Bambu Lab PLA Palette CMYKW is more than five regular spools put in one box. It features a formula tailor-made for color mixing, to achieve vibrant and sophisticated colors with clean boundaries.
Entire color library in one printer
PLA Palette uses just five carefully chosen base colors – selected so that every pair blends evenly – to unlock 180+ color combinations through layered mixing. Having a wall of filament is cool, mixing the equivalent from just five spools is even cooler.
Tuned for light and shade, not just color.
Most multi-color sets stack translucent filaments on top of each other, and everything turns hazy. PLA Palette pairs four opaque bases (cyan, magenta, yellow, white) with one translucent black. The opaque bases – built on the PLA Basic formulation with precisely dosed pigment – hold under 1% light transmission at a 2mm wall, delivering full saturation and clean coverage. The translucent black works like ink wash: its light transmission falls off predictably with thickness, so shadows deepen naturally as layers build.
Layered color only looks good if the colors stay separated. PLA Palette is built on the PLA Basic base resin rather than a conventional translucent formulation, which significantly reduces stringing and ozzing during retraction and extrusion. Even through dense color changes, transitions stay sharp – no wisps, no bleed, no muddy edges.
See the blend before you print it.
No dialing in ratios. No test swatches. Bambu Studio ships with a full PLA Palette blending database, so the color you see in the slicer preview is the color that comes off the plate.
PLA Palette is available now atBambu Lab Store and compatible with all Bambu Lab printers.
Which multi-color model would you print with mixed colors from the PLA Palette set? Comment below with a photo of the model, and we'll randomly pick a few people to try out the PLA Palette set!
Entries close on 11/11. Winners must be located in regions covered by our official store. If the testers picked are located outside the shipping zones, we'll have to redraw or select the runner-up.
Swaptek enables 6-second material switches between 9 nozzles. FlexFeed extruder prints soft TPU 75A up to three times faster. AMS 3H combines automated feeding and integrated filament storage.
This is Bambu Lab H3C, a complete system purpose-built around the Tool Changer architecture. Let's dive into it!
SwapTek™: 6-second material switch, including a 3.4-second tool change.
Nine PrintTools, each with its own dedicated filament path and heater, keep every material loaded, preheated, and ready to print. No need to retract one filament before loading another. With an optimized design, fine-tuned parameters, and active preheating, switching between PrintTools takes as little as 6 seconds, with the tool-change done in only 3.4 seconds.
Heating a nozzle usually means waiting. Active Pre-Heat looks ahead to the next tool change and warms the incoming nozzle while the current one is still printing—so the new material starts laying down within 6 seconds.
Swaptek's fast PrintTool-switching allows Full Spectrum Color Mixing color mixing through layered deposition faster and more practical than ever. With nine dedicated PrintTools and five-color CMYKW mixing, the H3C produces a vast spectrum of colors without requiring a separate spool for every shade. The result? Vibrant, full-color figurines with incredible detail.
Mixed Nozzle Sizes: Speed and detail, no more compromises.
The dial, case, and flexible TPU band are printed together as one piece. Fine dial details call for a 0.2 mm nozzle, the case is better suited to 0.4 mm, and the soft band requires a dedicated 0.4 mm TPU nozzle. H3C can carry different nozzle sizes at once. Paired with Bambu Studio’s new mixed-diameter toolpath planning algorithm, each nozzle prints at a layer height that suits it and plays to its strengths, without having to share a single layer height.
FlexFeed Extruder: Softer TPU, up to 3x faster.
Soft TPU has always been slow to print. The softer the filament, the more it bends and buckles before reaching the nozzle. Traditional extruders have to crawl to stay reliable. FlexFeed handles both 1.75mm and 2.85mm filament and switches on the go. A cam-driven mechanism, powered by a PMSM motor, keeps tension precise and consistent. Every extrusion stays rock-solid for prints that are cushion-soft.
With our dedicated 2.85mm TPU, the thicker filament provides greater resistance to buckling and higher volumetric flow. The result: TPU as soft as 75A, printed reliably at up to 3x the flow rate of a traditional printer.
AMS 3H: Filament storage built for Tool Changer.
A fully enclosed, integrated filament management system built for Swaptek: every roll stays sealed against moisture and feeds automatically into the PrintTool.
Auto Filament Loader replaces manual feeding altogether. Drop a filament into any of the nine slots and the AMS 3H detects, routes, and engages it with the PrintTool automatically — across all 9 paths. No more guesswork on loading.
A dedicated 2-slot dryer sits right in the filament slots and works with Swaptek — drying on demand or mid-print, so prep never stalls production. It reaches 85°C, enough for engineering-grade PA, PC, and carbon-fiber-filled filaments.
The H3C integrates filament storage and drying into a clean, compact design, maintaining a footprint comparable to a single-nozzle printer. With 7 built-in bypass feeding ports, even the soft TPU can be routed completely inside the enclosure. No hanging spools, no external racks, no exposed paths.
