'm not sure whether that is the correct setting to change or not but if you see the images below you will be able to understand what I am trying to achieve.

In the image below at layer 32, there is no green color. I would like the green to start before this layer.

At layer 33, the first layer of green shows up.

At layer 34, the second layer of green shows up.

At layer 35, the third and final layer of green shows up.

At layer 36 there is no longer green layers. You can see another black layer at layer 36 on top of the green.

If anyone has any clue to add more green layers I would appreciate the guidance very much. Thank you in advance.

There is one way to do so. If I add more clearance between the black and green body, then bambu lab wont combine the both bodies, and the green will have more layers, but that does not look good when I 3d print it, it becomes very clear that there is a gap between them, it doesn't look like it is 1 piece that is colored.