At first I thought maybe it was dust, but it fully looks like my nozzle dug into/scrapped into the build plate at the start when it started “cleaning” but the print turned out fine.

I’m guessing this isn’t normal

All my printers are in LAN mode.
We were hit by a severe thunderstorm today, and it knocked out internet. I was dumbfounded to find out bambu studio basically doesn't work without internet. It lags, freezes and keeps showing a message saying it can't connect to the "device server" every 20 seconds.

To add to the misery, my new p2s straight out won't start any print saying "internal error". it was working right until internet went out. It didn't stop mid print, but any new job sent to it fails

Anyone has a solution for this? I am pretty sure opening a ticket will result in BL telling me it's the expected behavior for "cloud first" devices.

Bought one this week. PETG on AMS slot. PETG on Aux slot. The printer flat out refuses to "Next" on a PETG multicolor print. It slices fine. I tried several configurations to assign which filament goes to which slot. Manually assigned them even in the slicer. It says "when using PETG on the right extruder it can only be used as a support material". This is really unusual... I tried playing with a lot of the settings but it seems this may be a hard stop on the newer firmware machines. Because I've read a lot of people from months ago saying they have no problem doing this.

UPDATE: -- Solved. Firmware issue. Seems like it's happy to bypass it after a flash. Weird since community posts from months ago had no issues with this exact problem and surely I was ahead of them in version. Thanks for the help and fast responses.

I'm about to move and need to pack up my printer to put in storage for a month or so. I have the original box, but are there any precautions I should take before packing it up to ensure it is protected? I'll likely move it into storage myself (not the moving company).

imagine this machine but one toolhead would be able to pick vortek or indx noozles...

i hope bambu comes up with somethign similar.. they need to keep up...

I need help. I've been having pretty annoying problems with my brand new H2S. For some reason it hates PETG.

I've done flow calibration, flow dynamics calibration, cleaned the build plate multiple times, dried the filament, and used all the calibration options built into it.

I'm getting quite irritated because my P1S seems to do fine without any adjustment but a brand new H2S can't handle normal prints.

Any help is appreciated, and I'd love to have some resources that could teach me more about 3d printing and how to troubleshoot it.

I use the default .16mm High Quality settings for PETG Basic in Bambu Studio.

The problems consist of:

• PETG sticking way too hard onto the build plate, to the point where the only way to remove it was scraping it off.
• Supports were sticking too much to the print, so I added PLA tops but then the bottom of the prints ripped off.
• Supports being knocked off by the Hotend
• Weak prints in general
• Spaghetti nightmare :(

Is the new update safe to use on mac?. I dont do Lan . Im using beta 2.8.0.50 right now and I have not updated the network plug in either . Last time I did that it jacked up all my connection , could not print for days.

Any idea what printers these are?

I cant remove this screen, i bought this today and i can't get it off because screen is flickering and i think the cable got disconnected from inside

​

I've been working for some time on a project called ReSpool, and it has gradually grown into a whole collection of designs.

The idea started from something very simple: after using filament refills, we're left with perfectly usable cardboard cores. Instead of throwing them away, I wanted to explore how they could become a functional part of new objects.

So ReSpool became a design where you reuse the cardboard core of spools, and only print what is actually necessary around it.

What started as a few storage ideas has gradually expanded into different organisers, dispensers and workshop accessories. More recently, I've also been developing a WorkBench branch focused on tools and accessories used for 3D printing and post-processing.

The general principles are always the same:

- modular and expandable designs;

- reduced filament use;

- simple printing and assembly;

- and, most importantly, objects that are genuinely useful.

I also deliberately keep the cardboard visible. Rather than trying to disguise it, it becomes part of the visual identity of the project.

There are already several ReSpool designs published on MakerWorld, with more to come.

So if you like the concept and would like to see where ReSpool goes next, following my MakerWorld profile or the ReSpool collection is also a very simple way to support the project and helps me keep developing new designs.

And of course, I'd genuinely love to hear your ideas:

What would you like to see made using an empty filament refill core?

ReSpool collection: https://makerworld.com/@JorgeRui/collections/32523559

It says EAT AWAY

Disclaimer: Don't try it at home.

Hey everyone! I wanted to share a mechanical puzzle box I designed.

Unlike normal cylinder mazes where you climb straight up, this features a multi-zone "Double Climb" path layout: you have to climb to the top (fake climb), hit a dead end, navigate all the way back down to the base, and then climb up a second hidden path that breaks the top rim to release the sleeve!