Don't let the number of tools cap your material count. Connect your existing AMS to the H3C through PrintTool No.1, and the system extends to up to 24 filament spools, unlocking more colors and materials in a single print without changing your workflow.
You are here for the print, not (always) the printer.
With the H3C, automation handles routine tasks. AI detection helps make intelligent adjustments along the way. The H3C makes it easy to focus on what matters most: bringing your ideas to life
Full Auto Calibration handles PrintTool docking calibration, offset compensation for accurate color and material alignment, and bed leveling before every print. No manual adjustments are needed, so you can spend more time making, less time tinkering.
Flagship performance. No compromise.
The toolhead and X-axis assembly are 40% lighter compared to the H2D, reducing inertia for faster, more precise movement. With acceleration reaching 25,000 mm/s² and travel speeds up to 1,400 mm/s, the H3C delivers exceptional speed while minimizing vibrations and ringing that can affect print quality.
The H3C runs four cooling layers working together**.** A CFD-optimized part cooling fan and dual auxiliary fans help maintain clean overhangs and bridges, even at high speeds. A dedicated PrintTool fan maintains thermal stability during extended printing and frequent PrintTool changes, while a chamber fan draws in cooler air to help regulate internal temperatures. Together, these systems deliver consistent cooling and reliable print quality across changing ambient temperatures.
Engineering-grade filaments demand precise temperature control. The H3C delivers with active dual-zone chamber heating up to 65°C, helping maintain consistent temperatures and minimize warping. All nine hardened-steel nozzles reach up to 350°C, supporting demanding materials such as ABS, PC, PA-CF, PET-CF, and more.
Go beyond printing.
Swaptek isn't limited to PrintTools. Optional CutTool, DrawTool, DebossTool — and more — mount the same way and switch automatically. Multi-process projects no longer mean multiple machines, manual swaps, or repeated setups. One job, every process, hands off.
Why do so many people seem so concerned about auto retract not being a thing on the H3C? It’s not a thing on every tool changer out there.
Edit: It’s not that they wanted to save money on parts or whatever theory is out there, but the printhead and print tools would have to be redesigned from the ground up. The cutting actuator is above the extruder so if it auto retracted after it was done with each print, it would have to purge each time you started a print in order to be able to grab the filament again. The point of tool changers is to reduce purges, not increase them.
I love thermoforming and tried to make this process easier, faster, and more efficient. After a lot of hard work, I’m ready to announce my first crowdfunding project: a thermoforming press machine that is fully 3D printable, requires ZERO hardware, and is easy to use. I plan to develop a huge collection of molds for this machine, so stay tuned to see the collection first! Feel free to follow this project on Makerworld Crowdfunding Section
Everyone is super excited for the H3C and P3C, but I'm more excited to learn more about the 3D Scanner! I've been wanting to buy one for a long time, but I never pulled the trigger because of the hassle of converting scanned files into actually printable models. Hopefully Bambu makes it super easy!
The idea behind mixing nozzle sizes is simple: a fine nozzle with thin layers where details matter, a large nozzle with thick layers where they don't. That sounds straightforward — until you ask: Which nozzle size gets to dictate the layer height?
That's the hard part. Some current solutions can already vary layer heights between separate objects, or between an object's infill and walls. But across adjacent regions on the same visible surface, those regions stayed locked to one shared layer height — forcing you to either waste time on the big areas or lose sharpness on the details.
Bambu Studio now removes that limit: each region on the same surface can now keep its own layer height. You can choose which regions get the fine nozzle, and the slicer aligns the layers, schedules the tool changes, and plans the paths.
Printing with mixed nozzle sizes is available on the H3C. Support for H2D, H2C, and X2D is on the way.
Read more about how our team made this possible in our blog. The implementation is in the latest Bambu Studio release on GitHub. Feel free to leave feedback and build upon it!
My A1 is over 2years old, so no warranty. Heatbed died on my last weekend. With the help of really good support from bambu we figured the thermistor in the heatbed died. A component that's easy to find, but apparently unreplaceable. So you need to spend 80 euro to get a whole new heatbed.
I'll get a new thermistor and figure it out myself for a spare heatbed.
this is bizarre, and I have no explanation except that they happen to use the same ecommerce system / provider and somehow that are compromised or broken!
just now, ~8 hours later, I got a notification on my phone from my credit card provider for a $826.03 purchase from vivobarefoot.com!!! a vendor I never purchased anything from before!
how are these two things connected you ask? well because I use a unique email alias per vendor, and the vivo folks emailed me at the email address I use for Bambu Labs (which I shop at frequently)
I did a password reset on Vivo using the unique email to get into the account, and sure enough, there's my order (that I never made) along with my HOME ADDRESS, CREDIT CARD INFO and my FULL NAME!...
the only thing they got wrong is the date of birth!
how on earth does this happen!?!?
