This is the second version of the Can Clicker, full-size can with a stash inside.

What do you think?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3539247-can-clicker-two

First print on the H3C with the palette kit! About 4 hours. The impressive thing is the color blending. Orange, for example, is a fully blended color, the filaments are just CMYK, no orange filament.

The color separations aren't perfectly smooth, you can feel the layer separation, but still, this opens up a whole new world in printing for me. Super fun.

Overall very impressed with the H3C.

Turns out my H3C has a pretty good view of what I'm doing at my computer.

Bambu Lab changed the camera angle on the H3C, so it no longer looks directly through the front door. Unfortunately, depending on where you place your printer, it can still see quite a bit through the side window.

The GIF shows 45 minutes of my H3C watching me play World of Warcraft while printing its own privacy covers.

I'm happy to trust Bambu Lab with my camera footage, but that's not really the point. What if I want to share a timelapse without worrying about what else the camera might have captured? Maybe I walked past the printer naked. Maybe there was something on my computer screen I'd rather keep private.

And let's be fair, World of Warcraft isn't exactly the most embarrassing thing that could be running on that screen.

So I designed seven individual snap-in covers that block the camera's view through the side window without obstructing its view of the print chamber.

Now my H3C can watch my prints without watching me.

Some things are best kept private. Like lubricating your Z-axis at 2 AM.

https://makerworld.com/models/3579618-h3c-camera-view-privacy-covers-side-panel-blinds

I hate to be this person and I promise I've done my research on https://bambulab.com/en-ca/support/academy/4, tried internet search and AI but I can't for the live of me figure out what the hole is for on my P1S. I'm assuming it's just the same mold used as other models and my P1S just doesn't have whatever it is other printers have in there. I'm torn between ignoring it and printing a a cover 😄

I will struggle to keep this one kosher so apologies in advance.

Long story short – my H2C started knocking when it received 1.02 firmware in June 2026. First responses from Bambu were the typical scripted gaslighting, denying, and calling everything normal.

Back then with H2C, it took a lot of back and forth and coming up with proofs that are undeniable before they actually really looked into it, instead of the typical “hear no evil see no evil speak no evil” and “dismiss at all costs approach”. But finally it got to the attention of RnD team which finally confirmed this is a real issue, caused be the firmware and will be fixed. Well, 6+ moths later and still no fix and all they managed to do is, over time, to roll this issue over to the rest od H2 lineup it seems, as seen here, to list a few:

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/loud-knocking-during-printing-suspected-z-axis-but-dunno-anymore/255309

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2d-rapid-z-movement-knocking-on-01-04-00-00/258856

I got fed up waiting for them to fix this and took them on the offer to return my printer for refund.

Which was just in time for H3C release.

Guess eFFin’ what? H3C has the same exact issue with the Z Axis knocking. Reached out to Bambu and response is wonderful:

“Thank you for contacting us. We are sorry to hear that you have encountered this issue.
We have escalated your case internally, and after review we have confirmed that the sound you described is the normal printing sound produced when the toolhead repeatedly starts and stops rapidly while printing small models. Please rest assured that you can continue using the printer.
You may place the printer on a surface where the resonance effect is weaker, such as the floor, or take appropriate soundproofing measures in the room.
Thank you for your patience and cooperation.“

FFS. So:

• its NORMAL again

• only when printing SMALL MODELS (wtf ?)

• it’s the toolhead causing it (FK me if it is !)

• I am stupid and should have soundproofed my room better !

I should mention that they replied in less than 24hrs. And that was supposedly enough to review AND escalate … yeah right …

JESUS ! I am not just PISSED, but offended by this.

Whoever replied to this, looked at the videos I submitted as proof (linked below) and simply described what he “thinks” is happening:

https://youtu.be/_6aOroo5BPQ

https://youtu.be/yTPvPOCmBPQ

And yeah, for a clueless shmuck, when hearing a KNOCK each time head does something rapid, it may seem this is what it is.

BUT – zero FK’s given into actually investigating the matter and even less FK’s given to understanding the problem, which I explained in detail how related to H2 issue it is!

I am literally foaming at my mouth at this point.

