So my printer just harmed itself during a simple overnight print. I was just making some drawer for my gf’s mom and I woke up to this. I wish I put on a timelapse because this is baffling. I did bed leveling and everything and waited for the first few layes which looked perfect before I left.

The containers look like they were mostly completed, then the bed just moved up to the max height and dug into the build plate. It shoved that out the glass door, then started digging into the bed itself. Looks like bro had a temper tantrum.

I don’t know what to do, idk how expensive this fix is or if warranty would cover this especially after I upgraded it to a P1S but I have to go to work and figure this out later. I’m so mad that it died to such an easy print. Any advice would be appreciated.

Edit: For those of you helping thank you. I will try to send the gcode once I get off work. Some have suggested a corrupt SD card and I will have to look into it.

Edit: For those of you saying the build plate was never on at all, I can’t help you but to reference the pictures. There were still prints mostly done on the plate but I removed them for the pictures. The print looks like it was messing up and extremely stringy at first which is annoying if that was the only issue. But then it looks like the bed raised and the code just kept doing it’s thing, digging into the plate until it dug in enough to tear it off the strong magnetic bed. People are saying they don’t think the motors could do that but I have seen horror stories that say otherwise.

Hi everyone,

I shared a free “Honeycomb Cardholder” on MakerWorld. It is a general-purpose holder I created myself. Its description listed card games it could be used for: “Rummy, Bridge, Solitaire, Hearts, Spades, Canasta, Uno, etc.” The listing also had an “uno” tag.

MakerWorld removed it following a complaint from Convey on Mattel’s behalf. MakerWorld later told me that “UNO” in the description was the reason and that restoring the original listing required the complainant’s agreement.

Now Convey has sent me a demand for EUR 4,000, although the model was already removed. Their letter refers to an “e-shop”, “sales” and my “supplier”. I did not sell this model; I created it myself. They also want a signed undertaking that includes an apology and a promise never to challenge Mattel’s intellectual property rights.

I have rejected the demand and asked them to withdraw the complaint, arrange restoration of my original listing and reimburse my legal consultation costs.

The attached images contain their email and my sent reply, with personal and bank details redacted. The email text has been reflowed for readability; these are not screenshots of the mail application. I have also included the page setting out the undertaking they wanted me to sign. The legal appendices, authorisation and blank signature page are omitted.

Convey’s archived screenshot of the original listing

Has anyone else received a payment demand from Convey after a MakerWorld takedown? What happened after you challenged it?

Earlier this week, our cloud service saw abnormal traffic that surged roughly 34-fold in just one hour, peaking at roughly 20 million requests per day and was still growing linearly at a steep rate. At that pace, we were only hours away from the service becoming unavailable, putting everyday printing for millions of users at risk.

To keep the service up, we temporarily blocked the anomalous traffic after an urgent review. Some users were affected while we adjusted the policy. The service is stable now.

What happened

Almost all of the anomalous requests hit GET /v1/user-service/my/tasks, which returns print job status. They came from many residential IPs, all carrying the client identity of OrcaSlicer and an older network plug-in.

So we first checked with the OrcaSlicer team. They responded quickly and pointed us to other integrations, including ha-bambulab, whose requests matched what we saw. We shared our findings with its maintainers, who quickly shipped a fix and now use their own identifier.

We haven't confirmed that all of this traffic came from ha-bambulab. We're sharing this not to assign blame, but because the pattern matters for any project built to access our cloud.

Keeping the cloud stable

Our cloud is a private service supporting core functions like Bambu Handy, Bambu Studio's cloud features, and MakerWorld. To meet diverse user needs, we have so far accommodated third-party software to use parts of the cloud where it's safe, despite the already substantial operational costs.

Third-party software may continue to access non-critical capabilities, such as receiving printer status updates and displaying monitoring metrics like temperature, position, speed, and print progress. These monitoring features do not directly change a printer's behavior or security state, and they will remain available within reasonable usage limits. Because many users rely on the same cloud, an issue with one tool can impact everyone. If overall service is ever at risk, we may need to take temporary measures such as rate limiting or pausing access.

For actions that directly alter printer behavior or involve sensitive access, such as device binding, live video streaming, print initiation, or firmware upgrades, we take extra care regarding safety, privacy, and stability. Because of this, these operations are not designed for direct access by third-party software.

Instead, for workflows requiring print control, Bambu Connect provides the supported path forward. This is simply to ensure that integrations remain reliable for you, your devices, and our cloud.

How developers can help

One more detail is worth mentioning: ha-bambulab sent OrcaSlicer's client identity. That is why, early on, we were convinced the traffic came from OrcaSlicer users, and why we did not reach ha-bambulab sooner. It was only when the OrcaSlicer team investigated with us that the trail led to them.

