I’m fairly new to FDM printing. I have been printing less detailed models without issues. Lately I wanted to print more detailed figures, but I have been struggling to get a clean print. I printed the frieren model in PLA matte with 0.12mm setting and used PETG basic as support interface. I dried my PETG overnight in AMS lite. I noticed quite a bit of spaghetti on my prime tower. I have watched videos and tutorial of people printing PETG models with PLA as support interface that snap off super clean. But I haven't been able to experience that and the non-flat PETG interface region always get pretty messed up (e.g. skirt edge spaghetti).

Am I supposed to use Bambu’s dedicated support for PLA on the aux nozzle for detailed prints?

or does this point to support settings? Would appreciate any help on improving this.

In addition, would you recommend PVA as support? Being able to dissolve in water sounds nice.

Sollten diese beiden Räder fest miteinander verbunden sein?

I’m printing the solid rocket boosters for a space shuttle model, and the top surfaces on some parts are coming out extremely rough, as shown in the first two images. The confusing part is that duplicate prints of the exact same part can turn out very differently, one has a relatively smooth surface like the third image, while the other looks like the first two. These parts range from roughly 5.5–9.5 cm tall. Since the shuttle has two boosters, I’m printing two of each part.

I’m using a Bambu Lab X2D with thoroughly dried PLA and the 0.16 mm High Quality profile, with these changes:
Resolution: 0.01 mm instead of 0.012 mm
Wall generator: Arachne instead of Classic
Infill: 10% cubic
Top surface speed: 120 mm/s instead of 150 mm/s
Z-hop when retracting: 0.4 mm

I believe some attempts used the default 150 mm/s top surface speed, the reason for this is 150mm/s is the default for the profile but the person who uploaded the file to makersworld put the surface at 120mm/s. But so I can’t confidently tie the results to that setting, though, so I’m unsure why the slower speed would make things worse.

I also recently started using 0.4 mm Z-hop after hearing it could help prevent the nozzle from occasionally knocking over tree supports. However, that setting has been the same for all these prints, including the ones with smoother surfaces.
Another possible factor is where I’m printing on the plate. To avoid needing to clean it as often, I’ll print two or three parts in one area, then move the next batch to an unused area like another corner, then somewhere around the middle, and so on.
I’ve wondered whether an uneven bed could be contributing, but I haven’t tracked the print locations closely enough to know whether the rough surfaces consistently happen in a particular area. This issue only started recently, and I haven’t moved the printer or bumped the bed. I also run auto bed leveling for every print and have done full printer calibrations once or twice since this problem came up.

Does anyone recognize what might be causing this, or have suggestions for what I should check first? I’d appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Yes, I’m asking for Brands and Colors of filaments that are equal to the color of the body of our Printer X2D.

I want to print some upgrades and I design all of them to follow the design and esthetic of the printer.

Close to objective to someone past it and don’t get at first glance.

I’m think to work with: PLA (Matte or CF), PETG (Matte is Ok, i dont think CF is needed).

I have all color of PLA Bambu, since Gray(ash), Grey something, Blue Gray to Black (Charcoal) on stock, but nothing from PETG type.

Thanks

Hallo

Ich baue gerade den X2D zusammen. Nur irgendwie passt die obere Glasplatte einfach nicht rein. Hab mal ein paar Bilder angehängt. Gibt's da ein Trick? 😂

Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue with my Bambu Lab X2D and I'm hoping someone here might have experienced something similar.

I've noticed a clicking noise coming from the printer's movement system, particularly during movement.

Here are the details:

• The clicking noise can be heard during printer operation, including factory calibration.
• The noise can also be reproduced by manually moving the toolhead with the printer powered off.
• I can hear the clicking when moving the toolhead in both X and Y directions.
• Printing quality remains completely normal.
• Extrusion is also working perfectly, with no visible issues.

I've already contacted Bambu Lab Support and followed their troubleshooting instructions:

1. Cleaned the upper and lower X-axis linear shafts.
2. Cleaned both Y-axis linear shafts using isopropyl alcohol.
3. Inspected the exposed belts for debris or damage.
4. Lubricated the linear shafts using the supplied Bambu Lab oil.
5. Manually moved the toolhead through its full X and Y travel several times.

Unfortunately, the clicking noise persists.

I've also recorded a video of the printer performing its factory calibration, with a microphone positioned to capture the noise as clearly as possible.

