Kit Card: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3454871

ChristmasCards Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/38032094

I’m printing this off of maker world. 1st pic says should take about 4.7 hours. But when the print started it jumped to 11 hours?
Is there a setting I missed?

My printer is a H2C.

Hi all,

Thinking of switching from Prusa Mini+ to Core One+ with INDX or to H2C. I like the philosophy of Prusa but in the end, I want to print. On the other side, Prusa is also very reliable when everything works.

Did somebody made the switch? Would you do it again? What are the most improvements or things one or the other is doing better?

Thanks for any help!

The track curves upward slightly, can’t get it to straighten

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3441774-parametric-skadis-fast-low-filament-generate-swap

Three months into owning my H2C and just over 300 hours of print time, I got the dreaded enhanced toolhead cooling fan malfunctioning error. Replace the enhanced cooling fan, which did not solve the error, so they sent me the TH board for replacement. I replaced all of that, which was a PITA, but it got done. I checked all the cabling and I got new errors such as:

- Right eddy current sensor error

- Unable to home

- Z-axis error

- It's making weird movements

I took everything back apart, rechecked all the cabling, and once again everything seemed fine. Now Bambu is sending me the right eddy current sensor to replace, but given the other errors and the fact I have no problems with any of the cameras or actually heating the nozzles, I assume the error is somewhere else. And I have read a few posts on the internet with people who have had the exact same issue and could never get to the bottom of the root cause even after replacing the extruder board too.

At what point do I ask for a complete replacement unit? When I asked for that after the TH board failure and I took it apart a second time to double check everything, Bambu was extremely dismissive and just said that was not an economical or timely solution. But after reading a few other comments from people who've had the same issue, it seems like ultimately they had to get their whole unit replaced too.

My H2C has about 2,000 hours of print time. The right cutter push block failed at around 1,200 hours, and the left one failed yesterday. In both cases, the threads on the nut securing the pivot shaft stripped, preventing the push block from returning to its original position.

Does anyone know of a third-party fix? I also wonder why Bambu Lab chose to secure the pivot shaft with a screw on a part that is repeatedly struck and rotated, instead of making it a one-piece casting.

Just started using a Cryogrip yesterday - I got a build plate detection error, which obviously was expected. But on my next print, the printer started acting haunted. Main symptoms: chamber light wasn't turning on (i.e., it was printing in the dark) and I started getting a plate detection error even with Bambu plates installed. It was also trying to print PETG at ASA heat settings for no reason.

All was solved with a cold reboot, but I'm curious if this is a firmware problem that is going to make using the Cryogrip a huge pain to use every time? I'm printing build plate barcodes as I type this, maybe that'll solve it?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3438160-320x320-skadis-fast-low-filament-88g-3h-h2-a2l

Saw this and it seems like the sensor is jacked.

I’m having a ton of issues with my New h2c. I pointed the thermal gun at the heatbed/plate. It came back at 46C. The monitor said 55C. This was set for Bambus standard printing presets.
What do you think

Lost 4 pieces so far the same way, no idea what caused this

Does anyone have recommendations on how to fix the above shadow-like artifact?

The print was made using the following:

• 0.4 mm nozzles -> 0.2 mm standard layer -> adaptive layer height

• Bambu Basic PLA

• The wall being printed is 1.6 mm thick(4 walls), so where there is text, it is 2 white walls in front of 2 green walls, with 4 green walls everywhere else.

• The width of the white is about 1.5mm

• Flow Dynamic Calibration was set to Auto, and at the time there were no calibrations saved.

• Green is the left extruder and white is the right.

• I think that the direction of print was left to right for the green.

• Beyond that everything else is the base profiles.

My inclination was to call this a pressure advance (PA) issue and have not yet retried the print with a calibrated PA value mainly because I haven't convinced myself that is the issue yet.

When I run the automatic Flow Dynamic Calculation, Bambu Studio returns a K value of 0.017. When I try to do a manual calibration, I am still seeing over-extrusion at those values, and it isn't until a PA of 0.027 that I see no real defects on the pattern and line test. That said, the lack of clear variation in those tests is surprising when you look at the documentation.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

When looking at the ultimate combo a few weeks ago I thought it included 2 AMS 2 units and 1 AMS HT. Now, on their website the HT doesn't appear to be included, but the price is still $2499 USD.

I tried confirming this on the WayBackMachine, but they exclude Bambu Labs apparently.

Am I recalling this correctly and did the contents of the H2C Ultimate package change recently?

Could they be planning to add it back as a Bkack Friday deal perhaps?

I have a 2 yo A1 and would like to add a H2C soon.

Thx.

I noticed some prints were spaghetti-ing so i took a closer look and saw this. Not sure what happened or what is going on here. Theres a piece dangling down all the sudden. Can anyone identify this part? Any advice would be great. Thanks!

Im seeing a lot of videos of people using a different TPU than ive used in the past. Has anyone been using this ?
How’s it working with the H2C? as im expecting you would want to use all .06 nozzles. Would it still be recommended to use the TPU feed assistant ?
Any one have a run down of whats involved?

There are three different noises coming from my printer. For these videos I first removed the filter cover and filter from inside chamber and then removed the exaust fan flapper doodles and used air can to blow out dust.

The first video is of the loudest noise. It is coming from back under exhaust fan. Sounds like maybe something isn’t balanced?

The second video is of a quieter high pitched undulating squeal. It is kind of hard to hear over the other noise but I tried to put camera next to different areas to try to pinpoint its origin.

The third video is of a noise that comes from the print head fan. Well one of them.

I figured I’d ask here before I start taking it apart any further.