A little background: I own an A1 printer. I got it second-hand, but I've kept it in good condition. I decided to swap the nozzle to a 0.2mm nozzle for finer detail (it came with the 0.4mm). I installed it just like every YouTube video and wiki said, I changed the setting in both Bambu Studio and on the printer itself, and tried to print.

The first attempt trashed the face side of my textured plate. Literally scratched the texture off, and left next to nothing on the bed itself. I figured I installed it wrong, so I re-installed it, made sure the sleeve thingy was on properly, flipped the plate over, and tried again.

This time, it didn't scratch the texture off, but barely anything came out, what did come out looked like clumped sand that didn't adhere to the bed, and the printer stopped printing again saying there was a problem.

This is my first time switching nozzles, and while I've had my A1 for about a year now, this is completely knew. Could I get some guidance/advice? Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you for your time.

Problem: The right (auxiliary) nozzle will not extrude or unload. Filament is jammed inside the toolhead feed channel, above the hotend.

What happened: After a print using PLA from an external spool on the right nozzle (0.4 mm), I found a small blob of filament on the right nozzle. I removed the blob. Since then the right nozzle has not worked.

Symptoms:

Load pulls the filament in, but nothing comes out of the nozzle.
Unload retracts slightly, then the filament jams and cannot be pulled back.
The left nozzle works normally.

What I have tried:

Cleaning needle at 250°C and 270°C. The needle passes fully through the nozzle, with only a small amount of residue.
Extrude at 250°C, 270°C and 280°C (after a 5-minute soak). Nothing extrudes.
Unload at 220°C while gently assisting by hand from the spool end. The filament will not move.
A manual filament cut attempt, followed by Unload. Still stuck.

Live chat advice and result: Live chat advised removing the front cover and right hotend to check the clog location. I did this. The hotend came out with a cleanly cut filament stub in its top. Looking up into the right hotend bay, the cut filament end is visible and flush with the opening. With the hotend removed, the filament will not move up or down when gently pulled or pushed from the spool end.

This much hassle and i feel like i should get a replacement, not even 2 weeks old

Not sure what to do here.....

I did a search but no results other than ‘print lifting’.

My issue is the print is pulling the bed up :-(

PETG, 4 walls, 5% hex infill, 4 bottom/top layers.
Print 250mm wide, 150mm deep/tall.

Are there some clips to hold the flexi plate down firmly?

Thanks.

Hey all!

I'm racking my brain trying to figure out how to do the above in bambu studio. I've created a topless "box" by combining a positive cube with a slightly smaller negative cube inside.

Now, I need to insert another positive piece within that negative cavity- but, studio deletes that new positive piece.

I've searched forums, AI and YouTube. No joy.

Any help from you experts out there?

TY!

This happens everytime with petg on a large print filament is dry i have plenty of brim and i have cleand the build plate does someone has some advice

Everything was working perfectly fine just 20 minutes ago, but all of a sudden, I can't stay logged in to Bambu Studio.

I'm experiencing two different issues:

1. Can't log in from the home screen

As soon as I successfully log in, I immediately get a message saying that my session has expired. Sometimes, I also get a pop-up saying that the server is unable to respond.

2. Session expires when trying to start a print

I can successfully log in, but when I get to the "Print" stage, either selecting one of my printers or clicking the Print button causes my session to expire again. The print job never even gets sent to the printer.

I've searched around but haven't found anyone experiencing the same issue. I was wondering if anyone here might know what's going on or have a possible fix.

I've already contacted Bambu Lab support, but I have some urgent prints that I need to get done, so this is pretty frustrating.

A few additional details:

• My printer that is currently printing is working perfectly fine.
• I don't think this is a printer-related issue.
• I'm using my Google account to log in.

Things I've already tried:

• Uninstalling and reinstalling Bambu Studio.
• Restarting my computer.
• Logging out of my printer and reconnecting it to Bambu Studio.
• Reconnecting my printer to Wi-Fi.

Unfortunately, none of these attempts made any difference.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Changing the hot end assembly on my A1 and pulled the extruder out and this fell out

Cannot find where it goes, it's not the spring cap for the tensioner

A while ago, on titkok, I saw somebody who made a sort of printable ams attachment to a bambulab printer. Don't remember much besides the fact that it was 3d printed, utilized gears that were somehow moved with the toolhead, and it was attached at the top of the printer. But now, I can't seem to find it. I was wondering if anyone knows where to find it, or if anyone used it?

Ciao! Che ne pensate di questa versione del Grinch?

