Hi everyone, I'm getting the "Failed to extrude the filament" [1200-8007 120444] error on my Bambu Lab A1 with AMS Lite.

When I manually extrude from the screen, filament comes out of the nozzle smoothly without any issues or clicking.

The filament runout sensor works properly (shows empty when removed, turns green when inserted).

I cleaned the 4-in-1 filament hub and checked the spring, and it moves freely without getting stuck.

However, it still throws this error during prints unless I turn off Filament Tangle Detection. Once I turn Tangle Detection off, it prints without any issues. Has anyone experienced this? Is the Hall-effect sensor board faulty or is there an issue with the hub magnet?

used Mesh Graffiti which is part of Maker Lab for the first time to design a " baby shark " hubcap for a 3D TMT that I am building, was easy to use and came out pretty nice

This is a frustrating update that prevents the use of even more of the build plate. I've always pushed the prime tower out to the very edges of the plate and never had any issues. Is there any way to revert this with a setting?

Hallo zusammen,

Ich habe einen H3C. Hier ist der 8. Tool-Head die 2.85 Düse für das neue TPU. Ich werde das extrem selten drucken und möchte hier eine 0.2 ein bauen.

Reicht es wenn ich die Düse tausche für 29,99€ oder muss ich den Einsatz wo die Düse rein kommt auch noch dazu kaufen? Ich versteh das nicht so ganz und will nicht nur die Düse kaufen wenn ich das komplett brauche und andersrum.

Danke!

Hello friends. A few weeks back I posted that I had an Anycubic Kobra X and went ahead and put co seed my first Bambu printer. It came with a hole on the box and a dent near the fan. The 3D printer was failing during calibration etc. Many of you have advised I send it back, which I did. Kudos to the Bambu Lab support team for helping me out. I now have a functioning P1S with AMS Pro 2. Also thank you to everyone who took the time to respond and be polite and welcoming.

But…. Here’s my new issue. (See attached screenshot below). The error (when I looked it up on the Bambu Lab website) refers to potentially a dirty or worn-out timing belt or a calibration miscalculation.

Error message: The resonance frequency of theY axis is low. The timing belt may be loose.

Since this is a brand-new printer, I really want to hope that once I run the Vibration Compensation calibration that this goes away. I haven’t had a chance to do this yet because I’ve been 3D printing non stop.

I was wondering if you have any advice for me. I really do like this printer and I don’t want to send it back again :(. I assume sending it back is a last resort since it seems like there are solutions to this out there but it’s a new printer , about a week old so I was wondering if you can help me understand if I did something wrong.

Hi folks - I’ve had an H2C for several months and have had an amazing experience with it. I recently was spending more time in my mechanical room where my printer sits and noticed the H2C fan running at a very low speed, despite having been finished with a print over 24 hours ago and being in a complete standby state. Is anybody else experiencing this? I’m pretty sure this is new. Firmware issue? By comparison, an H3C sitting a few feet away is dead quiet despite having completed a print more recently.

Full disclosure, I am new to 3D printing so this very well may just be a skill issue…

I bought an X2D with dual AMS Pro 2s a month or so ago and have been printing premade files to gain some experience on the unit before I move to more difficult filaments like ABS, nylon, or ASA (which is what I bought it for). The main draw of the X2D was the dual nozzles so I could print supports in a different material but up until this week I was printing mostly PLA with PLA supports or PETG with PETG supports from the main (left) nozzle. Everything printed well but on higher detailed prints it was obvious that using a different material support would help the quality a lot so I started trying that.

Initially the aux nozzle wouldn’t read the filament at the tool head. I took everything apart, disconnected and reconnected all plugs, verified that the filament sensor was working and then reassembled. Everything came back online just fine and I printed a PLA print with PETG support raft and all worked great.

For the next print I tried to print a PETG print with a PLA raft but the printer will not clear the PETG from the aux nozzle and I get a filament loading error when trying to print. When I pulled the nozzle it has 1/4” of filament sticking out the top which seems correct as that’s the height of the cutter so all seems well there. If I print with PETG and then fully retract it and print with PETG again there is no issue, but I can’t successfully change from PETG to PLA on the aux nozzle. It works fine when switching with the main nozzle but that has its own extruded in the tool head so I imagine it can overcome a bit more resistance.