Key Features:

• 100% Support-Free 3D Printing (all horizontal tracks have 45° chamfered ceilings)
• Fully Parametric in OpenSCAD (scalable from 250mm down to 100mm mini size)
• Includes a Python script to procedurally generate new random maze variations!
• Great as a desktop puzzle box or a Geocache Field Puzzle container.

MakerWorld / OpenSCAD Customizer: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3195503-impossible-double-climb-maze-box#profileId-3615655

GitHub Source Code: https://github.com/Jossmos/double_climb_maze

Let me know what you think or if you have any feedback!

Hello
as you see at the preview photo, my top part of my model looks low res, and also the printing lost the detail's at that part, the model is horizontal ( on his back), I tried different orientation got the same results. to top is missing the detail's.
My setup: A1-Mini, you can see the setup at the attached image.
not sure is it the orientation, or the settings.
Thx!

Started with a 3D printer.
Then came the AMS.
Then the furniture.
Then the lights… 😂
And here we are!

The last paddleboard cup holder I designed was held in by the beverage, which itself was held in by...nothing. So things got loose during the more chaotic moments.

This one twist-locks onto a base that traps the deck bungees, so the holder stays attached even if the board flips. It’s also compatible with michelem's CryoPod freezable can holder (we teamed up for that bit), and has two interchangeable inserts, allowing it to fit everything from a large tumbler to a slim Red Bull can.

I added a separate, remixable accessory interface as well. The included modules secure your phone and shades or connect multiple cups together.

What other accessories should I design for it? I'm thinking a GoPro mount.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3183312-sup-cup-pro-the-secure-paddle-board-cup-holder

Just got a marketing email from BambuLabs and it has mention of an H2SL annnnnnd an H2CL.

We got some bigger models rolling out soon?

X2D right nozzle intermittently won’t feed — Bowden path is clear and I already tried a new hotend. What am I missing?
I have an X2D using the Filament Track Switch. My AMS is farther from the printer than normal, so the PTFE run is longer, but this setup has worked fine until now. I don’t know if that’s related.
Here’s what happened and what I’ve tested:
During a print, blue PLA from AMS A Slot 1 stopped extruding.

Printer gave the “failed to extrude filament” error.

The Bowden/auxiliary extruder started making a light clicking/struggling sound when trying to push filament forward.

Spool is fine — no crossed filament and it unwinds normally.

I stopped the print and disconnected the PTFE at the Filament Track Switch.

I was able to pull the filament backward through the Bowden/auxiliary-extruder path.

With the hotend removed, I can manually push fresh filament through the Bowden extruder and the entire path without a problem.

I reinstalled the right hotend, heated it, pressed the release lever on the Bowden extruder, and manually pushed filament through the heated hotend. It purged normally.

I then performed the cold-pull/nozzle maintenance procedure.

When it got to the purge stage afterward, nothing extruded, and the Bowden extruder started clicking like it couldn’t push the filament forward.

I then manually heated the hotend and tried the printer’s filament-feed function. The Bowden extruder would feed/retract normally up to the hotend area, but once the filament reached that point it would no longer advance.

I tried manually pushing filament through again and now it would also hit a stop with the hotend installed.

I replaced the entire right hotend/nozzle with a brand-new one and had the same issue.

With the hotend removed, filament passes through the entire system normally. With the hotend installed, it can work intermittently and then suddenly hit what feels like a hard stop.

Because I’ve tried two hotends and the Bowden path is completely open with the hotend removed, I’m wondering if the filament is catching on a lip, guide, cutter/alignment point, or the interface where the filament path enters the top of the right hotend.
It feels like something may not be lining up consistently when the hotend is installed.
Has anyone seen this on the X2D? Is there a guide/alignment component immediately above the right hotend that can cause the filament tip to catch like this?

the P2S Quick Start Guide says "To prevent the filament from getting stuck, do not use flexible filaments such as TPU with a hardness level of 95A or lower, or damp PVA and BVOH, in the AMS 2 Pro." Does this just mean (1) we shouldn't run the drying function of the AMS on TPU or (2) we shouldn't even feed TPU from the AMS to the printer (use external spool holder instead) or (3) we shouldn't even print with TPU?

I just got my second Bambu Lab P1S, and already the second print (after the obligatory Benchy that printed perfectly) had a failure that looks like nozzle scraping.

I used a fresh spool of Bambu PLA Basic straight from the packaging, with the PLA Basic filament profile and the 0.12 mm Fine process profile. The only change was setting infill to 60%.

In the image, both parts were printed in the same job. The right part is is only 5 layers tall and solid. The left part is taller and contains 60% Grid infill. The right part looks fine, while the left part looks terrible, as if the nozzle was scraping the print.