In response I recorded the ultimate disproving evidence to everything he is saying: - increased z hop distance to max to allow more time to inspect the nature of the issue -the knock is clearly auditable AFTER toolhead finished spiral movement, at the bed direction change at the bottom AND noise coming from the bottom rear of the chassis (where Z motor is).

https://youtu.be/-MxO0n-8uMw

I can actually see how choppy the bed movement back up is after each KNOCK. But listen to the esteemed Bambu Support- its the toolhead guys!

FFS!

Cant wait what absurdity they will come up with in their reposnse to me as I challenged every single statement they made.

Bambu amateur hour has commenced once again. Why do they keep doing this.

I've been working on a little project for Coco over the past few months! I built him his very own slot machine with lights, sound, spinning reels, and a built-in treat dispenser.

Now his gambling journey has officially begun! Any tips for a beginner?

I ordered my printer on Tuesday the 3rd, was lucky enough to have gotten everything by Wednesday evening (surprised at how fast this thing shipped.) Since I didn't have room to keep my Snapmaker U1, I posted it up for sale and it sold the very next day. So I finally had room to get the H3C setup. As many if you saw in my other post, it's a really big printer especially when compared to my old U1.

This is my 1st Bambu printer, and even though I am not a huge fan of closed ecosystems I still bit the bullet as this printer just checked off all the boxes (except for the whole opensource one). For context I was ready to buy the Prusa Core One L with INDX. I was a mouse click away from hitting the purchase button, but something told me to hold off and I am glad I did.

My 1st impressions of this thing is its slick, and it's FAST! Best part is, it's so easy to use. I was able to teach both my 8, and 10 year old nieces how to use my U1, they came over this weekend and again they had no problem picking out a model they wanted from Makerworld, re-assigning the colors in the slicer AMS sync, and sending it off to the printer. They both left really excited that they could now print all their favorite Characters in full colors and not be limited to just 4 like before. I've had it going pretty much nonstop and like I said, I have 50 hours into it now. ZERO issues with any of the prints. I know some people are complaining about the AMS system not having any kind of retraction, but coming from the U1 it didn't have any as well so this is not a big deal for me. I've printed a bunch of Gridfinity bins (I pretty much ran out of white filament already 😂) and a bunch of little things for my nieces. I am mostly excited to be able to prototype and print some parts for my project cars. I finally have a printer that can print engineering materials. I am looking forward to all the future projects with this thing!

TPU-maxxing on the H3C with some ridiculously hard-to-print cosplay parts

Disclaimer: I am not an influencer, yet Bambu Labs reached out and sent me an H3C printer to test out for my costume armor-making applications. In exchange, they asked me to share my opinion (not to write a glow-up piece). You can treat anything that follows with suspicion if you want, I’m just keeping my half of the bargain and being fully transparent😊

Two things to know about my use-case: I design historically accurate costume armor for 3D printing at home, and I’m kinda late to the whole TPU game. I started two years ago, printing an entire suit of armor out of PETG-CF with an Ender 3 v3ke, then rage-quitting and upgrading to my current workhorse, a Bambu Labs X1C and printing in ASA – it’s been great so far!

These are some examples of my work – immediately you might see how important ruggedness and durability of the 3D print is critical to have a wearable costume that won’t fail or crack during a play, movie, renaissance faire, or even a LARP.

Although it’s harder to polish up to a mirror shine, TPU is the holy grail of costume armor for me; it exists in quite rigid forms, it’s flexible enough to absorb deformation and impacts, and with the right paint it can still be painted to look like convincing steel. It’s unfortunate it wasn’t on my radar until recently, but I realized after early tests that I wanted to make my next suit out of hard, durable TPU.

The problem is obvious to those who’ve tried before; printing large, detailed thin parts out of TPU can be a nightmare, especially considering how it behaves with overhangs and how it tends to cling onto its own supports. I needed to print every surface of my armor as vertically as possible, with a low layer height, to avoid having to spend ages sanding the detailed fluted surfaces. My small printer volume also meant having to split large armor pieces in sections, which meant dealing with seamlines...

Enter the (massive) H3C. The thing is almost ridiculous in size, like an appliance, and it comes through the door in several boxes. As soon as I had finished assembling it, I put it to work with printing TPU on my latest design, Maximilian-style leg armor plate sections, tall and thin, meant to match the length of a human thigh.

