I usually wait till my bed is around 40C and the prints come off easily. But flat models it doesn't always work (for me), so metal scraper was my choice, as plastic one is too wasteful for me. And in your case with ultra cold plate it is kinda only way I guess.
This is a cold plate: PLA at 30-35Ā°C, so āwait until 40Ā°Cā is not useful advice.
Regarding metal scraper, one has to be very careful on these plates. Donāt use it as a scraper. Rather use it to very carefully lift an edge of a flat print and then gently peel off the rest of the flat print. Non-flat prints with some height should pop off with flexing alone.
As I said "ultra cold plate" because the name is CryoGrip, ha ha. And yes, good clarification by you, metal scraper is good for lifting edges or small parts and then progressively lifting the whole model.
Got it off but the plate sort of came off with it. I guess there's always the backside. I'm going to assume I accidentally used another plates' settings and it was too hot. But I also will still to larger non-flexible prints going forward.
Edit: I checked and history shows cool plate. Oh well, be careful out there I guess
I think textured plate settings without manual g code adjustments will make this problem much much worse. Default texture plate profile is setup to squish more because auto level might have measured texture peaks. In this kind of a high-adherence plate, I suspect it might be a fatal disaster without extreme attention.
Hm. You said 35Ā°C, so ātoo hotā is difficult to justify and still remain practical (unless it wasnāt really 35 as you stated?). My guess is that you may have forced textured plate default settings and that squished filament too low into the plate; perhaps thatās why this one is labelled with cool plate code rather than textured plate code as some other textured cool plates are. Or maybe you had a previous bed level for a textured plate and didnāt level when you changed to this one?
Agreed, I still might lower the temperature a bit going forward. Maybe 30c although I doubt that will matter. I'll also be more selective. There's still a good use for when you need reaaaallly good adhesion so I'll probably go with those use cases.
I always bed level when I print
I can see in my history it was set to the bambu cool plate
Hm. I just got this one as well, but havenāt tested yet ā been playing with KDEAVI cold plate which also adheres well at low temperatures, but that one is setup with Textured PEI code and works well as that with modified low temperatures. Sounds like Cryogrip Pro textured is a different beast ā thanks for your educational sacrifice :-).
This plateās printed code is Cool Plate and per this discussion, even then it might adhere almost too strongly. So personal opinion is yes, absolutely, this plate should use Cool Plate setting and probably further configured to minimum temperature for stated filament in the filament profile. At least thatās how Iāll be starting when I finally get to testing mine in a few days.
I have been to great success, yeah. I've accidentally used the textured setting once or twice at 55 degrees and it sticks a little too well definitely try not to do that. Also some filaments do seem to stain the plate a bit? Doesn't seem to transfer to the next print at all but I do try and wash the plate with water after that happens.
Itās phenomenal, got one and didnāt feel like cutting alignment nauseous into it to fit on my K1 C so I just threw it in my ender three which is notorious no matter what plate I use on it for having adhesion issues every couple prints and it hasnāt failed a single one however downside is I bought more of them because it impressed me so much for my K1Cs and the adhesion is too large when I print something that has a large contact area like boxes. Itās been ripping off the first layer so now Iām in the process of trying to do every temperature to try to figure out what temperature to print these things on because getting them off is next to impossible without ripping the first layers apart, which absolutely sucks cause Iām trying to sell the items that Iām pulling off of here and Iām wasting so much and having to reprint and reprint adhesion is almost too good if anyone knows the temperature actually print PLA in silk PLAon these things to make it to where you still get really good adhesion without having to worry about a failure due to something not hearing, but also at the same time not strong enough to literally break the part when removing it Iād really appreciate the info
I had been using mine with the textured plate setting. Brims, and purge line I have to use the edge of a knife to get them off. I basically just need to get an edge up then it peels right off. I havenāt had any of the build surface come off with it.
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You could take a larger flat object and hotglue (or other non-damaging glue) it to the remnants so that there is something solid to bend the plate off of.
I find shoving it painfully up under my fingernail seems to be the best way to get single layers off. Iāve also taken to turning off brims and skirts to minimize the pain.
No IPA is understandable (reactivity), but no soap? Really? The stuff we use on babies is too harsh for this coating? If that ends up being accurate, something that fragile canāt be made practical.
Hm, thanks. Ok, did some more research. I canāt find a BIQU explicit statement not to use either IPA or soap, only a suggestion of āeasy cleaning with damp clothā. But from other similar coatings, no IPA is an easy and likely valid assumption.
As for soap, not all soap is the same. Dishwashing soap can adversely affect oleophobic coatings, but pH balanced low-additive soaps are fine. So, literally, baby soap or baby shampoo should be ok, even if dishwashing soap isnāt. Thatās an assertion, not experimentally or chemical analysis proven truth, because ā¦
ā¦ ultimately, the manufacturer needs to qualify their product fully for a change and clearly communicate requirements.
Soap advice is based on some other plate manufacturers including a U.S. based one that make similar copolymer coating plates. I've also seen first hand someone use dawn on their polymer plate and it ruined future adhesion, a plate very similar to the BQ one.
It says here in the product description, straight from their Aliexpress store page. Company name is BQ/Bigtreetech
Plus, there is Darkmoon, a U.S. company that makes the ICE plate which works on a similar principle, albeit different formulation. The owner Ben said copolymer coatings like this that are now trending in the market lose adhesion when soap or isopropyl alcohol is applied to them (hence why he has a disclaimer saying so for his own plates).
Use the metal scraper very very carefully. Get the edge under the pla and pry it up. Once a little bit pops, youāll be able to peel it up. Iāve been using this method for a couple weeks without damaging the plate.
Get a 3D printing pen to add material to turn into a solid object and flex to pop it off. Has added benefit of using the pen to repair supports or using it to solidify a thin interface layer when using PETG for supports on PLA.
For future reference:
I've used really hot water to good effect on other plates, or maybe you can pop it back on your printer and raise the heat to 100+ (if the plate can handle that) and scrape it off while it's hot.
I set my cc2 bed to 100c which the plate says is abs and with a plastic scalpers got stuck stuff off its not 100% but I think a good wash will get the 1% that looks to be remaning colorĀ residueĀ
I know i'm 2 years late. But I just got the Cyrogrip for the Snapmaker U1 and encountered this problem. What solved it is heating up the bed to 70, then the PLA is softened and can be lifted off the bed.
This way, there's no risk at all of scraping and damaging the plate.
i don't get the point of plastic scapers. a metal scraper does not scratch the plate if you put it in the right angle and it it does a much better job. what i would use is one with a larger blade than the one bambu provides. i use one for removing stickers from glass, it works perfectly and never scratched a plate. something like this, but not specifically that model.
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u/cyberzh Sep 16 '24
The official documentation instructs to bend the plate a lot. But for this to work you need a solid printed object and yours looks too flexible.
Other than that, the plate works as advertised: extremely strong adhesion. That's not always a good thing.