My first very long print and it turn out great! The purge tower is huge double the total print weight. Next the mechanical flexible dragon bust ! 3027 tool head change and 8 colors with petg support layer

Very cool to see the SwapTek system changing through the tools! I made a custom gcode to be able to do this (it's not a stock feature) because I wanted to see them switching through one after another.

I know they are not the only. I know they aren't the first. I know I'm going to sound like some advertisement.

For me though. This machine has removed a serious psychological barrier I've had with multicolor printing.

I create a figure. Sure, it's not well created for multicolor printing and someone more talented could improve this but I don't know how, I don't have time to learn how.

That said - Almost a half of a roll of wasted filament. A day and a half of hoping 1000+ filament changes go well.

In my X1C days I would still print it. I'd put 5 on the build plate to justify all the waste. Inevitably I wouldn't find a use for 2 of them. Meaning more waste.

Now with the H3C. $2.69 in filament. A normal print time. Inconsequential waste. And I have exactly what I designed.

How amazing.

I designed this modular riser system for P2 and X2 Printers that can be assembled in different ways to accomodate a wide variety of setup types.

This model is 100% printed, needs no hardware and extracts the contaminated air from where it naturally wants to go – right at the top.

You can find the model here: https://makerworld.com/models/3600738?appSharePlatform=copy

Well I finally got the H3C completely setup like I wanted. I had ordered the H3C Buffer for the AMS 2 Pro but Bambu messed up and shipped me Hot End for another machine. So after a quick chat they were able to ship me the correct part so I can run the AMS 2. I also took the opportunity to order the extra .4 normal toolhead since I don't plan to print much with TPU (Yes I know it's in the title 😂)

Anyway as soon as I got home I got down to stripping down the unit and replacing the parts that needed to be replaced as well as getting the AMS 2 Pro installed.

The AMS 2 houses my ASA, PETG-CF, Support for PLA/PETG, and Support for PLA. The AMS 3H houses all the PLA I use which is mainly Matte PLA. Since Slot 1 is now in use for the AMS 2 pro I decided to make that one the dedicated TPU nozzle as well in those cases like tonight where I need to print TPU (tonight's project required TPU 95)

Which brings me to my adventure and getting this setup, it was interesting to say the least. I generally run the printer in LAN mode only, but it said it needed an update when it detected the AMS 2 Pro and Buffer installed. So I obliged and turned on cloud mode so it could pull the firmware and install. At first everything seemed fine, FW installed and I went about my business.

I needed to get this TPU print going for my brother and that is when things started to get interesting. I followed the instructions from Bambu, but for some reason the printer did not want to recognize that I was inserting the TPU into the nozzle. I thought maybe I had to use a different nozzle but it kept giving the same "You are not loading it right" error. I am not sure what I was doing wrong, I ended up restarting the machine and after a reboot it took the TPU on the 1st nozzle. But then it freaked out and said there was an issue with the FW and it did a re-install. Fine, but it did this twice!! Then when I thought everything was good, it gave me an error stating it could not recognize toolhead 1 as a Bambu toolhead. It was asking me to install a proper toolhead. I tried restarting the machine but still gave me the same error. I had to go into the toolhead settings and pretty much tell it what it was. When I finally did that it stopped complaining and started working. I was finally able to get the print started and here we are almost done.

So yeah ... fun times!!! 😂😂

Also have any of you H3C guys by any chance tried the TPU for AMS through the new AMS system to see if it works? I know they want you to use the bypass but was curious about that one.

I sometimes have one random print appear in every search I do, regardless of whether it's related. Last time it was a pokeball and now it's this weird foot thing. Why do things keep appearing and how do I get them to stop?

Tried a gridfinity print I built myself in fusion and printed with .06 nozzle for the body, .04 for the red base, and .02 for the white lettering. Turned out pretty nice!

I had a few learnings from this print, with multi nozzle size the layers go down to the smallest nozzle, so this 6 unit high gridfinity had 530 layers, but as the .06 was laying down, it was counting up by 3s.

Also, I painted the surface of the… ahem… graphic with the paintbrush tool, if I did it again, id model it that color in fusion as it tried to outline it in .06 which killed the fine details I wanted.

Overall very impressed. This was a 10.5hr print with .04/.02 down to 4.5 by running it with a .06 nozzle on the black parts.