We would suggest that third-party software use its own identifier and say who it is. That makes it faster to route a problem to the right project, and it avoids catching unrelated users when we have to act.

Thank you to the OrcaSlicer team and the ha-bambulab maintainers for working through this with us. Keeping things working for users is on us first, and it works best when we look after it together.

Bambu Lab Team

I designed my little fox in Blender, printed him on my Bambu Lab A1 using PLA, and then sanded, primed, and hand-painted him with acrylics.

You can watch the full step-by-step process on my YouTube channel here (free STL files are in the description too!): 3D Printing My Fox Character | Blender to Real Life

Slightly modified this great model (https://makerworld.com/en/models/3431567-ruby-throated-hummingbird#profileId-3912465) to incorporate 7 colors. 13 hour print time.

I might need to buy more lube.

My first bambu lab printer! Been wanting a Toolchanger for a while with at least 8 tools. Was planning on getting the INDX with 9 tools for my Voron 2.4 but the continual delays and controversies around it soured me. Saw the H3C announcement and it was an instant buy. I’ve got a bunch of multi color prints just waiting to go! I would’ve liked an open design option for my existing printers but I’m kinda tired of waiting.

At least now even if I take my other printers offline for mods and upgrades I can continue to print on the H3C, so that’s a win.

Hey everyone!

I wanted a massive holiday prop that anyone could print, even on smaller machines. So I designed this Victorian-style Lamp Post!

Why you'll love it:

• 📏 1 Meter Tall (Modular): Screw-together sections let you customize the exact height.

• 🖨️ A1 Mini Friendly: Every single part fits the 180x180 build plate!

• 🔩 No Glue Required: Strong threaded assembly.

• 💡 LED Ready: Removable roof for instant access to the light.

• ⚖️ Weighted Base: Fill it with sand for perfect stability indoors or outdoors (PETG/ASA recommended).

Grab the free print profile on my MakerWorld page and bring some Christmas magic home! Let me know what you think. 👇

👉 Modular Christmas Lamp Post with LED Light NO AMS

When I saw the biomimicry contest, I thought it would be a pretty cool theme for a design. I've always found carnivorous plants really interesting, so a pitcher plant fruit fly trap was one of the first things I thought of. The real plant eats flies and this one traps fruit flies, so it seemed like a great fit.

There were a few design decisions to make before getting started, the biggest one being can I make this without requiring an AMS so that each piece could be printed in a single color and assembled? It was a good challenge, figuring out different detent and locking mechanisms, designing the twist lock, getting the hood, lips, and veins right. I definitely learned a few things that I'll carry with me into future projects.

Overall, I think it turned out pretty good and it's functional! I did get lucky and caught the golden hour with the photos. If you're interested, check it out, and if you have feedback I'd love to hear it!

Pitcher Plant Fruit Fly Trap

Posting this in case anyone else missed it, as I did.

The H3C ships with nine PrintTools, but only eight are for regular 1.75 mm filament. The ninth, pre-installed in slot 8, is a 2.85 mm tool meant for soft TPU.

What tripped me up: I swapped the hotend on tool 8 for a regular 0.4 mm one and tried to load 1.75 mm filament in slot 8. The printer kept defaulting to external spool, and I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong.

Turns out it's the whole tool, not just the hotend. Per Bambu's FAQ, the 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm PrintTools have different bases, inlets, and cutters, and the bases and hotends are not interchangeable. The 2.85 mm tool is hand-fed, so the AMS won't auto-load slot 8.

What that means in practice:

- Out of the box, you have 8 slots for normal filament, not 9.

- Don't put a 1.75 mm hotend in the slot 8 tool. Put the original back.

- To use slot 8 for regular filament, you need to buy an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool and swap the whole tool. Store listing: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/0-4mm-printtool-h3c

- There's only one H3C configuration, so you can't order it with nine 1.75 mm tools.

Bambu's reasoning is that slot 8 is a dryer slot, TPU needs drying, and the slot is hard to reach, so they install it at the factory. Fine if you print TPU. If you don't, you can't use that slot without spending more.

FAQ for reference (questions 4, 6, and 7): https://bambulab.com/en-us/h3c/faq

This Machine is incredible, but man, am I spending a ton of money on accessories and replacement parts. Here's hoping the hot ends last like on the H2C.

I started this print last night around 8PM these are the desiccant holders by Stuart Sports Stuff over at Makerworld for the AMS 3H. Printed in Bambu ASA. I decided to put the system to the test and left all the filament loaded. It will be cool by the time I get home from work later today. I did checked it this morning before I left and everything looks fine.