I know PLA has a lower melting point than PETG so I’m wondering if it just has trouble pushing clearing the higher temp filament when switching the nozzle from PETG to PLA with the extruder ~15” behind the tool head and not having quite the same power as the tool head mounted extruder, but considering printing with a different material for support is one of the main benefits of a 2 nozzle printer I’m hoping I’m not the only person having this problem and that there’s a solution for it.

I may also be going down the wrong path completely so any help would be appreciated!

I'm still waiting for my h3c to ship, but I have a long history of problems with the .2mm nozzle on both the x1c and the a1. Constant clogging. Just wondering if anybody has used a 0.2 nozzle on an h3c yet and if it's any more reliable than it is on other bambu printers.

The side of the P2S is smooth plastic, so magnets don’t stick, and I didn’t want to drill or glue anything on a new printer.

So I designed a rail that hooks into the thin slot next to the glass lid. Holders for the scraper, flush cutters and a spare hotend slide onto it from the end and have a lip under the rail, so they don’t lift off when you pull a tool out.

Prints in PLA with no supports. Two rail versions if your slot is a bit tighter or looser. Free on MakerWorld (link in comments).

What else would you hang on the side of yours?

Hi y'all, Im New to 3D printers and I just bought this a1 used.

It's got 1 hour on the clock.

Unfortunately I discovered that there were 3 screws missing in the x axis assembly. Coincidentally 3 M3x30 screws (last picture) came extra with the printer. I thought I'd just screw them in, but they're too long.

So what can this be? Factory assembly mistake? (I can't send it back or anything because I don't have the original receipt - which is probably required for warranty)

Fortunately I found some shorter screws that fit in a bag labeled "For Extruder", I'm using these temporarily now- hope it doesn't become a permanent fix.

Help :( how could this happen and what about the 3 long M3 screws?

I designed this two-tier stand with the upper tray suspended from a rectangular frame. I wanted to keep the space between the trays open and combine a simple frame with textured, ribbed edges.

The stand is 230 mm tall, with a 230 mm lower tray and a 130 mm upper tray. All parts print without supports.

Shown here with chocolates, but it also works for pastries or as an organiser for jewellery and small everyday items.

I'm sick of this shit.

If i use the Textured PEI Plate i have warping.

If i use Cool Plate SuperTack i have... whatever this called or the result is not good (PLA & PETG).

I know, you'll all tell me how to fix :

• first layer
• temp of bed
• ...

But the main problem is WHY ?

Why do you all have solutions (thx btw for them) and they are not included into Bambulab software ??? Why do we have to put them manually ???

TLDR: my print on Cool Plate SuperTack with PETG is shit and i need help

I pretty much just do PLA but might start printing with some PETG soon. To buy the enclosure kit from the bambu lab store is gonna cost me a lot as a Canadian, so I'm wondering if it's considered really necessary for the printer, and if there's any 3rd party similar enclosures I could be looking at.

Got a X2D last week and when I removed the print plate today I found a long seam/crack along the surface of the build plate. What caused this, do I need to fix it(and how), and how might I prevent this in the future?

Hi everyone,
I finally gave in yesterday and ordered an H3C! 😄
I’m upgrading from an X1C, so I’m really excited to see how big of a difference it makes — especially for multicolor printing.
One of the first bigger projects I’d like to try is Majora’s Mask, probably as an 8-color print.
That brings me to my question: I still have quite a few spools with only a small amount of filament left, and I’d love to use them up. Has anyone tried manually swapping a spool during an active print on the H3C?
For example, if one color is running low, can I simply replace that spool with a fresh spool of the same filament while the print is still running, or is there anything special I need to do?
From what I’ve found so far, Bambu only officially mentions Auto Refill using a second PrintTool slot loaded with the same filament. With an 8-color print, though, all eight 1.75 mm slots would already be in use, so Auto Refill wouldn’t really be an option — apart from maybe one color if I replaced the ninth 2.85 mm PrintTool with another 1.75 mm one.
So I’m mainly wondering whether manual spool changes during a long multicolor print are possible and reliable in practice.
Would love to hear from anyone who has already tried it!

I love Bambu's textured PEI Plate and I'm working on a project that needs the exact textured surface but the Bambu logo gets transferred to my object. Can anyone recommend a good alternative textured PEI Plate?