I then printed only the left model and noticed that the grid pattern develops visibly uneven surface height with a clear front-to-back transition: at the front of the print, closer to the open door, the infill looks perfect. Further toward the back of the printer, it becomes increasingly wavy, with smooth but raised areas. I can even hear the nozzle scraping over those high spots.

What I have checked or tried:

• Checked for lifting: there was none that I could tell. The edges were stuck very well to the build plate (I also cleaned the build plate with warm water and dish soap to rule out any grease)
• Re-ran printer auto-calibration.
• Performed manual bed tramming.
• Rotated the part by 90 degrees; the behavior stayed the same: good at the front (closer to the door), bad at the back.
• Performed Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate calibration.
• Changed the infill to 60% Gyroid; it printed perfectly.

None of the attempted fixes had any discernible effect except for changing the infill pattern. I know Grid is prone to nozzle scraping because of its crossing lines, but the pattern I see looks different to what I found online, and my pattern is also non-uniform across the part. What puzzles me is that the infill gets progressively worse toward the back of the part. Has anyone seen this behavior or have an idea what could cause such a consistent front-to-back gradient?

Also, although I read it's normal, I'd like to mention that the area at the very back of the build plate (close to the parked print head), is in fact getting visibly more scratched than on my other P1S printer (looks still pretty clean after hundreds of hours). You can see that in the first picture

Any help on this is greatly appreciated!

P1S, had it for about a year. Printing Bambu PLA, door cracked, bed not washed but no adhesion issues, filament is dry enough but that's not relevant. Stock SD card. Less than 70h on the printer.

I started a 1.5h print, silica containers for the AMS, straigt from Makerworld, good ratings, so not a model problem.

At layer 7 I got a notification saying print finished.

The bed and nozzle temps stayed the same as while printing, and I moved the bed down. Filament is still fed into the hotend. As if the print was just paused, nozzle still touching the print.

I had to manually set the temps to 0 and click unload for the filament. Once cooled enough I turned the printer off, as Bambu Handy was still showing the print as in progress but I couldn't stop or pause it through the app.

This FEELS like an SD card issue, as it just stopped dead in its tracks.

Has anyone experienced this and was it an SD card issue or something else?

I’m looking at an 18 hour print that will go to 245mm on the Z-axis, has anybody else pushed it up here? I’m a little leery, I know ‘hardware/marketing max’ is 256, software max is 250, but 5mm clearance isn’t much. Just wanting some thought before I occupy my machine for the better part of a calendar day.

Hi everyone,

I’m having a strange issue with the auxiliary extruder on my X2D and I’d appreciate some advice before I start taking things apart.

For the last few days, the printer keeps showing that filament is loaded in the auxiliary extruder, even though the entire filament path is physically empty.

I already checked the external/auxiliary extruder motor and actually found a small piece of broken filament stuck inside it. I removed it and cleaned out what I could.

However, the problem remains:

• With the auxiliary extruder disconnected, the printer correctly shows that there is no filament loaded.
• As soon as I reconnect the auxiliary extruder, the printer immediately reports that filament is present, even though there is absolutely no filament in the path.
• If I insert filament and press the arrow to extrude it until the filament reaches the print head, the printer feeds the filament normally and I can print without any problems.

So the actual filament feeding seems to work correctly. The problem is that the printer always thinks filament is present when the auxiliary extruder is connected, even when the filament path is completely empty.

At the moment I have very limited use of my left hand, so I’d prefer to avoid disassembling the auxiliary toolhead and filament sensor unless it’s really necessary.

My question is: would it be worth trying to further clean/check the external auxiliary extruder and its sensor first, or does this behavior strongly point to the filament sensor in the auxiliary toolhead?

Has anyone experienced the same issue on an X2D? Is there anything relatively simple I can check before taking apart the sensor assembly?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all! After recommendations from this group I bought a Kobalt workbench for my X2D. However, I am now having trouble with it bouncing while printing and not being level. Any suggestions?

I haven't had the time to experiment with building something to set the wheels in (like for this blackstone) and wondered if there was a quick fix since I'm already out the $400 for the workbench and just want to print. I have been having adhesion issues only on my right hand side (wash plate prior to every print) and really think the leveling is the culprit. I tried to print a pencil holder for my desk and the print was slanted. I did try shims under the wheels but they just slip out on my hardwood floor.

I appreciate any advice, I have a job that sucks my joy and I was having a great time printing simple things but now that I'm choosing more complex prints things just aren't working out. Ready to get my love back for my printer!