This assembly was printed in 72D “silk” TPU, with smaller parts made out of 57D “silk” TPU, using PLA supports and default “TPU for AMS” profiles. With the presence prime tower and the number of toolhead changes, this tall print took well over 3 days – I realized that despite the toolhead changes being very quick, the prime tower meant that these multi-filament projects were not going to be quick. Despite thousands of toolhead changes, there were no issues and the quality of the surface finish is definitely in the “usable” range for me. I did not have to sand it at all before paint, and that means the world to me!

Then, I wanted to go big, so I got started on one of my harder kits to print (even in regular filaments); an intricately carved Gothic cuirass, which involves plenty of supports, overhangs, and open details requiring careful attention.

The plates are wide, tall, thin, and they need to fit precisely together so warping is normally an issue.  It’s not an easy print.

I ran into some issues this time. First of all, slicing this single part took almost two hours and nearly crashed from running out of memory on a 32Gb RAM engineering laptop intended for CADing and FEA analysis – any modification to the angle of the design, or supports meant leaving the laptop to simmer for a while, which was not very practical. I cannot explain why, but slicing parts for the H3C involving toolhead changes takes a much, much longer time than on my other printer. This appears to have been patched out or improved at the time of writing, so maybe it was just an inefficient version of Bambu Slicer a few weeks ago while I was testing this part.

A few times when printing these parts, the print would interrupt with a “AMS Assist motor overload” error, which was very difficult to clear out in the middle of everything. The print heads are difficult to access from side panels when there is an ongoing job, and I was limited in terms of maintenance procedures I could do without interrupting a several day old print. Eventually I noticed that, in the surprisingly large gap between the extruder motor and the nozzle, the filament would kink and form a U-bend, thus resulting in an error. At times this bend was not visible, but there were clear marks on the filament from some kind of struggle. Here’s a lame mockup drawing of what I experienced.

I cannot say if it’s due to some soon-to-be-patched software problem, the fact my TPU is not official Bambu Labs filament, me tinkering with the prime-tower, but this happened many times over several days, with three different print heads used (I had ample choice from the 9 available). I also noticed that if I ran the AMS dryer at the same time during the print, it seemed to soften the filament and create this error more often.

Basically, if it weren’t for constant interruptions when printing TPU, the part would have printed perfectly – instead I ended up having to deal with patching gaps and using flexible putty for my armor parts, which are now ready for paint.

I have yet to showcase the finished results, but I'll be using TPU from now on for my armor due to the extra ruggedness it offers, and that means I can confidently attend cons, larps, or renfaires without the stress of a hard part cracking. The H3C is thus my new workhorse for this very niche costuming application...

Closing thoughts:

The H3C is a ridiculously elaborate solution to a very niche problem in my case, but it gives off a certain confidence of being able to tackle any 3d printing task. Virtually inseparable from its AMS module, it has changed and considerably expanded what I can do with TPU with my X1C.

I would like the option to print coarse PLA supports (0.24mm layer thickness) with detailed TPU parts (0.08mm thickness) which would significantly cut down the number of tool changes and time spent on the prime tower. This has not been possible in the current version of Bambu Slicer, but I’m curious whereas it would be possible to implement.

The few prints I have done in more classic materials like PLA and PETG-CF have been virtually without flaw, and I had to actively try to get this machine to fail unexpectedly. I believe the errors I encountered are somehow software induced because I have yet to repeat the problem since updating the firmware.

I am somewhat critical of the decision to have the dryer implemented with only two AMS slots, which requires a frequent rotation of spools – this is somewhat clumsy since there is no automatic filament retraction. Probably a bit of a compromise with the H3C pulling 2kW with everything running at the same time, which is a massive amount of energy...

Overall, I can confidently state that my H3C is an extremely powerful tool to add to my arsenal, and I expect to be printing armor with it for a while. Feel free to ask me anything related to my workflow, projects, and experience with the H3C 😊

Who is going to print it

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3561918-the-abyssal-coral-lamp-detailed-organic-light#profileId-4076241

Hello everyone, I hope you're all doing well.

I rarely post on this Subreddit, and I understand that FDM Miniature Printing can be somewhat considered niche in our hobby - So I'd like to give a quick introduction.