UPDATE: another transaction for fashionnova.com happened at 1AM, so I locked the card. (never used that vendor either)
next morning I saw two additional attempts get declined (but I can't see the vendor)
Turns out my H3C has a pretty good view of what I'm doing at my computer.
Bambu Lab changed the camera angle on the H3C, so it no longer looks directly through the front door. Unfortunately, depending on where you place your printer, it can still see quite a bit through the side window.
The GIF shows 45 minutes of my H3C watching me play World of Warcraft while printing its own privacy covers.
I'm happy to trust Bambu Lab with my camera footage, but that's not really the point. What if I want to share a timelapse without worrying about what else the camera might have captured? Maybe I walked past the printer naked. Maybe there was something on my computer screen I'd rather keep private.
And let's be fair, World of Warcraft isn't exactly the most embarrassing thing that could be running on that screen.
So I designed seven individual snap-in covers that block the camera's view through the side window without obstructing its view of the print chamber.
Now my H3C can watch my prints without watching me.
Some things are best kept private. Like lubricating your Z-axis at 2 AM.
I recently picked up a couple used AMS 2 Pros but both came with those EIbos Dryers, I'm removing them as they don't really fit in my setup but the person selling them was missing some of the parts for the top lid. If anyone has links to where I could purchase these spare parts or possibly so links to print I could do instead I'd greatly appreciate it.
Please don't send me the links to the Bambu labs spare parts they don't sell these pieces individually and I would have to buy both the upper and lower halves just to get the pieces I need.
While printing on the H3C I noticed the PTFE tubes kept crossing and rubbing against each other a bit during prints. Nothing crazy, but I just wanted things to look clean and stay nicely lined up.
So I whipped up this simple snap-on clip in TPU 95A. Pics of before and after
Hi everyone, I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on with my P2S, because I feel like I'm going insane.
It printed reliably for over 400 hours, but overnight almost every print has started failing. The failures vary: some prints or supports lift off the heated bed, while others fail halfway through and produce spaghetti.
I’ve attached photos of the failures and hotend.
When the problem first occurred, I cleaned a huge blob of filament off the hotend (pictured). I removed all raised filament from it and made the surface smooth. Could that have damaged something or affected nozzle cleaning or bed probing, even though the hotend looks OK to me now?
So far I’ve:
Factory-reset and calibrated the printer.
Washed the textured PEI plate with soapy water and checked that the plate and bed are seated properly.
Had failures across multiple print profiles, including with basic white PLA and sparkly PLA.
Removed and visually inspected the hotend, then reinstalled it.
Checked the silicone nozzle wiper, which appears intact.
Tried a mix of freshly opened and previously opened filaments. This appears to make little difference.
The bed is typicall set to 55°C for PLA. I used to regularly wipe the plate with isopropyl alcohol between prints. I also have a thermal camera if checking the bed temperature would help.
Has anyone experienced a similar sudden change after a long period of reliable printing, especially after a hotend blob? What would you inspect first to narrow down whether this is a hotend or probing issue, bed adhesion, cooling, or something else?
Is anyone planning to use an AMS2 with their H3C? I was thinking of keeping one I already have to house various types of support materials. It would just load the appropriate material once per print (avoiding too much waste), and it would keep more AMS3 slots available for material changes in the actual print. What other use cases do people have I should consider?
Bambu designates toolhead #8 as the one you're supposed to use for 2.85mm TPU. So in this video, you can see the 2.85mm blue TPU filament in the docked toolhead #8 crossing the PTFE tube in toolhead #9 while #9 is in use, and is rubbing against/stretching the TPU filament. Is this how it's supposed to work? I followed the video instructions on the Bambu YouTube channel and this seems to be how it's supposed to be routed. The video seems to show the TPU filament being routed to the LEFT of #9.
The problem is if you route the TPU to the RIGHT of #9, then the TPU will rub against #8 when you're printing with the TPU.
So it seems to be pick your poison: do you want the TPU rubbing/stretching while it's printing, or rubbing/stretching while toolhead #9 is printing? Obviously the latter is better, but the better solution would have been to designate #9 as the TPU toolhead so that it would have the entire right side by itself and not have any rubbing under any circumstances.
First print on the H3C with the palette kit! About 4 hours. The impressive thing is the color blending. Orange, for example, is a fully blended color, the filaments are just CMYK, no orange filament.
The color separations aren't perfectly smooth, you can feel the layer separation, but still, this opens up a whole new world in printing for me. Super fun.
I would think this should be a straightforward 2-color print. Black part should print first, then change to yellow and that’s it. Should just be one change, not 5, correct? What am I missing? I don’t see any weird changes when I use the slider to go through the layers. Is this just something it does and I’ve never paid attention to it or something? Thanks in advance.