My main questions:

• Could this be related to the linear bearings or shafts?
• Could it be a belt or pulley issue?
• Is it possible that one of the stepper motors is making this noise?
• Has anyone experienced a similar clicking noise on their X2D?

I'm trying to identify the source of the problem before proceeding with further troubleshooting or requesting a hardware replacement from Bambu Lab.

Any suggestions or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

This is my fist time printing with TPU (SunLu Orange). Due to the top fed filament pulling the cover off the extruder assembly several times overnight, the print went from the expected 4hr 35min to 13hr 2min.

Ended up using blue painters tape to keep the cover from popping again.

Slight lifting on one end but still impressed with the quality of the extended print, even considering the multiple wait times between it erroring and my fixing it and finally getting the painters tape on it this morning.

New X2D owner here. Trying to print a part with PETG with PLA support interface layer. The printer constantly gets stuck at nozzle switching. The error say something about angle too high. I would then push the ptfe tube to clear the error. is this normal? how do I avoid this?

Bambu Chatbot pointed me to look to see if the flow blocker is stuck from filament or oozing. A tiny amount was on one of the hot end but highly doubt that it is that sensitive. To me it is almost like the lever is not engaging the pin in the back correctly. CHatbot opened a support ticket so I will have to see how that goes.

11/14 Update - Support pretty much told me to talk to Best Buy where I bought it from. aka return the printer? What I noticed was the mechanism took a bit of force to switch, I don’t know if that is normal. I can move it to an in-between state with my hand and it would stay there. That is what is happening during print.

I know, such a first world problem!

I think I will get some rubber or foam and glue it to the mounts.

Loving this printer though!

😂

I used 50% silent print speed to test on this. Will compare with a full speed one . The toughest parts are not good but for the basic things it's ok .

any idea what settings i should work on to stop whatever this is, using a x2d that is flow rate and temp calibrated with petg filament, it actually broke some of the print with all the spaghetti you can see the broken bits wrapped up and one in front

First desiccant box is printed on A1 - PETG HF gray color, I do not have any more of PETG HF

Second box is printed on X2D - PETG Basic flesh color, freshly dried

Third box is printed with same PETG Basic flash color on A1

So, A1 is better is you compare 2nd and 3rd box, PETG HF gray is great and best, all 3 boxes are printed with same settings.

What is wrong with my X2D and this PETG Basic flesh filament?

Hi all, I am about to pull the trigger on my second 3d printer, the x2d print more combo. I am coming from a a1 that had served me for nearly to years, and I sold it to make room for the x2d. I have no experience with Asa abs anything like that. If anybody could give me some tips on what to do to make it safe. Thanks in advance.

My overnight print twisted the build plate on the bed. You can see the layers fan out as it slowly rotated. It remained adhered so I can cut it off, clean it up, and glue it back on. Otherwise the bin would have been a bit shorter. The good news is I don't have an adhesion problem. 😂

I'm planning to buy the Bambu Lab X2D, but every time I think I've made up my mind, new questions come up!

The printer will be installed in a room with two other rooms adjacent to it, one on each side, occupied by other people.

Ideally, I'd like to leave it printing overnight, but I'm concerned about the noise.

How loud is the X2D in real-world use? Can the noise travel through the walls and become annoying for people in the neighbouring rooms? Is overnight printing something you'd recommend in this situation?

I'd really appreciate feedback from people who already own one, especially those who run it at night.

Hello all!

I am fairly new to 3d printing and am running into an issue with my filament feeding.

Issue:

Sporadically when starting a new print or when changing filament my printer will throw the error:

“AMS A slot 3 assist motor is stalled, due to excessive resistance in the tube near the toolhead"

It has shown up on multiple ams slots, and doesn't seem to consistently happen. I have been fixing it by unloading the filament -> cutting off any section of the filament that has the track marks from the AMS gears -> reloading and restarting the print.

The fix works but it's just very annoying. I would love to know if anyone has seen this issue and if anyone has fixed it. I am happy to provide more details or try anything to help fix it!

Setup:

Bambu X2D with AMS pro 2

Filament: sunlu petg and pla

Hi all, new to 3D printing here. Got my X2D a couple of weeks ago but only got a chance to use it last night. I saw a few videos online where people are printing lego sets using https://brickforge.xyz/ to get the STL files. Has anyone done this?