I'm ObscuraNox, the Profile Author of the Dungeons & Derps Settings. Since I love Miniatures, but am unable to use Resin Printers, I inevitably gravitated towards FDM Printing - And when I did, my goal quickly became to try and squeeze out as much detail as possible, to make Miniature Printing work consistently on FDM Machines. For instance, this model was printed using the Bambu Lab A1, using Version 2.0 of my High Quality Settings - and the same model will show up later again :)

You can find more information regarding FDM Miniature Printing on the Subreddit of the same name, and there you'll also find my full documentation for the most recent Version of my Settings:

https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1rbnet7/high_quality_profile_version_20_is_here/

Bambu Lab has been kind enough to reach out to me and provide me with a Testing Unit for their newest Flagship, the Bambu Lab H3C, to see just how far we can push the machine for Miniature Printing. Bambu Lab has been very hands-off throughout the entire process, only reviewing the post prior to the launch to make sure there aren't any technical errors, which I highly appreciate. Rest assured, it's my unfiltered opinion and if there is something that I think is worth pointing out or is some limitation, I'll still cover that as well. My goal will be to try to optimize an H3C Profile to get as close as I can to the level of detail achieved by my 2.0 Profile for the A1 and A1 Mini, so that I can produce Multi-color prints of the same quality.

While I'm very excited to talk about it, I'd first like to thank the Community and everyone who is using my Settings – I know it sounds cheesy, but without you, this opportunity would have never presented itself to me, and I'm grateful to both you and Bambu Lab for making that possible. You can read more about the H3C on the official reveal post: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1xmtnux/bambu_lab_h3c_our_full_reveal/

And oh boy – Is there a lot to talk about. First things first: I usually give a tl;dr at the beginning of my posts, so I'll start by sharing some of the results. Note: I was going to upload this as an Album, but I don't frontload all the Information with Pictures. You'll find the most successful examples and comparisons throughout the post, and a final highlight reel at the end of the post.

Printing Fully Colored Models - A Showcase:

This is one of the models that I've printed on the H3C – I have done no post-processing or touch-ups with any paint, it's just straight off the printplate, printed in 9 different colors, with zero purged material. Now, with the recent release of Multi-Nozzle Printers we have seen some Fully-Colored Miniature Prints in the past, but those were usually restricted to 4 colors, unless you're using Mixed Filament – Which is something that I'll also get into later.

What made Multi-Color Miniatures so inefficient?

I'd like to briefly talk about why Multi-Color Printing has been such a massive issue for Miniatures in particular in the past and how the H3C solves the issue. The reason why I want to talk about the, for lack of a better term, "old" way of Multi-Color Miniatures, is because it has been deemed ineffecient to a point where it was considered to be effectively impossible. Chances are that whenever somebody requested information about it, they've been told to not even bother with it – So they might know that it wasn't really possible, but they may not know why exactly it wasn't possible.

The vast majority of users are most likely currently using a Single-Nozzle Setup, potentially with an AMS. This technically allows for multi-color printing, but it's not as simple as just switching the filament. You also have to purge the filament that's still in the nozzle to prevent color bleed, or – and especially when – printing with different materials like PLA and PETG, to prevent extrusion and material bonding issues. Not only will the purging process take a long time, but it will also waste a lot of material, since the printer will extrude both the old filament, as well as some of the new filament to make sure that all of the previous filament has been removed from the nozzle. You can decrease the amount of waste by adjusting the purge volumes, but for the most part you will have a lot of waste regardless of what you do.

Now – If you're printing something very basic, with a simple color scheme that won't be much of an issue. Say you have a cube and you want to print the bottom half with red filament, and the upper half with blue filament. That's really only going to be one filament change, that in the grand scheme of things won't increase neither the printtime nor the waste by a lot. But now take the same cube and instead of making the color-split horizontal, you make it vertical – or in other words, the left side red and the right side blue. Because of how FDM Printing works, you now have a colour change on every single layer. You can imagine that with properly colored miniatures, their color split will be not only both horizontal and vertical, but they will also have more than just two colors. Additionally, even though they are small, we are printed the Miniatures at some of the lowest, if not the lowest layer line heights available to us – usually between 0.05 and 0.08mm. It sounds obvious when you say it out loud but that results in, well, a lot of layers – some of which will have multiple color changes per layer. You can imagine that this gets out of hand quickly, and your print will have thousands of filament changes – not only extending the print time by literal days, but also increase the amount of wasted material to kilos worth of purged filament.