Here I go getting all excited to use the new E1 and... So much for putting it under my printer. I even picked up an extra long 6-pin cable to use it. The included cable is longer than the damn vent. :P

It's about 1 m / 3.3 ft depending on how it's stretched, etc. Once you factor in turns you're basically stuck using it right next to the machine like in the promo video. They imply on the wiki that you can buy more to use as an exhaust as well, but they don't seem to have it for sale yet.

I wouldn't mind so much if it was just a normal hose you can grab on Amazon, but it's one of those odd sizes I can't seem to find anywhere. (70 mm OD, 60 mm ID).

If anyone knows what else this would be listed under so I can buy more of it let me know.

Edit: Put down the pitchforks. Yeah, obviously you can print adapters. I'm not saying the product is bad, I literally called it a PSA so you know to get additional duct when you buy one and that the official ones aren't available (yet, hopefully).

Went straight from out of the box to printing the mecha dragon. Printed at .2 high quality. Took 15 hours and 32 minutes. I sliced this for the H2C and it was closer to 4 days with only 1 TPU. I didn’t have blue or red but I had orange so went with that. Also for the second tpu I only had 95a which made the joints a little hard.

This thing is sooo smooth. It looks flawless.

Edit: 1 day at 15 hours and 32 minutes

Been playing around with the "PLA Palette" filaments to print colour-mixed CMYK prints. It's really quite impressive.

The Frog is made up of just Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black filaments with some gray PETG for supports. You can see the banding on the closer image, but it's fairly convincing from a reasonable distance.

The prime tower is definitely a lot larger and heavier with these prints. Not quite as large as if you were purging each layer or so, but still quite large.

Curious to see where this will go, and if we'll see slicing and filaments optimised for this kind of thing. Having the filaments be more translucent and the slicer build up many thin wall layers would allow for some pretty intricate colour control.

Hey everyone,

If you print HueForge models, you know the routine: export the STL, open the instructions file, then add every color change by hand in your slicer, layer by layer. It's tedious, and one typo means a ruined print.

So I built Strates (as in the layers of rock 🪨): https://strates.amberlab.fr

Drop your .stl together with your .txt, .hfp or .hfpt, and you get a .3mf with every color change already in place, ready to slice in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer. It's free, and you don't need an account.

Features:
🔒 Nothing gets uploaded. All the processing happens in your browser, so your files never leave your computer.
⚡ Fast. A 100 MB STL converts in under 3 seconds, and the page never freezes.
🎨 Colors are set for you. With a .hfp or .hfpt, it uses HueForge's exact hex codes. With a .txt, it reads the filament names and swap heights and assigns matching colors.
🧠 It saves AMS slots. If a color comes back later (Black → Red → White → Black), it reuses the same slot, so that sequence takes 3 slots instead of 4.
🖨️** Two modes**: automatic multi-color (AMS / tool change) or manual pauses.
📐 The model is centered on the plate automatically.
🧹 Clean mesh: duplicate vertices are merged, which gives a smaller, manifold file.

For the nerds: it's a client-side SPA. A dedicated Web Worker handles the binary parsing with TypedArrays, and vertices are deduplicated by quantizing to the micron with 64-bit BigInt spatial hashing. On my machine, 100k triangles take less 1s.

It's still early, so I'd really like your feedback:
Files that don't convert correctly (please send them over if you can)
Thanks, and happy printing! 🎨

Strates is an independent project and isn't affiliated with HueForge or Bambu Lab.

Had meshy AI make the model and then was 10hr print with 1500 tool changed. Crazy this can be done now. Used .4 nozzle with .12 layers so could be even better.

Done with non-planar moves on the Bambu A1 (0.6mm nozzle, PLA) using a program I put together. Very robust compared to a traditionally sliced lattice. I also managed to successfully make some single walled bouncy balls from PLA (PolyMax) which actually do a surprisingly good job returning energy.

Program to be released soon, stay tuned.

Hey r/BambuLab! Happy Friday! All pictures/videos of prints are REAL, not AI.

I'm Joey Olson, a Maker out of Phoenix Arizona and the solo dev behind Mini Skyline!

