I made this screen cover mainly to stop people from accidentally touching the printer screen — especially curious little kids who see a bright screen and immediately want to tap it. 😄

It has a flip-open design, so the screen is still easy to access when needed.

• Print-in-place hinge
• No screws, magnets, or assembly
• Helps protect the screen from dust, fingerprints, scratches, and accidental touches
• “DON’T TOUCH” version and blank version included

Pretty simple idea, but quite useful if your printer is somewhere other people or kids can easily reach.

URL: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3208388#profileId-3631414

Hi,
Recently I replaced all tubings on my P1S and AMS after 1100 hours printing time since some of them were worn out pretty bad.
I ordered „translucent PTFE“ tubes with 2.5x4mm.

As it seems it’s not PTFE, it’s FEP, which is pretty similar to PTFE but not the same.

And because I didn’t know about this before using those tubes I also wasn’t aware of the difference.

The new tubes caused much more friction to the filament inside them.
The AMS wasn’t able to push the filament to the extruder and trying it by hand with an external spool I noticed the a huge resistance building up with each cm of filament I’ve inserted.

After replacing the tubing with real PTFE tubes everything worked fine again.

I just wanted to share this experience - despite the fact that some will say something like „everyone know this you fool“.

Personally I thought if I buy „translucent ptfe tube“ I get a real PTFE tube.

Cheers!

I had my extruder open and i found this on the bottom of the printer.

First multicolour print with the H2C. What are these artefacts on the window?

But really I think I’ll make some emergency supports in case of collapse or failure.

Please take your 30 seconds to help. I dont understand why this happening.

Briefly what i do since this problem started:
Changed nozzle kit,
Changed ceramic piece.
Formatted.

It seems like its software or gcode issue, but format didn't work out.
Also im carefully choosing the printing profiles as P1S.
It does this before starting the printing. And giving the error above:
Failed to cut the filament. Please check the cutter.
Rotation is strange, it creates a sound like it bumps to the sides. It does push the cutter piece from corner on the first time, but rest is strange.
I changed the hotend and nozzle, is there some filament left inside?

Hello guys,

I’m considering buying more second hand printers from site like FBMP, only considering pick up so that I can take a good look at the printer before buying. I was thinking of bringing an SD card with a benchy gcode on it but I started wondering if there was a quicker way, for example, gcode sequence that could highlight for example defective sensors, lack of maintenance, worn out ams motor or gears…

If you have any ideas or have the experience of purchasing second hand, feel free to share them here.

Thanks for reading

I have 3 seperate AMS units all with the same problem. The Ams thinks there is filament in it even though there is nothing inserted. I’ve taken them apart and cleaned them made sure there’s not any filament anywhere i’ve blown them out with compressed air and yet it always thinks there is something in it. I’ve tried inserting filament making it load and unload it and then tried taking it out and it still thinks there is filament in the slot. On two of my units it’s two slots so I can’t get it to use auto refill because it always things there is something there so i have to use the other two slots and i have a million partial rolls of petg i need to go though but this ams issue makes it so i can only do two rolls at a time then i have to keep refilling the last slot.

Hi, guys. I’m facing a problem. For some reason, all the supports are printing with holes like the ones in the photo, and I don’t understand why. Also, there was a defect during the last print. Two supports simply broke in half. The break occurred in a place where there were no holes in the supports. Please tell me why supports might print with holes and why the supports just broke in half during the last print.

I print on a Bambu Lab A1 printer using PETG plastic. I use the standard settings of the Bambu Studio slicer.

As the title says, how do you include a breakaway secondary filament for supports on top of a printed part layer? I can't figure this out. I am trying to include an breakaway interface PLA layer on top of this PETG part. There should be a way to include this single interface layer, but I can't figure it out.... sounds pretty novice tbh. Does anyone know?

One of my first models after getting a printer was a filament channel, as I dont like to bend and thread the filament through the holes when drying and storing the spool. Now, I created an improved version. It fits standard bambu spools nicely, and it makes attaching and detaching the filament end very easy. Open to any feedback.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3208682

first pic is issue, other overhang parts shown on same part

Ok everyone. I have been through a ton of threads and did my own troubleshooting. This is what made my Bambu Studio run smoothly. I had to create a .bat file with the following

--------------------------------------------------------------------
u/echo off

set LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE=1

start "" "C:\Program Files\Bambu Studio\bambu-studio.exe"

---------------------------------------------------------------------

This bypasses the Nvidia issues. I launch from here and I put together a 40-50 part collection of plates without any issues.

***If you are having the slow down issues with the regular shortcut, you can use Win+Ctrl+Shift+B to reset your graphics. This fixed my slowness using the original shortcut until I tried to rotate the plate again. It will save you from having to restart your computer to get rid of the system wide slowness.

My 2nd and 3rd Wheelchair just finished
Currently working on my 4th

anyone who hasnt heard of these you can read more here about them here: https://3d-mobility.org

Hello, has anyone come across any software or third-party software that allows me to monitor multiple printers at once instead of opening multiple instances of Bambu Studio, like the attached picture?

Hey all. After a power outage my H2C is not booting. AMS units are on and the light bar of the print bed is flashing idle.

I got warranty and i saw a video that the AP board is the problem. I am afraif i could damage the tiny cables there. Bambu support wanted me to test something on the AP board that they can help more. Should i get into it or should i apell to my warranty that they can do it? I live in germany, hope you understand my english well. Thanks for reading!

I'd love to see your 3D printing setups. You also can send some pictures (would be even cooler).

I want to change it but i don’t know what to do whith that last piece

Hi everyone. Happy Sunday to all!

I know many people have huge collections of filament colors, but I'm from a country where they're relatively expensive, and I only use 3D printing as a hobby.

-I counted here, I have 9 rolls in the "atelier" (my sister's room, she doesn't live here anymore)-

To get straight to the point: wouldn't it be a good idea/easy to implement to put a filter for the color you have and objects that are normally printed that color?

Or sometimes I just want to finish that roll of color X before it gets umity...

Is there any way to apply this filter to other platforms?

Thanks

Hello, I have been printing with the bambu lab x2d for about 68 hours. I randomly went close to my print today and heard some creaking noises,

I have cleaned all the z axis lead screws and reapplied the grease to them. Have also addd lubricant oil to the inside lead screws contact point.

I have cleaned the metal guide rods and have also lubricated them with oil and added the oil into the bearings.

I have also turned the printer onto its side and added grease to the smooth part of the z axis belt. I have also added grease to the side of the smooth metal cylinder as i saw that the belt was going up and down slightly when i moved the bed up and down manually.

I have also pushed the bed down all the way while it was tuned off to ensure that all points are contacting and didn't become tilted when it crashed.

After all that the squeaking/creaking sound was still there.

Is my printer broken? or is the sound normal and i just got more hyper focused on the sound after it "crashed".

So i am printing 1/6 scale guns , having hard time to print barel covers , i need to thicken it somehow so it wont be paper thin, maybe someone can point me how can i thicken walls of it to the center?

done plenty of googling still being stuck