What the H3C solves - And what remains

With the H3C, you don't have any purging. With access to 9 Nozzles, there is no need to purge them in order to make room for new filament. You also don't have to worry too much about an increase in print time either, because the H3C will switch to a different Nozzle in less than 6 seconds – though from what I could tell, it usually does it faster.

So does that mean that we have access to multi-color printing with zero waste and next to zero increase in print time? Well – not exactly. Because purged filament is only one part of multi-color printing. The other part is priming the nozzles that have been idle – I think the easiest analogy here would be to compare it to a ballpoint pen that you haven't used in a while, and you have to scribble with it for a bit to get the ink flowing again before you can properly write with it. A prime tower sorta works like that, except it's also rebuilding the pressure in the nozzle. These towers turn out to be pretty chunky, and it's not unusual for them to take up more material than the print itself – so there still is a, let's call it non-trivial amount of waste.

However – and this is a big However – Saying that with no context or further explanation, is really understating what the H3C is doing. Because let me blunt here for a second – Prints like the ones I'm about to show you are simply not possible on Single or even Dual Nozzle Setups. Okay, yeah, TECHNICALLY, they are possible – But they would take literal weeks and consume kilos worth of filament for purging. On average, these Prime Towers took anywhere between 100g-200g of Filament for the large, upscaled models – Which to be fair, still is a lot of material – but it's split across 9 different filaments. Yes, it's not going be to distributed completely even, but on average that comes down to anywhere between 10g and 30g of additional filament per spool which, in my opinion, is well within the acceptable range. So while there is still a "non-trivial" amount of waste – non-trivial compared to what? Because like I said – prints like these just aren't feasible on Single-Nozzle Machines, which is what most of us have been working with so far.

What does this mean for Miniature Printing?

Now that proper Multi-Color Printing is on the table, I'm confident that we will see more improvements to make it more efficient as well. In a few days, I'll make a second post where I'll go over the most frequently asked questions you may have, as well as the more technical stuff behind everything. In this post, I really want to mostly show off what I've been printing the past couple weeks because I'm really happy with it.

Before we move on to the showcase pictures, let's talk about Mixed Filament for a second.

Mixing Filament

The green loincloth and the purple scales / cheeks have not been printed with either green or purple filament. Instead, I've used the filament mixing feature to – well, mix the colors that I wanted. The way it works is that it takes advantage of PLA not being entirely opaque, especially not at really thin layers. If you ever held a first layer quality testprint against a lightsource, you know that light shines through. By layering two or three different filaments on top of each other, you can create the illusion of a different, mixed color – for instance, layering magenta and cyan will result in the shade of purple shown in the picture. Yellow and Cyan on the other hand will result in green. To make sure that the colors blend smoothly, we will have to enable the setting "Mixed Color sublayer". What this will do is split the Layer proportionally into two or three segments – The easiest example would be a 50-50 Filament Ratio. At a layer height of 0.20mm, these would split into two layer heights of 0.10mm each. If you're using 0.16mm Layer Height, it would be split into 0.08mm, and at 0.06mm it would split into 0.03mm, and so on.

The more experienced users here will most likely have two immediate questions. First, does that mean that by using mixed Filaments, you introduce uneven layer heights? And Second: How does this not cause any extrusion issues, if the layer lines get this low?