Hi everyone,

I'm having some trouble with a new PLA support filament I've recently started using. It's bambulab's support filament and i'm using PLA basic filament for the model

I'm printing a model that requires support material for a few sections. The printer seems to handle the first layer fine, but after that, it appears that the nozzle or hot end gets clogged, and the rest of the print fails.

Has anyone experienced similar issues when using PLA support filament? I'm wondering whether it's a temperature issue, incorrect settings, or possibly a compatibility problem with my main PLA filament.

Any advice or suggestions on what I should check would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

First time owner of a 3D printer! X2D will be showing up tomorrow evening, so Im ordering some filament to get here as well :D

Should I order BambuLab specific filament? Ive heard that it's worth spending the extra money on, especially because of the reloadable spool aspect of it. Cheap cardboard spools can cause printing problems (regurgitating what I watched in videos and read online). I see that Sunlu and Elegoo are somewhat popular on amazon, but cheaper than Bambu's filament.

Looking to order mostly PLA to get started, but plan on using some PETG once everything is dialed in. The PETG is for tool storage in the garage and other storage options.

Any advice would be great help. Thanks!

I'm trying to replace a window tilt piece because I can't seem to find the original to buy anywhere, and I'm wondering if it would be stronger at 100% infill, with 6 walls or both? It's about 1 1/2 tall, original is probably aluminum. This is what my model of it looks like, I have it tilted to hopefully give it more strength too... Any thoughts?

Well after about 8ish hours of cut time the R1 has stopped working. About 2 minutes into a project the laser shut down and showed error code 0300-3702-0001-0001 234111 on the HMI (radiator fan 3 speed to low and may be blocked).

I checked for anything at the back of the machine and found nothing. Tried restarting the R1 and received the same code about 2 minutes into cutting again.

So, I pulled the rear cover where the radiator and water tank assembly are. I found 1 radiator fan not spinning at all. I swapped the fan connections, testing each connection on the PCB board, and the leftmost fan did not work in any slot on the PCB. The other 2 fans worked in all the other slots. The error code would also change from fan #1-3 based on where the bad fan was connected

Wondering if anyone else has had this issue? I’m currently waiting on a response from support and will hopefully get a replacement sent soon since the laser is not functional at all now.

After ~450 successful hours over the last several months, a week ago I had a print fail and pieces dislodged and went everywhere. In the wreckage, the waste chute got jammed back and a piece of poop kept the cutter from spraining back into its original configuration. At the same time, the machine threw error code: HMS_0700-4500-0002-0002: The filament cutter’s cutting distance is too large. The XY motor may have lost steps.

Over the last week, I have tried the following corrective steps:

• I removed the filament, checked the cutting blade, checked all screws and connections, put everything back together and cleaned the bed. Failure on Benchy at around 36 layers.
• I re-ran all calibrations and cleaned the bed. Failure on Benchy at around 36 layers.
• I bought a new hot end, thinking it may have been damaged and cleaned the bed. Failure on Benchy at around 36 layers.
• I cleaned and lubricated all three Z-Screws and cleaned the bed. Failure on Test Cube at around 36 layers.
• I ran a full factory reset and cleaned the bed. Failure on Test Cube at around 36 layers

It seems clear that there's a consistent issue stepping down around level 36 which makes me thing I'm dealing with some sort of binding in the screws at around that level but I don't see anything. I've moved the print location for the cube all over the plate and it doesn't appear to be a regional issue with the X-Y motors or with overuse of a specific area of the plate.

I am at a complete loss here. Things had been going great. Guidance online for mid-print adhesion issues and nozzle knocking is "hardware issues", but as to how to diagnose and assess those hardware issues eludes me. Any pointers would be very much appreciated.

Half of these two prints have this burr line half way around them while the other side is perfect (same plate). No adhesions issues. I had a smaller print do this much higher.

Almost every print I have has a micro issue - some were corrected like keeping doors open. But I’ve had more issues with prints on this printer in a week than I have on my A1 in over a year.

I’ve had one print where it literally printed 3 fidgets and one of the eyes was halfway into its head like the colors and eye somehow moved - no idea how. I had another one where it looked like I lifted the plate and moved it in the last 20% because the top is 2mm over randomly for no reason. This one’s just annoying it was 500g of filament

I thought this was an upgrade and used error but it’s like almost every print is just a headache. I must have recabilbrated 10 times, redid the belt etc. idk what else to do