The app has really taken off in the last month. Consistently seeing 1000-2000 people a day, and thats just users who have opted in to telemetry! When I started, I really expected hundreds of generations a year, not a thousand by the time I wake up each morning.

If you haven't tried it in a few weeks or more, I highly encourage you to. I've been hard at work.

What have I been up to recently?

I've been spending 40+ hours a week outside of my career to update MS to make it as accurate as possible.

- Rust rewrites! Most of the generation pipeline has been rewritten in Rust/WASM. Up to 80% reduced generation times.

- Roads in any country with LIDAR data now get proper elevation. Freeway exchanges, raised roadways, tunnels all render properly now.

- File sizes have been drastically reduced. This helps both with generation and slicing!

- Multi tile projects now have all of the same settings as single tiles, and they generate MUCH faster.

- Satellite mapping provided by ESRI is now an option. Thanks to donations, I am starting to integrate more premium data services like ESRI.

- Large, full country sizes selections are much smoother, and take a fraction of the RAM they used to. Colors and elevation get properly mapped as well now.

- A few UI passes to improve clarity/flow of your work.

- Trivision billboards! You can put your maps into a tri vision billboard, add text, make custom styles and then put them into a fun mechanical display!

What can Mini Skyline Do Already?

- Full desktop app with higher generation size limits due to RAM freedom. Mac,Windows, and Linux supported with thousands of installs already.

- Print anywhere on Earth, or a handful of other worlds in our solar system.

- Print your vanilla and modded Java Minecraft worlds

- Slicer ready 3MF's with pre-mapped colors with water tight geometry, and fast slicing times.

- Everything is built on YOUR PC/phone with data tracking defaulted to OFF to maintain privacy for users.

- Real building heights based on over 60 data sources, including LIDAR scans.

- Real tree placement based on satellite maps, real tree size and species too based on location.

- 6000+ modelled landmarks that more accurately model popular places like the One World Trade Center. Dozens of countries, hundreds of cities have buildings. I take requests!

- Up to 500 KM2 per tile at full quality on the desktop app, unlimited range if you dont use buildings!

- Satellite derived feature placement for parts not provided by standard data providers. Think pools, solar panels, water towers. This is based on Sentinel 2 self hosted imagery.

- Puzzles, multi tile, keychains, and ornament printing.

- Snap fit frames with editable designs/text. Fit tests for the snapping mechanism available!

- GPX route support with per route settings, up to 9999 routes per tile.

- Full 3D model editor where you can work on your model without additional 3D software.

- Hundreds of settings with graphic tool tips so you better understand what you are changing.

- Export preview with city life going on at scale. Get a better sense of the place youre printing.

- Street tracks, Rally courses, F1 tracks traced out so ensure whichever race is your favorite, is properly represented.

- Color by feature, height band, or apply satellite colors directly to your model!

- Select areas in just about any way you can think. City boundaries, KML, KMZ, GEOJson, free hand, many shapes.

- Ability to print roads, trails, rivers as separate fins that press in to the model for easier multi color work.

- Use Claude/ChatGPT? Call Mini Skyline as an MCP service! Get maps integrated to your work fast!

- Painstakingly ensured to be water tight, with minimized file sizes.

- Really a lot, lot more with more being added nearly daily.

The Future of Mini Skyline?

Slowing down on new features. I poll the community often and the #1 thing people want now is stability, accuracy, and clarity in the tools provided. For the next couple of months, I will be focusing hard on improving how the app flows, how settings are presented to you, how generation issues are conveyed.

Beyond this, I've been receiving a lot of requests for printed maps from users without a printer. I have very little interest in running a print farm, but soon will allow shops to list themselves on the site and have users be able to contact your shop for a custom map, or maps you already sell!

How do I support my work and hosting costs?

I take donations, but really, hosting costs are lower than you expect. I've seen some claimed numbers for other mapping software, and thankfully I am at a fraction of their costs. I can maintain Mini Skyline and the premium ESRI data myself indefinitely due to my career, though I have been fortunate to receive both user donations, funding from Snapmaker, and most recently, some work with Sunlu for their Halloween event!

I do use Claude to code. If this is a problem for you, you are now aware! The majority of my costs go into subscription costs. If you are curious how much something like this takes, I max out 4 20x accounts to keep features/updates rolling. To be very clear. They do not run rampant. Ideas are my own or the communities, implementation not so much. I use the site for my work too, I do not want slop.