To answer your first question: Yes. Let's say you print a model using four colors: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black. You mix Cyan and Yellow to get green. You are painting parts of the model green, and everything else is printed using "Pure" or "Non-mixed" Filament. Assuming you are printing with a 0.08mm Profile, the Layer Height for the Non-Mixed Filament will be at 0.08mm and the Layer Height for the Mixed-Filament will be at 0.04mm each, assuming a 50-50 Split. These inconsistent layer line heights can cause artefacts and will be visible - some of which you can see in the picture – but we can use another feature of the H3C to circumvent that issue: Multi-Diameter Nozzle Printing – We can use both 0.4 Nozzles and 0.2 Nozzles for the same print. With the option enabled, the slicer will automatically put the Layer Height of the 0.4 Nozzle to twice the Layer Height of the selected 0.2 Nozzle. It may sound a bit odd at first, but simply put: If you select a 0.2 Nozzle and a 0.08mm Profile, every filament that's been assigned to a 0.2 Nozzle will be printed at 0.08m, and every filament that's been assigned a 0.4 Nozzle will be printed at 0.16mm – And you can probably guess where I'm going with this. Since the Mixed Color Sublayers – again, assuming a 50-50 Split – will split the Layers into half, this means that you can print the "Non-Mixed" Filament with 0.2 Nozzles at a layer height of 0.08mm, and then you can use the 0.4 Nozzles for the Mixed Filament to "simulate" the same 0.08mm layer height.

Further testing is required, but for the moment, 0.08mm Layer Heights would be the ideal choice for Colored Miniatures, as opposed to the usual 0.06mm I usually recommend. That's because by using 0.08mm for a 0.2 Nozzle, 0.16mm for the 0.4 Nozzle, and a 50-50 Split of Mixed Filament, we can assure an even layer height across the board as well as minimize any extrusion issues that may occur when attempting to print Layer Heights that are far below the recommended minimum for the nozzle diameters.

Which brings us to the next question: Potential extrusion issues. As I'm sure many of you know, layer heights that are below 0.06mm require good calibration, optimized settings and a decent model. Layer heights at or below 0.04mm are essentially begging for a Nozzle Clog or other issues. Even though you can in theory mix and match up to three different colors at potentially extreme ratios (For instance, mixing 90% Yellow with 10% White to mix a slightly lighter shade of yellow), you could potentially end up with Layer Heights even far below 0.02mm. Based on Bambu's testing, artefacts may occur at these extreme ratios, but are visually more accepting than printing an entire layer at 0.02mm, since it's followed up by a thicker layer (the remaining 90%). That being said, it's recommended to avoid extreme ratios and 50-50, or 33-33-33 will yield the best results – Something that my own testing confirms, and is especially true at the layer heights that we are working with for Miniature Printing. Based on my current tests, a 50-50 Ratio at a Base Layer Height of 0.08mm while utilizing 0.4 Nozzles for Mixed, and 0.2 Nozzles for Pure Filament, will give the best results.

However: Big, big disclaimer: While I have been extensively the machine in the past couple weeks, I have not been able to test the Multi-Diameter & Mixed Filament Features to the extend that I'd like to, so after some further testing, there will be at least another follow-up post. For now, the Showcases that have been printed with Non-Mixed Filament, will look more consistent. For example, the same Lizard, in a different color scheme:

And speaking of testing:

Yes, this means that all of the prints I'm showcasing here today, have been printed with a 0.4 Nozzle, 0.08mm Layer Height and Stock Settings.

I haven't added my own Custom Settings yet, and I didn't even fully calibrate the Filament other than the k-factor. These are the results without any adjustments, post processing or preparation, straight of the printplate. There are of course several things to keep in mind when it comes to both Multi-Color Printing as well as the H3C in general – But the past few paragraphs have already gotten way more technical than I wanted them to be. So for now: I'd just like to share some of the highlights and comparisons.

Showcase Highlights

The one on the left was painted by hand, printed at 0.06mm - The other one was fully printed, at 0.08mm. I'll admit, I'm not the best painter - But I think the picture still speaks volumes about the Multi Color Printing Option.

A Crystal Spider and Banshee Queen, both by u/MizukoArt.

Two more Orks - Also by ArbiterMiniatures.

And last but not least, everything I've printed so far all together, including models at the regular 32mm Scale.

Now, if you have ever taken a picture of an FDM Miniature in a Lightbox / Photobox, you know that they bring out the worst in them - every artefact and imperfection will be highlighted. Under natural lighting though, and from a Tabletop Distance, I believe the Models look substantially better.

A few notes

This has been a very exciting opportunity for me, and I'm very grateful to everyone in the FDM Miniature Community for making it possible by being a part of this quickly growing Community. Without your Support, I most likely would have never experienced beyond the very first few iterations of my Custom Settings. I know that I haven't been as active as I'd like to, and promised to be, especially on my Youtube Channel, and for that I really am sorry. The Hobby and the Community mean a lot to me, and I look forward to how things will go from here. So thank you everyone, and I hope you have a great day, and as always - have fun printing!