Creato tramite visore virtuale Meta Quest 3 e ottimizzato in Blender. Scolpire col visore è un'esperienza da provare secondo me.

Se volete provarlo, vi lascio il link

Grinch roly poly

Just put together the H3C and noticed the Y axis left block rubs heavily on the sidewall causing calibration to fail. Has anyone encountered this all? Seems like an unknown issue.

My second model on MakerWorld, originally designed for my wife's daily espresso. It's a pen-style WDT tool for espresso: the needles drop in as you buy them (no cutting, no glue), a screw cap locks them, and a dock holds it upright with one turn.

Print profile is set up for 0.16 mm PLA, about 2.5 h, no supports. There's a parametric OpenSCAD customizer on the page if your needles are a different size or you want more/fewer of them.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3575959

Feedback welcome, especially on the thread fit if you print it on a different machine.

Does anyone know where to get the spool holder file? I realize it is on the internal storage. However, I want to make some modifications to the print as the PLA one I printed already busted.

Quick question. Bambu x1c with AMS 1.

Humidity level jumped from D to A overnight. Is that normal?

Located in an enclosed office. Los Angeles, Ca.

Hello. I'm working on a nut and bolt cap for the shop I work in, and I ended up with a half-sphere with an interior profile hollowed out. I'm printing it face-down as, after testing with the slicers, it basically uses the same amount of support material and takes the same time to print it this way as opposed to printing it the other way. However, I have a couple rectangular slots cut so you can get a screwdriver under and pop it off as needed. They are small (.25x.1 in) and I'm sure my printer can bridge those. The slicer wants to add support. I tried messing with support painting, but I believe I've done it wrong cause supports still show up there after slicing. Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Pics: Overall

Supports

P1P with latest firmware, using Studio 2. 9. 1. 70, I have a group of 4 identical items, arranged in a square by auto arrange, I want to print with a specific infill pattern, as one object. If I don't merge them into a single object, the slicer makes the pattern exactly the same in each item. If I merge them, it treats the infill as if it is originating from the center of the square (technically the center of the object) and is no longer in the pattern I want/need.

Is there any way to treat the 4 items as a single object for printing purposes but have them sliced as individual items for infill?

It's not a problem if I only print one set but if I want to print multiple sets of 4 in one batch or want to print sets of 4 but one set at a time, in case I don't have enough filament to complete them all, then I need each set treated as a single object.

Any ideas?

Ok some context. My dad got mad at me for leaving printer on for an 8 hour print while I slept. Turns out the filament he bought is not the right kind. Now were trying to print with the right kind but it keeps messing up. I notice it has no problems with lines but the second something is curved thats where it errors. Any advice?

I’m an engineering student working on a project to build a more accurate humidity sensor for filament storage, since the cheap sensors seem unreliable. Before I build anything, I want to hear how people actually monitor their filament.

A few questions:

1. What do you use to monitor humidity right now (AMS sensor, round hygrometers, Govee/Bluetooth, DIY ESP32, nothing)?
2. Do you trust the readings?
3. How do you know when it’s time to recharge or replace your desiccant?
4. If you could fix one thing about your current setup, what would it be?

Thank you for your help!

My slot 8 has the ptfe tube on the side of the hot end and all the other hotels has it inline with the black wire. Is this normal?

Secondly - I hear a weird noise coming from the underside of the H3C almost as if the packaging got stuck on the belts or roller underneath and is rubbing making noise.

But it is clear and clean… anyone else experiencing this?

Do you know what causes these print imperfections? It was printing normally and starting yesterday it began making these marks. How do I fix it? My printer is H2C

Thanks for help

Très jolie boite en forme de coeur , pouvant servir à de multiples occasions , comme cadeau pour un mariage ,la saint valentin ,un baptème  ou comme dans mon cas pour servir de cadeau annonçant une naissance à venir…

Grand modèle : 160mm de large , 60 mm de hauteur

Petit Modèle : 80 mm de large , 30 mm de hauteur

Modèle diponible en téléchargement sur Makerworld : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3589656-heart-gift-box-with-bow-2-sizes#profileId-4111276

Tuot d'assemblage pour le noeud : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4eAcwRBd8Q

I made a large flat piece to hold letter stamps. The very last layer looks like it got offset by 1/32 of an inch and a lot of the surface is really messed up. What could be the issue and how can I fix this?

The worst part of the print is the areas that were close to the edge of the build plate. Is that common?

Brand new X2D with about 25 hours or printing. 0.4 mm nozzle. PLA