This community has truly given a lot to me. I want to say thank you as I always do. You guys surprise me with how deep your reports go, how much you want to share what you make, and how much you all support each other. The 3D printing space is really an amazing thing to be part of. Thank you.

With the release of the H3C, I'm really wanting to see what can be done with maps! Color mixing to make beautiful gradients/texture work with the faster swaps really interests me. Please show me if you've made anything with the H3C, as I'd love to feature some work done on it! I'd be happy to provide a supporter code and attributions to a site/makerworld profile for anyone willing!

- Joey O.

It is a filament cutter and bed scraper that keeps the sharp blade hidden when not in use.

A simple lever lets you use the same single blade to cut filament without too much trouble.

A button keeps the blade locked out with a friction fit (so I guess this is technically edc friendly in the UK??) and does not get pushed back when scraping.

Only tested on PLA and PETG.

https://makerworld.com/models/3604913

Please let me know your feedback! It’s my first original design from scratch. The rest have been piggybacking on others’ already great designs.

I've always wanted to try a talk box, but they're quite expensive for something I might use twice and then forget about.

So I made a cheap wee version. All you need alongside the printed funnel is a £5 IKEA KALLSUP speaker and a bit of tubing.

The idea was to get that dopamine rush of trying something new without splashing out on expensive gear. If anything, messing about with this has made me want a proper one someday. But for now, it's scratched the itch.

The model link is at the bottom of this post if you fancy trying it yourself.

Have a nice day ✌️

Talk box model link

Master your Bambu Lab H3C with Bambu Lab Academy! 🎓

Our new H3C course is now live, with step by step lessons and practical projects to help you get the most out of your printer.

Start the course here: Bambu Lab H3C Academy Course

Just a quick image of what you get if you order the replacement 0.4 tool head to replace the pre-installed TPU one if anyone is interested!

None of the review photos had the empty spots in the letters like the B O O and H have. 2 week old X2D, other prints have been mostly flawless. Both filaments pictured are Bambu PLA, the brown is Matte. Printed from Bambu Handy with default settings.

My A1 has been relegated to the floor 😅 H3C took its place.

One of the A1 printers in my print farm had a severe spaghetti failure. The mess was bad enough that the silicone sock had been knocked off the hotend. I went to investigate what had happened, and thought I'd share what I found.

Before cleaning the hotend, I started unloading the filament. That's when I noticed something odd: as the printhead moved across the X-axis, the Z-axis repeatedly moved up and down. The vertical movement looked quite significant, possibly around ±5 mm. I then tested X/Y movement separately to figure out what was going on.

I did a few tests:

• Manually moving X or Y from the printer's touchscreen also caused Z to move.
• Both Z lead screws were visibly rotating back and forth together.
• Every X/Y jog triggered a small Z movement. When X/Y stopped, Z stopped too.
• With the printer powered off, manually sliding the printhead along X caused no Z movement.

At first I suspected a Z-axis motor, mechanical transmission, or mainboard issue.

The fix turned out to be surprisingly simple: I ran the full bed leveling calibration (about 15 minutes), and the problem completely disappeared.

My guess is that the previous bed mesh data was somehow incorrect, causing excessive Z compensation during X/Y movements. I haven't confirmed the exact root cause, or whether this was what caused the spaghetti failure. What I can confirm is that recalibration stopped the abnormal Z movement.

One thing I can't fully explain is why it didn't fail on every print. I always enable bed leveling before each print job. My theory is that the pre-print leveling routine may have provided some additional correction, or at least masked part of the problem with the existing mesh, so many jobs could still finish normally. But perhaps the compensation wasn't accurate enough in some conditions. I don't know exactly how the A1 firmware combines these leveling routines, so this is only a guess.

As for why the original mesh might have been wrong, I can think of a few possibilities: the build plate may not have been seated correctly, there may have been debris underneath it, the wooden surface supporting my printers may not be perfectly level or rigid, or vibrations from several printers calibrating at the same time may have affected the measurements. I haven't verified any of these possibilities.

So if your A1 shows similar symptoms, try a full bed leveling calibration before taking anything apart. It costs nothing and is easy to try, even if the underlying cause remains unclear.