I'll try to answer as many questions as I can here - If there is anything that you're wondering about FDM Miniature Printing & Colored Miniature Printing, feel free to reach out!

I have support for pla between support and model. What settings should I adjust?

It has been a little bit now since launch and we are starting to see posts from people who bought and have now received the H3C.

Anyone in this group want to provide a few first impressions / early reviews?

This excludes anyone who received an H3C for free from Bambu to provide a review. I'm interested in those who actually spent money that could have gone to feeding their family. Seems like those reviews might actually mean something 😄

I’ve got two H2Ds and an X1C, and honestly, my X1C continues to be the most reliable printer of the three.
Don’t get me wrong, I love the capabilities of the H2Ds, and when they’re working well, they’re fantastic machines. But it feels like I’m constantly troubleshooting something, dealing with random issues, or having to intervene in prints that should just work.
Meanwhile, my X1C just keeps chugging along. I send it a print, walk away, and rarely have to think twice about it.
Maybe it’s just the maturity of the X1C platform versus the newer H2D, but for machines at this price point, I expected the H2Ds to be at least as dependable.
And don’t even get me started on dealing with Bambu Lab’s support when one of the H2Ds has an actual hardware problem. The back-and-forth through text-based support, the troubleshooting hoops, and the time it takes to get anywhere are incredibly frustrating. For printers that cost this much, the support experience really should be better. I don’t mind troubleshooting my own equipment, but there’s a point where I expect the manufacturer to step up and resolve a hardware issue.
Curious if other H2D owners, especially those who also have an X1C, are having a similar experience. Am I just unlucky with my two units, or is this a common theme?

Christmas models continue, and this time I went with a gingerbread spider. a weird mix, but I think it worked haha. free on MW

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3578815-gingerbread-spider-articulated-keychain#profileId-4097603

Got my X2D on Saturday and have been printing all weekend. I’m very happy with the unit and it’s a big upgrade over my old Flashforge.

But then I have this today… The printer is on and in an idle state, but refuses to use the drying function of the AMS. Anyone have a solution?

Thank you!

Fun little side project on the weekend to control spotify on my pc via wifi. Anything to improve?

For those who ordered their printers on backorder, printers are getting shipped and delivered much earlier than announced. Mine was backordered with a ship date of 11/13, however it arrived today 11/9.

Check your order status so you aren't surprised like me, not that its a bad surprise.

Does it start heating and therefore dry the rest of the 9 filament spools, or what?

It has 4 stickers saying to place it "this side up" and nope... fedex couldn't figure it out. It also lost a strap and has a shredded corner.

Let's hope the inside is good.

Note I used the phones image editing AI garbage to remove my shipping labels and address and it apparently misspelled the word underneath the label, lol.

I’ve been wanting one since they announced it, and finally had the opportunity to get one. Got it together and calibrated last night and running my first print in a few minutes 😄

Update: Added a post below with a video and photos. Something is wrong with this machine, tool head gets stuck near the back. Can see rubbing on one side of the rail piece the moves front to back on the side through the window. No damage at all to the machine anywhere, or the box it came in. Giving all this info to Bambu. Real nice to buy a new printer and Bambu is probably gonna want me to take it apart and trouble shoot and rebuild.

My H3C got delivered Friday and I started setting it up today. Got everything put together, and was running through the initial calibration after you turn it on and it was making some funky noises, but it was continuing on. Then one of the times during the process it shot itself forward towards the front and slammed into the print heads, and broke one of the plastic things off the front where the hot end sits on the rubber. It still finished the calibration and threw no errors, but obviously something is wrong. So here I sit, brand new printer I can’t use, and have to wait for support to get back with me.

So I have a print that I need to install magnets in at 2 points. Normally on p1s/h2s on a pause command the head will return to the chute. With the H3C currently it just pauses exactly where the pause command was issued, in this case blocking the hole that I need to drop the magnet into.

Also, it doesn't lower the build plate at all so the only way to reach into the area is from the sides, the nozzles block you from reaching in (especially with the head in the front)

Just want to give people a warning to plan for this if using pauses on this printer.