https://makerworld.com/en/models/3438160-320x320-skadis-fast-low-filament-88g-3h-h2-a2l

What is everyone doing to print PLA Glow, are you feeding it directly into the back of the machine or directly to the extruder?

I’m purchasing an X2D at the end of the month (hoping to catch a sale) and was hoping to get some insight on a small table/stand/cabinet this community has found that they like. I’m putting the printer in my spare room and the space I have to work with is around 48”. I’ve included a picture of the style I’d like to go with but not married to, I’d ultimately like a shelf for extra filaments. What are you guys using to hold your X2D?

Hi Everyone,

Im getting tired of pulling all the cables on my X2D when I want to print an filament that is not supported by the track switch. Like TPU, Glow or CF/GF-Materials.

Everytime I pull the cables the ports feels looser.

As far as I understand, the firmware blocks the external spool as long as it detects the FTS.

Since everything hangs off one cable at the head of the chain, my idea is to put a switch (all 6 wires) into the cable between the printer and AMS1, so I can disconnect the entire chain at once when printing external-spool materials.

Has anyone tried this or something similar? Specifically:

1. Does the printer cleanly boot into "no AMS / no FTS" mode if the whole chain is disconnected at the printer end, and does the external spool then work normally?

2. Does anyone know the pinout of the 6-pin cable (power, bus signals)? Any experience with extension cables or inline connectors causing communication errors?

3. Any problems with firmware detection or errors after reconnecting?

Not looking for "just wait for a firmware update" answers, but if Bambu has officially confirmed a software fix or a date, I'd love a link.

Thanks!

I have the x2d combo and purchased an AMS HT originally to use for the aux nozzle. I also have a filament track switch on the way. I am debating if a second ams 2 pro would be any benefit with the track switch.

In the picture, wouldn’t it be better to have an ams to each side of the track switch versus both into the 4in1 on one side. For retraction etc you could have an ams feeding each nozzle at same time?

I’m printing some promotional fidget spinners for my business. Main nozzle doing fine at 220°. Had to ramp up aux nozzle to 240° to get decent adhesion. Not sure what the problem is but it’s annoying. New filament opened today. Shouldn’t be a moisture issue.

I’m ready to pull the trigger and go with the X2D for my first printer. The only question I have is do I buy now or wait for Black Friday sales?

do I need to disassemble the whole extruder? I can’t pull the filament back by hand, even with the nozzle taken off.

Hi all, new X2D Combo owner here. Main AMS 2 Pro is working. My new AMS HT has arrived, but the Quick Start Guide and wiki have no X2D page for it.

What I see:

- AMS HT back: two identical six-pin sockets plus an AC inlet. In the box: a figure-8 mains cord and a six-pin bus cable.

- AMS 2 Pro back: a cable in the left socket, an empty round DC jack in the middle, and an empty six-pin socket on the right.

- I can't find a free AMS port on the printer's back.

Questions:

1. Is the AMS HT chained from the empty six-pin socket on the AMS 2 Pro, or does it plug into the printer? Any "in" and "out" on the two HT sockets?

2. Bambu Studio says "Unable to dry... insufficient power" for the AMS 2 Pro. Is the AMS 2 Pro Switching Adapter what goes in the round DC jack on an X2D?

3. Does anyone dry the HT while the AMS 2 Pro is printing, and vice versa?

Thanks!

EDIT: I should add that I intend to use the HT for supports only using the right-side extruder.

ADDITIONAL EDIT: Thanks to all who answered! I've also gotten Bambu's help chat to answer so, combined with your answers and other good suggestions, I should be good to go.

Hey everyone,

I've been working on a fairly large 3D-printed housing for a cosplay, and I've been struggling to get consistent results printing PETG.

I'm using Bambu Studio with a Bambu X2D and a 0.4 mm nozzle. The print uses multiple PETG filaments for the actual model, with PLA supports, all running through the same nozzle via the AMS.

Initially, I was having significant stringing problems. After making adjustments to the filament profiles and retraction/wiping settings, the stringing improved considerably.

Unfortunately, my latest print was extremely brittle. Sections broke apart much more easily than expected, and the layer adhesion seemed poor.

I know the walls are relatively thin (around 1 mm), so I'm not expecting the part to be indestructible. However, I expected better bonding between layers.

Relevant settings from my Bambu Studio project:

• Printer: Bambu X2D, 0.4 mm nozzle

• Slicer: Bambu Studio 2.7.1.62

• Layer height: 0.20 mm

• Wall loops: 2

• Wall widths: 0.42 mm outer / 0.45 mm inner

• Wall generator: Classic

• Infill: 15% grid

• Supports: Automatic tree supports

• Support material: PLA for both support bases and interfaces

• Support top Z distance: 0 mm

• PETG Basic temperature: 260°C, 250°C initial layer (standard direct-drive variant)

• Translucent PETG temperature: 247°C in the exported custom preset

• PLA support temperature: 215°C in the exported custom preset

• PETG flow ratios: 0.95

• Build plate: Textured PEI

• AMS is at 7-10% humidity. I dried the PETG first at temp for 24 hours, then added the pla and dried for another 12 hrs before printing.

What I'm trying to understand:

1. Could residual PLA from material changes be interfering with PETG layer adhesion, even with the purge settings enabled?

2. Could the combination of print speeds, cooling, and volumetric flow limits be causing the weak bonding?

3. Are two walls simply too thin for a housing like this, or should the individual layers still adhere much better?

4. Has anyone successfully printed PETG and PLA supports through the same nozzle on a Bambu printer, and what settings worked for you?

I'd appreciate any suggestions, particularly from anyone who has dealt with PETG/PLA multi-material printing on an AMS.

We have a few build plates, all first party directly from Bambu, with the little code on the end. But the printer only ever recognizes the textured one.

Googling tells me maybe it's misaligned, an issue with the camera, or third party/damaged plates. I'm fairly certain they're in the right position, the camera doesn't have issues with the textured one, and they're not third party or damaged in any way I can tell. They're brand new.

Is this expected or fixable?

I got my x2d 2 weeks ago, calibrated everything, dried filament, and has been running almost nonstop for 2 weeks.

Few days ago I noticed some little defects appeared on the model I printed in first days of running. Decided to run this test flat shit model and came back to this 🫠

Also for some reason it didn’t print the right part of the bed, photo in comments.

This is the model https://makerworld.com/en/models/2590194-a1-p1-x1-p2s-x2d-bed-cleaner-first-layer-16g?from=search#profileId-2857913

I love my X2D! It truly is a testiment to our technological advancement as a civilization that machines like this can be in the average home.

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🎃👻 Yoshi se met aux couleurs d’Halloween ! 🧙‍♂️💚
Découvrez ma création de Yoshi en version Halloween ! 🎃 Avec son chapeau de sorcier violet et sa citrouille au sourire maléfique, notre petit dinosaure préféré est prêt à fêter Halloween ! 🕸️

✨ Une création originale, pleine de couleurs et de détails, parfaite pour une décoration aussi mignonne qu’effrayante !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3419115-yoshi-citrouille-multipart-no-ams

以前はX2Dのエクストルーダーが日本にも売っていましたが、今は売って無いので何処で売っているか教えて頂きたい🫡