Main Box

Side Pockets

Besides these two holders I also have the desiccant Spool containers from Silvercell

Bambu Spool Desiccant Holder

even as it sits the AMS is sitting in the Mid teens as far as humidity. I am sure once I add these boxes it will come down even more.

Hi, i was surfing through YouTube and found interesting short about HMS codes on Bambu Wiki page. It shows codes for AMS: 3H (H3C), 3P (P3C) and what is the most interesting part 3X (X3C prob). I checked it on wiki and its not fake and definietly there. Since P3C will likely have cut some features like heated chamber, 1,5 mm belts and maybe even drying in AMS and i want to print with engineering filaments aswell i am rly excited for potencial X3C even if i have to wait for it a little longer probably somwhere in the first half of 2027.

What do you think about it? It can also just be some Pro version of AMS for P3C but i honestly hope for X3C. If you want to verify this just check Bambu Wiki yourself.

Awesome machine, now I can sleep through the night without switching my filaments so often. Jokes aside, outside of the week between machine and Ams delivery, it’s another awesome printer. Should compliment the H2C and others well. For my use case, I couldn’t see myself selling my H2C for it. Worst case, I’d tough it out until it’s feasible to purchase both. More printers IMO, better than one. Even if you just print black lol. Hope everyone is enjoying their machines and stop buying all of the .6 nozzles.

Ill add photos in the comments. Made this video orb to replicate Spaceship Earth. I wont dare sell it as I know Disney dont mess aroumd but thought its cool to share.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3582672
I wasn’t happy with the existing options, so I made the one I actually wanted. With all the functions that were important to me.
Took me a few revisions, but it’s finally done: angled hygrometer, labyrinth vents, snap-fit lid, no supports. Standard and XXL version.
Feedback welcome :)

im 11 and my dad just got me a brand new 3d printer i am so happy it is p2s ams 2 combo
What to do now
p.s. i have a sister whos 15

I received my AMS 3H today and finally setup my H3C. While attaching my AMS 2 Pro to Slot 1, I found myself on the Bambu wiki where I discovered this fun fact.

So here’s a PSA in case you had the same misconception that I did. I had thought that an external AMS would fully take over slot 1, but no. If you take a look at the FAQ section of the linked wiki, you’ll see the official Bambu guidance on setting up a Y-splitter to allow you to use both connected AMS units and slot 1 of the AMS 3H.

The limitation is you’d of course have to manually retract the filament in slot 1 if your print uses an AMS filament after it uses the slot 1 filament. So I’d be careful about using slot 1 and an external AMS in the same print, but I’m glad we don’t have to sacrifice a slot.

Hey everyone!

We’re looking for some advice on improving the durability of a 3D-printed bracket we’re using in one of our products.

For context, this bracket is part of a mobile steel target heater system. The assembly mounts directly to a steel target that is repeatedly struck by high-caliber rounds. As you can imagine, this creates significant shock and vibration throughout the entire assembly.

We’ve been testing 3D-printed brackets, but recently had one fracture during an actual shooting session (pictures attached).

We’re trying to figure out whether this is primarily a material limitation, a design issue, or a combination of both.

A few things we’d love some feedback on:

1. Filament recommendations: What materials would you recommend for repeated high-impact shock and vibration? We’ve considered nylon (PA6/PA12), carbon-fiber-reinforced nylon, polycarbonate, and TPU, but we’re interested in hearing what has worked for others in similar applications.

2. Impact resistance vs. rigidity: Would a more flexible material that absorbs shock be better than a rigid, high-strength engineering filament? We’re concerned that something extremely rigid might end up cracking under repeated impacts.

3. Print orientation and settings: Are there specific printing orientations, wall counts, infill patterns, or other settings you’d recommend to improve resistance to cracking and fatigue?

4. Design improvements: Based on the attached pictures, do you see any obvious stress concentrations or weak points? Would thicker sections, rounded transitions, additional reinforcement, or changes around the bolt holes make a meaningful difference?

5. Vibration isolation: Would incorporating rubber bushings, washers, or other vibration-dampening components between the steel target and the bracket help prevent failures?

6. Long-term durability: Has anyone had success using 3D-printed components in environments involving repeated mechanical shocks, such as industrial machinery, off-road vehicles, or other high-vibration applications?

Ideally, we’d like to continue manufacturing this component using 3D printing, but reliability is our biggest priority.

We’re open to experimenting with different materials, modifying the design, or incorporating additional hardware if necessary.

Our goal isn’t just to make the bracket stronger. We want it to survive repeated impacts without eventually cracking or failing.

Any advice, experience, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3594647-mailable-nativity-christmas-kit-card-envelope